2 pitches. 1) E1 5b+. At the point where you step out onto the slab for Simitar, climb direct to the roof, via a thin crack. After the move round the roof (as for Scimitar), traverse right, to the arÍte. Climb this arÍte, passing pegs on the main face.
Bold, for its grade.
The roof, connecting the start and the arÍte, has yet to be climbed direct...

FA. P.Littlejohn 1968

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

AlexD 17/Sep AltLd O/S

Climbed up middle of the face rather than arete.

with Ceri
Ceridwen ?/Sep 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd dog
andrewmcleod 04/Jul 2nd dog

Totally knackered getting the gear out under the roof, and couldn't make the big reach, cut-loose, reposition and rock-over :( sandbag at 5b! although the rest is not so bad.

ewalker278 04/Jul Lead
Sam Simpson 26/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May 2nd dog
Hidden 09/May Lead O/S
georgeevans88 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Great route. Strong moves to get around the roof but not actually too bad as long as you keep moving. Bailed out of leading the 5b roof of Schimitar Variations (Roackfax) at the top. Felt more like 5c to me and with the possibility of hitting the ledge before the gear caught.

with Jamie
zcsharp 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

The first pitch was beautiful, quite sustained but with rests in the right spots. Over the overhang was a crimp fest but didn't release how run out it was gonna be so that added some spice to things. We were gonna do scimitar variations as according to the rockfax guide but after George avoided it and then i had a go top roping it on second it is much harder than 5b and is very serious if you fall.

Ewan Russell 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

I did 2nd pitch of extendable arms described a scimitar variations

with Tom Nichols
John Tanner 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Great route. Topped out via Central Groove but fancy coming back for the 5b top pitch as per Rockfax Westcountry Climbs 'Scimitar Variation'

tobydunford 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
nickstephens 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with ian hang-on-the-rope hendy, Gareth Greeves
Hidden 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/14 Lead dog
miltonwakefield 13/Mar/14 AltLd β
with Chris Joyce
nickstephens 01/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Impending darkness and a dripping roof put us off the last pitch

nickstephens 15/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Rain stopped play :o(

LDJ 14/Sep/13 Lead
with Lou
shoulders 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
metal arms 30/May/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

hornbywill 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Jordon Fleming 02/May/13 AltLd O/S

lead p1. was such a cool route. the move out from under the roof was amazing and the face climbing was really cool. E1 5B

Ed morris 25/Apr/13 Lead β

After taking a whipper two years ago

with Ian
Lewis Stewart 18/Apr/13 -
with James Goss
willhornby ??/2013 -
Alex the Alex ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

One fall coming round the overhang. climbed the slab with forearms bulging...

Bristoldave 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Caroline
dswansonlow 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Gramps
Hidden 13/Nov/11 AltLd dog
burto 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with hertha
rustaldo 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S

E2 IMO. hard to commit to the move around the "roof". Was planning on Scimitar Variations as per rockfax, although it got dark and we escaped up the 2nd pitch of central groove.. climbing is awesome after the roof. Awesome holds and

with Stubbs
carl_123 20/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
misterb 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S

felt e2 ish

with bob
brynmays 31/Aug/11 Lead dnf

took a big fall coming out of the overhang by the first crack, got injured so i decided not to continue. hopefully i will this climb done :D

Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 08/Aug/11 2nd dog
nickdonohue ?/Jul/11 Lead

Great climb, 'adequate' gear (small / medium) cams on the upper wall of the 1st pitch. One of the best routes at the Dewerstone.

with Pete Merrick
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 04/Sep/10 2nd dog

pinged off coming out from under the overhang. climbed a bit of central groove to get back on route. really enjoyed climbing the face - amazing holds!

Bobby Gilbert 04/Sep/10 Lead
Luke d 30/Aug/09 TR O/S
Marti999 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Popkids 01/Mar/09 2nd dog

My feet popped off just as I tried to climb out from the overhang. I lead from the belay.

with Kafoozalem
Steerpike 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tommo
sebrider ??/2008 Lead dnf

Twice I have bottled it and gone into central groove!! All straight forward otherwise!

alaan 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Bold headwall and excellent.

with Me sis
Dave Searle 10/Jun/07 Lead
with sim
cem 09/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led p1

climber sim ??/2007 -
David Sherratt ??/2007 Lead O/S
colin milton 22/Jun/06 2nd
with salamanda
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
feilx ??/2005 -
tom.e ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 05/Sep/03 Lead
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 05/Dec/99 2nd
with Nic Dill
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead
Simon cook ??/1997 -
NickJH ??/1991 -
Hidden 28/Dec/85 Lead β
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