Fay*** E4 5c
[Fay and Break on Through, Lower Sharpnose, Devon, 2 kb]30m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning, pumpy wall climb that fires up the face on generally-good holds. The pegs on the route are fast deteriorating but alternative gear options are available. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks.
30m. Move up the cracks and then head diagonally right across the wall on good holds to another left-trending line of quartz cracks, good spike runner above. Climb the cracks to a wider section and follow this to below some thin cracks that head up the wall. Climb the wall and thin cracks, past pegs, to a short thin crack that heads slightly right to a break. Follow the break left to a niche and the top just above. © ROCKFAX

FA. Pat Littlejohn 16.5.86 16/May/1986

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: Fay and Break on Through, Lower Sharpnose, Devon © Dan Arkle
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This climb is in 137 logbooks, and on 49 wishlists.

wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with hosey

Desperate slap about 3/4 of the way up (only because I'm short I think) - spicy times! Otherwise felt technically easier than Break On Through, just pumpier and less gear.
AlexD - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/14 with Ed

Pumpy!! Have always been a bit intimidated by this as when I visited Sharpnose as fledgling climber I got super shut-down. Felt ok up to the pegs but they are pretty dodge, only one looked in a reasonable state to me? Only got a small blue alien (bomber) above these before having to slap my way to the top riding a wave of lactic... certainly top end of the grade, especially with the pegs in the state they are.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/14 with GuyVG

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/14

JM - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Stevo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14

Sarah Black - Lead dog - 31/May/14 with Paul Black

markalmack - Lead O/S - 30/May/14 with james marjot

One fall at the crux pegs. Gutted.
kingholmesy - Lead dog - 2014 with Mark the vet

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/13 with neil mcadie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13

climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Mike Watson

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

Great route spoiled slightly by the crux being a clip-up on rotting fixed gear. Get rid @ E5, or put in something sustainable.
peteharrison06 - Lead O/S - Aug/13

Very cool, laced it up.
Justin T - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Russ

Only just got this clean. Big and adventurous in perfect conditions. One of my best days out at a crag for sure.
R2B - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Justin

Dave Searle - 2nd - 25/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13

Climbed far too slowly, as a result absolutely pumped above the pegs and fell off. Topped out after rests. Simon seconded cleanly. What a rock and what a route!
masa-alpin - Lead dog - 26/May/13 with Simon P

Hidden - 2nd β - 26/May/13

Great route- pumpy. Lead it then seconded it as Sophie also led it. Just as pumpy second time!
morganator - Lead - 11/May/13 with Sophie Whyte

Just felt like a brilliant f6b+ on a top-rope...tidied up the abseil tat a bit by cutting off the horrible old stuff, leaving some decent static rope.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 2013 with Tom Livingstone

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

cymjt - 2013

Fell just pulling into the niche - lacticsville. Awesome route.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead dog - 30/Aug/12 with ollie

Gritty low down. Pumped and sure I wouldn't make it from the start of the thin cracks all the way to the top. : )
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Mike Hawkins

One rest at the pegs :( - hungover and tired. Gutted! Should've carried on until I fell.. so much regret! Lesson learnt. Amazing route! E4 5c ***
rustaldo - Lead dog - 29/Jul/12 with Lewis

burto - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with tom powell, jerome

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/12

Mike W - Lead RP - 20/Jun/12 with bigrob

Ramon Marin - Lead RP - 17/Jun/12 with ciaran tracey

Hidden - TR - 11/Jun/12

Extremo Pumpo. 1 poor peg, backupable, the rest your so high it dont matter, or u can back them up.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with George Coiley

Pippa - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Jim Brooke, Richard

Fell off this a year ago.
Bristoldave - Lead RP - 06/May/12 with Cusco

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Mick Ward

colesy - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Bob - 2012

Brian H - 2012

Hidden - 2012

incredible route! brilliant day!!
tom106 - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with funsized

Blinking hell this is pumpy. Amazing O/S from tom. Fun race against the tide! (tide won, just)
funsized - 2nd dog - 12/Nov/11 with Tom Maidwell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/11

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/11 with michael porter

Perfect climbing. Ace!
JRae - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/11 with M Watson

