Shocking protection for an E2....mikeyjbs - Lead dog - 16/Aug/14 with mat downes
ballsed it up hanging around placing shoddy kit at overlap, boo.
mynyddresident - Lead dog - 10/Aug/14 with KP
Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Jul/14
Didn't commit to the move the get the tat, felt hard and hot. Definitely one to come back to.
Ewano - AltLd dnf - 13/Jun/14 with Pete Danson
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 13/Jun/14
Rob P1, Me P2. Such a blank looking slab in the guidebook- the route was one I'd black marked as a 'don't even go there' as I'm terrible at slabs. Naturally this made me want to do it even more. Peered over from PMP to find a perfect crack running up the slab, making the climb seem less daunting. Stars finally aligned when barbarian was occupied and it was either pincushion or vector left on my list. Rob polished off the first pitch and belayed from tree. I jumped in the chimney, awoke an owl, built a nest of my own then committed to smears and probed the roof, bricking it all the way. 2 quickdraws remaining at start of slab, I had to get creative with runners. Love the angular overhangs and black slabs. Felt elated at the top, and privillaged to have climbed such a varied and well composed route!
MichaelGallimore - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Rob
Lenny - Lead dog - 18/Apr/14 with Phil .N
Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/14
J.Wells - 2nd - 10/Apr/14 with Sadie Renwick
Massively underestimated how hard and awkward it would be getting over the bulge prior to the roof, nearly lost it!
Dan724 - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Ben Ryle
Chuffed to get this, felt similar in difficulty to Silly!
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Dan
Climbed with Jon wells and he found it desperate because he's tall.
Sadie - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14
Fragmod - Lead - 07/Mar/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/14
Frank the Husky - 2014
Hidden - 2014
mike mo - 2014
mike mo - 2014
mike mo - 2014
mike mo - 2014
mike mo - 2014
mike mo - 2014
IanGilbertJones - 2014
Alex tried P2 but fell at the crux. I had a go and had just pulled through the overlap as it started raining. Good job the final cracks are about HVS. Bloody good.
Matthew Ferrier - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with Alex McCann
Spent ages faffing around under the overhang, got the upper crack but didn't have the strength to pull myself through the overhang. Will be back soon.
amccann - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/13
Led both pitches, did the direct finish up the steep corner.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with -martin
Dan Mckinlay - Jun/13
dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Darren McMaster
Epic battle getting to the roof, but I made it.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low
Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Tom Jagger
Ben1983 - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/13
3*'s for a reason. Well protected crux, just go for it.
Voltemands - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Carlene HIll
Those crux moves left are desperate. Somehow managed to find myself at the move through the roof but was too physically and mentally exhausted to do anything other than grab the draw when id managed to fiddle a nut in the finger crack above. Rested on that for a bit then pulled through and finished it
Would recommend taking a friend 3.5-4 size cam...i didnt.
Si dH - Lead dog - 01/Apr/13 with Chris Foster
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Mar/13
Got syked after looking up at silly aret and bumbeld about on the overhang like a nob:-) not to hard if you actuley climb it and dont faff
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with Simon huges
tim newton - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/13 with ken, stuart lade
Hidden - 2nd - 12/Mar/13
Awkward. Want to get back on this!
wi11 - Lead dnf - 28/Feb/13 with Brian
First route of the year. I fucking LOVE trad climbing! Accidently took two right boots.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/13 with Tom Ripley
Nick Biven - 2013
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12
Michael Allday - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/12 with Bruce Houston
Bruce Houston - Lead - Jul/12 with Mike
Ah! Slipped off the smears under the overhang, its bloody hard! The overhang isnt too bad once youve got the crack, and i think E2 is fair, the crux is well protected, and the upper slab is full of gear, lovely route!
vertigo714 - Lead dog - 16/May/12 with Tom Morgan
markalmack - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Dave morse
Hard for E2!
david morse - Lead rpt - 06/May/12 with markalmack
Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Apr/12
Liam FLeming - 06/Mar/12 with tim harrop
Hidden - 2012
spidey - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with adam
Hidden - AltLd dog - 01/Sep/11
Needed a pull up through the overhang
andy mcc - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/11 with Robin Nicholson
Hard and pretty bold for E2 6a I thought. the pull over the roof is actually not that hard when you commit.
willoates - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Iona
P1, Wolf took the main pitch. Ermm a bit warm for this today, shoes and hands were sketching off holds and the jams slipping, note to self...lead when cool.
