Rockfax Description
A route of contrasts - it has roofs, slabs and cracks, wide bits, thin bits and blank bits. Start beneath the corner of Barbarian.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle.
2) 6a, 40m. Climb the chimney to the roof, then make a testing traverse left across the slab. Pull up over the roof then climb a crack until a short distance below a roof. Move right to another crack and then right again at another roof to a final crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

DubyaJamesDubya 22/May Lead dog
with Joe Harris
Ed Babs 23/Apr AltLd O/S

P2. Really tricky crux moving left at the overlap. Very tough for E2. Only made it with extreme encouragement from Sophie and Neil on the adjacent route to the left.

Mark Grist 17/Apr 2nd
with Tom Doldon
AdamFreeman 17/Apr TR dog
PaulTanton 17/Apr 2nd rpt
with Tom Doldon, Mark Grist
Hidden 23/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
JamieSparkes 11/Oct/15 2nd RP

Traverse is desperately cramped and awkward, ropes caused issues seconding when the got stuck on the wrong side of the overhang. Was glad that the actual pull through the roof was so straightforward on a couple of sinker fingerlocks. Top slab quite harsh on the feet!

with amccann
amccann 11/Oct/15 AltLd RP

Previously fallen on the traverse under the roof.

with Jamie
Hannes B 17/Sep/15 2nd

Very tricky! Good effort Neil

with Neil C
duncandarnell 15/Jul/15 Lead dog

Got spanked, felt as hard if not harder than silly just less airy, but i climbed it like a goose

with dave smith
Ewan Russell 11/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

lead crux of pincushion then reversed quakerman traverse to come up on the crux of PMP. Tom then lead harvey proctors

with Tom Nichols
Hidden ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
mynyddresident 12/Oct/14 -
with KP
mikeyjbs 16/Aug/14 Lead dog

Shocking protection for an E2....

with mat downes
mynyddresident 10/Aug/14 Lead dog

ballsed it up hanging around placing shoddy kit at overlap, boo.

with KP
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead dog
Ewano 13/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Didn't commit to the move the get the tat, felt hard and hot. Definitely one to come back to.

Hidden 13/Jun/14 AltLd dnf
MichaelGallimore 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Rob P1, Me P2. Such a blank looking slab in the guidebook- the route was one I'd black marked as a 'don't even go there' as I'm terrible at slabs. Naturally this made me want to do it even more. Peered over from PMP to find a perfect crack running up the slab, making the climb seem less daunting. Stars finally aligned when barbarian was occupied and it was either pincushion or vector left on my list. Rob polished off the first pitch and belayed from tree. I jumped in the chimney, awoke an owl, built a nest of my own then committed to smears and probed the roof, bricking it all the way. 2 quickdraws remaining at start of slab, I had to get creative with runners. Love the angular overhangs and black slabs. Felt elated at the top, and privillaged to have climbed such a varied and well composed route!

with Rob
Lenny 18/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Phil .N
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead dnf
J.Wells 10/Apr/14 2nd
with Sadie Renwick
Dan724 26/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Massively underestimated how hard and awkward it would be getting over the bulge prior to the roof, nearly lost it!

BenRyle 26/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Chuffed to get this, felt similar in difficulty to Silly!

with Dan
Hidden 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Fragmod 07/Mar/14 Lead
DanielGyi 07/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Moving to and gaining the crack felt really hard for 5c. Cool route though.

Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 13/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Alex tried P2 but fell at the crux. I had a go and had just pulled through the overlap as it started raining. Good job the final cracks are about HVS. Bloody good.

amccann 13/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Spent ages faffing around under the overhang, got the upper crack but didn't have the strength to pull myself through the overhang. Will be back soon.

Ed morris 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Led both pitches, did the direct finish up the steep corner.

with -martin
Dan Mckinlay ?/Jun/13 -
dswansonlow 19/May/13 2nd O/S
shed_hed 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Epic battle getting to the roof, but I made it.

