Rockfax Description
A great little route with a big reputation - best not attempted in humid conditions when the polish will make it feel a whole grade harder. Start at a corner-crack 5m left of the cave entrance.
Climb the slick corner-crack to a large ledge at 3m. Place some bomber wires and pull steeply up the wall then rock up left onto the steep slab. Continue up the fine steep corner directly above and pull onto a large ledge. Belay possible. Move up easily leftwards before climbing directly to the top. © Rockfax

FA. E.Rayson 1961

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Lyndsay Superclimber 15/Nov Lead O/S
with Mark S
Adam Hill 31/Oct TR

SPA assessment

wilsers 04/Oct 2nd dog

Followed Alex with none of his style! Had a hang on the rope to get around the bulge at 3metres up. Rest of the route was fine.

with Alex Roberts
ray.allwood 30/Sep 2nd O/S
AEH 25/Sep 2nd
with Christian Mertes
Benjaminblanc 19/Sep Lead O/S

Went left and under the bulge which made it easier... Still a good warm up but not quite the full tick. Directly over the bulge is no doubt hard for HS.

with Joe Andrews, Jonathan Axford
hairy51 19/Sep 2nd
10029759 19/Sep Lead
Will7777 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Ryan Hewkin
ryan RM 17/Jul 2nd dog
Lumbering Oaf 13/Jul 2nd
spragglerocks 13/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul 2nd
DCIGadget 08/Jul Lead rpt

this was at the edge of my ability. at one stage I had to wedge my head against the rock to stop myself falling.

with Lindsey, Liam
nickdonohue 15/May Lead
with Andy Bisson
Hidden 04/May Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr Lead O/S
Skip 12/Apr 2nd rpt
jamie ward 12/Apr Lead O/S
with Mick
adamkidson 11/Apr Lead O/S
cem 06/Apr 2nd

Hard! Conditions didn't help.

Kirill 06/Apr Lead O/S
chris ebbutt 01/Apr Lead
with Emma
Hidden 01/Apr 2nd
Sean Kelly 01/Apr 2nd
with Chris Ebbutt, Emma Grant
Chrismaccers ?/Apr Lead
Hidden 23/Mar AltLd RP
LanceSolf 22/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb Lead
twill 17/Jan Lead O/S
mattcoleman 17/Jan 2nd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 11/Jan Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 11/Jan 2nd
Ben Russell 05/Jan 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jan Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
suds_01 ??/2015 -
Hidden 09/Nov/14 2nd
ManxClimber 21/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 16/Jul/14 Lead


with Sarah Massey
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/14 2nd
Darrell Read 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/14 2nd rpt
Chaman 21/May/14 Lead rpt

Finally did crux clean on lead!

with David Llewellyn, Alex H
OllieF 15/May/14 Lead O/S

Unbelievably polished start, fun climb once you gain the ledge though!

Hidden 05/May/14 2nd O/S
Rafal Malczyk 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Efe Tunc
Robin Brooke ?/May/14 Lead
darcan 24/Apr/14 Lead
bedmaster_3000 16/Apr/14 TR O/S

Think we climbed in between this and Barn Owl Crack, we def didn't touch Barn Owl Crack, but we must have touched a few of the polished holds on Reek.

with Brandon Hutchinson, Dan Craig
Lee_Meaden 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Chris dyer 13/Apr/14 TR
with Owen Tomlinson, Jodie pointer, chris ayles
peter.ravenscroft27 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lovely continuous HS climbing, well protected the whole way. polished on the crux tho slippy slippy feet.

with Dad
Robin Woodward ?/Apr/14 Lead

Originally thought to try Twang, but couldn't work out the gear on the slab so left it and moved onto this. Nice climb, with the moves up left off the ledge being the crux due to polish. Numb Fingers.

bedmaster_3000 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
climbhannahclimb 09/Mar/14 2nd β
with Mark Barrett
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/14 Lead
10029759 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
paultaylor 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Jimbo
Tim W 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
leerybunny 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
R2B 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Not sure if i got the start right, mono??

with Charlotte
Dale Turrell 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Charlie
ClareG 25/Aug/13 2nd
Marktrin 01/Aug/13 2nd dog