mynyddresident - AltLd dog - 23/Jul/11 with wolf
boo.. 1 rest.
wolf.leeb - Lead dog - 23/Jul/11 with nic
a bit of a joke
dan ely - Lead dog - 22/Jun/11 with tony (army)
Nigel Bond - AltLd - 11/Jun/11 with Bern Hardman
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/11
Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 02/May/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11
Michael Allday - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with rodney greenfield
Rory Shaw - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
PAJames - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Crux didnt feel as desperate as its reputation precedes, but still awkward underneath the roof and tricky to get over it, but gear is pretty bomb, if a little pumpy to place.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Dunken
mr mills - Lead rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Elfyn (chang), Gareth
Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd dog - 18/Aug/10
Kev - pitch 1; me - pitch 2. Brilliant but hard. A desperate contorted move to clip the tat, and then very tenuous smearing out left. No idea how my feet stayed on! Fell off as I was trying to stuff my fingers in the crack over the roof, when a foot popped off a non-existent edge (i.e. after the crux, if that's the traverse). Fantastic climbing!
DavidR - AltLd dog - 18/Aug/10 with Kevin Bowser
Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Jul/10
got across the slab very acuward but goin well. got to the lip of the overhang and screwed up puting the gear in got pumped went back down to peg. then screwed it up another two three tines and struggled over the overhang. The top slab is brilliant. 3 star route really got me going
Dale - Lead dog - Jul/10 with johny
Couldn't do the crux first try, bloody good effort from Remus.
Byronius Maximus - AltLd dog - 30/May/10 with Remus Knowles
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/10
switch - 2nd - 09/May/10 with Leanne
Pitch 2. Awkward as fudge, had to fight, left me feeling drained. Verging on sandbag.
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Crad
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/May/10
Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/10
possibly the worst choice for 1st trad route of the year for me: my nemesis venue and totally alien style; i worked out what to do but just didnt believe it was right / at the grade. maybe hardest E2 ive been on or just early season uselessness? 2 rests, 1 after traverse and another after gave up on 1st attempt to pull onto slab :(
ksjs - 2nd dog - 07/Mar/10 with jo
mr mills - 2010 with Gareth
Hidden - 2010
simeclimb68 - 2010
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - 2010
centurion05 - 2010
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/09
Had to rest just before final pull over, which in the end was fairly simple. Beautiful route, top and bottom sections were amazing... the overlap was 'delicate'.
Jez - Lead dog - 03/Oct/09 with NJSharp
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09
barni - Lead β - 21/Sep/09 with Liam fleming
Liam FLeming - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/09 with barni
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09
Richard Horn - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/09
Hard! Made it just about. Top cracks could do with some gardening
Glyn - Lead β - 16/Aug/09 with Jade
Eetu - Lead RP - 27/Jul/09 with Olli
E2? Ha! Desperate.
Ally Smith - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with alaan
two attempts for the overhang, fekin hard.
jade Edwards Leaney - Lead - 03/May/09 with gav
MONKEY78 - 2nd - 22/Mar/09 with adam ellwood
en7edh - 2nd - 2009
Seymore Butt - 2009
jfreeman - 2nd - 30/Nov/08 with Simon Robinson
simonr - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/08 with Jon Freeman
rained off. got to the crack above overlap
barni - Lead dnf - 27/Oct/08 with Liam fleming
Excellent, think 5c is fair.
Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Tats
Led first pitch
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Dan Woolnough
mikelaing - 2nd - Oct/08 with Pete Harrison
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with JulesV
popov86 - 2nd - 19/May/08
didnt finish - downclimbed from crux? seemed like dubious gear for E2 6a.
ksjs - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/08 with sarah
Sean Kelly - 2008
Marcus - 2008
gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jun/07
Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Apr/07
tumbling wizard - Lead - Mar/07
Rob Kennard - 2007
climber sim - 2007
Hidden - Lead - 25/Oct/06
End of a bad day's climbing! Tried it free then gave up and pulled on the rusty peg - seemed thin for 5c! Nice climbing though, including some fun chimney moves - have to go back and do silly arete some time, looks good too.
Chad123 - AltLd dog - Sep/06 with Emily
Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/06
KRB - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/06 with Chris & Martin
Used a point of aid on the roof
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - May/06 with Andy N
Hidden - 2006
Boy - 2006
Ben1983 - Lead dog - Jun/05
Iggy_B - Lead O/S - May/05 with Fred - DMM
tom.e - 2nd dog - 2005 with Charlie Everett
sadams - 2nd - 08/Apr/04 with Eric Hildrew
nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Apr/03
Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Apr/03
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/03
hard at the roof!!
