UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning, pumpy wall climb that fires up the face on generally-good holds. The pegs on the route are old but alternative gear options are available. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks. Move up the cracks and then head diagonally right across the wall on good holds to another left-trending line of quartz cracks, good spike runner above. Climb the cracks to a wider section and follow this to below some thin cracks that head up the wall. Climb the wall and thin cracks, past pegs, to a short thin crack that heads slightly right to a break. Follow the break left to a niche and the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn 16.5.86 16/May/1986.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Good E4s , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , World Class Britain & Ireland , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Preparation for the Resurrection , South West in Extremis , Connor and Georgia's Super Climbing Extravaganza

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 16 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: June 2022 - the ab tat is acceptable (oldish static plus new 5mm cord) but could do with new rope / static. We only had cord, which won’t have added much.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: June 2022 - the ab tat is acceptable (oldish static plus new 5mm cord) but could do with new rope / static. We only had cord, which won’t have added much.
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Failed on this due to terminal pump. Wasn't overkeen on the rock quality either. Compare this to, say, Resurrection: Res has perfect rock, obvious gear, two mega-rests and turns slightly slabby to finish. Fay has sandy rock for most of it, spaced and sometimes funny gear, one shake-out too low to be of use, and turns slightly overhanging to finish. Hard, I think.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Failed on this due to terminal pump. Wasn't overkeen on the rock quality either. Compare this to, say, Resurrection: Res has perfect rock, obvious gear, two mega-rests and turns slightly slabby to finish. Fay has sandy rock for most of it, spaced and sometimes funny gear, one shake-out too low to be of use, and turns slightly overhanging to finish. Hard, I think.
NuclearNev 1 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a pumpy route and seems about the same difficulty as Wraith to me. I thought I was feeling strong till I got on it and got pumped to oblivion. I think the 3 pegs together should hold a fall, and it is possible to place additional wires and friends to back them up if your forearms let you!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a pumpy route and seems about the same difficulty as Wraith to me. I thought I was feeling strong till I got on it and got pumped to oblivion. I think the 3 pegs together should hold a fall, and it is possible to place additional wires and friends to back them up if your forearms let you!
psicobloc 26 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than some other e4s at the crag, but still fair for the grade. Pegs can be backed up. I found it a bit sandy/dusty for a 3 star route, good never the less though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder than some other e4s at the crag, but still fair for the grade. Pegs can be backed up. I found it a bit sandy/dusty for a 3 star route, good never the less though.
Climber_Bill 26 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The gear is fine at this grade. If you are experienced with different rock types, then finding good placements is not a problem. As Dave Kerr says, Fay gets E4 as it is a bit pumpy. The section after the top peg (which can be backed up) is slightly run out, but nothing to worry about.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The gear is fine at this grade. If you are experienced with different rock types, then finding good placements is not a problem. As Dave Kerr says, Fay gets E4 as it is a bit pumpy. The section after the top peg (which can be backed up) is slightly run out, but nothing to worry about.
DaveHK 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Gear seemed pretty bomber to me. Hanging around to place it is what makes it E4!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gear seemed pretty bomber to me. Hanging around to place it is what makes it E4!
Dave Musgrove 2 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The pegs wern't too bad last year. And most can be backed up with reasonable gear. Still worth E4 however just for the sustained nature of the climbing. Superb! (P.S. Al, if it's any consolation my son led me up it.) Dave
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The pegs wern't too bad last year. And most can be backed up with reasonable gear. Still worth E4 however just for the sustained nature of the climbing. Superb! (P.S. Al, if it's any consolation my son led me up it.) Dave
Al Evans 2 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Super climb, but horror of horrors we top roped it because the pegs were so bad, probably acceptable pro at E4, but really they should be replaced.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super climb, but horror of horrors we top roped it because the pegs were so bad, probably acceptable pro at E4, but really they should be replaced.

Logged Ascents

335 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 128 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 84
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 71
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eroica

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pentire Point)

Loading Notifications...