Jackislav - 2nd - 19/Jul/15 with Alex Moore
Alex moore - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15
Another classic at Sharpnose - the home of 'pull and go' climbing. Steady to the crux section, which starts at the discontinuous crack line going back up right and finishes a lot further along than you might think! I thought it would be over at the horizontal break - well it wasn't! The break is good but not as juggy as you'd like and the feet are tricky and spread out. Nice rest off a hell/toe though. It almost got desperate at the end but I found a good jug above the traverse line and finished direct rather than doing the last couple of moves along thr traverse - logical and that's where the chalk was going. Having the route chalked did help a bit. There are no desperately hard moves on this (a bit of easy 6a and a fair bit of solid 5c) but it's certainly steep and sustained. The gear is good as well (the pegs are ok but not essential anyway). Bottom end E5 or hard E4 if I were to be mean ;-)
Misha - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Ferdia, Andrew
1 rest on final break
Andrew Wilson - 2nd dog - 18/Jul/15 with Misha
pete johnson - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/15 with Conor Shepherd
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15
Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/15 with Charles Dawson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/15
Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 11/May/15 with Adam Booth
Alzheimers onsight. Amazing climbing. Loved the stuck-on dish undercling leading into the crux!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 11/May/15 with Ed Booth
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/15
had watched Remus on it earlier, Good pumpy climbing
brices - Lead β - 09/May/15 with Remus, Llinos
Too pumped to clip the top peg, took a lovely whipper.
Andy Moles - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/15 with James Oswald
ian bryant - 2015
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/14
ferdia - 2nd - 14/Sep/14 with Burton
burto - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with ferdia
Sweet. The holds were bigger and the gear less fiddly this time. Tried earlier in the summer but ran out of juice.
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 16/Aug/14 with AlexD
AlexD - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/14 with Ed
tim newton - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with jon stewart
AlexD - 2nd - 14/Jun/14 with Ed
irish paul - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Sarah Black
markalmack - 2nd O/S - 30/May/14 with james marjot
Hidden - 2014
Hidden - 2014
only just! got very tired having just lead Fay and others with Il Duce day before. shoes got wet in the other bay by the tide! funny
jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/13 with neil mcadie
Johnny Baker - AltLd - 20/Sep/13 with Sam Richards
climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Mike Watson
Awesome route, this has been on my to do list for years. If you have a decent level of fitness this feels like a path for E5 - it's well protected and there isn't much 6a.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13
Perfect trad above a rapidly advancing spring high. Topped out.
peteharrison06 - Lead O/S - Aug/13
Brilliant climbing, soft.
colesy - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Ged Desforges
1st e5. Chuffed. Was a close one at the top!
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Caroline
Mike W - Lead β - 04/Jun/12 with bigrob
Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/12
Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12
Justin T - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Cherry
Led in the 1990s - just managed to make a desparate slap at the top with absolutely nothing left and Rich Mayfield (presumably eyeing my distant gear) leaning over the edge shouting "Grab my hand!". Glad I didn't - knowing Rich he would probably have snatched it away and thumbed his nose giggling as I plummeted seawards.
Brian H - Lead O/S - 2012 with Paul Newman
Hidden - 2012
Rain stopped play half way up!!
Adam Booth - 2nd - 16/Sep/11 with Ed Booth
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/11
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with michael porter
JRae - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with M Watson
alaan - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Will
john nightingale - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11 with fran santos
Fran S8 - 2nd - 08/Aug/11 with john nightingale
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Dad
Managed to avoid the pump and felt pretty easy for e5 - good gear and good holds all the way. Much easier than Wraith!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11
Adam Lincoln - Lead β - 09/Jul/11 with Keith Sharples, Kev Avery
One rest/fall an inch from the top (after the last peg). So close (so pumped!)! Class route, felt hard after the rest of the jug fests here.
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11 with Mike
Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/11
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Ed Heslam
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/May/11
stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 06/May/11 with Nathan Lawrence
david morse - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Al blackshaw
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11
mwatson - 2011
First led in 1989 ish.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Rich Mayfield
feilx - Lead RP - 28/Aug/10 with Heather
Disappointed to not get this one clean, just climbed too slowly and got rather pumped above the first peg. Much more sustained than Fay. Next time! Excellent gear all the way just climb quickly!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 14/Aug/10 with Ben, Emily
Soft E5 and soft 6a imo. Superb cimbing and a wicked pulse-raising finish. On mikes gear.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 26/Jul/10 with Mikey G
C'est magnifique! Sustained but quite relaxed most of the time, with adequate gear (but not in abundance). Crux section is superb from clipping the peg to the final break!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with alex mason
sustained 5c? cool route!
mgeek - Lead β - 11/Jul/10 with ally swinton, Tony Stone
Onsight attempt, fell off totally pumped above the top peg, about 2 foot from the top. So boxed it then took me the best part of 10 minutes to finish the route!
Justin T - Lead dog - 12/Jun/10 with Cherry
Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09
Toby Dunn - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/May/08
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with KM
Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/07
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07
feilx - Lead dog - 14/Jul/07 with Heather
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2007 with Wendy Sampson
Hidden - 2007
Ideally would've backed up the 2 pegs at the top but they looked in good nick and was a bit too burnt from fay to hang around. first e5
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/06 with Alex Mason
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/06
Rich Kirby - Lead - Jun/06 with Ash
andi turner - 2nd - 29/May/06 with grimer
Dave-Westlake - 2006
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005
westaway - Lead O/S - 2005
tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005 with Tidy
Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 23/May/04 with Praker
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Viv
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000
DJonsight - 2000
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/99
Hidden - 1998
Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/97
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 31/May/96
Mistakenly finished straight up via a rounded niche to the top of Fay, possibly the magic carpet finish. Totally gripping and felt it was worth E6
Roget - Lead O/S - 05/May/96 with jon
Gregory - Lead - 1996
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995
GuySummers - Lead - 1995
whispering nic - Lead - Aug/94 with Kat
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/94 with Alan Holden
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 05/Aug/93 with Phil Baker
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/93
Should have paced myself after Fay - one rest
shark - Lead - 08/May/93
Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/91
keefe - 27/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe
Glenn Sutcliffe - 27/May/91 with keefe
Mike Owen - 07/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen