Pacemaker*** E5 6a
[Pacemaker and Fay in spring, 2 kb]30m.

Rockfax Description
An outstanding wall-climb that rates as one of the best pitches in the West Country. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks.
Climb the diagonal cracks until it is possible to move up the wall to another left-trending crack. Follow the crack left until below a thin crack-line that heads up back right. Climb the thin cracks, peg, to a break and another peg before finishing steeply leftwards along the break. © ROCKFAX

FA. Pat Littlejohn 15.5.86 15/May/1986

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50.

Photo: Pacemaker and Fay in spring © Mark Glaister
View all 15 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 42 wishlists.

Done over 20 years ago but couldn't remember it... Apart from that it was and is amazing climbing
mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/15 with Dave Toon

datoon - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/15 with mattnuttall

5210Hill - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/15

Jackislav - 2nd - 19/Jul/15 with Alex Moore

Alex moore - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15

Another classic at Sharpnose - the home of 'pull and go' climbing. Steady to the crux section, which starts at the discontinuous crack line going back up right and finishes a lot further along than you might think! I thought it would be over at the horizontal break - well it wasn't! The break is good but not as juggy as you'd like and the feet are tricky and spread out. Nice rest off a hell/toe though. It almost got desperate at the end but I found a good jug above the traverse line and finished direct rather than doing the last couple of moves along thr traverse - logical and that's where the chalk was going. Having the route chalked did help a bit. There are no desperately hard moves on this (a bit of easy 6a and a fair bit of solid 5c) but it's certainly steep and sustained. The gear is good as well (the pegs are ok but not essential anyway). Bottom end E5 or hard E4 if I were to be mean ;-)
Misha - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Ferdia, Andrew

1 rest on final break
Andrew Wilson - 2nd dog - 18/Jul/15 with Misha

pete johnson - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/15 with Conor Shepherd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/15 with Charles Dawson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15

James Marshall - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with sash

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 11/May/15 with Adam Booth

Alzheimers onsight. Amazing climbing. Loved the stuck-on dish undercling leading into the crux!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 11/May/15 with Ed Booth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/15

had watched Remus on it earlier, Good pumpy climbing
brices - Lead β - 09/May/15 with Remus, Llinos

Too pumped to clip the top peg, took a lovely whipper.
Andy Moles - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/15 with James Oswald

ian bryant - 2015


Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/14

ferdia - 2nd - 14/Sep/14 with Burton

burto - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with ferdia

Sweet. The holds were bigger and the gear less fiddly this time. Tried earlier in the summer but ran out of juice.
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 16/Aug/14 with AlexD

AlexD - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/14 with Ed

tim newton - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with jon stewart

AlexD - 2nd - 14/Jun/14 with Ed

irish paul - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Sarah Black

markalmack - 2nd O/S - 30/May/14 with james marjot

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

only just! got very tired having just lead Fay and others with Il Duce day before. shoes got wet in the other bay by the tide! funny
jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/13 with neil mcadie

Johnny Baker - AltLd - 20/Sep/13 with Sam Richards

First E5
climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Mike Watson

Awesome route, this has been on my to do list for years. If you have a decent level of fitness this feels like a path for E5 - it's well protected and there isn't much 6a.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13

Perfect trad above a rapidly advancing spring high. Topped out.
peteharrison06 - Lead O/S - Aug/13

Brilliant climbing, soft.
colesy - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Ged Desforges

1st e5. Chuffed. Was a close one at the top!
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Caroline

Mike W - Lead β - 04/Jun/12 with bigrob

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

Justin T - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Cherry

Led in the 1990s - just managed to make a desparate slap at the top with absolutely nothing left and Rich Mayfield (presumably eyeing my distant gear) leaning over the edge shouting "Grab my hand!". Glad I didn't - knowing Rich he would probably have snatched it away and thumbed his nose giggling as I plummeted seawards.
Brian H - Lead O/S - 2012 with Paul Newman

Hidden - 2012

Rain stopped play half way up!!
Adam Booth - 2nd - 16/Sep/11 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/11

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with michael porter

JRae - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with M Watson

alaan - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Will

john nightingale - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11 with fran santos

Fran S8 - 2nd - 08/Aug/11 with john nightingale

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Dad

Managed to avoid the pump and felt pretty easy for e5 - good gear and good holds all the way. Much easier than Wraith!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

Adam Lincoln - Lead β - 09/Jul/11 with Keith Sharples, Kev Avery

One rest/fall an inch from the top (after the last peg). So close (so pumped!)! Class route, felt hard after the rest of the jug fests here.
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/11

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Ed Heslam

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/May/11

stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 06/May/11 with Nathan Lawrence

david morse - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Al blackshaw

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11

mwatson - 2011

First led in 1989 ish.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Rich Mayfield

feilx - Lead RP - 28/Aug/10 with Heather

Disappointed to not get this one clean, just climbed too slowly and got rather pumped above the first peg. Much more sustained than Fay. Next time! Excellent gear all the way just climb quickly!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 14/Aug/10 with Ben, Emily

Soft E5 and soft 6a imo. Superb cimbing and a wicked pulse-raising finish. On mikes gear.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 26/Jul/10 with Mikey G

C'est magnifique! Sustained but quite relaxed most of the time, with adequate gear (but not in abundance). Crux section is superb from clipping the peg to the final break!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with alex mason

sustained 5c? cool route!
mgeek - Lead β - 11/Jul/10 with ally swinton, Tony Stone

Onsight attempt, fell off totally pumped above the top peg, about 2 foot from the top. So boxed it then took me the best part of 10 minutes to finish the route!
Justin T - Lead dog - 12/Jun/10 with Cherry

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Toby Dunn - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/May/08

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with KM

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

feilx - Lead dog - 14/Jul/07 with Heather

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2007 with Wendy Sampson

Hidden - 2007

Ideally would've backed up the 2 pegs at the top but they looked in good nick and was a bit too burnt from fay to hang around. first e5
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/06 with Alex Mason

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/06

Rich Kirby - Lead - Jun/06 with Ash

andi turner - 2nd - 29/May/06 with grimer

Dave-Westlake - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

westaway - Lead O/S - 2005

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005 with Tidy

Not E5
Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 23/May/04 with Praker

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Viv

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

DJonsight - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/99

Hidden - 1998

Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/97

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 31/May/96

Mistakenly finished straight up via a rounded niche to the top of Fay, possibly the magic carpet finish. Totally gripping and felt it was worth E6
Roget - Lead O/S - 05/May/96 with jon

Gregory - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

GuySummers - Lead - 1995

whispering nic - Lead - Aug/94 with Kat

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 05/Aug/93 with Phil Baker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/93

Should have paced myself after Fay - one rest
shark - Lead - 08/May/93

Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/91

keefe - 27/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 27/May/91 with keefe

Mike Owen - 07/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
_m.cox_, martinov, Davros the Psyched, Oddjob, Motown, RFWilkie, Ed Babs, brices, tom106, JamesRich, Nick Saunders, andy dunn, Ian Jones, Ricky Rocks, Alex Mason, Rowansb, mattyork2, prinny, AndyM-LVB, Kyuzo, Dave Searle, Jon_Warner, Ropeboy

Total votes cast 115
hard E60 of 41
E60 of 41
easy E61 of 41
hard E51 of 41
E518 of 41
easy E513 of 41
hard E48 of 41
E40 of 41
easy E40 of 41
hard 6b0 of 40
6b0 of 40
easy 6b0 of 40
hard 6a2 of 40
6a26 of 40
easy 6a8 of 40
hard 5c4 of 40
5c0 of 40
easy 5c0 of 40
3 Stars34 of 34
2 Stars0 of 34
1 Star0 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP