The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).
The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info (when it is functional). There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.
Rockfax Description
Start as for Conie Montana from a left-hand sidepull in the break, cross over to a right crimp then left. Finish with your feet still in the break. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From a similar start at Montana it's possible to take a LH sidepull in the break cross over to a RH crimp then bust leftward to a vague finish with feet still in the break
James Jacobs Sep/2012.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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SophieW | 21 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Start jug is broken | βeta? | |
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βeta: Start jug is broken |
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remus | 17 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Couldn\'t work out much of a difference between this and the normal version. Used a different sequence for the sake of it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Couldn't work out much of a difference between this and the normal version. Used a different sequence for the sake of it. |
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Grade: f6A+ ***
(Stanage Popular)