Rockfax Description
An outstanding wall-climb that rates as one of the best pitches in the West Country. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks.
Climb the diagonal cracks until it is possible to move up the wall to another left-trending crack. Follow the crack left until below a thin crack-line that heads up back right. Climb the thin cracks, peg, to a break and another peg before finishing steeply leftwards along the break. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn 15.5.86 15/May/1986

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Hidden 02/Nov Lead RP
Hidden 25/Oct Lead dog
Hidden 18/Oct Lead dog
benkelsey 16/Oct 2nd O/S

Felt no harder than Fay with better gear. Great climbing!

philhilo 16/Oct Lead dog

First E5 lead. Outrageous thought even getting on it. Ran out of gas just before top crack. Rested twice. Gear excellent throughout, no really hard moves. Will go next time.

chrisdevon 12/Oct 2nd dog
with Dan Arkle
mattnuttall 16/Aug 2nd O/S

Done over 20 years ago but couldn't remember it... Apart from that it was and is amazing climbing

datoon 16/Aug Lead O/S
5210Hill 16/Aug 2nd dog
Jackislav 19/Jul 2nd
Alex moore 18/Jul Lead O/S
Misha 18/Jul Lead O/S

Another classic at Sharpnose - the home of 'pull and go' climbing. Steady to the crux section, which starts at the discontinuous crack line going back up right and finishes a lot further along than you might think! I thought it would be over at the horizontal break - well it wasn't! The break is good but not as juggy as you'd like and the feet are tricky and spread out. Nice rest off a hell/toe though. It almost got desperate at the end but I found a good jug above the traverse line and finished direct rather than doing the last couple of moves along thr traverse - logical and that's where the chalk was going. Having the route chalked did help a bit. There are no desperately hard moves on this (a bit of easy 6a and a fair bit of solid 5c) but it's certainly steep and sustained. The gear is good as well (the pegs are ok but not essential anyway). Bottom end E5 or hard E4 if I were to be mean ;-)

Andrew Wilson 18/Jul 2nd dog

1 rest on final break

with Misha
pete johnson 16/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 25/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 11/May 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 11/May Lead O/S

Alzheimers onsight. Amazing climbing. Loved the stuck-on dish undercling leading into the crux!

Hidden 09/May Lead O/S
brices 09/May Lead β

had watched Remus on it earlier, Good pumpy climbing

Andy Moles 09/Apr Lead dnf

Too pumped to clip the top peg, took a lovely whipper.

with James Oswald
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
ferdia 14/Sep/14 2nd
with Burton
burto 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with ferdia
Ed Babs 16/Aug/14 Lead RP

Sweet. The holds were bigger and the gear less fiddly this time. Tried earlier in the summer but ran out of juice.

with AlexD
AlexD 16/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Ed
tim newton 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
AlexD 14/Jun/14 2nd
with Ed
irish paul 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 30/May/14 2nd O/S
with james marjot
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
jamesturnbull 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S

only just! got very tired having just lead Fay and others with Il Duce day before. shoes got wet in the other bay by the tide! funny

with neil mcadie
Johnny Baker 20/Sep/13 AltLd
with Sam Richards
climbingsheep 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

First E5

with Mike Watson
Joughton 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Awesome route, this has been on my to do list for years. If you have a decent level of fitness this feels like a path for E5 - it's well protected and there isn't much 6a.

peteharrison06 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Perfect trad above a rapidly advancing spring high. Topped out.

colesy 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing, soft.

with Ged Desforges
Bristoldave 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

1st e5. Chuffed. Was a close one at the top!

with Caroline
Mike W 04/Jun/12 Lead β
with bigrob
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead
Justin T 06/May/12 2nd
with Cherry
Brian H ??/2012 Lead O/S

Led in the 1990s - just managed to make a desparate slap at the top with absolutely nothing left and Rich Mayfield (presumably eyeing my distant gear) leaning over the edge shouting "Grab my hand!". Glad I didn't - knowing Rich he would probably have snatched it away and thumbed his nose giggling as I plummeted seawards.

with Paul Newman
Hidden ??/2012 -
Adam Booth 16/Sep/11 2nd

Rain stopped play half way up!!

