A brilliant line. Immaculate climbing in a sensational position with more protection than you might think, but still very airy.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle.
2) 5c, 40m. Move up the crack until a flake leads out onto the slab on the right. Make a tricky step up and right onto the arete and climb this boldly to the overlap (long sling runner and a cam 4 to help keep it in place). Pull over the roof above the chimney on invisible holds. Stalwart traditionalists will then move back onto the right arete and climb this to the top. Most people pull up into a crack and arrange gear and gain the arete slightly higher up where holds naturally lead you. © Rockfax
Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Did the lower arete right of the tree branch, which is excellent climbing, but couldn't work out how to get over the overlap without what felt like my hip trying to dislocate. Didn't seem to be any holds worth writing home about above the lip so after a while we bailed from the spike. Definitely one to come back for!
|jacob shieldhouse hadley||31/Jul||2nd O/S||
brilliant, best E3 ever
|James Oakes||23/Jul||2nd O/S|
|Rachel Slater||12/Jul||Lead β||
Amazing, one of the best E3s I've done. Had a little beta from Anna which made it feel quite chill!
wish it was my lead, the top slab was great fun seconding
|Adam Booth||26/May||Lead rpt|
|Andy Peak 1||26/Apr||AltLd||
My god amazzin
|dobby 200||17/Jan||AltLd O/S||
I lead P2. What an amazing climb! Just as I got to the roof 2 owls flew out of the big crack which was a massive shock! They are nesting in the back of the crack. It took me a while to commit to the moves through the roof but once I was on the upper Slab it was fun and technical airy climbing.
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||28/Dec/14||Lead rpt|
Crux felt overlap felt pretty straightforward, placed a couple of runners in pincussion crack afterwards wanted nothing to do with any nutty run outs. Joined the arete bout half height so still felt pretty bold tho
|Ed morris||12/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Almost blown away by 20mph winds!
|Andrew Wilson||05/May/14||AltLd dnf||
|Andrew Sloan||30/Mar/14||2nd dog||
Ended up 'frigging' the crux on a very tight rope.....definitely harder than 5c. The rest of the route was like an Ailefroide 6a+ slab without the bolts!
|Dan Vaj||28/Mar/14||2nd O/S||
Took ages to commit to the blind moves through the overlap!
Nice lead by Dan, committing moves to overcome overlap. Ace route
Awesome! The roof is very blind and feels very committing, took awhile to psyche up for it. Definitely one to repeat, one of the best lines in N Wales for me.
Amazing pitch. Hands down the best route I've ever climbed. Fundamentally safe but would be a huge whipper if you went from the top slab. First E3.
Done in 2 pitches. Used a side runner at the initial section of P2 as instructed (in the Ground Up guide). Exciting, sustained both physically and mentally, and fantastic route! Skyhook recommended!
Simon Lake (PYB)
Upset about this. did all the moves fine up to the overhang. Had a few looks trying to find the best crystals to use. When I eventually commited to the move my foot was just on the foot hold on the lip about to weight it and I found my self air born. I accidently grabbed the rope resulting in very bad rope burnt fingers as it was quite a long fall. Had another go, lost my moe joe and fell again flipped upside down in the chimney. We Then abbed off. One to come back for
Really, really good.
|tim newton||01/May/13||Lead O/S||
Harder and scarier than I expected
|Alex Mason||06/Feb/13||2nd β||
Chilly in fading light. Such a superb route!
Soooooooooooooooooooooo good!!!!! It will take me a while to get over how good that was
|Michael Allday||11/Jul/12||Lead O/S|
|Bruce Houston||?/Jul/12||AltLd O/S|
Hard roof crux.
|Owain Llewelyn||02/May/12||Lead O/S||
|dan ely||02/May/12||2nd O/S||
|Adam Coles||??/2012||Lead O/S|
|Tom Cox||02/Sep/11||2nd β|
|chris sm||06/Aug/11||2nd O/S||
Cheated at the bottom as i did not hop onto the arete in from the start. Also cheated at the top 'cause Jon went the wrong way - this was accidental.
|dan gibson||06/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
Saw it in the guide and it looked amazing, then after the recommendation from Dave I had to get on it. Amazing route, although the wind was a real issue and I found pulling over the roof quite hard for 5c.
Hayley Proctor, Dan Johnson
|david morse||19/Jun/11||Lead O/S||
Wanted to do this for ages, an immaculate route. One of the great lines of Tremadog
Silly arete!!!! I was so keen to not fall off of this that I didn't even commit to the roof moves. Figured it out, decided my foot wouldnt work so high, faffed for an hour or so, and lowered off without committing. A low point. Not something i want to make a habit of. Felix made it look so trivial that on second I breezed through it. Its amazing what difference a little fear and uncertainty can make to one's flexibility. Still, a fantastic climb, and one that demands plenty of raw skill as well as bravado. A lesson learned - when in doubt, might as well give it a go. It could turn out to be totally fine!
|belay bunny turned bad||04/Jun/11||Lead O/S|
|Andrew Barker||04/Jun/11||Lead O/S||
Incredible. Bold in places but not as intimidating as I thought it might be. Felt a bit weird stepping down off the tree onto the start of the arete. The roof was entertaining and the top arete was just really enjoyable.
|ian d f||22/Apr/11||AltLd dnf||
The gear free retreat at the roof was too tempting, those holds are small!
