Silly Arete*** E3 5c
[Silly Arete E3 5c, 2 kb]A brilliant line. Immaculate climbing in a sensational position with more protection than you might think, but still very airy. 1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle. 2) 5c, 40m. Move up the crack until a flake leads out onto the slab on the right. Make a tricky step up and right onto the arete and climb this boldly to the overlap (long sling runner and a cam 4 to help keep it in place). Pull over the roof above the chimney on invisible holds. Stalwart traditionalists will then move back onto the right arete and climb this to the top. Most people pull up into a crack and arrange gear and gain the arete slightly higher up where holds naturally lead you. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Silly Arete E3 5c © barni
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 230 logbooks, and on 67 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14

soph - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Dan Arkle

Crux felt overlap felt pretty straightforward, placed a couple of runners in pincussion crack afterwards wanted nothing to do with any nutty run outs. Joined the arete bout half height so still felt pretty bold tho
duncandarnell - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/14 with neil philips

Almost blown away by 20mph winds!
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/14 with stefan

bwestwood - 2nd - 07/May/14

pie_eater_pete - AltLd - 06/May/14

Andrew Wilson - AltLd dnf - 05/May/14 with Matt Nuttall

Ended up 'frigging' the crux on a very tight rope.....definitely harder than 5c. The rest of the route was like an Ailefroide 6a+ slab without the bolts!
Andrew Sloan - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/14 with Tony Ball

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14

Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/14 with James Machaffie

Took ages to commit to the blind moves through the overlap!
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Ben Ryle

Nice lead by Dan, committing moves to overcome overlap. Ace route
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Dan

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Awesome! The roof is very blind and feels very committing, took awhile to psyche up for it. Definitely one to repeat, one of the best lines in N Wales for me.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/13 with Alex

Amazing pitch. Hands down the best route I've ever climbed. Fundamentally safe but would be a huge whipper if you went from the top slab. First E3.
spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/13 with Tom Frost

TRFrost - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13 with J. Hulbert

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Oct/13

Done in 2 pitches. Used a side runner at the initial section of P2 as instructed (in the Ground Up guide). Exciting, sustained both physically and mentally, and fantastic route! Skyhook recommended!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Luke A

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Simon Lake (PYB)

Upset about this. did all the moves fine up to the overhang. Had a few looks trying to find the best crystals to use. When I eventually commited to the move my foot was just on the foot hold on the lip about to weight it and I found my self air born. I accidently grabbed the rope resulting in very bad rope burnt fingers as it was quite a long fall. Had another go, lost my moe joe and fell again flipped upside down in the chimney. We Then abbed off. One to come back for
Dale - Lead dnf - Jun/13 with johny

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Darren McMaster

Very nice.
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Really, really good.
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with jo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/13

Chilly in fading light. Such a superb route!
Alex Mason - 2nd β - 06/Feb/13 with Gwen Lancashire

Soooooooooooooooooooooo good!!!!! It will take me a while to get over how good that was
Sardien - 2nd β - 12/Jan/13 with Andy Scott

Nick Biven - 2013

captain - 2013

ad111 - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Bruce Houston

Bruce Houston - AltLd O/S - Jul/12

YES! What a route, bloody hard though, and runout! Glad ive finally done it! Fairly consistent 5c moves and very bold!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Ben rigby

Hard roof crux.
ben1987 - AltLd dog - 12/May/12 with Adam Coles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Owain Llewelyn - Lead O/S - 02/May/12 with Dan

dan ely - 2nd O/S - 02/May/12 with owian

Fucking cool!
markalmack - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with andy lole

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/12

Adam Coles - Lead O/S - 2012 with ben park

Hidden - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Tom Cox - 2nd β - 02/Sep/11

Dagash - 2nd dog - 02/Sep/11

SteveJCox - 2nd - 02/Sep/11

Misha - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Mike D

MD - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/11 with Misha

Cheated at the bottom as i did not hop onto the arete in from the start. Also cheated at the top 'cause Jon went the wrong way - this was accidental.
chris sm - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Jon Pearson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11

givemetea - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/11 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/11 with roslyn mckendry

Saw it in the guide and it looked amazing, then after the recommendation from Dave I had to get on it. Amazing route, although the wind was a real issue and I found pulling over the roof quite hard for 5c.
willoates - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/11 with Hayley Proctor, Dan Johnson

