UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
The curving, slim groove high on the wall is one of the best limestone VSs in Britain. Start as for Jollies Route. Follow Jollies Route to a point above the overhang at the start of its second pitch, then move up to a crack at the bottom left of the blank grey and white wall. Make a technical traverse right to the base of the slim curving groove and follow this to an easing above a small ivy patch. Exit the groove rightwards to a ledge and take the short wall above to the top. Magnificent. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Rayson, Nev Hannaby 01/Jan/1960.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , University of Exeter must tick's , South West Classic VS's , Moving to Devon , Chudleigh Challenge , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Redemption , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I) , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do!

Feedback

User Date Notes
EdJHarley 8 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Number 2 DMM Wallnut stuck at the top ledge of Inkerman Groove today, just below left most piton. If you can save it, please pop me a message. In the meantime, nut provides a bomber alternative to the otherwise wobbly left peg! True of June 23
βeta?
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βeta: Number 2 DMM Wallnut stuck at the top ledge of Inkerman Groove today, just below left most piton. If you can save it, please pop me a message. In the meantime, nut provides a bomber alternative to the otherwise wobbly left peg! True of June 23
jameslomax 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There is a lower off at the top but it consists of 3 very rusty pegs, and is improperly equalized so you would be weighting one peg as you ab. Not my cup of tea so preferable is an easy move straight up from here to top out.
βeta?
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βeta: There is a lower off at the top but it consists of 3 very rusty pegs, and is improperly equalized so you would be weighting one peg as you ab. Not my cup of tea so preferable is an easy move straight up from here to top out.
ewalker278 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone find a south Devon guidebook near the base of this in the last few days? May have left it here on thursday evening (19th). Cheers, Ed
βeta?
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βeta: Anyone find a south Devon guidebook near the base of this in the last few days? May have left it here on thursday evening (19th). Cheers, Ed
Phwee 20 Oct, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: So good. Should take my time next time to enjoy it.
βeta?
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βeta: So good. Should take my time next time to enjoy it.
chris j 7 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The direct's not bad too, & only slightly harder (straight through the overhang to the base of the big groove)
βeta?
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βeta: The direct's not bad too, & only slightly harder (straight through the overhang to the base of the big groove)
victim of mathematics 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Sustained VS 4c goodness.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Sustained VS 4c goodness.

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Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 152
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 140
Votes cast 143
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Exmoor Coast Traverse (full version)

Grade: VS ***
(The Exmoor Coast Traverse)

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