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Pincushion** E2 5c

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[Joel Charley on Pincushion, 2 kb]A route of contrasts - it has roofs, slabs and cracks, wide bits, thin bits and blank bits. Start beneath the corner of Barbarian. 1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle. 2) 6a, 40m. Climb the chimney to the roof, then make a testing traverse left across the slab. Pull up over the roof then climb a crack until a short distance below a roof. Move right to another crack and then right again at another roof to a final crack. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Joel Charley on Pincushion © Mark Alderson
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 217 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Jul/14

Didn't commit to the move the get the tat, felt hard and hot. Definitely one to come back to.
Ewano - AltLd dnf - 13/Jun/14 with Pete Danson

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 13/Jun/14

Rob P1, Me P2. Such a blank looking slab in the guidebook- the route was one I'd black marked as a 'don't even go there' as I'm terrible at slabs. Naturally this made me want to do it even more. Peered over from PMP to find a perfect crack running up the slab, making the climb seem less daunting. Stars finally aligned when barbarian was occupied and it was either pincushion or vector left on my list. Rob polished off the first pitch and belayed from tree. I jumped in the chimney, awoke an owl, built a nest of my own then committed to smears and probed the roof, bricking it all the way. 2 quickdraws remaining at start of slab, I had to get creative with runners. Love the angular overhangs and black slabs. Felt elated at the top, and privillaged to have climbed such a varied and well composed route!
MichaelGallimore - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Rob

Lenny - Lead dog - 18/Apr/14 with Phil .N

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/14

J.Wells - 2nd - 10/Apr/14 with Sadie Renwick

Massively underestimated how hard and awkward it would be getting over the bulge prior to the roof, nearly lost it!
Dan724 - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Ben Ryle

Chuffed to get this, felt similar in difficulty to Silly!
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Dan

Climbed with Jon wells and he found it desperate because he's tall.
Sadie - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14

Fragmod - Lead - 07/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/14

Frank the Husky - 2014

Hidden - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

muppett - 2014

Alex tried P2 but fell at the crux. I had a go and had just pulled through the overlap as it started raining. Good job the final cracks are about HVS. Bloody good.
Matthew Ferrier - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with Alex McCann

Spent ages faffing around under the overhang, got the upper crack but didn't have the strength to pull myself through the overhang. Will be back soon.
amccann - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/13

Led both pitches, did the direct finish up the steep corner.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with -martin

Dan Mckinlay - Jun/13

dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Darren McMaster

Epic battle getting to the roof, but I made it.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Tom Jagger

Ben1983 - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/13

3*'s for a reason. Well protected crux, just go for it.
Voltemands - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Carlene HIll

Those crux moves left are desperate. Somehow managed to find myself at the move through the roof but was too physically and mentally exhausted to do anything other than grab the draw when id managed to fiddle a nut in the finger crack above. Rested on that for a bit then pulled through and finished it Would recommend taking a friend 3.5-4 size cam...i didnt.
Si dH - Lead dog - 01/Apr/13 with Chris Foster

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Mar/13

Got syked after looking up at silly aret and bumbeld about on the overhang like a nob:-) not to hard if you actuley climb it and dont faff
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with Simon huges

tim newton - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/13 with ken, stuart lade

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Mar/13

Awkward. Want to get back on this!
wi11 - Lead dnf - 28/Feb/13 with Brian

First route of the year. I fucking LOVE trad climbing! Accidently took two right boots.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/13 with Tom Ripley

Nick Biven - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

Michael Allday - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/12 with Bruce Houston

Bruce Houston - Lead - Jul/12 with Mike

Ah! Slipped off the smears under the overhang, its bloody hard! The overhang isnt too bad once youve got the crack, and i think E2 is fair, the crux is well protected, and the upper slab is full of gear, lovely route!
vertigo714 - Lead dog - 16/May/12 with Tom Morgan

tricky!
markalmack - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Dave morse

Hard for E2!
david morse - Lead rpt - 06/May/12 with markalmack

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Apr/12

Liam FLeming - 06/Mar/12 with tim harrop

Hidden - 2012

spidey - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with adam

Hidden - AltLd dog - 01/Sep/11

Needed a pull up through the overhang
andy mcc - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/11 with Robin Nicholson

Hard and pretty bold for E2 6a I thought. the pull over the roof is actually not that hard when you commit.
willoates - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Iona

P1, Wolf took the main pitch. Ermm a bit warm for this today, shoes and hands were sketching off holds and the jams slipping, note to self...lead when cool.
mynyddresident - AltLd dog - 23/Jul/11 with wolf

boo.. 1 rest.
wolf.leeb - Lead dog - 23/Jul/11 with nic

a bit of a joke
dan ely - Lead dog - 22/Jun/11 with tony (army)