Matt Cooke 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Ben1983 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Voltemands 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

3*'s for a reason. Well protected crux, just go for it.

Si dH 01/Apr/13 Lead dog

Those crux moves left are desperate. Somehow managed to find myself at the move through the roof but was too physically and mentally exhausted to do anything other than grab the draw when id managed to fiddle a nut in the finger crack above. Rested on that for a bit then pulled through and finished it Would recommend taking a friend 3.5-4 size cam...i didnt.

with Chris Foster
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd rpt
Andy Peak 1 30/Mar/13 Lead

Got syked after looking up at silly aret and bumbeld about on the overhang like a nob:-) not to hard if you actuley climb it and dont faff

tim newton 12/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with ken, stuart lade
Hidden 12/Mar/13 2nd
wi11 28/Feb/13 Lead dnf

Awkward. Want to get back on this!

with Brian
Alex Mason 15/Jan/13 Lead O/S

First route of the year. I fucking LOVE trad climbing! Accidently took two right boots.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 27/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Bruce Houston ?/Jul/12 Lead
with Mike
james.slater 16/May/12 Lead dog

Ah! Slipped off the smears under the overhang, its bloody hard! The overhang isnt too bad once youve got the crack, and i think E2 is fair, the crux is well protected, and the upper slab is full of gear, lovely route!

markalmack 06/May/12 2nd O/S


david morse 06/May/12 Lead rpt

Hard for E2!

Hidden 05/Apr/12 Lead dog
Liam FLeming 06/Mar/12 -
with tim harrop
Hidden ??/2012 -
spidey 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with adam
Hidden 01/Sep/11 AltLd dog
andy mcc 01/Sep/11 2nd dog

Needed a pull up through the overhang

with Robin Nicholson
willoates 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Hard and pretty bold for E2 6a I thought. the pull over the roof is actually not that hard when you commit.

with Iona
mynyddresident 23/Jul/11 AltLd dog

P1, Wolf took the main pitch. Ermm a bit warm for this today, shoes and hands were sketching off holds and the jams slipping, note to self...lead when cool.

with wolf
wolf.leeb 23/Jul/11 Lead dog

boo.. 1 rest.

with nic
dan ely 22/Jun/11 Lead dog

a bit of a joke

with tony (army)
Nigel Bond 11/Jun/11 AltLd
with Bern Hardman
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 02/May/11 2nd
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Michael Allday ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with rodney greenfield
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Mike Goldthorp 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Crux didnt feel as desperate as its reputation precedes, but still awkward underneath the roof and tricky to get over it, but gear is pretty bomb, if a little pumpy to place.

with Dunken
mr mills 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Elfyn (chang), Gareth
Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd dog
DavidR 18/Aug/10 AltLd dog

Kev - pitch 1; me - pitch 2. Brilliant but hard. A desperate contorted move to clip the tat, and then very tenuous smearing out left. No idea how my feet stayed on! Fell off as I was trying to stuff my fingers in the crack over the roof, when a foot popped off a non-existent edge (i.e. after the crux, if that's the traverse). Fantastic climbing!

Hidden 16/Jul/10 2nd dog
Dale ?/Jul/10 Lead dog

got across the slab very acuward but goin well. got to the lip of the overhang and screwed up puting the gear in got pumped went back down to peg. then screwed it up another two three tines and struggled over the overhang. The top slab is brilliant. 3 star route really got me going

with johny
Byronius Maximus 30/May/10 AltLd dog

Couldn't do the crux first try, bloody good effort from Remus.

Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
switch 09/May/10 2nd
with Leanne
smallerrich 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2. Awkward as fudge, had to fight, left me feeling drained. Verging on sandbag.

with Crad
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 03/May/10 2nd
with Geoff Bennett
ksjs 07/Mar/10 2nd dog

possibly the worst choice for 1st trad route of the year for me: my nemesis venue and totally alien style; i worked out what to do but just didnt believe it was right / at the grade. maybe hardest E2 ive been on or just early season uselessness? 2 rests, 1 after traverse and another after gave up on 1st attempt to pull onto slab :(

with jo
mr mills ??/2010 -
with Gareth
Hidden ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
centurion05 ??/2010 -
Hidden 03/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Jez 03/Oct/09 Lead dog

Had to rest just before final pull over, which in the end was fairly simple. Beautiful route, top and bottom sections were amazing... the overlap was 'delicate'.

with NJSharp
Luke Brooks 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
barni 21/Sep/09 Lead β
Liam FLeming 21/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with barni
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 25/Aug/09 2nd dog
Glyn 16/Aug/09 Lead β

Hard! Made it just about. Top cracks could do with some gardening

with Jade
AdrianP 27/Jul/09 Lead RP
with Olli
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
jade Edwards Leaney 03/May/09 Lead

two attempts for the overhang, fekin hard.

with gav
DavidEvans 22/Mar/09 2nd
en7edh ??/2009 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
jfreeman 30/Nov/08 2nd
simonr 30/Nov/08 Lead O/S
barni 27/Oct/08 Lead dnf

rained off. got to the crack above overlap

Dan 85 18/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Excellent, think 5c is fair.

with Tats
tatz45 18/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

mikelaing ?/Oct/08 2nd
with Pete Harrison
Toby Dunn 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with JulesV
popov86 19/May/08 2nd
ksjs 20/Apr/08 Lead dnf

didnt finish - downclimbed from crux? seemed like dubious gear for E2 6a.

with sarah
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
gregoritos ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Lead dog
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 25/Oct/06 Lead
Chad123 ?/Sep/06 AltLd dog

End of a bad day's climbing! Tried it free then gave up and pulled on the rusty peg - seemed thin for 5c! Nice climbing though, including some fun chimney moves - have to go back and do silly arete some time, looks good too.

with Emily
Hidden 30/Aug/06 2nd
KRB 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
Owain Llewelyn ?/May/06 Lead

Used a point of aid on the roof

with Andy N
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Ben1983 ?/Jun/05 Lead dog
Iggy_B ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Fred - DMM
tom.e ??/2005 2nd dog
with Charlie Everett
sadams 08/Apr/04 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Apr/03 Lead
Mark Riley ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd

hard at the roof!!

with Dave A
Hidden 07/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave 02/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Chris Bird
chrishedgehog ??/2002 Lead dog

1 aid pt to adhere to tradition of course!

with Joe Thompson
akhughes ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya 02/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
timbanton ?/Aug/00 -
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
philhilo ??/2000 AltLd
with brian rodgers, Trevor Box
WB 03/Oct/98 Lead O/S
with Nicola, Paul
Hidden 16/May/98 2nd O/S
Guy ??/1998 -
zero six ??/1998 Lead dog

Have never done this clean over the years.

Hidden ?/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
mikedelderfield 20/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
ste_d 20/Jul/96 2nd O/S
with mik
frost ?/Jul/96 2nd
with S Raw
michael burrows 25/Feb/96 Lead rpt
with brian jones
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Big Rik ??/1995 -
shoulders 02/Jun/94 Lead
shoulders 02/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/94 AltLd
Budge ??/1994 Lead rpt
with Ceri Jones
Hidden 10/Oct/93 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones 21/Aug/93 AltLd
steveb2006 03/May/93 2nd

Lead first pitch

with Simon Mee
Hidden 01/May/93 2nd
Budge ?/May/93 AltLd dog
with Dave Macarthy
crossleysm ?/May/93 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead RP
tlr 12/Oct/91 AltLd
with Cal
Rob Davies 30/Aug/91 Lead

Backed off this previously. Having reached upper slab, I had to lower down to fix longer sling beneath overhang before moving on - not clever.

with Chris Pearson, Angus McLean
petemeads ?/Aug/91 Lead

Seemed relatively straightforward so followed up with Silly Arete, an even better route and the last hard climb compleetd before retirement from the scene (for 18 years).First climbed Pincushion on 13 March 1976 with Dave Unwin.

