Cornwall > Lower Sharpnose Point >
 
Pacemaker*** E5 6a

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Fanny Calder >>
[Andy and Fi; Pacemaker, E5 6a; Lower Sharpnose, 3 kb]30m. An outstanding wall-climb that rates as one of the best pitches in the West Country. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks. Photo on page 106. 26m. Climb the diagonal cracks until it is possible to move up the wall to another left-trending crack. Follow the crack left until below a thin crack-line that heads up back right. Climb the thin cracks, peg, to a break and another peg before finishing steeply leftwards along the break. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pat Littlejohn 15.5.86 15/May/1986

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50.

Photo: Andy and Fi; Pacemaker, E5 6a; Lower Sharpnose © duncan
View all 15 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 75 logbooks, and on 35 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

only just! got very tired having just lead Fay and others with Il Duce day before. shoes got wet in the other bay by the tide! funny
jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/13 with neil mcadie

Johnny Baker - AltLd - 20/Sep/13 with Sam Richards

First E5
climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Mike Watson

Awesome route, this has been on my to do list for years. If you have a decent level of fitness this feels like a path for E5 - it's well protected and there isn't much 6a.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13

Perfect trad above a rapidly advancing spring high. Topped out.
peteharrison06 - Lead O/S - Aug/13

Brilliant climbing, soft.
colesy - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Ged Desforges

1st e5. Chuffed. Was a close one at the top!
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Caroline

Mike W - Lead β - 04/Jun/12 with bigrob

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

Justin T - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Cherry

Led in the 1990s - just managed to make a desparate slap at the top with absolutely nothing left and Rich Mayfield (presumably eyeing my distant gear) leaning over the edge shouting "Grab my hand!". Glad I didn't - knowing Rich he would probably have snatched it away and thumbed his nose giggling as I plummeted seawards.
Brian H - Lead O/S - 2012 with Paul Newman

Hidden - 2012

Rain stopped play half way up!!
Adam Booth - 2nd - 16/Sep/11 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/11

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with michael porter

JRae - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with M Watson

alaan - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Will

john nightingale - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11 with fran santos

Fran S8 - 2nd - 08/Aug/11 with john nightingale

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Dad

Managed to avoid the pump and felt pretty easy for e5 - good gear and good holds all the way. Much easier than Wraith!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

Adam Lincoln - Lead β - 09/Jul/11 with Keith Sharples, Kev Avery

One rest/fall an inch from the top (after the last peg). So close (so pumped!)! Class route, felt hard after the rest of the jug fests here.
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/11

Amazing.
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Ed Heslam

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/May/11

stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 06/May/11 with Nathan Lawrence

Pumpy!
david morse - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Al blackshaw

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10

feilx - Lead RP - 28/Aug/10 with Heather

Disappointed to not get this one clean, just climbed too slowly and got rather pumped above the first peg. Much more sustained than Fay. Next time! Excellent gear all the way just climb quickly!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 14/Aug/10 with Ben, Emily

Soft E5 and soft 6a imo. Superb cimbing and a wicked pulse-raising finish. On mikes gear.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 26/Jul/10 with Mikey G

C'est magnifique! Sustained but quite relaxed most of the time, with adequate gear (but not in abundance). Crux section is superb from clipping the peg to the final break!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with alex mason

sustained 5c? cool route!
mgeek - Lead β - 11/Jul/10 with ally swinton, Tony Stone

Onsight attempt, fell off totally pumped above the top peg, about 2 foot from the top. So boxed it then took me the best part of 10 minutes to finish the route!
Justin T - Lead dog - 12/Jun/10 with Cherry

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Toby Dunn - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/May/08

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with KM

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

feilx - Lead dog - 14/Jul/07 with Heather

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2007 with Wendy Sampson

Hidden - 2007

Ideally would've backed up the 2 pegs at the top but they looked in good nick and was a bit too burnt from fay to hang around. first e5
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/06 with Alex Mason

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/06

Rich Kirby - Lead - Jun/06 with Ash

andi turner - 2nd - 29/May/06 with grimer

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

westaway - Lead O/S - 2005

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005 with Tidy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/04

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Viv

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2000 with John Southworth

DJonsight - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/99

Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/97

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 31/May/96

Roget - Lead O/S - 05/May/96 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

GuySummers - Lead - 1995

whispering nic - Lead - Aug/94 with Kat

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/93

Should have paced myself after Fay - one rest
shark - Lead - 08/May/93

keefe - 27/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 27/May/91 with keefe

Mike Owen - 07/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Oddjob, Motown, markalmack, Hidden, Hidden, RFWilkie, Ed Babs, Hidden, brices, J.A.Thomson, tom106, JamesRich, Nick Saunders, Hidden, Luke Dawson, andy dunn, Hidden, Ian Jones, Rick hard Rock, Dr Toph, Alex Mason, Rowansb, Hidden, mattyork2, Hidden, Hidden, prinny, AndyM-LVB, Hidden, Kyuzo, Hidden, Dave Searle, Jon_Warner, Ropeboy, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 91
hard E60 of 33
E60 of 33
easy E61 of 33
hard E51 of 33
E514 of 33
easy E510 of 33
hard E47 of 33
E40 of 33
easy E40 of 33
hard 6b0 of 32
6b0 of 32
easy 6b0 of 32
hard 6a2 of 32
6a22 of 32
easy 6a5 of 32
hard 5c3 of 32
5c0 of 32
easy 5c0 of 32
3 Stars26 of 26
2 Stars0 of 26
1 Star0 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

Lead53 of 75 (70.7%)
Followed12 of 75 (16.0%)
Alt Leads2 of 75 (2.7%)
Unknown8 of 75 (10.7%)

'Climbed'22 of 75 (29.3%)
clean O/S41 of 75 (54.7%)
clean β4 of 75 (5.3%)
clean rpt1 of 75 (1.3%)
clean RP1 of 75 (1.3%)
dogged6 of 75 (8.0%)