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/11

Liam FLeming - Lead - 20/Jun/11 with simon edwards

Wanted to do this for ages, an immaculate route. One of the great lines of Tremadog
david morse - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with katie

Silly arete!!!! I was so keen to not fall off of this that I didn't even commit to the roof moves. Figured it out, decided my foot wouldnt work so high, faffed for an hour or so, and lowered off without committing. A low point. Not something i want to make a habit of. Felix made it look so trivial that on second I breezed through it. Its amazing what difference a little fear and uncertainty can make to one's flexibility. Still, a fantastic climb, and one that demands plenty of raw skill as well as bravado. A lesson learned - when in doubt, might as well give it a go. It could turn out to be totally fine!
jacobjlloyd - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Felix

feilx - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Jake

adam06 - 2nd - 05/Jun/11 with Ryan

spidey - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with adam

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with loundsy

Incredible. Bold in places but not as intimidating as I thought it might be. Felt a bit weird stepping down off the tree onto the start of the arete. The roof was entertaining and the top arete was just really enjoyable.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Si

The gear free retreat at the roof was too tempting, those holds are small!
ian d f - AltLd dnf - 22/Apr/11 with Mark

Lowered off from roof back in 06. Well good route.
Ed Booth - Lead - 26/Mar/11

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Ed Booth

In high winds and with numb fingers and toes. quite an experience for someone who doesn't do bold climbing!
Glyn - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11 with Luke

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 08/Mar/11 with Glyn Hudson

wop wop, about time, been on my list forever, I guess I must have gone up and down the overhang half a dozen times before committing, well worth the wait, conditions were perfect :)
mr mills - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Gareth

After retreating from below the roof in 2008. Excellent but, say it quietly, the top wall is an eliminate.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead - Mar/11

clean, after lowering from below crux a couple of years prior.
zero six - Lead - Mar/11

Marcus - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

pasbury - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Lone Rider - 2011

The move over the overhang is fine once you rock over and commit. Its just building up to doing it that takes the effort. Top section was bolder and more sustained than I expected. Truly excellent climbing, great line.
farmus21 - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Ben Allsford

25 years since last lead..... alzheimers onsight!
phil64 - Lead - 16/Aug/10

3 Names - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Sumee Holloway

P2
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/10 with Harry

In vertical order, starting from the tree: Gripping as f**k, really f**king hard, then amazing to the top. Its like a V4 problem getting through the overhang in the sweaty sweaty heat, those holds are tiny!! Are you meant to step straight onto the arete?
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Eugene

Lead pitch 1 of the Quakermen (5a) to the tree belay. Rich lead the crux. Nails move through the overhang!!
eugeneth - AltLd RP - 03/Jun/10 with Rich Cannell

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Chris Coleman

barni - Lead - 16/Apr/10 with luke

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Barni

nutallovertheface - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with matt b

simeclimb68 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2010 with Gwen Thomson

Top notch route. Jim Jewell... legend, I wana solo it too!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/09 with alex mason

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Oct/09

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/09

3 1/4 hour epic. Scared over the roof and retreated left into pincushion crack.
mattyork2 - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with James Gray and Pete Ellis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/09

mikeyjbs - Lead RP - Aug/09 with will woodhead

tom rookes - 2nd - 30/Jul/09

Dead good
NeilGriffiths - 25/Jul/09 with Dave Almond

Dave Almond - 2nd - 25/Jul/09 with Neil Griffiths

Hidden - 2nd β - 20/Jul/09

Awesome, seemed bold but nowhere near as silly as the name or reputation might suggest. On the 'must do' list!
jkarran - 2nd - 13/Jun/09 with Aly

awesome route, overlap is committing and the top slab is bold
centurion05 - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with Stu Harth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09

Possibly the best climb ever! amazing moves, rock and position. 5*
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/09 with Guy VG

failed on roof and had to frigg up a bit. The best climb I have been on. Top slab is just mindblowing, my life will not be complete until I have lead this.
GuyVG - 2nd dog - 17/Mar/09 with Al Mason

en7edh - 2nd - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead β - 13/Oct/08

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with JulesV

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/08

Brown - 2nd O/S - 16/May/08 with Various International meet

feilx - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08 with Heather & Mike Soldner

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2008 with D. Body

Matt Vigg - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

haydng - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rob

chris j - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/06

Nails to start, and even mnore nails at the overhang!!!
Ed Booth - Lead dnf - 30/May/06 with Remus Knowles