with Tristan Olivier
Hidden 20/Jun/91 Lead
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead
whispering nic ?/Oct/90 -
with Graham Iles
Rich Kirby 13/Jun/90 2nd
with Andy Mackay
DDDD ??/1990 -
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden 24/Sep/89 Lead
mark-abz 17/Aug/89 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 -
Hidden 02/Oct/88 Lead
Dave Douglas 30/Jul/88 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/88 Lead O/S
michael burrows 25/Mar/88 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
Derek Ryden ??/1988 Lead O/S

1 pt aid

with Krishna
Hidden 27/Aug/87 Lead rpt
Bruce Kerr 21/Jul/87 Lead
with Johnny May
Hidden 21/Jun/87 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/87 Lead rpt
sadams 15/Apr/87 2nd
with Guy Townsend
steve taylor ?/Jul/86 Lead dog

First attempt at leading E2 - fell off overlap.

with Matt ????
steve taylor ?/Jul/86 Lead
with Matt ????
wynaptomos ?/Jun/86 2nd O/S
keefe 03/May/86 -
steveb2006 19/Oct/85 Lead

Led main pitch

with Dave O'Dowd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 14/Sep/85 Lead
Hidden 18/May/85 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/85 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1985 -
Steve Crowe ??/1985 -
neilh 11/Oct/84 2nd O/S
with simon webster
Hammy 02/Sep/84 Lead
with Penny Excel
Lone Rider 05/Aug/84 AltLd
with Alan Shand
sadams 06/May/84 Lead dnf
with Chris Thwaites
Hidden 20/Apr/84 AltLd
Hidden ??/1984 2nd
Hidden ??/1984 -
Rob Davies ??/1984 Lead dnf

Couldn't manage traverse L

with Angus McLean
stp 18/Nov/83 Lead β
Pete Pozman 17/Sep/83 2nd O/S

Used aid to pass overhang (HVS)

with Pog
Ian Jones ??/1983 -
Tim Sparrow ??/1983 -

Done this about 4 times now I think - always excellent.

steveboote ??/1982 Lead

Used peg

Hidden 03/Jan/81 2nd
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 2nd
ewar woowar ??/1981 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/80 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 28/Jun/80 Lead
with Wawa
rogerskews 27/Jan/80 AltLd

You wonder why you are making such a fuss when Ron Fawcett suddenly appears soloing Silly Arete beside you! He was actually really friendly and stopped to chat.

with John Blackburn, Martin Coward
Ian Clare ??/1980 -
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Mike Owen 25/Aug/79 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1979 AltLd
with Alan Walmsley
Hidden ??/1979 Lead
Mike Owen 01/Sep/78 2nd rpt
with Dave ?
steve L 28/Aug/78 Lead
with Lyndsey
Hidden 23/Apr/78 Lead
Mike Owen 24/Mar/78 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
Hidden ??/1978 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 15/Oct/77 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
Mike Owen 15/Oct/77 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
Dave Musgrove 31/Jul/77 AltLd
with George Hounsome
GeoffG 08/Apr/77 2nd
Mike Owen 01/Aug/76 Lead rpt
with Pete White
uphillnow ??/1976 Lead

Had done the climb as a hvs with the aid point first with Pete Clayton about 1968. Led the modern version without the aid point once this was eliminated. Done periodically, most recently with Phil Gibson about 2007

with Al Bennett
Andy Edgar ??/1976 Lead
Mike Owen ?/Nov/75 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
Bolt Phobia 23/Feb/75 Lead O/S
pneame ??/1975 -
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Tom V ??/1973 -
kjacks ??/1973 2nd

With the aid, thought it was very hard!

Martin Bennett 27/Apr/72 -
with RA
RichardMc 08/Jan/72 Lead O/S
with Roger Everett
Gordon Stainforth 31/Oct/69 2nd

With c. 3 pegs for aid (then standard) Mike fell off crux three times before succeeding.

with Mike Danford
mikej 12/Apr/67 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 43
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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