Ed Booth 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
dan gibson 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
JRae 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
alaan 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Will
john nightingale 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 08/Aug/11 2nd
dannyboy83 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
quiffhanger 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Managed to avoid the pump and felt pretty easy for e5 - good gear and good holds all the way. Much easier than Wraith!

Adam Lincoln 09/Jul/11 Lead β
with Keith Sharples, Kev Avery
thomasadixon 26/Jun/11 Lead dog

One rest/fall an inch from the top (after the last peg). So close (so pumped!)! Class route, felt hard after the rest of the jug fests here.

with Mike
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd dog
Spacetourist 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Ed Heslam
pezzerrr 14/May/11 Lead O/S
stevebarratt 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
david morse 01/May/11 Lead O/S


with Al blackshaw
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt

First led in 1989 ish.

with Rich Mayfield
feilx 28/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Heather
Chad123 14/Aug/10 AltLd dog

Disappointed to not get this one clean, just climbed too slowly and got rather pumped above the first peg. Much more sustained than Fay. Next time! Excellent gear all the way just climb quickly!

with Ben, Emily
Alex Mason 26/Jul/10 Lead β

Soft E5 and soft 6a imo. Superb cimbing and a wicked pulse-raising finish. On mikes gear.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S

C'est magnifique! Sustained but quite relaxed most of the time, with adequate gear (but not in abundance). Crux section is superb from clipping the peg to the final break!

mgeek 11/Jul/10 Lead β

sustained 5c? cool route!

with ally swinton, Tony Stone
Justin T 12/Jun/10 Lead dog

Onsight attempt, fell off totally pumped above the top peg, about 2 foot from the top. So boxed it then took me the best part of 10 minutes to finish the route!

with Cherry
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 14/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
Hidden 07/May/08 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 31/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
feilx 14/Jul/07 Lead dog
with Heather
ecowaller ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Wendy Sampson
Hidden ??/2007 -
Ram MkiV 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Ideally would've backed up the 2 pegs at the top but they looked in good nick and was a bit too burnt from fay to hang around. first e5

with Alex Mason
Hidden 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/06 Lead
with Ash
andi turner 29/May/06 2nd
with grimer
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
westaway ??/2005 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Tidy
Adam Ellwood 23/May/04 Lead O/S

Not E5

with Praker
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
DJonsight ??/2000 -
Hidden 12/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 -
Hidden 24/Aug/97 Lead
PaulTanton 31/May/96 Lead O/S
Roget 05/May/96 Lead O/S

Mistakenly finished straight up via a rounded niche to the top of Fay, possibly the magic carpet finish. Totally gripping and felt it was worth E6

with jon
Gregory ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
GuySummers ??/1995 Lead
whispering nic ?/Aug/94 Lead
with Kat
mattnuttall 19/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 2nd O/S
with Dave Henderson
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/93 Lead
with Phil Baker
Hidden 01/Aug/93 Lead O/S
shark 08/May/93 Lead

Should have paced myself after Fay - one rest

Chris Wright 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
keefe 27/May/91 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 27/May/91 -
with keefe
Mike Owen 07/Aug/89 -
with Elaine Owen
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
philhilo, max_dickens, _m.cox_, martinov, Hidden, Kipper-Phil Smith, Davros the Psyched, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Oddjob, Motown, Hidden, Hidden, RFWilkie, Ed Babs, Hidden, brices, Hidden, tom106, JamesRich, Nick Saunders, Hidden, andy dunn, Hidden, Ian Jones, Ricky Rocks, Hidden, Alex Mason, Rowansb, Hidden, mattyork2, Hidden, Hidden, prinny, AndyM-LVB, Hidden, Kyuzo, Hidden, Dave Searle, Jon_Warner, Ropeboy, Hidden
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 41
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set