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/06 with Jeff McDonald

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

jeffmcd56 - Lead O/S - 2006 with Rob

Deg felt it might be approaching 6a to surmount the roof these days as the crystals deteriorate...
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/05 with Deg Bolger

Brilliant route. A good test of nerve and some excellent climbing
KRB - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/05 with Chris Bridges

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Aug/04

sadams - 2nd - 08/Apr/04 with Eric Hildrew

Needed a bit of faith for the roof. The rest was most enjoyable. One of the best routes ever.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 2004 with Phil Leng

Awesome route. Bolder, but easier than Pincushion ???
Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Apr/03

nige - Lead - 30/Mar/03 with mark hounslea

Hidden - 2002

Billg - Lead O/S - 2002 with Megan Beaumont

Hidden - 2nd - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/01

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2000

philhilo - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000 with Phil T

MjrTom - Lead O/S - Jun/99

year and date a guess
mux - Lead O/S - Jun/99 with James Hubbard

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/96

ste_d - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/96 with mik

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/96 with Steven Delderfield

sdht - Jun/96

WB - AltLd O/S - 1996 with Guy

GuyM - 1996

rob.grafton - Lead - Aug/95 with Ben

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 26/Feb/95 with brian jones

richparry - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Big Rik - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/94 with Pete (SCUM)

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/94 with lola gunn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/93

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/93

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 04/Apr/93 with Chris Ranner

Roget - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/92 with jon

leaders problem!
Grezza - 2nd O/S - May/92 with Mick RIP

Brilliant climb. Did Pincushion first and thought it was worth going for this - it was! This was the last official hard climb I completed before retirement (as I fell of Fingerlicker immediately afterwards).
petemeads - Lead O/S - Aug/91 with Tristan Olivier

Andy Say - Lead - 22/Jun/91

Chris Wright - Lead - 30/May/91

Once again - well chuffed
steve taylor - Lead O/S - Mar/91 with Jim Waddington

steve taylor - Lead - Mar/91 with stumpy

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/90 with Glen Jones

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/90 with Andy W

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/90 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/90

Side runners in Pincushion
Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Jun/90 with Dominic

whispering nic - May/90 with Tim PYB

DDDD - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 1990

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Chris Wright - Lead - 30/May/89

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/89 with Kim Greenald

Complemented by my second for this, very airy, so airy. I've never really run anything else out like it nor really intend to as despite being easy the slab is very steep so doesn't lend to wishing such things upon myself. The crux is fun.
howifeel - Lead O/S - Mar/89 with Thin Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

RichardMc - 2nd - 23/Oct/88 with Paul Williams, Patrick Radford, Dave Langmead

top pitch only
andy tetsill - TR - Oct/88 with Hillary Sharp

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Sep/88

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/88

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Feb/88

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - Lead - 1988

sadams - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/87 with Guy Townsend

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

David Smith - Lead rpt - 15/Nov/86 with Brian barker

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 19/Jul/86 with Brian Harley

shark - 2nd - 05/Sep/85 with Seb Grieve

mark mcgowan01 - Lead O/S - May/85 with Graham Harrison

Hidden - 1985

mark mcgowan01 - 1985

Led 5/6 times , no pardner one day, and soloed it, cool.
Melok - Solo - 1985

keefe - 15/Apr/84

Brilliant! The no hands pose whilst leaning across the roof is fun.
Bob - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/84 with Bill Birkett

Mark Kemball - Lead - 12/Feb/84 with Alan Little

stp - Lead - 18/Nov/83

Hidden - Lead - May/83

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/82

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - TR - 1982

Hidden - 23/May/81

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Mike Owen - 15/Oct/77 with John Roberts

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/77

steve L - 2nd - 25/Sep/76 with sharpie

Hidden - 1973

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Voting
Total votes cast 137
hard E40 of 46
E40 of 46
easy E41 of 46
hard E39 of 46
E336 of 46
easy E30 of 46
hard E20 of 46
E20 of 46
easy E20 of 46
hard 6a0 of 47
6a2 of 47
easy 6a8 of 47
hard 5c16 of 47
5c20 of 47
easy 5c1 of 47
hard 5b0 of 47
5b0 of 47
easy 5b0 of 47
3 Stars43 of 44
2 Stars0 of 44
1 Star1 of 44
0 Stars0 of 44
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