Scimitar Direct*** E1 5b
[Scimitar Direct Start, 3 kb]2 pitches. 1) E1 5b+. At the point where you step out onto the slab for Simitar, climb direct to the roof, via a thin crack. After the move round the roof (as for Scimitar), traverse right, to the arête. Climb this arête, passing pegs on the main face.
Bold, for its grade.
The roof, connecting the start and the arête, has yet to be climbed direct...
FA. P.Littlejohn 1968

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Scimitar Direct Start © Mark Glaister
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This climb is in 67 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

Climbed up middle of the face rather than arete.
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/15 with Ceri

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/15

Totally knackered getting the gear out under the roof, and couldn't make the big reach, cut-loose, reposition and rock-over :( sandbag at 5b! although the rest is not so bad.
andrewmcleod - 2nd dog - 04/Jul/15 with Ed Walker

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 26/May/15 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/May/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/15

Great route. Strong moves to get around the roof but not actually too bad as long as you keep moving. Bailed out of leading the 5b roof of Schimitar Variations (Roackfax) at the top. Felt more like 5c to me and with the possibility of hitting the ledge before the gear caught.
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Jamie

The first pitch was beautiful, quite sustained but with rests in the right spots. Over the overhang was a crimp fest but didn't release how run out it was gonna be so that added some spice to things. We were gonna do scimitar variations as according to the rockfax guide but after George avoided it and then i had a go top roping it on second it is much harder than 5b and is very serious if you fall.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with George Evans

I did 2nd pitch of extendable arms described a scimitar variations
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Tom Nichols

Great route. Topped out via Central Groove but fancy coming back for the 5b top pitch as per Rockfax Westcountry Climbs 'Scimitar Variation'
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Derwood Brooks

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin

nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with ian hang-on-the-rope hendy, Gareth Greeves

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Mar/14

miltonwakefield - AltLd β - 13/Mar/14 with Chris Joyce

Impending darkness and a dripping roof put us off the last pitch
nickstephens - AltLd dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Gareth Greeves

Rain stopped play :o(
nickstephens - Lead dnf - 15/Sep/13 with Gareth Greeves

LDJ - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with Lou

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with rich smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Pitch 1
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 30/May/13

hornbywill - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

lead p1. was such a cool route. the move out from under the roof was amazing and the face climbing was really cool. E1 5B
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 02/May/13

After taking a whipper two years ago
Ed morris - Lead β - 25/Apr/13 with Ian

Lewis Stewart - 18/Apr/13 with James Goss

willhornby - 2013

One fall coming round the overhang. climbed the slab with forearms bulging...
Alex the Alex - Lead dog - Sep/12

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Caroline

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Gramps

Hidden - AltLd dog - 13/Nov/11

burto - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with hertha

E2 IMO. hard to commit to the move around the "roof". Was planning on Scimitar Variations as per rockfax, although it got dark and we escaped up the 2nd pitch of central groove.. climbing is awesome after the roof. Awesome holds and
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/11 with Stubbs

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/11 with matt rust

felt e2 ish
misterb - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11 with bob

took a big fall coming out of the overhang by the first crack, got injured so i decided not to continue. hopefully i will this climb done :D
brynmays - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/11 with Dave Bryant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11

EmilyElouise - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/11

Great climb, 'adequate' gear (small / medium) cams on the upper wall of the 1st pitch. One of the best routes at the Dewerstone.
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/11 with Pete Merrick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

pinged off coming out from under the overhang. climbed a bit of central groove to get back on route. really enjoyed climbing the face - amazing holds!
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 04/Sep/10 with bobby gilbert

Bobby Gilbert - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Katherine Sydney

Luke d - TR O/S - 30/Aug/09

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Mark Glaister

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Charles Dawson

My feet popped off just as I tried to climb out from the overhang. I lead from the belay.
Popkids - 2nd dog - 01/Mar/09 with Kafoozalem

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/08 with Tommo

Twice I have bottled it and gone into central groove!! All straight forward otherwise!
sebrider - Lead dnf - 2008 with eugeneth

Bold headwall and excellent.
alaan - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Me sis

Dave Searle - Lead - 10/Jun/07 with sim

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman

climber sim - 2007

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2007

colin milton - 2nd - 22/Jun/06 with salamanda

leadmat - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

feilx - 2005

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/00

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 05/Dec/99 with Nic Dill

ChrisJD - Lead - Jul/99

Simon cook - 1997

NickJH - 1991

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Dec/85

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
andrewmcleod, EyebrowTom, Lee_Meaden, hutchay, Bertbee, Alan100, iksander, Lumbering Oaf, Graham C, petecallaghan, kayakmonkey, Kemics, stuntsbyjon, givemetea, Ropeboy

Total votes cast 41
hard E20 of 15
E21 of 15
easy E26 of 15
hard E14 of 15
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easy E10 of 15
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hard 5c0 of 14
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easy 5c3 of 14
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easy 5b1 of 14
hard 5a0 of 14
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easy 5a0 of 14
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