Seconded first pitch & dogged at the big bulge. Led second pitch easily, which was a delight. Would say the 2nd pitch was just a VD.

with Phil
phil456 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I lead first pitch, Mark the second. crux at bulge is polished.

with Mark G
Hidden 03/Jul/13 2nd
Matt Amos 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
berry6717 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Hannah Berry
Skip 31/May/13 2nd rpt

Going to log this as Reek, although was more like a Leek/Reek eliminate.Or may have been Spearhead?

with lanky
lanky 31/May/13 Lead
with Skip
Chris dyer 26/May/13 TR β
EllieWoods 21/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jono
Skip 19/May/13 2nd rpt
with Brenden
Hidden 18/May/13 TR O/S
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
s.thursz 13/May/13 2nd
Hidden 10/May/13 2nd
ekneba 06/May/13 TR O/S

Anchor and belayer were at top. A lot of the foot holds are very polished and slippery. Great climb for a novice climber like myself.

londonoring 06/May/13 TR

Started on Twang (E1) next door but some confusion got me onto Reek and finishing here. Was a fun climb.

Chris dyer 06/May/13 2nd β
with Ant, Lauren Davies
Hidden 02/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead O/S
martin clarke 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with nick andrews, john frost
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Skip 28/Apr/13 AltLd
Chris dyer 27/Apr/13 TR β
with Stephen Dyer
Steve Lenartowicz 23/Apr/13 Lead
with Clare
chrisdevon 22/Apr/13 2nd
Chris dyer 19/Apr/13 TR RP
JonHarvey 16/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Lewis Tucker, Tom Crowther
Hidden 02/Apr/13 2nd O/S
josh.sims ?/Apr/13 TR dog
Kemics 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

retro-flash (seconded Jon a few years ago). Cold!

with Mel
gjh 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Jamiet297 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

First HS :)

with Stuart Fox, Sarah Welsh
Sarah Welsh 17/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with Jamie Trump, Stuart Fox
burto 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
MrWiggles ??/2013 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
Mike W 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 19/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Oct/12 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead
Cheese Monkey 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Needed about 100 more wires! Excellent climb.

with Goss
Graham Jenkins ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Adam Clasper
MarcT 31/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Very hard move over bulge from 3m ledge (4c-5a?). UKC description goes just left of bulge, into groove instead - much more like 4b territory.

with Duncan S
Chris dyer 11/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Sam Hackney
Adamcommando ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/12 2nd
alexporter 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Bit nervous at start, but bashed it out. Easy second half.

markfromstoke 20/Jun/12 -
with Ian
ian d f 20/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Mark
alastairbegley 08/Jun/12 Lead O/S
MBano 06/Jun/12 Lead β
with Pete
petecallaghan 06/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Matt
DOVEY 21/May/12 -

Teaching day

with Dan & Alice
Shynnagh 18/May/12 Lead O/S

Good climb but very polished. There's a jackdaw nest at the top to watch out for.

Hidden 02/May/12 Lead O/S
hamishclimb 27/Mar/12 TR
Hidden 21/Mar/12 AltLd
ClimberTony 01/Mar/12 TR O/S
KDhruev 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
JackHatton 23/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with dan devey
davenev 17/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with luke
Mr Tickle 17/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with davenev
Ed morris 02/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with ewan
ewanthomson 02/Feb/12 Lead O/S
JRSB1991 ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 28/Jan/12 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 22/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jan/12 2nd
HarryB 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
aipattison 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

In the wet was very slippery!

with UBMC
mike hooper 29/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

robin led. me second THINK its had more traffic than the M1 motorway

with robin frazer
MBarraclough 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Sarah Welsh 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead β
Chaman 21/Sep/11 2nd β
DOVEY 29/Aug/11 -
with Liza
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
jhawton 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S
MarcT ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Twelve pieces of gear used. Finished up wall to the right with tree belay.

nmott ?/Jul/11 2nd
MBarraclough 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
marcduhig 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
lizzie789 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
pedro.silva 30/May/11 TR O/S

Not sure if i actually climbed this as i din't find the guide very clear.

with Caz, Hugo and Ana
Nexonen 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Gideon
Eike 20/May/11 Lead
Hidden 20/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd rpt
hcaw 14/May/11 2nd O/S

v. polished

martin one 14/May/11 Lead
with Tony Ward
Hidden 11/May/11 2nd
BelayBunney 11/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
lewiz 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Polished. Didn't trust my feet on any of the obvious holds; climbed the line in a harder fashion as a result. Bag of....

