Rockfax Description
The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. High in the grade. Start up the thin cracks three metres right of the square hole. Step right when the going gets tough and move up to a ledge. Finish more easily above. © Rockfax

FA. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths, M.Harber, C.Parkin 1985

Ticklists: Old Skool YUMC Roadtrip, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Best slab climbs of the UK, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 26/Sep 2nd O/S
Bernie L 26/Sep Lead O/S
deklan 08/Sep Lead
dobby 200 06/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug Lead O/S
sparbus 18/Jul 2nd
LJC 20/Jun Lead dnf
LJC 20/Jun TR RP

Greasy misty conditions, fell off 3 times on lead, pulling ropes each time and going ground up. Gave up with jangled nerves, Greg jugged the ab line and I managed it clean on top rope to escape.

JasonK 25/May 2nd
Dan Shacklock
Cailean Harker 21/May Lead O/S
Ollie B 04/May Lead O/S

Bob led up crack to start but came back down. Pulled ropes and finished it off.

tom jefferies 04/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr Lead O/S
Andrew1 08/Apr 2nd
Ian craigie ??/2015 TR
Will nicholls
Hidden ??/2015 -
duncandarnell 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Steady climbing all the way really

jord smith
3 Names 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Robert Dufton
rd20 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Dizz 20/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Anna Pugh
Dan Hostford 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
George Hostford
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Ross.Cooper 09/Jun/14 TR O/S

Really nice, will have to come back for the lead

Dan Geh 09/Jun/14 TR O/S
Paddy, Ross
Hidden 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 31/May/14 Lead O/S
will_benfold 31/May/14 2nd dog

Messed up the crux first time round, fine after that

skippington 29/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 08/May/14 Lead O/S

Beautiful route, way easier than I expected!

Justin T 08/May/14 2nd

Brilliant, brilliant route, and I don't like slabs! Take micros, take care, enjoy.

Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 24/Apr/14 Lead β

Belayed John on it, but felt like an onsight! Hot, sweaty, boxed and sore feet. Fun times!

Tim Neill, John Orr
Duncan Campbell 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Bloody brilliant. Nice, steady, positive climbing that is well protected by pretty good but small RPs. Soft for the grade in my opinion. So good though.

Julian Cooper 16/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Stuart Knott
jcw ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S


Martin Doyle
w.pettet-smith ?/Sep/13 -
Adam Booth 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
edmitchell 31/Aug/13 2nd dog

Lots of good small handholds, but finding foothold is more difficult than first appears

Matt Cooke 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Sam Taylor
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 14/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Hard! Never in all my days have I crimped so hard. Awesome, but painful.

Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Much better with a fall rack!

Richard Snow
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead dnf
Andrew1 13/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd
Matt Harle 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S


lcullum7 13/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 06/May/13 2nd β

Tricky little number, Cool kitten claw hold.

Jemma Powell
shed_hed 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Thin and sustained but cool! Was glad of small wires and cams. Wanted to bail at one point but the gear was marginal at best so had to man up and make the move to a rest and gear, glad I did.

Maddie Sweetman
Maddie 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 03/May/13 Lead O/S

Thin! Thank god for IMPs, Micro Wallnuts and Mini Rocks. Placed nothing bigger than a wallnut size 2.

Adam Knightly
Hidden 02/May/13 Lead
dan ely 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jon (ukc reading)
Hidden 31/Dec/12 TR O/S
Ed morris 28/Jun/12 Lead rpt
pembrokeshirecaver 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
TDSvejstrup 12/Jun/12 TR O/S
Katherine Ross 10/Jun/12 TR O/S

Deviated at the top slightly as the TR was set up from the abseil stakes but it seems the crux was further down.

Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
jossjones 22/May/12 2nd
Daniel Heath 06/May/12 Lead β

Very happy to get this done. Was a little worried about the gear. I went for a sideways nut in the big gap, but not convinced. The IMPs were good I guess. Crux was straightforward/crimpy. The top was a romp after the scary bit was over.

drysori ?/May/12 Lead
Jim Slater 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Gavin Singleton
andrew sandercock 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Want to come back and lead this.

Mark A
markalmack 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

shoddy gear. i wouldn't want to fall off this one.

Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead β
Adam Coles ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tim newton 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 27/Jul/11 Lead
Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Glyn 29/Jun/11 Lead β
pipof747 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Glyn Hudson, Barni
barni 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
vertically_challenged 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S

got scared 3/4 metres above #1 rp and was finding it hard to read the moves. but worked it out and pushed on through to the top. a climb definetley worth doing with plenty of rp's.

CharlieMack 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
GrantB 28/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 28/Apr/11 Lead dog

managed to psych myself out on this one.. got to the good jug before the crux move and got pumped trying to get the sequence. placed a cam from there and had a rest on that (only two lobes in - very dodge) then managed the crux to the gear.

petellis 28/Apr/11 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 19/Feb/11 Lead β

Abseiled down to dry/chalk the holds in the middle, as the ab rope was there and they were wet, and i was feeling out of shape and nervous about the OS. Glad I did, as it allowed me the liberty of checking an important wire slot, even tested to make sure I got the right one. So I had good beta for a crucial few metres in the middle, which took a lot of psychological pressure/uncertainty out of the equation! After that it felt pretty fair at the grade, and if you have a good selection of small wires it was pretty safe. Absolutely beautiful climbing!

mrstarwarsman 19/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2011 -
thomasadixon 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Stupidly top-roped this years ago...or so I thought, turns out I didn't do most of the line, went way off left so pretty much o/s. Awesome line, super bold crux, wicked climb.

BeccaSnowden 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Really hard - very pleased to have climbed it clean. Must be a scary lead!

richardr 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
muttley_109 04/Sep/10 TR dog
Gary Lewis
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
Pippa 30/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S
C Mclean 27/Aug/10 Lead
Kieran O' Sullivan
david morse 26/Aug/10 Lead RP

Backed off from the crux in the past, good to get it sent. bring your #2 RP's and keep the faith, its scary but the gears all there

Hidden 26/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/10 2nd
jonny taylor 12/Aug/10 TR O/S

The bottom half was as sustained as it gets, on tiny holds!

Speeddemonsi 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
DafSWMC 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
soph ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Dan McManus
TM_Horton 16/Jun/10 2nd dog
spacey 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Ed morris 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing climb, second E3 and onsight!

Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
ChrisAllen ??/2010 -
RobRock84 29/Sep/09 TR O/S

wow!amazing route!

RobRock84 29/Sep/09 TR rpt

so good I had to do it twice

Hidden 17/Sep/09 TR rpt
belay bunny turned bad 17/Sep/09 TR rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/09 2nd O/S
C coldwell-storry 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
George Ullrich
dodfoster 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
tom pearson
Shauna 23/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/08 TR O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Oli 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Tim Steward 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
jonnybull ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S
dan gibson 28/Jul/08 Lead O/S
anna barnes
tobydunford 17/Jul/08 TR O/S
Harry Martin
Bern 06/Jul/08 Lead O/S
irish paul 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Mark Walter 10/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Chad123 04/May/08 AltLd O/S

Great climb with lovely slabby moves leading into a steep headwall.

Hidden 16/Apr/08 2nd O/S
mbutton ??/2008 Lead O/S
Alex Adgar
Stone Muppet ??/2008 2nd O/S

Ok I only seconded this but remember it as feeling easier than Be Clever further to the left which I tried to climb two years later. Maybe it was just the hot weather or something!

Ram MkiV 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S


Hidden 23/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/07 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 05/May/07 2nd O/S
bfreeman ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead dnf
benjhans 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Awesomly crimpy!

Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
feilx 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
givemetea 24/Aug/06 TR O/S
crag_monster ?/Aug/06 TR
Hidden 07/Jul/06 TR O/S
ewen 16/May/06 Lead O/S
jim robertson ??/2006 -
John Kettle ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Bella 14/May/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
alex_th 10/Apr/04 2nd
Tim Riley, Will Frost
buzby78 06/May/02 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/01 Lead O/S
ellis ?/May/01 2nd O/S
Alan Willoner
Hidden ??/2001 -
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead O/S
andy benson
Hidden 14/Aug/99 Lead
brummievet ?/Jul/99 2nd O/S

Did on school trip. Tough for the grade, but lovely climbing. Carreg-y-Barcud is ace!

Nigel Coe ??/1999 TR
Carl Smethurst 24/Jul/98 TR
Ian Pickles
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/98 Lead
Steve Crowe 07/Apr/96 Lead O/S

Lots of good micro wires.

Billg ?/Aug/94 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S
Shaun Derry
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 42
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set