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Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The striking arete is as good as it looks. Protection from small wires is ample and the climbing is technical and sustained. Start up the slope just right of the arete.
1) 5b, 21m. Move leftwards up the wall to the arete and climb its right-hand side for 9m. Make a perplexing few moves up and then left to an easing at a whitish scoop, good small wires. Move right and make a stiff pull to undercuts and a peg above. Easier climbing finishes at a ledge and bolt belay.
2) 11m. Climb easy ground to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Biven 1962.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
chris j 21 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Take lots of small wires (0 - 2), there's more gear than it looks from the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take lots of small wires (0 - 2), there's more gear than it looks from the ground.

Logged Ascents

411 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 46 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 71
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 68
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Aviation/Rhinoceros

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Haytor)

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