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 11/Jun/11 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/11

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 02/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with rodney greenfield

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Crux didnt feel as desperate as its reputation precedes, but still awkward underneath the roof and tricky to get over it, but gear is pretty bomb, if a little pumpy to place.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Dunken

mr mills - Lead rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Elfyn (chang), Gareth

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd dog - 18/Aug/10

Kev - pitch 1; me - pitch 2. Brilliant but hard. A desperate contorted move to clip the tat, and then very tenuous smearing out left. No idea how my feet stayed on! Fell off as I was trying to stuff my fingers in the crack over the roof, when a foot popped off a non-existent edge (i.e. after the crux, if that's the traverse). Fantastic climbing!
DavidR - AltLd dog - 18/Aug/10 with Kevin Bowser

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Jul/10

got across the slab very acuward but goin well. got to the lip of the overhang and screwed up puting the gear in got pumped went back down to peg. then screwed it up another two three tines and struggled over the overhang. The top slab is brilliant. 3 star route really got me going
Dale - Lead dog - Jul/10 with johny

Couldn't do the crux first try, bloody good effort from Remus.
Byronius Maximus - AltLd dog - 30/May/10 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

switch - 2nd - 09/May/10 with Leanne

Pitch 2. Awkward as fudge, had to fight, left me feeling drained. Verging on sandbag.
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Crad

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/10

possibly the worst choice for 1st trad route of the year for me: my nemesis venue and totally alien style; i worked out what to do but just didnt believe it was right / at the grade. maybe hardest E2 ive been on or just early season uselessness? 2 rests, 1 after traverse and another after gave up on 1st attempt to pull onto slab :(
ksjs - 2nd dog - 07/Mar/10 with jo

mr mills - 2010 with Gareth

Hidden - 2010

simeclimb68 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

centurion05 - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/09

Had to rest just before final pull over, which in the end was fairly simple. Beautiful route, top and bottom sections were amazing... the overlap was 'delicate'.
Jez - Lead dog - 03/Oct/09 with NJSharp

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09

barni - Lead β - 21/Sep/09 with Liam fleming

Liam FLeming - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/09 with barni

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09

Richard Horn - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/09

Hard! Made it just about. Top cracks could do with some gardening
Glyn - Lead β - 16/Aug/09 with Jade

Eetu - Lead RP - 27/Jul/09 with Olli

E2? Ha! Desperate.
Ally Smith - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with alaan

two attempts for the overhang, fekin hard.
jade Edwards Leaney - Lead - 03/May/09 with gav

MONKEY78 - 2nd - 22/Mar/09 with adam ellwood

en7edh - 2nd - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

jfreeman - 2nd - 30/Nov/08 with Simon Robinson

simonr - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/08 with Jon Freeman

rained off. got to the crack above overlap
barni - Lead dnf - 27/Oct/08 with Liam fleming

Excellent, think 5c is fair.
Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Tats

Led first pitch
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Dan Woolnough

mikelaing - 2nd - Oct/08 with Pete Harrison

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with JulesV

popov86 - 2nd - 19/May/08

didnt finish - downclimbed from crux? seemed like dubious gear for E2 6a.
ksjs - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/08 with sarah

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - 2008

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jun/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Apr/07

tumbling wizard - Lead - Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 25/Oct/06

End of a bad day's climbing! Tried it free then gave up and pulled on the rusty peg - seemed thin for 5c! Nice climbing though, including some fun chimney moves - have to go back and do silly arete some time, looks good too.
Chad123 - AltLd dog - Sep/06 with Emily

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/06

KRB - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/06 with Chris & Martin

Used a point of aid on the roof
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - May/06 with Andy N

Hidden - 2006

Boy - 2006

Ben1983 - Lead dog - Jun/05

Iggy_B - Lead O/S - May/05 with Fred - DMM

tom.e - 2nd dog - 2005 with Charlie Everett

sadams - 2nd - 08/Apr/04 with Eric Hildrew

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Apr/03

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/02

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/02 with Chris Bird

1 aid pt to adhere to tradition of course!
chrishedgehog - Lead dog - 2002 with Joe Thompson

akhughes - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Aug/00

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

philhilo - AltLd - 2000 with brian rodgers, Trevor Box

WB - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/98 with Nicola, Paul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/May/98

Guy - 1998

Have never done this clean over the years.
zero six - Lead dog - 1998

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/96 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/96 with mik

frost - 2nd - Jul/96 with S Raw

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 25/Feb/96 with brian jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Big Rik - 1995