Slick 08/Apr/11 Lead
Egons Issy 08/Apr/11 2nd
with Joe Bone AMC, Richard Nicholson
Hidden 04/Apr/11 Lead
climbhannahclimb 04/Apr/11 TR
sammoore 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Ivan Holroyd
nick hawkins 01/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Jez
jezb1 01/Apr/11 Lead
Chaman 30/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Went left to start of Leek by mistake before crossing back to Reek - doh!

petecallaghan 30/Mar/11 2nd
with Chaman
timreynolds 30/Mar/11 2nd
with Chaman
Tom_Page 11/Mar/11 Lead β

Polished in places (like much of Chudleigh).

with Mike
Joe Richards 04/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead rpt
mrstarwarsman 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/10 2nd O/S
francois 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tammy
little_tammy 22/Sep/10 2nd O/S
feilx 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
JonBrown 04/Sep/10 2nd
with Tiff
TiffTiff 04/Sep/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
arandall 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Isaac Whitcombe
mark schramm 29/Aug/10 2nd
with tom m
tommoulds 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Schramm
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Gilster 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Pierre Maxted 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S

w/K and David Ll. Got lost in the woods in the dark on the way back!

Hidden 26/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Pero 16/Jul/10 Lead
matheub ?/Jul/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 15/Jun/10 2nd
langar27 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Homes 02/Jun/10 2nd
with Mike B
RandomHero 20/May/10 Lead O/S
tomwheeler 19/May/10 2nd
with Perm
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead
Frostie ?/May/10 Lead
with Roy Harris
Stephen kingston 24/Apr/10 TR
Neil Rigiani 21/Apr/10 TR O/S

Set up by Dave

argyle_dude 13/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led second pitch

grumpyoldjanner 13/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

3kidsandanorton 10/Apr/10 Lead
with Kay
Hidden 23/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Matt02003 ??/2010 Lead β
with James
jmhood ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
dereke12000 12/Dec/09 TR

Good climb

HJSmith 25/Oct/09 2nd
with Joe North
pezzerrr 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
r_findlay 29/Sep/09 2nd
cjweekes 19/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Ambrose Vevers, Will Vevers
sthame 29/Aug/09 2nd
Noodles 29/Aug/09 Lead

Polished but still fun. Led in 2 pitchs

Dizz 15/Aug/09 2nd
with Yvonne
Hidden 12/Aug/09 TR
mikelaing ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Carolyn
sam coward 25/Jul/09 2nd rpt
with Wayne and James
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Mancunianimport ?/Jun/09 Lead
BruceW 04/May/09 Lead O/S
with Becca
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
richardadventurecafe 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

proper polished at the bottom.... but excellent higher up - interesting route...

with Andy Owen
JonHarvey 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Surprisingly good climbing. Didnt notice polish tbh!?

with Chris Sawdon and Jayne Bulbeck
Hidden 03/Apr/09 2nd dog
bsavage 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Odd route but good fun but with a bit of polish went round and up LHS of the bulge the up LHS of nose

northnorthnorth 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Really, really polished. Lots of gear. Multi pitched it for multi pitch practice.

with Giles
MH123 12/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/09 2nd O/S
dzlhodgson 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Temela Maciel
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Jack_F ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Reeges 05/Nov/08 Lead O/S
marksrhodes 05/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Ben Rhodes
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Solo O/S
richardadventurecafe 15/Jul/08 Lead
with Richard Maxwell
adam cooper*super* ?/Jul/08 Lead dog
Popkids 28/Jun/08 Lead
with Kafoozalem
Hidden 26/Jun/08 TR
FayeG 10/Jun/08 2nd dnf

