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Scimitar Direct*** E1 5b

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Fruitflancase >>
[Scimitar Direct Start, 3 kb]2 pitches. A spectacular mission taking the sheer right wall of Central Groove. 1) 5b. Start up Central Groove and pull out right on to the hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang and pull through on to the vertical wall. Ascend direct to the belay of Central Groove on positive holds. 2) 4b. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top. © ROCKFAX
A spectacular mission taking the sheer right wall of Central Groove. 1) 5b. Start up Central Groove and pull out right on to the hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang and pull through on to the vertical wall. Trend rightwards to join the arete after approximately 10ft. Ascend direct to the belay of Central Groove on positive holds. (Peg mentioned in S. Devon & Dartmoor guide has now gone) 2) 4b. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top.
FA. P.Littlejohn 1968

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Scimitar Direct Start © Mark Glaister
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 51 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/14

I got really pumped after the overhang and had to rest half way up the face. It's a brilliant route.
Chris Joyce - Lead dog - 17/Mar/14 with Milton Wakefield

miltonwakefield - AltLd β - 13/Mar/14 with Chris Joyce

Impending darkness and a dripping roof put us off the last pitch
nickstephens - AltLd dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Gareth Greeves

Rain stopped play :o(
nickstephens - Lead dnf - 15/Sep/13 with Gareth Greeves

LDJ - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with Lou

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with rich smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Pitch 1
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 30/May/13

hornbywill - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

lead p1. was such a cool route. the move out from under the roof was amazing and the face climbing was really cool. E1 5B
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 02/May/13

After taking a whipper two years ago
Ed morris - Lead β - 25/Apr/13 with Ian

Lewis Stewart - 18/Apr/13 with James Goss

willhornby - 2013

One fall coming round the overhang. climbed the slab with forearms bulging...
Alex the Alex - Lead dog - Sep/12

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Caroline

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Gramps

Hidden - AltLd dog - 13/Nov/11

burto - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with hertha

E2 IMO. hard to commit to the move around the "roof". Was planning on Scimitar Variations as per rockfax, although it got dark and we escaped up the 2nd pitch of central groove.. climbing is awesome after the roof. Awesome holds and
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/11 with Stubbs

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/11 with matt rust

felt e2 ish
misterb - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11 with bob

took a big fall coming out of the overhang by the first crack, got injured so i decided not to continue. hopefully i will this climb done :D
brynmays - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/11 with Dave Bryant

'Scimitar Variations' as per Rockfax Westcountry climbs book. Second Pitch up the steep roof to the left of central groove belay. Led Both Pitches.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11

EmilyElouise - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

pinged off coming out from under the overhang. climbed a bit of central groove to get back on route. really enjoyed climbing the face - amazing holds!
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 04/Sep/10 with bobby gilbert

Bobby Gilbert - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Katherine Sydney

Luke d - TR O/S - 30/Aug/09

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Mark Glaister

My feet popped off just as I tried to climb out from the overhang. I lead from the belay.
Popkids - 2nd dog - 01/Mar/09 with Kafoozalem

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/08 with Tommo

Twice I have bottled it and gone into central groove!! All straight forward otherwise!
sebrider - Lead dnf - 2008 with eugeneth

Bold headwall and excellent.
alaan - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Me sis

Dave Searle - Lead - 10/Jun/07 with sim

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman

climber sim - 2007

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2007

colin milton - 2nd - 22/Jun/06 with salamanda

leadmat - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

feilx - 2005

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/00

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 05/Dec/99 with Nic Dill

ChrisJD - Lead - Jul/99

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Dec/85

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Chris Joyce, chrisweight, iksander, Lumbering Oaf, Graham C, Hidden, Hidden, petecallaghan, Hidden, Hidden, kayakmonkey, nickstephens, Kemics, stuntsbyjon, givemetea, Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 27
hard E20 of 10
E21 of 10
easy E25 of 10
hard E12 of 10
E12 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard HVS0 of 10
HVS0 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c1 of 9
hard 5b3 of 9
5b4 of 9
easy 5b1 of 9
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
3 Stars8 of 8
2 Stars0 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead29 of 51 (56.9%)
Followed7 of 51 (13.7%)
Toproped1 of 51 (2.0%)
Alt Leads10 of 51 (19.6%)
Unknown4 of 51 (7.8%)

'Climbed'13 of 51 (25.5%)
clean O/S25 of 51 (49.0%)
clean β3 of 51 (5.9%)
dogged6 of 51 (11.8%)
dnf4 of 51 (7.8%)