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/94

Budge - Lead rpt - 1994 with Ceri Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/93

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/93

Hidden - 2nd - 01/May/93

Budge - AltLd dog - May/93 with Dave Macarthy

Hidden - Lead - 1993

tlr - AltLd - 12/Oct/91 with Cal

Seemed relatively straightforward so followed up with Silly Arete, an even better route and the last hard climb compleetd before retirement from the scene (for 18 years).First climbed Pincushion on 13 March 1976 with Dave Unwin.
petemeads - Lead - Aug/91 with Tristan Olivier

ChrisJD - Lead - 20/Jun/91

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/91

whispering nic - Oct/90 with Graham Iles

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 13/Jun/90 with Andy Mackay

DDDD - 1990

Bob - 1990

Hidden - 1990

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 24/Sep/89

mark-abz - Lead - 17/Aug/89 with Andy W

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 02/Oct/88

Dave Douglas - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/88

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/88 with pete roberts

1 pt aid
Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 1988 with Krishna

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 21/Jul/87 with Johnny May

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/87

sadams - 2nd - 15/Apr/87 with Guy Townsend

First attempt at leading E2 - fell off overlap.
steve taylor - Lead dog - Jul/86 with Matt ????

steve taylor - Lead - Jul/86 with Matt ????

keefe - 03/May/86

Hidden - Lead - 19/Oct/85

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 14/Sep/85

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/85

Hidden - 1985

Steve Crowe - 1985

neilh - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/84 with simon webster

Hammy - Lead - 02/Sep/84 with Penny Excel

sadams - Lead dnf - 06/May/84 with Chris Thwaites

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Apr/84

Needed all the help I could get at the overlap but did ok thereafter.
Simon2005 - 2nd - 1984 with JimB

Melok - 1984

stp - Lead β - 18/Nov/83

Ian Jones - 1983

Done this about 4 times now I think - always excellent.
Tim Sparrow - 1983

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jan/81

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981

ewar woowar - 2nd - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/80

Mark Kemball - Lead - 28/Jun/80 with Wawa

You wonder why you are making such a fuss when Ron Fawcett suddenly appears soloing Silly Arete beside you! He was actually really friendly and stopped to chat.
rogerskews - AltLd - 27/Jan/80 with John Blackburn, Martin Coward

Ian Clare - 1980

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1979 with Alan Walmsley

Hidden - Lead - 1979

steve L - Lead - 28/Aug/78 with Lyndsey

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/78

ian caton - Lead O/S - 1978

Mike Owen - 15/Oct/77 with John Roberts

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 31/Jul/77 with George Hounsome

GeoffG - 2nd - 08/Apr/77

Had done the climb as a hvs with the aid point first with Pete Clayton about 1968. Led the modern version without the aid point once this was eliminated. Done periodically, most recently with Phil Gibson about 2007
David Smith - Lead - 1976 with Al Bennett

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 23/Feb/75

pneame - 1975

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Tom V - 1973

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/72 with Roger Everett

With c. 3 pegs for aid (then standard) Mike fell off crux three times before succeeding.
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 31/Oct/69 with Mike Danford

mikej - AltLd - 12/Apr/67 with Mike Byles

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Hidden, Luke Smithwick, ben360, Dino Dave, Hidden, wi11, rurp, Phil Layton, Hidden, vertigo714, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, nigel pearson, christoph owen, Hidden, Siderunner, MikeT, Mike Parker, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 113
hard E30 of 38
E30 of 38
easy E312 of 38
hard E220 of 38
E24 of 38
easy E22 of 38
hard E10 of 38
E10 of 38
easy E10 of 38
hard 6a1 of 38
6a5 of 38
easy 6a21 of 38
hard 5c7 of 38
5c4 of 38
easy 5c0 of 38
hard 5b0 of 38
5b0 of 38
easy 5b0 of 38
3 Stars12 of 37
2 Stars23 of 37
1 Star2 of 37
0 Stars0 of 37
Bag of .....0 of 37
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Style of ascent

Lead96 of 217 (44.2%)
Followed41 of 217 (18.9%)
Alt Leads30 of 217 (13.8%)
Unknown50 of 217 (23.0%)

'Climbed'113 of 217 (52.1%)
clean O/S58 of 217 (26.7%)
clean β3 of 217 (1.4%)
clean rpt7 of 217 (3.2%)
clean RP1 of 217 (0.5%)
dogged27 of 217 (12.4%)
dnf8 of 217 (3.7%)