2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fingery exercise on excellent rock that requires a determined approach. Start just left of the arete below an old ring peg at 5m.
1) 5b, 17m. Gain the peg and some good small wires just above. Traverse left with difficulty for 5m on small holds to an easing at a thin vertical crack. Climb the crack and move rightwards to a large belay ledge. A good and slightly easier alternative (Logic 5b) moves up right from the old ring peg onto the blunt arete and follows the arete to the large belay ledge.
2) 5a, 16m. Move up and stand on a block on the left, peg. Step right into an open groove and climb it past some poor rock and a very wobbly but keyed-in small block to finish on easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. I. McMorrin 1965

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Hidden 12/Oct Lead O/S
Doug miller 12/Oct 2nd
Doug miller 29/Sep Lead rpt
with Alex Rowe
LanceSolf 11/Sep Lead β
with Duncan Potts
Jackislav 11/Sep Lead O/S

1 pitch, cool route, progressively more uninspiring towards the top

Andy Moles 29/Jul Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 29/Jul 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 05/Jul 2nd
alice fuller 26/May Lead β

gear beta.felt nervy..but foot holds get better as traverse pfogresses

Brian H 24/May 2nd rpt
nickdonohue 15/May 2nd
with Andy Bisson
andy_pemberton 22/Apr Lead
snook 07/Mar 2nd β
stephen ashworth 07/Mar Lead
with Alex cox
Hidden ??/2015 -
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 Lead O/S
Rory Bascombe 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Newberry
OllieF 28/Aug/14 AltLd RP

Great route, love it!

with Ant
Lee_Meaden 09/Jul/14 Lead β
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd
nickstephens 04/May/14 Lead O/S

P1 only as P2 didn't inspire :o)

gg4419 04/May/14 2nd dog

Slipped twice and came flying off!

tobydunford ?/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Harry Martin
Dawlish 24/Feb/14 2nd
lawsy_boy1 ??/2014 Lead
Tom D ??/2014 Lead
alice_loudon 07/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Mungo, Geoff
paultaylor 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Jimbo
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Dan 85 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Daz
ferdia 04/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Hertha
andy_pemberton 03/Jul/13 Lead

Lovely. P1 only.

with Sarah Massey
metal arms 27/May/13 Lead O/S
joedoherty 04/May/13 Lead dog
with Mike Irving
LDJ 07/Apr/13 Lead
with Lou
Hidden ?/Mar/13 AltLd
Luxulyan 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Got to peg, got pumped sorting gear and looking for holds, down climbed and then did it in one. The traverse is brilliant, shame the feet are a bit polished.

with Callum
callum brown 02/Feb/13 2nd
with Rich
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
arandall 08/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Got just above the peg then backed off after a fall, next time :)

EmilyElouise 23/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

lead p2

Hidden 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 18/Jun/12 2nd
with Ed
Mr Powly 02/Jun/12 Lead
Davebryant 17/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
sam.hann 17/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
davenev 17/Feb/12 -
with luke
Mr Tickle 17/Feb/12 Lead dog

Bit of a whipper on this one, came off unexpetedly at end of the traverse and had to lift my legs

with davenev
Ed morris 02/Feb/12 Lead

backed off a year ago. Felt smooth on lead today. First pitch only.

with ewan
burto 10/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with jerome
Ian Hughes ??/2012 -
Toby Dunn 05/Oct/11 2nd
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 05/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
RossT 01/Oct/11 TR

brilliant route, pockets and a continental feel

with Andrew Edwards
Hidden 11/Sep/11 2nd
Mr Sparkle 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
MH123 30/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/11 2nd β
just one more 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with tony l, Svenn G
Aaron Phillips 28/May/11 TR O/S

amazing climb! the best i have ever climbed.

with my dad
chris j 07/May/11 Lead rpt
with Ben Bradford
tom169 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jerome
Hidden 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
JonHarvey 21/Mar/11 AltLd

P2 clean o/s

Bristoldave 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Harry
Hidden 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
crimpy69 08/Jan/11 TR β
Sam W 25/Oct/10 AltLd

Led P1

nopants 25/Oct/10 AltLd

left the hard first pitch to sam...

with Sam W
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
jellyfish82 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
JonBrown 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tiff
TiffTiff 04/Sep/10 2nd β
benkelsey 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead β
JonHarvey 30/May/10 Lead β

Stepped one move from logic on a prev attempt and bailed. Saw a friend lead it and saw holds abbing off after Chudleigh O'hang ... Awesome! 1st pitch only.

pezzerrr 02/May/10 Lead O/S
thomb ?/May/10 Lead
nblackbeard 30/Jan/10 Lead RP
nblackbeard 12/Dec/09 Lead dog

Unfinished business

with Hartmut Erzgraber
adam cooper*super* 27/Oct/09 Lead O/S
37degrees 28/Jul/09 Lead RP

good tec little climb

with J.Baker
Hidden 13/Jul/09 Lead O/S
sinbad 07/May/09 Lead
with Pete
Jack_F 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Max hodges
misterb 13/Apr/09 Lead rpt

tricky traverse left to the crack.

with sim
mike88 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Powlesland
MH123 05/Apr/09 2nd
adamscottthomas 04/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

misterb 04/Apr/09 2nd
with sim
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Justin T 25/Jul/08 Lead RP

Got it clean second time round.

with Rich
Justin T 22/Jul/08 Lead dog
with Crispin
richardr ?/Jun/08 AltLd RP
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
sharmawho? ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
Hidden ??/2008 -
Dave Searle 21/Sep/07 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Jun/07 2nd
with james
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
nathanmanc 02/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Mark Kemball 26/Feb/06 2nd
with Nic Dill
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
JeromeT ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Ben1983 ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
chris j ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 15/Mar/03 Lead RP
jmhood ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Richard Everson
Roget 04/Jun/00 Lead O/S
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
colin milton 10/Aug/95 Lead
with eric milton
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
ellie macpherson ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S

Polished 1st pitch, 2nd a bit mental with lots of undergrowth all the wayup the overhanging groove

with Bob Smith
tuftynick ??/1995 Lead
with ben winston
Hidden 16/Jul/94 Lead O/S
kristian 28/Feb/94 Lead
pmot ??/1994 -
jcw ?/Mar/92 -
with John Walters
Hidden 15/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Pete Nugent 20/Jul/88 Lead

Climbes as "Gagool Original", as described in the 83/85 guide

davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Ena ?/Mar/85 Lead β
Hidden 16/Feb/85 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1985 -
shark 21/Apr/84 Lead dog
with Minky
steve L 04/Apr/83 2nd
with Alun Richardson
mark-abz ?/Jun/81 Lead
with Dave S
Nevil ??/1981 -

Do not know year

babymoac 16/Aug/80 Lead
with MTW
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
frostage, Hidden, callum brown, Ropeboy, Hidden, petecallaghan, Master Chief, Hidden, RandomHero, mike88
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set