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 2003 with Dave A
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/02
Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/02 with Chris Bird
1 aid pt to adhere to tradition of course!
chrishedgehog - Lead dog - 2002 with Joe Thompson
akhughes - Lead O/S - 2002
Hidden - 2002
Hidden - Aug/00
Marti999 - AltLd - 2000
philhilo - AltLd - 2000 with brian rodgers, Trevor Box
WB - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/98 with Nicola, Paul
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/May/98
Guy - 1998
Have never done this clean over the years.
zero six - Lead dog - 1998
Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/96 with Steven Delderfield
ste_d - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/96 with mik
frost - 2nd - Jul/96 with S Raw
michael burrows - Lead rpt - 25/Feb/96 with brian jones
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996
Big Rik - 1995
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/94
Budge - Lead rpt - 1994 with Ceri Jones
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/93
Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/93
Hidden - 2nd - 01/May/93
Budge - AltLd dog - May/93 with Dave Macarthy
Hidden - Lead - 1993
tlr - AltLd - 12/Oct/91 with Cal
Seemed relatively straightforward so followed up with Silly Arete, an even better route and the last hard climb compleetd before retirement from the scene (for 18 years).First climbed Pincushion on 13 March 1976 with Dave Unwin.
petemeads - Lead - Aug/91 with Tristan Olivier
ChrisJD - Lead - 20/Jun/91
Chris Wright - Lead - 30/May/91
whispering nic - Oct/90 with Graham Iles
Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/90
DDDD - 1990
Bob - 1990
Hidden - 1990
andy gittins - Lead - 1990
Hidden - Lead - 24/Sep/89
mark-abz - Lead - 17/Aug/89 with Andy W
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989
Hidden - 1989
Hidden - Lead - 02/Oct/88
Dave Douglas - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/88
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/88
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/88 with pete roberts
1 pt aid
Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 1988 with Krishna
Bruce Kerr - Lead - 21/Jul/87 with Johnny May
Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/87
sadams - 2nd - 15/Apr/87 with Guy Townsend
First attempt at leading E2 - fell off overlap.
steve taylor - Lead dog - Jul/86 with Matt ????
steve taylor - Lead - Jul/86 with Matt ????
keefe - 03/May/86
Hidden - Lead - 19/Oct/85
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 14/Sep/85
Hidden - Lead - 18/May/85
Hidden - 1985
Steve Crowe - 1985
neilh - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/84 with simon webster
Hammy - Lead - 02/Sep/84 with Penny Excel
sadams - Lead dnf - 06/May/84 with Chris Thwaites
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Apr/84
Needed all the help I could get at the overlap but did ok thereafter.
Simon2005 - 2nd - 1984 with JimB
Melok - 1984
stp - Lead β - 18/Nov/83
Used aid to pass overhang (HVS)
Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/83 with Pog
Ian Jones - 1983
Done this about 4 times now I think - always excellent.
Tim Sparrow - 1983
Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jan/81
Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981
ewar woowar - 2nd - 1981
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/80
Mark Kemball - Lead - 28/Jun/80 with Wawa
You wonder why you are making such a fuss when Ron Fawcett suddenly appears soloing Silly Arete beside you! He was actually really friendly and stopped to chat.
rogerskews - AltLd - 27/Jan/80 with John Blackburn, Martin Coward
Ian Clare - 1980
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1979 with Alan Walmsley
Hidden - Lead - 1979
steve L - Lead - 28/Aug/78 with Lyndsey
Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/78
ian caton - Lead O/S - 1978
Mike Owen - 15/Oct/77 with John Roberts
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 31/Jul/77 with George Hounsome
GeoffG - 2nd - 08/Apr/77
Had done the climb as a hvs with the aid point first with Pete Clayton about 1968. Led the modern version without the aid point once this was eliminated. Done periodically, most recently with Phil Gibson about 2007
David Smith - Lead - 1976 with Al Bennett
Bolt Phobia - Lead - 23/Feb/75
pneame - 1975
granitbahn - AltLd - 1975
Tom V - 1973
RichardMc - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/72 with Roger Everett
With c. 3 pegs for aid (then standard) Mike fell off crux three times before succeeding.
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 31/Oct/69 with Mike Danford
mikej - AltLd - 12/Apr/67 with Mike Byles