Devon > Chudleigh Rocks >
 
Logic** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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Gagool >>
2 pitches. A fine route with two excellent pitches. The line of the first pitch is very obvious. The start is a little slick but things improve once off the deck. 1) 5b. Climb just left of the arete to a peg at 5m. then move up and right on improving holds on to the arete itself. Continue to belays on the ledge. 2) 4c. Move left to a block and then climb the open groove above. © ROCKFAX
FA. F.Cannings 1965
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This climb is in 118 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Quite sustained, with good moves right from start. First time at crux managed to find one of few dribbles of seepage left, slipped & sat on peg. Lowered off, pulled rope & started again - but decided to back peg up this time! Used different sequence & went fine. P1 only.
Andy Clarke - Lead - 30/Aug/14 with sk1nfl1nt

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/14

Lee_Meaden - Lead β - 09/Jul/14

Ants first E1 lead!
OllieF - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/14 with Ant

Finally found a partner to get this on the lead with - Ant led second pitch, his first E1! Previously shunted this a few times on my own.
OllieF - AltLd RP - 30/Jun/14 with Ant

Bristoldave - Lead β - 24/Feb/14 with Dawlish

lawsy_boy1 - Lead - 2014

Anthonybevis - 2014 with ollie

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/13

Great little route.
R2B - Lead rpt - 23/Sep/13 with Charlotte

martin clarke - 2nd - 16/Jul/13 with steve ashworth

stephen ashworth - Lead - 16/Jul/13 with martin clarke

Nice couple of mono pockets. P1 only.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 03/Jul/13 with Sarah Massey

Good little one-mover.
Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Tammy

steveprice.exmouth - TR dog - 03/May/13 with David Coley

P1.
Dale Turrell - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/13 with Finn

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/13

ad111 - Lead dog - 31/Aug/12

burto - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with hertha

P1 only
Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - Jun/12

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Lyndsay

Kate Edhouse - TR O/S - 16/Mar/12 with jake parrish

Ian Hughes - 2012

First E1 lead! Don't get the on-sight as I tried and failed it at beginning of year (knackered my finger on it too....)
BelayBunney - Lead RP - 08/Oct/11 with Francois

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

just one more - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Svenn G

Graham C - AltLd - 11/Aug/11 with Marti

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Graham Charman

1st pitch only.
Dale Turrell - 2nd β - 10/Aug/11 with Jerome

Popkids - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Baz

berry - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Kafoozalem

first climb of the day. Ended up resting on the peg,after a flash pump then had to wait for the rain to stop before finishing the route.
Popkids - Lead dog - 11/Jun/11 with Baz

wolverine - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Sarah Marks

Ed Babs - 2nd O/S - 28/May/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead β - 28/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/11

Frostie - Lead - 17/May/11

francois - Lead - 13/May/11 with Tammy

Went wrong way after crux! duh
little_tammy - 2nd dog - 13/May/11 with Francois Bocquet

chris ebbutt - Lead - 11/May/11 with Stuart, Steve

First 3 bits of gear already placed which took the sting out of the tail.
mark schramm - Lead rpt - 01/May/11 with rupert

MH123 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/11 with Jack Folland

tom169 - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Jerome

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Mar/11

mark schramm - TR - 06/Feb/11 with tom m

tommoulds - TR O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Schramm

jellyfish82 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 12/Sep/10

Rupey - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/10

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

La Mont - 30/Aug/10 with Rich Horn

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/10

Will Hodges - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - TR - 17/Jun/10

First pitch only but second not work it apparently.
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Harry

thomb - Jun/10

Jimma - 2nd β - 12/Apr/10 with Matt

Matt02003 - 2nd - 2010 with James

jcook1980 - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/09

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09

Rested on a piece of gear due to poor footwork, nice moves, first E1 in 20 years!
surfbish - Lead - 27/Sep/09 with Ben

did this thinking that it's gagool. Lead and dogged the first pitch.
duzinga - AltLd - 08/Sep/09 with Gary, Pete

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/09

Hauled my arse up after Tuze dogged his way up it - totally pumped to death!
gazbonutter - TR dog - 08/Sep/09 with Tuze, Pete MacDonald

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/09

adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with jack folland

37degrees - Lead RP - 28/Jul/09 with J.Baker

almost came off! lucky i did it when i did as it began to rain shortly after!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with WEALER!!

Clean ground up but blew the onsight arranging gear at the peg.
nblackbeard - Lead RP - 21/Jun/09 with Tom Grant

adamscottthomas - Lead β - 13/Jun/09 with Kafoozalem

felt easy having seconded it a week before
misterb - Lead rpt - 04/Apr/09 with sim

Gagool next :)
JonHarvey - Lead rpt - 03/Apr/09

Hidden - TR β - 03/Apr/09

approximate data
raku - Lead β - 01/Feb/09 with Jerome Taylor

Kate Edhouse - 2nd O/S - Jan/09 with James Clapham

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Dec/08

Tagged Pitch 2 of Gagool onto this.
briar4012 - 2nd dog - 23/Dec/08 with Pete

Awsome route first E1!!! Fell off it 2 weeks befor hand because of stupid ideas of climbing in the wet.
Jack_F - Lead rpt - 29/Nov/08 with Bob foley

1st E1 :) Rest before the crux. Climbed as one pitch as in the SD + D guide book.
JonHarvey - Lead dog - 24/Sep/08

dmoir - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/08 with Jon Harvey

lovely moves between pockets- got pretty pumped in the calves while placing though. got benighted on the second pitch and ran away. the piton abseil was worrying.grand evening out
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with neighbour martin

tskelhon - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with John_Warner

Got well pumped and had to hang on the rope at the start.
Popkids - 2nd - 28/Jun/08 with Kafoozalem & Baz

Steerpike - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/08 with Huw

P1 only. Fell off the start on first attempt.
Justin T - Lead RP - 06/Jun/08 with Rich

Jon_Warner - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/08 with Tom

Fluffed up clipping the peg at 5m, so lost the O/S.Result of not tradding for 6 months! Good route done in 1 pitch. Careful with top pitch as there is a large section of very loose rock.
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 04/Apr/08 with Sarah Warner

sam coward - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Rupe and Wayne

Rupey - Lead β - 17/Feb/08 with W, S +H

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/08 with Tommo

sharmawho? - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave

Hidden - Lead - 2008

JeromeT - Lead O/S - 2008

richardr - Lead β - Sep/07

misterb - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/07 with sim and dave

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/07 with sim

francois - 2nd - Apr/07 with Ben

climber sim - 2007

OliBoyes - 2007 with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

nopants - 2nd - 2007 with Rob

damp
jade Edwards Leaney - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/06 with vaughan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/06

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

chris j - Lead - 2005

Ben1983 - Lead rpt - Jul/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/02

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/00 with jim

jmhood - Lead O/S - 2000 with Wayne Miller

pmot - 1994

sdht - 1994

Climbed p1. Described as "Gagool Varaition" in the 83/85 guide.
Pete Nugent - 12/Feb/89 with Simon Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/83

Ena - 2nd - Jul/83 with Mark Courtiour

Hidden - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
OllieF, Jamiet297, Hidden, petecallaghan, Master Chief, Will Hodges, Phil79, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 70
hard E20 of 24
E20 of 24
easy E20 of 24
hard E13 of 24
E121 of 24
easy E10 of 24
hard HVS0 of 24
HVS0 of 24
easy HVS0 of 24
hard 5c0 of 24
5c0 of 24
easy 5c1 of 24
hard 5b7 of 24
5b11 of 24
easy 5b0 of 24
hard 5a4 of 24
5a1 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
3 Stars0 of 22
2 Stars16 of 22
1 Star6 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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Style of ascent

Lead68 of 118 (57.6%)
Followed25 of 118 (21.2%)
Toproped9 of 118 (7.6%)
Alt Leads5 of 118 (4.2%)
Unknown11 of 118 (9.3%)

'Climbed'37 of 118 (31.4%)
clean O/S40 of 118 (33.9%)
clean β10 of 118 (8.5%)
clean rpt16 of 118 (13.6%)
clean RP7 of 118 (5.9%)
dogged8 of 118 (6.8%)