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Scimitar Direct*** E1 5b

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[Scimitar Direct, 1 kb]2 pitches. A spectacular mission taking the sheer right wall of Central Groove. 1) 5b. Start up Central Groove and pull out right on to the hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang and pull through on to the vertical wall. Ascend direct to the belay of Central Groove on positive holds. 2) 4b. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top. © ROCKFAX
A spectacular mission taking the sheer right wall of Central Groove. 1) 5b. Start up Central Groove and pull out right on to the hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang and pull through on to the vertical wall. Trend rightwards to join the arete after approximately 10ft. Ascend direct to the belay of Central Groove on positive holds. (Peg mentioned in S. Devon & Dartmoor guide has now gone) 2) 4b. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top.
FA. P.Littlejohn 1968

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Scimitar Direct © Paddy
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 58 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Great route. Strong moves to get around the roof but not actually too bad as long as you keep moving. Bailed out of leading the 5b roof of Schimitar Variations (Roackfax) at the top. Felt more like 5c to me and with the possibility of hitting the ledge before the gear caught.
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Jamie

The first pitch was beautiful, quite sustained but with rests in the right spots. Over the overhang was a crimp fest but didn't release how run out it was gonna be so that added some spice to things. We were gonna do scimitar variations as according to the rockfax guide but after George avoided it and then i had a go top roping it on second it is much harder than 5b and is very serious if you fall.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with George Evans

I did 2nd pitch of extendable arms described a scimitar variations
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Tom Nichols

Great route. Topped out via Central Groove but fancy coming back for the 5b top pitch as per Rockfax Westcountry Climbs 'Scimitar Variation'
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Derwood Brooks

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin

nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with ian hang-on-the-rope hendy, Gareth Greeves

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Mar/14

miltonwakefield - AltLd β - 13/Mar/14 with Chris Joyce

Impending darkness and a dripping roof put us off the last pitch
nickstephens - AltLd dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Gareth Greeves

Rain stopped play :o(
nickstephens - Lead dnf - 15/Sep/13 with Gareth Greeves

LDJ - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with Lou

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with rich smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Pitch 1
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 30/May/13

hornbywill - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

lead p1. was such a cool route. the move out from under the roof was amazing and the face climbing was really cool. E1 5B
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 02/May/13

After taking a whipper two years ago
Ed morris - Lead β - 25/Apr/13 with Ian

Lewis Stewart - 18/Apr/13 with James Goss

willhornby - 2013

One fall coming round the overhang. climbed the slab with forearms bulging...
Alex the Alex - Lead dog - Sep/12

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Caroline

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Gramps

Hidden - AltLd dog - 13/Nov/11

burto - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with hertha

E2 IMO. hard to commit to the move around the "roof". Was planning on Scimitar Variations as per rockfax, although it got dark and we escaped up the 2nd pitch of central groove.. climbing is awesome after the roof. Awesome holds and
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/11 with Stubbs

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/11 with matt rust

felt e2 ish
misterb - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11 with bob

took a big fall coming out of the overhang by the first crack, got injured so i decided not to continue. hopefully i will this climb done :D
brynmays - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/11 with Dave Bryant

'Scimitar Variations' as per Rockfax Westcountry climbs book. Second Pitch up the steep roof to the left of central groove belay. Led Both Pitches.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11

EmilyElouise - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/11

Great climb, 'adequate' gear (small / medium) cams on the upper wall of the 1st pitch. One of the best routes at the Dewerstone.
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/11 with Pete Merrick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

pinged off coming out from under the overhang. climbed a bit of central groove to get back on route. really enjoyed climbing the face - amazing holds!
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 04/Sep/10 with bobby gilbert

Bobby Gilbert - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Katherine Sydney

Luke d - TR O/S - 30/Aug/09

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Mark Glaister

My feet popped off just as I tried to climb out from the overhang. I lead from the belay.
Popkids - 2nd dog - 01/Mar/09 with Kafoozalem

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/08 with Tommo

Twice I have bottled it and gone into central groove!! All straight forward otherwise!
sebrider - Lead dnf - 2008 with eugeneth

Bold headwall and excellent.
alaan - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Me sis

Dave Searle - Lead - 10/Jun/07 with sim

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman

climber sim - 2007

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2007

colin milton - 2nd - 22/Jun/06 with salamanda

leadmat - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

feilx - 2005

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/00

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 05/Dec/99 with Nic Dill

ChrisJD - Lead - Jul/99

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Dec/85

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Voting
Total votes cast 36
hard E20 of 13
E21 of 13
easy E26 of 13
hard E12 of 13
E14 of 13
easy E10 of 13
hard HVS0 of 13
HVS0 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard 5c0 of 12
5c0 of 12
easy 5c2 of 12
hard 5b3 of 12
5b6 of 12
easy 5b1 of 12
hard 5a0 of 12
5a0 of 12
easy 5a0 of 12
3 Stars11 of 11
2 Stars0 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead32 of 58 (55.2%)
Followed8 of 58 (13.8%)
Toproped1 of 58 (1.7%)
Alt Leads13 of 58 (22.4%)
Unknown4 of 58 (6.9%)

'Climbed'14 of 58 (24.1%)
clean O/S31 of 58 (53.4%)
clean β3 of 58 (5.2%)
dogged6 of 58 (10.3%)
dnf4 of 58 (6.9%)