UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).

The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info (when it is functional). There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Conie Montana from a left-hand sidepull in the break, cross over to a right crimp then left. Finish with your feet still in the break. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From a similar start at Montana it's possible to take a LH sidepull in the break cross over to a RH crimp then bust leftward to a vague finish with feet still in the break

James Jacobs Sep/2012.

Feedback

User Date Notes
SophieW 21 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Start jug is broken
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Start jug is broken
remus 17 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn\'t work out much of a difference between this and the normal version. Used a different sequence for the sake of it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't work out much of a difference between this and the normal version. Used a different sequence for the sake of it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cave Eliminate Start

Grade: f6A+ ***
(Stanage Popular)

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