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/11 with Dad

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Keith Sharples, Kev Avery

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Mike

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - May/11 with Rosea

Rosea Day - 2nd β - May/11

Not a proper ascent since Dave had placed the gear for me to clip.
Ben1983 - Lead β - 29/Apr/11

Very happy to do this route, wanted to do it for ages. Classic!
david morse - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with lole, ben anderson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Apr/11

Fran S8 - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/11

So good, done it twice both times felt like definitive hard E4, it's pumpy so it'll probably seem easy if you don't get pumped
mwatson - 2011 with johnny, thomasadixon

Led in late 80s
Dave Turnbull, BMC - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Rich Mayfield

solid e3. upper pegs in good nick at time of writing. soft f6c
ian caton - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Abi

Mike W - Lead dog - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10

simply amazing... pump fest, even on second
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Jason

Could be E5 when the pegs go, not much easier than pacemaker. Absolutely awesome though.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Mikey G

Lead on Alex's gear. Such an impressive wall and impressive line. Not much between this and pacemaker move for move, but hard to tell when your not placing gear.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead β - 26/Jul/10 with alex mason

Brown - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Ben Lepesant

Thought it was a great route, But didn't think it was E4!
Ally Baba - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Tony Stone, Mcgeek

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

Simply awesome - first half is pretty steady then suddenly the steep crux arrives -though with plenty of pegs to aim for. Pump kicks in at the top but climbing eases up. Best route done this week!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Emily

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

nick arding - Lead - 10/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

simon kimber - Lead dnf - 23/May/09 with Hamish Rowe

Toby Dunn - Lead - 04/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes

Just...fingery and dusty higher up!
sebrider - 2nd O/S - Apr/08 with Roby Rudolf

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07

Sat on a cam/wire below the crux pegs and dogged my way down to the spike and abbed.
Paz - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/07 with AB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/07

Didn't warm up, freezing day, got pumped. Duh.
alaan - Lead dnf - 18/Mar/07 with Aly

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/06 with helen gibson

Dave Kerr - Lead - 12/Aug/06 with Jill Kerr

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/06 with Alex Cannon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/06

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/06 with Alex Mason

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/06

feilx - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Crazy Tom

awesome climb but massively long - my arms had melted by the top
beanfingers - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/06 with felix

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

datoon - Lead O/S - 2006 with RT

Dave-Westlake - 2006

Good sustained pitch.
Dave Musgrove - 2nd β - Sep/05 with David

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

westaway - Lead O/S - 2005

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005

A big tick for me after quite a bit of training with it in mind.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 30/Oct/04 with Lee Bartrop

furry - Lead dog - Jun/04 with Neil

Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 22/May/04 with Praker

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/02 with Chris Reid

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/01 with Viv

Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/00

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2000 with John Southworth

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

DJonsight - 2000

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 04/Sep/99 with Roy Thomas

Paul Clarke - 1998 with Nick Dalzell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/97

kp64zl - 2nd - Mar/97 with David Pickford

Roget - Lead O/S - 05/May/96 with jon

Rest on peg
Derek Ryden - Lead dog - Jun/95 with Jim Cheshire

ChrisJD - 2nd - 06/May/95 with LukeS

whispering nic - Lead - Aug/94 with Kat

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/93

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/93 with KM

shark - Lead - 08/May/93

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton

whispering nic - May/92 with Graham Iles

Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/91

keefe - Lead O/S - 27/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 27/May/91 with keefe

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 1990 with John Jefferies

Hidden - 2nd - 1990

Mike Owen - 07/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1989

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
phil64, EyebrowTom, Stroppy, mike mo, Carter, Motown, Brendan, ChrisBrooke, alexjz, RFWilkie, brices, seankenny, wi11, rustaldo, Nick Saunders, drcorbasisgod, andy dunn, quiffhanger, Adam Booth, Ian Jones, monsteratt, Dan Lane, chris j, Dan_Carroll, Rowansb, philhilo, mattyork2, Dave Searle, Kyuzo, Owen W-G, Billg, Stig, Ropeboy, alaan, pmot, a_radiohead_fan, Alex1

Total votes cast 144
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