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The Fly** HVS 5a

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[Lou on 1st pitch, 3 kb]3 pitches. The second pitch takes a fine right to left line across the upper section of the tower. Start directly below the highest section of the cliff at a thin diagonal crack which starts at around 5m. 1) 4b. Move up to a ledge beneath the diagonal crack and take the corner and crack on the right to a belay on the terrace. 2) 5a. Move left underneath the ivy and then climb the wall to the block overhang in the middle of the tower. Climb the right side of this and stand on the ledge at its top. Follow the obvious break horizontally left to the ledge on the edge of the buttress. Belay. 3) The edge of the buttress to the summit of the tower. © ROCKFAX
FA. F.Cannings 1965

Photo: Lou on 1st pitch © LDJ
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 82 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

NaCl - Lead β - 11/Sep/14 with Colin Hodder

Got a a bit lost and tried to continue the traverse low, level with the top of the block ledge. That was bloody hard so tried high on the (I guess) actual line. Should have just rested first but it turns out that pride comes before a literal fall.
NaCl - Lead dog - 04/Sep/14 with 2° Tom, Nikki Swan

Hidden - 2nd dog - Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14

P1 up to just below the block then it got dark. Backed off to ab from GWestern
NaCl - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Nikki Swan

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 11/Jul/14

2nd pitch. Description on here says to go left and up at belay whereas South Devon & Dartmoor guide says to go right and then diagonally left... I went right. Fell off final move of crux traverse 3 times (felt like I was missing something - maybe too low?!) had to ab off. Then Paul set up ab at top to retrieve gear in the dark... Absolute epic! No sign of any pegs mentioned in guidebook but gear is ok
callum brown - AltLd dnf - 11/Jul/14 with Paul

led in 1 big pitch which is a drag
misterb - Lead - 18/May/14 with bob

sure i did the wrong 1st pitch but could find a 4b line that match description. 5b on poor gear. 2nd pitch is nice. started late finished in dark.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/13 with Debbie

Led P2 and P3 together. The crux was technical but not too bad once you commit.
francois - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Chawn

LDJ - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Lou

Nick Biven - 2013

1st pitch only
mark schramm - Lead rpt - 11/Nov/12 with Lyndsay

lead p2 & 3 together, p2 was really good with a prity stiff crux for the grade i though but could of just missed something. partner had a bit of an epic on the crux so had to be lowered off ! but good exposed route
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with minexplorer

led 1st pitch un-elegently.to weak an to fat to manage 2nd pitch crux.mustnt climb at this grade again til ive lost a few stone.
minexplorer - AltLd dnf - 19/Sep/12 with jordan

Brilliant, with a really committing crux! Led in 2 pitches, up to base of Scar then to top
Chaman - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Jason Down

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/12

needs re-doing
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd dog - 29/May/12 with Stu Fox

Hidden - Lead - May/12

AJH - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Nov/11

twright180 - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/11

wolverine - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Matt Sparkes

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Mike Hayes

led 2nd pitch
mark schramm - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with chawn

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/11

nickdonohue - AltLd - Apr/11 with Dave Coley

couldnt finish crux on 2nd pitch.too dehydrated and finger strength failing to push it.seems far harder than any 5a ive ever done.tried to go up instead not knowing that was the E1 5b crux of spider.got some way then the good holds ran out followed by my fingers oops 20ft fall into space.rested had another bash then called a day backclimbed down and finished up never on sunday
minexplorer - Lead dnf - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/10

I lead pitch 1 & 3 - Jody got lucky with P2! Amazing second pitch - very exciting, very airy! Exciting move across the arete to reach second belay stance!
richardadventurecafe - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Jody Knight

Had to wait for somebody having a Spider epic, so only did the first pitch and finished up Scar
AJH - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Rob

tom169 - AltLd O/S - 27/May/10 with Joe, Mike

Eike - 2nd - 19/May/10 with Chawn Harlow

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/10

p1 only
henbot - Lead O/S - 2010 with Duncan C

jmhood - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/09

Pumpy and sketch on the footwork
GrendeI - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/09 with Shaun + Mike

climber sim - Oct/09

misterb - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09 with wain

Good climb, awkward traversing at the top.
pedro.silva - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Phil

P1 & 2 only, abbed off tree. Good route, crux right at the end of the traverse. No sign of any of the pegs mentioned in guide, but gear is ok (small wires and cams).
Phil79 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Pedro

tskelhon - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with John_Warner

Led 1st pitch clean. Fell off following the crux on 2nd pitch ... Damn it!! Quite "exciting" climbing!
JonHarvey - AltLd dog - 03/May/09 with Jay Jackson and Jayne-o

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09

raku - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Beata Rakowska

The rock was well cold,my poor little fingers.Struggled a bit getting around the arete,nice route.
Popkids - 2nd - 04/Jan/09 with Kafoozalem

An awesome route with plenty of exposed rock! absolutly gorgous in the sun!
Jack_F - Lead β - 03/Jan/09 with Bob foley

getting very polished, some holds becoming lose and some rock becoming lose due to overuse of protection, but a good route.
jay10121 - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/08 with sam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08

got half way to the block on p2 and realised that i needed a) double ropes and b) to have started it half an hour earlier.(it was dark)
w.pettet-smith - Lead dnf - 23/Jul/08 with mark the teacher

1st pitch only then finished up Never on a sunday.
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/08

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Justin T - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/Aug/07

sharmawho? - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/07 with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave

Rob Kennard - 2007

OliBoyes - 2007 with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/03

aged_ape - Lead β - May/03 with Rob T

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jul/02

Roget - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/00

JiveWeasel - AltLd - 04/Jun/95 with Al B

colin milton - AltLd - 21/May/95 with eric milton

tuftynick - Lead - 1995 with ben winston

sdht - 1994

tapley - Lead - 30/May/92 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/90

Mickdenali - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/84

mark-abz - Lead - 30/Oct/80 with Jonti F

Steve Woollard - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1979

Simon cook - 1978

Simon cook - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AJH, petecallaghan, Master Chief, nick hawkins, Kate Edhouse

Voting
Total votes cast 37
hard E10 of 13
E10 of 13
easy E11 of 13
hard HVS8 of 13
HVS3 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard VS1 of 13
VS0 of 13
easy VS0 of 13
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b1 of 13
hard 5a9 of 13
5a3 of 13
easy 5a0 of 13
hard 4c0 of 13
4c0 of 13
easy 4c0 of 13
3 Stars0 of 11
2 Stars10 of 11
1 Star1 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead43 of 82 (52.4%)
Followed10 of 82 (12.2%)
Alt Leads20 of 82 (24.4%)
Unknown9 of 82 (11.0%)

'Climbed'25 of 82 (30.5%)
clean O/S36 of 82 (43.9%)
clean β4 of 82 (4.9%)
clean rpt6 of 82 (7.3%)
dogged5 of 82 (6.1%)
dnf6 of 82 (7.3%)