Oesophagus*** E1 5b
[Oesophagus  , 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The bending hand-crack in the overhanging white wall to the right of the corner of Sarcophagus is a great test of jamming technique and perseverance. Start beneath the crack.
Gain the overhanging hand-crack and push on to a rest in a roof-capped niche. Pull out right and climb up and left to join the finishing corner of Sarcophagus. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Standard Devon HVS sandbag, or E1 for northerners ;)

FA. B.Biven 1962

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Oesophagus © Anna
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 182 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

excellent route despite the polish, still worth 3* imo
dbrooks - Lead G/U - 23/Aug/15 with Ben, Gareth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/15

Brian H - Lead rpt - 17/May/15 with Kafoozalem

petecallaghan - TR rpt - 06/May/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/15

10/4/15. Finally! A good route.
Ben Russell - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/15 with Jacob Straw

James Oswald - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/15 with Andy Moles

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Ferdia

ferdia - 2nd - 07/Mar/15 with Andy

will be back to lead at some point
dbrooks - 2nd O/S - 25/Jan/15 with Jack

Took a lob at the end of the strenuous climbing, lowered, pulled the ropes and led through, really fun route!
supersouthward - 25/Jan/15 with Derwood

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Jan/15

Hidden - 2015

Pumpfest, brought back my tendonitis! Excellent.
OllieF - TR RP - 28/Dec/14 with Davina, PeteG, Martin

youwillfindjimbo - Lead dog - 30/Nov/14 with Dan Ely

Straightforward. Partner declined to follow
edinbed - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/14

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Oct/14

Great route ***
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/14

Lee_Meaden - Lead RP - 16/Aug/14 with Luke Robinson

Ewan Russell - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Tom Nichols

DredStripe - Lead dog - 12/Jun/14

Classic climb! Excellent moves following taking in right sided crack up to LEDGE. From here you can finish into combat and lower off from in-situ gear. For the adventurous carry on into Sarcophagus until you top out. On the send list.
Ben Russell - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14 with Tom Newberry

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/14

nickstephens - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14 with Gareth Greeves

Fell twice but then did clean from the ground with gear clipped in crack.
gg4419 - Lead dog - 04/May/14 with Nick Stephens

tobydunford - 2nd β - 15/Mar/14 with Harry Martin

Nick Biven - 2014

Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13 with RusseyB

grp - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/13 with mungo nash

Just a couple of jams. Pretty steep she be.
R2B - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13 with Charlotte

theloringharvey - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Katherine Durtnell

Warm and slippy.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 23/Jul/13 with Sarah Massey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13

Hung to remove walked cam.
gg4419 - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/13 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - Lead dog - 01/Jun/13 with richard climber, marija, Gareth Greeves

Slippy in the sun
danJBA - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with James Hoar

Luxulyan - 2nd β - 18/May/13 with Dan S

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Dean Merchant

Like climbing on marble.
Dean177 - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Alan Dibben

climberkayaker - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Dec/12

bencoope - Lead - 08/Dec/12 with tom wheeler

Led half of first pitch. Slipped on polish. Seconded after Bens lead.
tomwheeler - 2nd - 08/Dec/12 with bencoope

Tom Seccombe - Lead rpt - 08/Dec/12 with Harvey

Mike W - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Aug/12

Davebryant - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Sam Hann

sam.hann - 2nd - Aug/12 with Davebryant

mark schramm - Lead dog - 27/Jun/12 with Dave C

Such a good climb, a prober crack climb classic
Hinchrn - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Matt Rust

Good climbing, didn't have to employ much jamming, lots of good holds. Good rest in the niche too.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Tom Hinch

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 24/Jun/12

Bloody powerful...
Kayan - Lead dog - 24/Jun/12 with David Brock

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 08/May/12 with Ian B

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/12 with stuart

burto - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/12 with jerome

Toby Dunn - Lead - 15/Nov/11

Got pumped early on and had to have a rest on the steep bit.
mark schramm - Lead dog - 13/Nov/11 with chawn

AlistairB - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Bjorn

Hidden - TR dnf - 08/Nov/11

Brian H - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/11 with Kafoozalem, Rik

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 22/Oct/11 with Dave L, tom m

tommoulds - TR - 22/Oct/11 with Schramm

Got pumped out. Fx and I alternately tried to lead this. It was a dog fest! Embarrassing really! Fx completed lead in the end and I seconded (clean).
BelayBunney - 2nd RP - 08/Oct/11 with Francois

Total pumpfest!!! Had to sit in twice due to getting exploded placing gear. Jamming helps. Southern grades are normally soft but this was tricky! Not Belgium's finest hour!!!
francois - Lead dog - 08/Oct/11 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/11

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Mike Hayes

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

quiet fun climb not to tricky was very tied when tried want to try again
zachbassett10 - TR dnf - Sep/11 with tom baker

Got pumped placing gear, had to crawl in to the niche! One day...
Richy boy - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11

mark schramm - TR dog - 26/Jun/11

Duncan Turner - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

richardr - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 26/May/11 with Jim Higgins

jameshiggins - 2nd O/S - 26/May/11 with Neil Adams

Old bete noir put to bed. Actually quite pleasant climbing!
Justin T - Lead rpt - 07/May/11 with Cherry