Lowered off from roof back in 06. Well good route.
|Adam Booth||26/Mar/11||2nd O/S|
In high winds and with numb fingers and toes. quite an experience for someone who doesn't do bold climbing!
|mr mills||06/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
wop wop, about time, been on my list forever, I guess I must have gone up and down the overhang half a dozen times before committing, well worth the wait, conditions were perfect :)
After retreating from below the roof in 2008. Excellent but, say it quietly, the top wall is an eliminate.
clean, after lowering from below crux a couple of years prior.
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2011||-|
The move over the overhang is fine once you rock over and commit. Its just building up to doing it that takes the effort. Top section was bolder and more sustained than I expected. Truly excellent climbing, great line.
25 years since last lead..... alzheimers onsight!
|3 Names||18/Jul/10||Lead O/S|
|Ed Babs||14/Jun/10||AltLd O/S||
In vertical order, starting from the tree: Gripping as f**k, really f**king hard, then amazing to the top. Its like a V4 problem getting through the overhang in the sweaty sweaty heat, those holds are tiny!! Are you meant to step straight onto the arete?
Lead pitch 1 of the Quakermen (5a) to the tree belay. Rich lead the crux. Nails move through the overhang!!
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||01/May/10||Lead O/S|
|Luke Brooks||16/Apr/10||Lead O/S|
|Mike Goldthorp||11/Nov/09||Lead O/S||
Top notch route. Jim Jewell... legend, I wana solo it too!
3 1/4 hour epic. Scared over the roof and retreated left into pincushion crack.
James Gray and Pete Ellis
Awesome, seemed bold but nowhere near as silly as the name or reputation might suggest. On the 'must do' list!
awesome route, overlap is committing and the top slab is bold
|Alex Mason||17/Mar/09||Lead O/S||
Possibly the best climb ever! amazing moves, rock and position. 5*
failed on roof and had to frigg up a bit. The best climb I have been on. Top slab is just mindblowing, my life will not be complete until I have lead this.
|Toby Dunn||26/Jul/08||Lead O/S||
Various International meet
Heather & Mike Soldner
|chris j||08/Jul/06||2nd O/S||
|Ed Booth||30/May/06||Lead dnf||
Nails to start, and even mnore nails at the overhang!!!
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||22/Jan/06||Lead O/S||
Deg felt it might be approaching 6a to surmount the roof these days as the crystals deteriorate...
Brilliant route. A good test of nerve and some excellent climbing
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||-|
|Brian Rodgers||??/2004||Lead O/S||
Needed a bit of faith for the roof. The rest was most enjoyable. One of the best routes ever.
|Mark Riley||?/Apr/03||Lead O/S||
Awesome route. Bolder, but easier than Pincushion ???
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S||
year and date a guess
|michael burrows||26/Feb/95||Lead rpt||
|michael burrows||26/Mar/94||Lead O/S||
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||04/Apr/93||Lead||
Brilliant climb. Did Pincushion first and thought it was worth going for this - it was! This was the last official hard climb I completed before retirement (as I fell of Fingerlicker immediately afterwards).
|steve taylor||?/Mar/91||Lead O/S||
Once again - well chuffed
|Rich Kirby||13/Jun/90||Lead O/S||
|Derek Ryden||?/Jun/90||Lead O/S||
Side runners in Pincushion
|Andy Edgar||??/1990||Lead O/S||
cruised it, so happy, great line.
|Dave Musgrove||30/Apr/89||Lead O/S||
Complemented by my second for this, very airy, so airy. I've never really run anything else out like it nor really intend to as despite being easy the slab is very steep so doesn't lend to wishing such things upon myself. The crux is fun.
Paul Williams, Patrick Radford, Dave Langmead
top pitch only
|Mike Owen||11/Sep/88||Lead rpt||
Elaine tried to lead it.
|William Robertson||??/1987||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
|Mike Owen||10/Sep/86||Lead rpt||
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||19/Jul/86||Lead||
|mark mcgowan01||?/May/85||Lead O/S||
Brilliant! The no hands pose whilst leaning across the roof is fun.
|Mike Owen||01/Apr/83||Lead rpt||
|Mike Owen||21/Oct/80||Lead rpt||
|William Robertson||??/1980||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
|Mike Owen||01/May/78||Lead rpt||
John Roberts, Keith Robertson, Brian Jones
|Mike Owen||15/Oct/77||Lead O/S||