Strapiombo*** HVS 5b
[Strapiombo, Craig Pant Ifan, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A mighty chimney with moves to match, it can feel anywhere between HVS and E3 depending of your chimneying abilities and the number of massive cams you own!
1) 35m. As for P1 of Poor Man's Peuterey, then continue straight up and left to a tree below the slot.
2) 5b, 18m. Get yourself into the chimney and use any means you can to get to the top. Breaststroke seems to work best. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying.

Photo: Strapiombo, Craig Pant Ifan © caradoc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

Normally I don't log DNF but this one stands out in the memory. Despite making virtually no movement I was pumped and exhausted after six or so metres. I became wedged and unable to turn my head(might be easier with no helmet) and curiously despite being unable to move I felt I could fall out of the chimney at any moment. I might go back for round two, not sure if it's worth it.
caradoc - AltLd dnf - 18/Apr/15 with Matt H.

Next level suffering. Being run over by a bus would be more pleasant. A sacrificial nut two was left to appease the spirit of Whillans, anyone who likes a good grovel is welcome to it.
UncleMephisto - AltLd dnf - 17/Jan/15 with Vasco Bull

JHC - 23/Aug/14

Rob P1, me P2. Interesting climbing up to the chimney, and a challenging shimmy up thereafter. I really enjoyed this, only took small cams, got stuck in and hoped for gear at the top. It felt like a stiff VS, but I have done a lot of this type of chimney and am quite small which makes a difference.
MichaelGallimore - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Rob

I literally puked on top of this route. Never again unless I take a size 6 cam. But memorable.
The Grist - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Tom Doldon

virtually unprotectable I'll be back armed with a big cam. Beware of the loose blocks below the chimney.
highclimber - AltLd dnf - 15/Mar/14

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Michael Allday - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/May/13

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Rupert Fleming

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13

Probably no harder than 4c but thats 4c every time you move a limbe:-) was awsome to second this
Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 30/Mar/13 with Simon huges

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/13 with ken, stuart lade

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Mar/13

Nick Biven - 2013

Lee started for Pear Tree Variation, but decided not to do, because it was overgrown. I took over and did this route. I struggled a lot (and appreciated immensely Friends 5&6) but the route was absolutely fantastic!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Lee P

Hidden - 2012

lead 1st pitch,. had to back off 2nd
mattorford - AltLd - 15/Oct/11

omg! fun to watch (i nearly wet myself watching Vince lead this one!), not quite so much fun to climb!
givemetea - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with Vince

Roz lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2
3 Names - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with Roslyn Mckendry

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/11

no cams so soloed the last pitch
Michael Allday - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with rodney greenfield

Hidden - 2011

The first pitch is way, way longer than the 80ft given in the definitive guide! The second pitch is brilliant, in an ungradeable horrorshow kind of a way. Would probably get HVDiff in the Peak District...
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Tony

Hidden - 2010

soph - Lead - 2010

soph - Lead - 2010

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Peter Hill

the juicy dangler - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with becky

sgl - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Mallard

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/08

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with sam read

The route description in North Wales rock is spot on! Great fun
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Sam Jones, Tom Barton

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with james andy

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Feb/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Andy Campbell - 2nd - May/05 with Sim

John Kettle - AltLd - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/02

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/02 with Chris Bird

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jan/98

steve taylor - 1994

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1991

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Glad I seconded
David Smith - 2nd - 1988 with charlie french

Hidden - 1984

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - 1980

ewar woowar - Lead - 1980

Falko - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/75 with Al W.

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

mikej - Lead - 12/Mar/67 with Keith Gregson

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/66

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gareth T, Happeuss, EyebrowTom, ianstevens, Stroppy, humptydumpty, waldenmatt, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Phil Layton, arandall, Sebastien Gastaud, dan ely, Alaina, nigel pearson, gilldando

Voting
Total votes cast 27
hard E12 of 10
E10 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard HVS5 of 10
HVS2 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard VS1 of 10
VS0 of 10
easy VS0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
hard 5b0 of 5
5b1 of 5
easy 5b0 of 5
hard 5a1 of 5
5a2 of 5
easy 5a0 of 5
hard 4c1 of 5
4c0 of 5
easy 4c0 of 5
3 Stars9 of 12
2 Stars2 of 12
1 Star1 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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