Liam FLeming - Lead - 29/Apr/11

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Special Robin

Dogged 3 rests on the diagonal. Pretty weak but only 2nd limestone trad lead so I'm over it.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dog - 14/Apr/11 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Apr/11

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 04/Apr/11 with nick arding

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/11 with Dave C

Hidden - TR - 30/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Mar/11

John Tanner - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/11 with Sarp Akcay

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jan/11

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Oct/10

Hidden - TR - 17/Oct/10

Tom Seccombe - Lead dog - 16/Oct/10 with tj murry

Hung around too long on the lower step section. Arms got completely pumped.
mark schramm - Lead dog - 13/Oct/10 with steve P

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/10 with Mick Ward

MH123 - TR rpt - 17/Sep/10 with Adam Cooper, Jack Folland

Richard Horn - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10

La Mont - 30/Aug/10 with Rich Horn

steep, not a good warm up!!
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

stayed dry in the pouring rain.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with nick

Nice route, hard work. Felt very slimy, espec at bottom. A limestone jamming crack that is not over-graded, even at E1 as given in WCC book.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10

mark schramm - TR - Jul/10 with steve P

defo E1
adam cooper*super* - Lead - 21/Jun/10 with jack folland

Sustained Jug pulling, Retro Flash.
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Harry

cem - 2nd - 05/Apr/10 with Graham Dolman

very steep polished and pumpy
Quarryboy - TR dog - 03/Apr/10 with UCR youth squad

Popkids - 2nd dog - 27/Mar/10 with Nolan

chris j - Lead - 07/Mar/10 with Ben Bradford

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 2010

nickdonohue - Lead - 2010 with Martin ?

Hidden - TR rpt - 27/Oct/09

far too sustained for hvs ,def e1
misterb - Lead rpt - 25/Oct/09 with simon, wain

jbulger - 2nd - 24/Sep/09 with Will Pettet Smith

hard! failed on it before but pressed on this time. pretty steep and protecting it properly pumps you reet out. glad to have ticked it.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 24/Sep/09 with jo

Pretty sure this gets E1...
porridgefan - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/09

tom169 - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/09 with Laura

MH123 - TR rpt - Jun/09 with Jack Folland

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with adam cooper* super*

Steerpike - Lead dog - 02/Apr/09 with Huw

approximate date
raku - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Jerome Taylor, Beata Rakowska

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Dec/08

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/08

tom169 - Lead dog - 16/Apr/08 with Laura

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

misterb - 2nd rpt - 04/Jan/08 with dave

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

sharmawho? - TR RP - 2008 with shunted

Steerpike - Lead β - 25/Oct/07 with Mark

AJH - 2nd dog - 19/Aug/07 with Crispin

Damn it I WILL do this clean one day!
Justin T - Lead dog - 19/May/07 with Wifey

Brutal. Will go back to try this again with a better game-plan.
Justin T - Lead dnf - 04/May/07 with Martin

Bit too pumpy for HVS, bearing in mind this is nearly 10 degrees steeper than otherwise similar HVS fare at Millstone, and due to a weird fiddly fist crack is probably best done with a tasty run out up as in the photo taken in the SD+D guide if a comprehensive set of cams is unavailable. Harder than Aviation at any rate
Paz - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with SB

climber sim - 2007

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

sebrider - Lead dog - 2007 with Roby Rudolf

vaughansc - 2007

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/May/06

shoulders - Lead - 14/Apr/06 with dai

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 26/Feb/06 with Nic Dill

jake-jones - 2nd β - 2006

jmhood - Lead RP - 2006 with Wayne Miller

chris j - Lead - Feb/05

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2005

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/04 with Simon Howe

northerngreg - 2nd dog - 2001

Roget - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/00 with jim

andy_pemberton - Lead - 1998

nacnud - Lead - 16/Nov/96

colin milton - 2nd - 10/Aug/95 with eric milton

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Jul/95 with Lee Bartrop

leadmat - Lead - Jul/95

pmot - 1994

sdht - 1994

kristian - Lead - Nov/93

JBallard - TR O/S - May/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/90

Roget - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/90 with jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/90

Hidden - 1990

Mickdenali - Lead - 1990

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 02/May/88 with Jon Clifford-Smith

davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

ChrisJD - Lead - 22/Nov/87

Hammy - Lead - 10/Feb/85 with Colin Struthers, Dave Johnston

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Dec/84

mark-abz - 2nd - 31/Oct/79 with Jonti F

Steve Bell - 1979

D Tempest - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/78

Simon cook - 1978

Simon cook - 1974

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 22/Apr/73

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jamiet297, iceaxejuggler, Dilwat, Cheese Monkey, MrWiggles, Alan100, petecallaghan, Master Chief, mustdobetter, jonnyridleylogan, Ben Sherriff, Richard Morgan, grumpyoldjanner, henbot, northnorthnorth, Robfromcornwall

Total votes cast 155
hard E20 of 58
E20 of 58
easy E20 of 58
hard E11 of 58
E19 of 58
easy E144 of 58
hard HVS2 of 58
HVS2 of 58
easy HVS0 of 58
hard 5c0 of 51
5c0 of 51
easy 5c1 of 51
hard 5b2 of 51
5b33 of 51
easy 5b9 of 51
hard 5a4 of 51
5a2 of 51
easy 5a0 of 51
3 Stars17 of 46
2 Stars27 of 46
1 Star1 of 46
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP