The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. High in the grade. Start up the thin cracks three metres right of the square hole. Step right when the going gets tough and move up to a ledge. Finish more easily above. © Rockfax
FA. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths, M.Harber, C.Parkin 1985
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Bernie L||26/Sep||Lead O/S|
|dobby 200||06/Sep||Lead O/S||
Greasy misty conditions, fell off 3 times on lead, pulling ropes each time and going ground up. Gave up with jangled nerves, Greg jugged the ab line and I managed it clean on top rope to escape.
|Cailean Harker||21/May||Lead O/S|
|Ollie B||04/May||Lead O/S||
Bob led up crack to start but came back down. Pulled ropes and finished it off.
|tom jefferies||04/May||2nd O/S|
Steady climbing all the way really
|3 Names||22/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
|Ed Booth||26/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
|Dan Hostford||26/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Really nice, will have to come back for the lead
|Dan Geh||09/Jun/14||TR O/S||
Messed up the crux first time round, fine after that
|Rachel Slater||08/May/14||Lead O/S||
Beautiful route, way easier than I expected!
Brilliant, brilliant route, and I don't like slabs! Take micros, take care, enjoy.
|Tom Livingstone||24/Apr/14||Lead β||
Belayed John on it, but felt like an onsight! Hot, sweaty, boxed and sore feet. Fun times!
Tim Neill, John Orr
|Duncan Campbell||21/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
Bloody brilliant. Nice, steady, positive climbing that is well protected by pretty good but small RPs. Soft for the grade in my opinion. So good though.
|Julian Cooper||16/Apr/14||2nd O/S||
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||21/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
|Adam Booth||31/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
Lots of good small handholds, but finding foothold is more difficult than first appears
|Matt Cooke||25/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
|victim of mathematics||14/Aug/13||2nd O/S||
Hard! Never in all my days have I crimped so hard. Awesome, but painful.
Much better with a fall rack!
|Matt Harle||14/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
|Alex Mason||06/May/13||2nd β||
Tricky little number, Cool kitten claw hold.
Thin and sustained but cool! Was glad of small wires and cams. Wanted to bail at one point but the gear was marginal at best so had to man up and make the move to a rest and gear, glad I did.
|Chi Cheng||03/May/13||Lead O/S||
Thin! Thank god for IMPs, Micro Wallnuts and Mini Rocks. Placed nothing bigger than a wallnut size 2.
|dan ely||26/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
jon (ukc reading)
|Ed morris||28/Jun/12||Lead rpt||
|Katherine Ross||10/Jun/12||TR O/S||
Deviated at the top slightly as the TR was set up from the abseil stakes but it seems the crux was further down.
|Daniel Heath||06/May/12||Lead β||
Very happy to get this done. Was a little worried about the gear. I went for a sideways nut in the big gap, but not convinced. The IMPs were good I guess. Crux was straightforward/crimpy. The top was a romp after the scary bit was over.
|Jim Slater||07/Apr/12||2nd O/S||
|andrew sandercock||07/Apr/12||2nd O/S||
Want to come back and lead this.
shoddy gear. i wouldn't want to fall off this one.
|Adam Coles||?/Mar/12||Lead O/S|
|tim newton||30/Jul/11||Lead O/S|
Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
|Luke Brooks||28/Jun/11||Lead O/S||
Glyn Hudson, Barni
got scared 3/4 metres above #1 rp and was finding it hard to read the moves. but worked it out and pushed on through to the top. a climb definetley worth doing with plenty of rp's.
managed to psych myself out on this one.. got to the good jug before the crux move and got pumped trying to get the sequence. placed a cam from there and had a rest on that (only two lobes in - very dodge) then managed the crux to the gear.
Abseiled down to dry/chalk the holds in the middle, as the ab rope was there and they were wet, and i was feeling out of shape and nervous about the OS. Glad I did, as it allowed me the liberty of checking an important wire slot, even tested to make sure I got the right one. So I had good beta for a crucial few metres in the middle, which took a lot of psychological pressure/uncertainty out of the equation! After that it felt pretty fair at the grade, and if you have a good selection of small wires it was pretty safe. Absolutely beautiful climbing!
Stupidly top-roped this years ago...or so I thought, turns out I didn't do most of the line, went way off left so pretty much o/s. Awesome line, super bold crux, wicked climb.
Really hard - very pleased to have climbed it clean. Must be a scary lead!
Kieran O' Sullivan
|david morse||26/Aug/10||Lead RP||
Backed off from the crux in the past, good to get it sent. bring your #2 RP's and keep the faith, its scary but the gears all there
|jonny taylor||12/Aug/10||TR O/S||
The bottom half was as sustained as it gets, on tiny holds!
|Ed morris||07/Mar/10||Lead O/S||
Absolutely amazing climb, second E3 and onsight!
so good I had to do it twice
|belay bunny turned bad||17/Sep/09||TR rpt|
|C coldwell-storry||25/Jun/09||Lead O/S||
|Tim Steward||25/Sep/08||Lead O/S||
|dan gibson||28/Jul/08||Lead O/S||
|irish paul||11/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
|Mark Walter||10/Jun/08||2nd O/S|
Great climb with lovely slabby moves leading into a steep headwall.
|Stone Muppet||??/2008||2nd O/S||
Ok I only seconded this but remember it as feeling easier than Be Clever further to the left which I tried to climb two years later. Maybe it was just the hot weather or something!
|Ram MkiV||27/Aug/07||Lead O/S||
|Graeme Hammond||05/May/07||2nd O/S|
|Kev Little||??/2006||Lead O/S|
Tim Riley, Will Frost
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||11/Jun/01||Lead O/S||
|belay bunny turned bad||??/2000||-|
Did on school trip. Tough for the grade, but lovely climbing. Carreg-y-Barcud is ace!
|Steve Crowe||07/Apr/96||Lead O/S||
Lots of good micro wires.
|William Robertson||??/1985||Lead O/S||