Rockfax Description
II, 200m. The route starts below a slabby triangular niche capped by a small overhang. There are variations on the top four pitches but this is the classic way of doing the route.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb the left side of the niche and pass the overhang on the left. Follow a fun chimney to a good ledge.
2) 4b, 30m. Step left and climb a series of easy cracks to a ledge and belay.
3) 3c, 25m. Head up easy, broken ground to a stance below and left of a cracked slab. Single bolt belay.
4) 5b, 35m. Cross more easy ground rightwards then follow a crack up and right across the slab before going directly up to a small belay ledge.
5) 4c, 30m. Follow a chimney and flakes to a single bolt belay on the ridge.
6) 5b, 35m. Go through a notch on the ridge and traverse right to belay directly below the summit tower, which is much steeper than the previous few pitches.
7) 5b, 25m. Climb the excellent crack directly above the belay, just to the right of an arête, to a large ledge. Scramble easily from here onto the summit block. © Rockfax
Michel Piola 27/Dec/1975.
Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alps 2023 , Top quality Alps under 4000m , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Emma and Will go the the Alps , Neonatal Alpinist 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
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James W | 6 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: 4th pitvh has a right crack that is quite easy and described and a great direct alternative crack straight up that is 5c, highly recommend the alternative, felt quite hard | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 4th pitvh has a right crack that is quite easy and described and a great direct alternative crack straight up that is 5c, highly recommend the alternative, felt quite hard |
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Grade: D ***
(Les Courtes)