Rockfax Description
A mighty chimney with moves to match, it can feel anywhere between HVS and E3 depending of your chimneying abilities and the number of massive cams you own!
1) 35m. As for P1 of Poor Man's Peuterey, then continue straight up and left to a tree below the slot.
2) 5b, 18m. Get yourself into the chimney and use any means you can to get to the top. Breaststroke seems to work best. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Addicted to offwidths.

ross_spours 14/Oct Lead RP

Would have been onsight, but after getting into the chimney I realised i had racked badly so had to come back down and reorganise! Not all its racked up to be, would probably get VS in the Peaks (Not too tough if you like off widths and easily protectable with one size 5 and one size 6 cam)!

Hidden 30/Aug AltLd O/S
JRJones 30/Aug AltLd O/S

Chris took Chimney. not too bad on second. almost impossible to fall out of.

with chris
caradoc 18/Apr AltLd dnf

Normally I don't log DNF but this one stands out in the memory. Despite making virtually no movement I was pumped and exhausted after six or so metres. I became wedged and unable to turn my head(might be easier with no helmet) and curiously despite being unable to move I felt I could fall out of the chimney at any moment. I might go back for round two, not sure if it's worth it.

with Matt H.
UncleMephisto 17/Jan AltLd dnf

Next level suffering. Being run over by a bus would be more pleasant. A sacrificial nut two was left to appease the spirit of Whillans, anyone who likes a good grovel is welcome to it.

with Vasco Bull
JHC 23/Aug/14 -
MichaelGallimore 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Rob P1, me P2. Interesting climbing up to the chimney, and a challenging shimmy up thereafter. I really enjoyed this, only took small cams, got stuck in and hoped for gear at the top. It felt like a stiff VS, but I have done a lot of this type of chimney and am quite small which makes a difference.

with Rob
Mark Grist 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

I literally puked on top of this route. Never again unless I take a size 6 cam. But memorable.

with Tom Doldon
highclimber 15/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

virtually unprotectable I'll be back armed with a big cam. Beware of the loose blocks below the chimney.

mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Michael Allday 23/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC 27/Apr/13 Lead
with Rupert Fleming
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 30/Mar/13 2nd

Probably no harder than 4c but thats 4c every time you move a limbe:-) was awsome to second this

tim newton 12/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with ken, stuart lade
Hidden 12/Mar/13 2nd
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
masa-alpin 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Lee started for Pear Tree Variation, but decided not to do, because it was overgrown. I took over and did this route. I struggled a lot (and appreciated immensely Friends 5&6) but the route was absolutely fantastic!

with Lee P
Hidden ??/2012 -
mattorford 15/Oct/11 AltLd

lead 1st pitch,. had to back off 2nd

givemetea 22/Jul/11 2nd O/S

omg! fun to watch (i nearly wet myself watching Vince lead this one!), not quite so much fun to climb!

with Vince
3 Names 22/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Roz lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2

Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
Michael Allday ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

no cams so soloed the last pitch

with rodney greenfield
Hidden ??/2011 -
victim of mathematics 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S

The first pitch is way, way longer than the 80ft given in the definitive guide! The second pitch is brilliant, in an ungradeable horrorshow kind of a way. Would probably get HVDiff in the Peak District...

with Tony
Hidden ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 Lead
soph ??/2010 Lead
Derek Ryden 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter Hill
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
sgl 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Mallard
Hidden 17/Sep/08 Lead
dan gibson 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with sam read
Mike Goldthorp 31/May/08 Lead O/S

The route description in North Wales rock is spot on! Great fun

with Sam Jones, Tom Barton
Sgt. Vest 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with james andy
Hidden 09/Feb/08 2nd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Andy Campbell ?/May/05 2nd
with Sim
John Kettle ??/2003 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave 02/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Chris Bird
Hidden 29/Jan/98 AltLd
steve taylor ??/1994 -
Hidden 18/Jul/92 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
uphillnow ??/1988 2nd

Glad I seconded

with charlie french
Hidden ??/1984 -
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1980 -
ewar woowar ??/1980 Lead
Falko 22/Mar/75 Lead O/S
with Al W.
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
mikej 12/Mar/67 Lead
with Keith Gregson
Hidden 17/Jul/66 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jmpollard, Hidden, callumwaddell, Rotorslap, Gareth T, Happeuss, Hidden, EyebrowTom, Hidden, Stroppy, humptydumpty, waldenmatt, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Phil Layton, arandall, Sebastien Gastaud, dan ely, Hidden, Alaina, Hidden, nigel pearson, Hidden, gilldando, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set