Devon > Chudleigh Rocks >
 
Logic** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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Gagool >>
2 pitches. A fine route with two excellent pitches. The line of the first pitch is very obvious. The start is a little slick but things improve once off the deck. 1) 5b. Climb just left of the arete to a peg at 5m. then move up and right on improving holds on to the arete itself. Continue to belays on the ledge. 2) 4c. Move left to a block and then climb the open groove above. © ROCKFAX
FA. F.Cannings 1965
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 103 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

steveprice.exmouth - TR dog - 03/May/13 with David Coley

P1.
Dale Turrell - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/13

ad111 - Lead dog - 31/Aug/12

burto - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with hertha

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Lyndsay

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Mar/12

Ian Hughes - 2012

First E1 lead! Don't get the on-sight as I tried and failed it at beginning of year (knackered my finger on it too....)
BelayBunney - Lead RP - 08/Oct/11 with Francois

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

just one more - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Svenn G

Graham C - AltLd - 11/Aug/11 with Marti

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Graham Charman

1st pitch only.
Dale Turrell - 2nd β - 10/Aug/11

Popkids - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Baz

berry - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Kafoozalem

first climb of the day. Ended up resting on the peg,after a flash pump then had to wait for the rain to stop before finishing the route.
Popkids - Lead dog - 11/Jun/11 with Baz

wolverine - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Sarah Marks

Ed Babs - 2nd O/S - 28/May/11 with Tom Thorne

took one fall misread moves, easy 2nd proper go
Tom Thorne - Lead β - 28/May/11 with Ed babington

floss_81 - 2nd - 17/May/11 with john frost

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/11

francois - Lead - 13/May/11 with Tammy

Went wrong way after crux! duh
little_tammy - 2nd dog - 13/May/11 with Francois Bocquet

chris ebbutt - Lead - 11/May/11 with Stuart, Steve

First 3 bits of gear already placed which took the sting out of the tail.
mark schramm - Lead rpt - 01/May/11 with rupert

MH123 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/11 with Jack Folland

tom169 - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Jerome

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Mar/11

mark schramm - TR - 06/Feb/11 with tom m

tommoulds - TR O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Schramm

jellyfish82 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/10

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

La Mont - 30/Aug/10 with Rich Horn

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/10

Will Hodges - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - TR - 17/Jun/10

First pitch only but second not work it apparently.
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Harry

thomb - Jun/10

Jimma - 2nd β - 12/Apr/10 with Matt

Matt02003 - 2nd - 2010 with James

jcook1980 - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/09

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09

Rested on a piece of gear due to poor footwork, nice moves, first E1 in 20 years!
surfbish - Lead - 27/Sep/09 with Ben

did this thinking that it's gagool. Lead and dogged the first pitch.
duzinga - AltLd - 08/Sep/09 with Gary, Pete

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/09

Hauled my arse up after Tuze dogged his way up it - totally pumped to death!
gazbonutter - TR dog - 08/Sep/09 with Tuze, Pete MacDonald

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/09

adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with jack folland

37degrees - Lead RP - 28/Jul/09 with J.Baker

almost came off! lucky i did it when i did as it began to rain shortly after!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with WEALER!!

Clean ground up but blew the onsight arranging gear at the peg.
nblackbeard - Lead RP - 21/Jun/09 with Tom Grant

adamscottthomas - Lead β - 13/Jun/09 with Pete Saunders

felt easy having seconded it a week before
misterb - Lead rpt - 04/Apr/09 with sim

Gagool next :)
JonHarvey - Lead rpt - 03/Apr/09

Hidden - TR β - 03/Apr/09

approximate data
raku - Lead β - 01/Feb/09 with Jerome Taylor

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jan/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Dec/08

Tagged Pitch 2 of Gagool onto this.
briar4012 - 2nd dog - 23/Dec/08 with Pete

Awsome route first E1!!! Fell off it 2 weeks befor hand because of stupid ideas of climbing in the wet.
Jack_F - Lead rpt - 29/Nov/08 with Bob foley

1st E1 :) Rest before the crux. Climbed as one pitch as in the SD + D guide book.
JonHarvey - Lead dog - 24/Sep/08

dmoir - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/08 with Jon Harvey

lovely moves between pockets- got pretty pumped in the calves while placing though. got benighted on the second pitch and ran away. the piton abseil was worrying.grand evening out
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with neighbour martin

tskelhon - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with John_Warner

Got well pumped and had to hang on the rope at the start.
Popkids - 2nd - 28/Jun/08 with Pete Saunders & Baz

Steerpike - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/08 with Huw

P1 only. Fell off the start on first attempt.
quadmyre - Lead RP - 06/Jun/08 with Rich

Jon_Warner - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/08 with Tom

Fluffed up clipping the peg at 5m, so lost the O/S.Result of not tradding for 6 months! Good route done in 1 pitch. Careful with top pitch as there is a large section of very loose rock.
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 04/Apr/08 with Sarah Warner

sam coward - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Rupe and Wayne

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Feb/08

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/08 with Tommo

sharmawho? - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave

Hidden - Lead - 2008

JeromeT - Lead O/S - 2008

richardr - Lead β - Sep/07

misterb - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/07 with sim and dave

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/07 with sim

francois - 2nd - Apr/07 with Ben

climber sim - 2007

biffyat8 - 2007 with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

nopants - 2nd - 2007 with Rob

damp
jade Edwards Leaney - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/06 with vaughan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/06

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

chris j - Lead - 2005

Ben1983 - Lead rpt - Jul/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/02

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/00 with jim

jmhood - Lead O/S - 2000 with Wayne Miller

pmot - 1994

sdht - 1994

Climbed p1. Described as "Gagool Varaition" in the 83/85 guide.
Pete Nugent - 12/Feb/89 with Simon Jackson

My original logbook records it as HVS 5a!! I now think it is tough at E1 5b to place the gear without grabbing the peg. Led the direct start Dream On (5C) onsight 18/2/85. Soloed it 24/4/88.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/83 with Wendy Goodyer

Ena - 2nd - Jul/83 with Mark Courtiour

Hidden - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, petecallaghan, Master Chief, Will Hodges, Phil79, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 55
hard E20 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E12 of 19
E117 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS0 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard 5c0 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c0 of 18
hard 5b6 of 18
5b9 of 18
easy 5b0 of 18
hard 5a3 of 18
5a0 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
3 Stars0 of 18
2 Stars14 of 18
1 Star4 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead58 of 103 (56.3%)
Followed22 of 103 (21.4%)
Toproped9 of 103 (8.7%)
Alt Leads4 of 103 (3.9%)
Unknown10 of 103 (9.7%)

'Climbed'30 of 103 (29.1%)
clean O/S38 of 103 (36.9%)
clean β8 of 103 (7.8%)
clean rpt13 of 103 (12.6%)
clean RP6 of 103 (5.8%)
dogged8 of 103 (7.8%)