Foiled at the start by polish- but in fairness, I did have a broken ankle which kind of made things difficult

with Rory
ruaidh 10/Jun/08 Lead dog
with FayeG
Popkids 03/May/08 2nd
with Kafoozalem
tom169 16/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden 16/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Kate Edhouse 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with James Clapham
Pete Horn 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd dog
daraghpoynter 09/Feb/08 TR O/S
with meghann weiss
MH123 07/Feb/08 2nd
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
ijd201 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
nopants ??/2008 Lead
rh5980 20/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Horton
henbot 16/Dec/07 2nd O/S

good fun in the baltic weather!

with Sam Farnsworth
Hidden 25/Nov/07 2nd
misterb 23/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with steve
remilio 23/Oct/07 2nd dog
with Noxious
pss204 ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Blackbeard, Billy Mclennan
D Berry 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S

The polish, the polish...

with Claire Berry
sharmawho? 20/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
Noodles ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Bridget Benson
nikinko 26/Jun/07 2nd

Great route, nice combination of precise work and stronger moves. Not sure if I'm able to pull harder this summer, or have just learned not to need to! A bit unstable stepping around the nose, asked for a tight rope then realised that wasn't helpful in this case as it would just have pulled me off!

sam coward 18/May/07 TR rpt
with Helen
manwithacam 12/May/07 AltLd
with Martin
starfish 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S

polished and a little akward - short persons moves!

with old creaky
Dave Searle 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
viking56 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with JEH
Jon_Warner 05/Apr/07 2nd rpt
with Alekcs
Hidden 14/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 28/Jan/07 Lead β
with Martin & Crispin
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Jon Evans ??/2007 -
OliBoyes ??/2007 -
with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
COD*OF*ROCK ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/06 TR
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
ducle 13/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Two desperate moments and a wasps nest...

nienke 13/Aug/06 AltLd
with Duc
Dave Searle 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
jo86 26/Feb/06 Lead
Jon_Warner ??/2006 TR O/S
with Jack M
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/05 Lead
lighty ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Robby b
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead dog
richardr ?/Aug/05 -
JeromeT ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/04 Lead
sam coward 18/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Wayne
hayleylouise 17/Apr/04 2nd
Gibson27 ??/2004 2nd

Like climbing on glass!!

Hidden 12/Jul/03 2nd O/S
Marq 03/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Tim Brogden
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
darren1 18/Dec/02 -
Hidden ?/Aug/02 2nd
Ben1983 ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Samuel P 13/Apr/02 2nd
with Neil, Kevin
Hidden 13/Apr/02 AltLd
bazzag ??/2001 Lead
with james
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
Hidden 14/Nov/99 Lead O/S
jim_randell 11/Sep/99 2nd rpt
with PS
Hidden 03/Jul/98 Lead
markw ??/1997 2nd O/S
Dax 06/Apr/96 2nd O/S

Bulge at base required left left to placed high .. found this difficuly but managed it in the end.

JiveWeasel 24/Aug/95 -
Hidden 02/Aug/95 Lead O/S
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 14/May/95 2nd O/S
Dringo ??/1995 -
tuftynick ??/1995 Lead
with ben winston
timreynolds 12/Oct/94 Lead
with Pete Coulson
Neil R 30/Sep/94 Lead
with Sharon
Didymus 24/Apr/94 2nd O/S
with pete, Marcus
sdht ??/1994 -
kristian ?/Sep/93 Lead
colin milton ?/Jun/93 Lead
with eric milton
Rog Wilko ?/May/92 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Iain Thow 26/Jul/91 AltLd
with Rob Ivens
Hidden 31/Mar/91 Lead O/S
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
MoWalker3 16/Aug/89 AltLd
with Joe
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Hidden 25/May/85 Solo O/S
Ena ??/1983 -
Mike C 14/Nov/81 Lead
with Katrina Borowski
Mike C 04/Mar/81 Lead
with John Sockett
Mike C 04/Mar/81 Lead
with John Sockett
mark-abz 28/Apr/79 Lead
with Olly C
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Mike C 05/May/78 Lead
with Pete Vallely
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Mike C 22/Oct/77 2nd
with Dave Hyde
Simon cook ??/1974 -
Bolt Phobia 06/May/73 Lead
Hidden ??/1972 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
c jepps, Master Chief, Hidden, hcaw, Richard Morgan
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 47
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set