Gagool** E1 5b
[Nick on Gagool Direct, 4 kb]2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fingery exercise on excellent rock that requires a determined approach. Start just left of the arete below an old ring peg at 5m.
1) 5b, 17m. Gain the peg and some good small wires just above. Traverse left with difficulty for 5m on small holds to an easing at a thin vertical crack. Climb the crack and move rightwards to a large belay ledge. A good and slightly easier alternative (Logic 5b) moves up right from the old ring peg onto the blunt arete and follows the arete to the large belay ledge.
2) 5a, 16m. Move up and stand on a block on the left, peg. Step right into an open groove and climb it past some poor rock and a very wobbly but keyed-in small block to finish on easier ground. © ROCKFAX


FA. I. McMorrin 1965

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Nick on Gagool Direct © Justin T
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 136 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/15 with Ferdia

ferdia - 2nd - 29/Jul/15 with Andy

gear beta.felt nervy..but foot holds get better as traverse pfogresses
alice fuller - Lead β - 26/May/15

Brian H - 2nd rpt - 24/May/15 with Kafoozalem

nickdonohue - 2nd - 15/May/15 with Andy Bisson

andy_pemberton - Lead - 22/Apr/15

snook - 2nd β - 07/Mar/15 with stephen ashworth

stephen ashworth - Lead - 07/Mar/15 with Alex cox

Rory Bascombe - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Tom Newberry

Great route, love it!
OllieF - AltLd RP - 28/Aug/14 with Ant

Lee_Meaden - Lead β - 09/Jul/14 with James Laws

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/14

P1 only as P2 didn't inspire :o)
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Gareth Greeves

Slipped twice and came flying off!
gg4419 - 2nd dog - 04/May/14 with Nick Stephens

tobydunford - 2nd dog - Apr/14 with Harry Martin

Dawlish - 2nd - 24/Feb/14 with Bristoldave

lawsy_boy1 - Lead - 2014

Tom D - Lead - 2014

alice_loudon - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/13 with Mungo, Geoff

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Jimbo

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/13

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Daz

ferdia - Lead dog - 04/Jul/13 with Hertha

Lovely. P1 only.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 03/Jul/13 with Sarah Massey

metal arms - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

joedoherty - Lead dog - 04/May/13 with Mike Irving

LDJ - Lead - 07/Apr/13 with Lou

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/13

Got to peg, got pumped sorting gear and looking for holds, down climbed and then did it in one. The traverse is brilliant, shame the feet are a bit polished.
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Callum

callum brown - 2nd - 02/Feb/13 with Rich

Nick Biven - 2013

Got just above the peg then backed off after a fall, next time :)
arandall - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/12 with Wendy Matthews

lead p2
EmilyElouise - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/12

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with AlexD

AlexD - 2nd - 18/Jun/12 with Ed

Mr Powly - Lead - 02/Jun/12 with Chris Wall

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/12 with Sam Hann

sam.hann - AltLd - 17/Apr/12 with Davebryant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/12

davenev - 17/Feb/12 with luke

Bit of a whipper on this one, came off unexpetedly at end of the traverse and had to lift my legs
Mr Tickle - Lead dog - 17/Feb/12 with davenev

backed off a year ago. Felt smooth on lead today. First pitch only.
Ed morris - Lead - 02/Feb/12 with ewan

burto - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/12 with jerome

Ian Hughes - 2012

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 05/Oct/11 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/11 with Toby

brilliant route, pockets and a continental feel
RossT - TR - 01/Oct/11 with Andrew Edwards

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/11

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Mike Hayes

MH123 - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/11 with Jack Folland

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 16/Jul/11

just one more - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/11 with tony l, Svenn G

amazing climb! the best i have ever climbed.
Aaron Phillips - TR O/S - 28/May/11 with my dad

chris j - Lead rpt - 07/May/11 with Ben Bradford

tom169 - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Jerome

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11

P2 clean o/s
JonHarvey - AltLd - 21/Mar/11 with Jay Jackson

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Harry

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11

crimpy69 - TR β - 08/Jan/11

Led P1
Sam W - AltLd - 25/Oct/10 with Nick Wheldon

left the hard first pitch to sam...
nopants - AltLd - 25/Oct/10 with Sam W

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Oct/10

jellyfish82 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10

JonBrown - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Tiff

TiffTiff - 2nd β - 04/Sep/10 with Jon Brown

benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead β - 31/Jul/10

Stepped one move from logic on a prev attempt and bailed. Saw a friend lead it and saw holds abbing off after Chudleigh O'hang ... Awesome! 1st pitch only.
JonHarvey - Lead β - 30/May/10 with James Langridge

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

thomb - Lead - May/10

nblackbeard - Lead RP - 30/Jan/10 with Gemma Foster

Unfinished business
nblackbeard - Lead dog - 12/Dec/09 with Hartmut Erzgraber

adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/09 with jack folland

good tec little climb
37degrees - Lead RP - 28/Jul/09 with J.Baker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/09

sinbad - Lead - 07/May/09 with Pete

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Max hodges

tricky traverse left to the crack.
misterb - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/09 with sim

mike88 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Dave Powlesland

MH123 - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with Jack Folland

Led 2nd pitch
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Kafoozalem

misterb - 2nd - 04/Apr/09 with sim

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/08

Got it clean second time round.
Justin T - Lead RP - 25/Jul/08 with Rich

Justin T - Lead dog - 22/Jul/08 with Crispin

richardr - AltLd RP - Jun/08

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

sharmawho? - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave

Hidden - 2008

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/07

tonanf - 2nd - Jun/07 with james

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/06 with Chris Todd

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 26/Feb/06 with Nic Dill

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

JeromeT - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jul/05

chris j - Lead - 2005

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Mar/03

jmhood - Lead O/S - 2003 with Richard Everson

Roget - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/00

CraigMac1 - 2000

colin milton - Lead - 10/Aug/95 with eric milton

leadmat - Lead - Jul/95

Polished 1st pitch, 2nd a bit mental with lots of undergrowth all the wayup the overhanging groove
ellie macpherson - Lead O/S - Jul/95 with Bob Smith

tuftynick - Lead - 1995 with ben winston

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/94

kristian - Lead - 28/Feb/94

pmot - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/90

Mickdenali - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1989

Climbes as "Gagool Original", as described in the 83/85 guide
Pete Nugent - Lead - 20/Jul/88

davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

Ena - Lead β - Mar/85

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/85

DDDD - 1985

shark - Lead dog - 21/Apr/84 with Minky

steve L - 2nd - 04/Apr/83 with Alun Richardson

mark-abz - Lead - Jun/81 with Dave S

Hidden - 1981

babymoac - Lead - 16/Aug/80 with MTW

Steve Bell - 1979

D Tempest - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/78

Simon cook - 1978

Simon cook - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
frostage, callum brown, Ropeboy, petecallaghan, Master Chief, RandomHero, mike88

Voting
Total votes cast 86
hard E20 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E24 of 28
hard E111 of 28
E113 of 28
easy E10 of 28
hard HVS0 of 28
HVS0 of 28
easy HVS0 of 28
hard 5c0 of 29
5c0 of 29
easy 5c3 of 29
hard 5b8 of 29
5b18 of 29
easy 5b0 of 29
hard 5a0 of 29
5a0 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
3 Stars1 of 29
2 Stars23 of 29
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Bag of .....0 of 29
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