Rockfax Description
A brilliant line. Immaculate climbing in a sensational position with more protection than you might think, but still very airy.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle.
2) 5c, 40m. Move up the crack until a flake leads out onto the slab on the right. Make a tricky step up and right onto the arete and climb this boldly to the overlap (long sling runner and a cam 4 to help keep it in place). Pull over the roof above the chimney on invisible holds. Stalwart traditionalists will then move back onto the right arete and climb this to the top. Most people pull up into a crack and arrange gear and gain the arete slightly higher up where holds naturally lead you. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
JamieSparkes 11/Oct Lead dnf

Did the lower arete right of the tree branch, which is excellent climbing, but couldn't work out how to get over the overlap without what felt like my hip trying to dislocate. Didn't seem to be any holds worth writing home about above the lip so after a while we bailed from the spike. Definitely one to come back for!

mynyddresident 05/Sep Lead O/S
Ian craigie ?/Aug Lead
Rachael Crewsmith
jacob shieldhouse hadley 31/Jul 2nd O/S

brilliant, best E3 ever

James Oakes 23/Jul 2nd O/S
Fragmod 23/Jul Lead
Rachel Slater 12/Jul Lead β

Amazing, one of the best E3s I've done. Had a little beta from Anna which made it feel quite chill!

Anna Gilyeat
anguskille 26/May 2nd

wish it was my lead, the top slab was great fun seconding

Adam Booth 26/May Lead rpt
Hidden 24/May TR dog
Andy Peak 1 26/Apr AltLd

My god amazzin

Hidden 26/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr -
tom.e 07/Feb 2nd O/S
dobby 200 17/Jan AltLd O/S

I lead P2. What an amazing climb! Just as I got to the roof 2 owls flew out of the big crack which was a massive shock! They are nesting in the back of the crack. It took me a while to commit to the moves through the roof but once I was on the upper Slab it was fun and technical airy climbing.

joedoherty 17/Jan AltLd dog
Scooter Young ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden 28/Dec/14 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
soph 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
duncandarnell 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Crux felt overlap felt pretty straightforward, placed a couple of runners in pincussion crack afterwards wanted nothing to do with any nutty run outs. Joined the arete bout half height so still felt pretty bold tho

neil philips
Ed morris 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Almost blown away by 20mph winds!

bwestwood 07/May/14 2nd
pie_eater_pete 06/May/14 AltLd
Andrew Wilson 05/May/14 AltLd dnf
Matt Nuttall
Andrew Sloan 30/Mar/14 2nd dog

Ended up 'frigging' the crux on a very tight rope.....definitely harder than 5c. The rest of the route was like an Ailefroide 6a+ slab without the bolts!

Tony Ball
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 28/Mar/14 2nd O/S
James Machaffie
Dan724 26/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Took ages to commit to the blind moves through the overlap!

BenRyle 26/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Nice lead by Dan, committing moves to overcome overlap. Ace route

Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
rustaldo 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Awesome! The roof is very blind and feels very committing, took awhile to psyche up for it. Definitely one to repeat, one of the best lines in N Wales for me.

spidermonkey09 11/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Amazing pitch. Hands down the best route I've ever climbed. Fundamentally safe but would be a huge whipper if you went from the top slab. First E3.

TRFrost 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
J. Hulbert
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd dog
masa-alpin 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Done in 2 pitches. Used a side runner at the initial section of P2 as instructed (in the Ground Up guide). Exciting, sustained both physically and mentally, and fantastic route! Skyhook recommended!

Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Simon Lake (PYB)
Dale ?/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Upset about this. did all the moves fine up to the overhang. Had a few looks trying to find the best crystals to use. When I eventually commited to the move my foot was just on the foot hold on the lip about to weight it and I found my self air born. I accidently grabbed the rope resulting in very bad rope burnt fingers as it was quite a long fall. Had another go, lost my moe joe and fell again flipped upside down in the chimney. We Then abbed off. One to come back for

dswansonlow 19/May/13 Lead O/S
shed_hed 19/May/13 2nd O/S

Very nice.

wolf.leeb 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Really, really good.

tim newton 01/May/13 Lead O/S

Harder and scarier than I expected

Alex Mason 06/Feb/13 2nd β

Chilly in fading light. Such a superb route!

Gwen Lancashire
Sardien 12/Jan/13 2nd β

Soooooooooooooooooooooo good!!!!! It will take me a while to get over how good that was

Andy Scott
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
ad111 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Bruce Houston ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
ben1987 12/May/12 AltLd dog

Hard roof crux.

Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 02/May/12 Lead O/S
dan ely 02/May/12 2nd O/S
markalmack 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Fucking cool!

andy lole
Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd
Adam Coles ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Tom Cox 02/Sep/11 2nd β
Dagash 02/Sep/11 2nd dog
SteveJCox 02/Sep/11 2nd
Misha 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
MD 14/Aug/11 2nd dog
chris sm 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Cheated at the bottom as i did not hop onto the arete in from the start. Also cheated at the top 'cause Jon went the wrong way - this was accidental.

Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
givemetea 06/Jul/11 2nd O/S
dan gibson 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S
roslyn mckendry
willoates 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Saw it in the guide and it looked amazing, then after the recommendation from Dave I had to get on it. Amazing route, although the wind was a real issue and I found pulling over the roof quite hard for 5c.

Hayley Proctor, Dan Johnson
Hidden 21/Jun/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 20/Jun/11 Lead
simon edwards
david morse 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for ages, an immaculate route. One of the great lines of Tremadog

jacobjlloyd 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Silly arete!!!! I was so keen to not fall off of this that I didn't even commit to the roof moves. Figured it out, decided my foot wouldnt work so high, faffed for an hour or so, and lowered off without committing. A low point. Not something i want to make a habit of. Felix made it look so trivial that on second I breezed through it. Its amazing what difference a little fear and uncertainty can make to one's flexibility. Still, a fantastic climb, and one that demands plenty of raw skill as well as bravado. A lesson learned - when in doubt, might as well give it a go. It could turn out to be totally fine!

feilx 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
adam06 05/Jun/11 2nd
spidey 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Incredible. Bold in places but not as intimidating as I thought it might be. Felt a bit weird stepping down off the tree onto the start of the arete. The roof was entertaining and the top arete was just really enjoyable.

ian d f 22/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

The gear free retreat at the roof was too tempting, those holds are small!

Ed Booth 26/Mar/11 Lead

Lowered off from roof back in 06. Well good route.

Adam Booth 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Glyn 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

In high winds and with numb fingers and toes. quite an experience for someone who doesn't do bold climbing!

Luke Brooks 08/Mar/11 2nd
Glyn Hudson
mr mills 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

wop wop, about time, been on my list forever, I guess I must have gone up and down the overhang half a dozen times before committing, well worth the wait, conditions were perfect :)

halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Mar/11 Lead

After retreating from below the roof in 2008. Excellent but, say it quietly, the top wall is an eliminate.

zero six ?/Mar/11 Lead

clean, after lowering from below crux a couple of years prior.

Marcus ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Steve Crowe ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
farmus21 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

The move over the overhang is fine once you rock over and commit. Its just building up to doing it that takes the effort. Top section was bolder and more sustained than I expected. Truly excellent climbing, great line.

Ben Allsford
phil64 16/Aug/10 Lead

25 years since last lead..... alzheimers onsight!

3 Names 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S


smallerrich 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S

In vertical order, starting from the tree: Gripping as f**k, really f**king hard, then amazing to the top. Its like a V4 problem getting through the overhang in the sweaty sweaty heat, those holds are tiny!! Are you meant to step straight onto the arete?

eugeneth 03/Jun/10 AltLd RP

Lead pitch 1 of the Quakermen (5a) to the tree belay. Rich lead the crux. Nails move through the overhang!!

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
barni 16/Apr/10 Lead
Luke Brooks 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
matt b
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
richiebongo ??/2010 Lead O/S
Gwen Thomson
Mike Goldthorp 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Top notch route. Jim Jewell... legend, I wana solo it too!

Hidden 12/Oct/09 2nd
Marti999 12/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 10/Oct/09 Lead

3 1/4 hour epic. Scared over the roof and retreated left into pincushion crack.

James Gray and Pete Ellis
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs ?/Aug/09 Lead RP
will woodhead
tom rookes 30/Jul/09 2nd
NeilGriffiths 25/Jul/09 -

Dead good

Dave Almond
Dave Almond 25/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/09 2nd β
jkarran 13/Jun/09 2nd

Awesome, seemed bold but nowhere near as silly as the name or reputation might suggest. On the 'must do' list!

centurion05 09/May/09 Lead O/S

awesome route, overlap is committing and the top slab is bold

Stu Harth
Hidden 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Possibly the best climb ever! amazing moves, rock and position. 5*

Guy VG
GuyVG 17/Mar/09 2nd dog

failed on roof and had to frigg up a bit. The best climb I have been on. Top slab is just mindblowing, my life will not be complete until I have lead this.

Al Mason
en7edh ??/2009 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/08 Lead β
Toby Dunn 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
Brown 16/May/08 2nd O/S
Various International meet
feilx 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Heather & Mike Soldner
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
D. Body
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
chris j 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Ben Bradford
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 30/May/06 Lead dnf

Nails to start, and even mnore nails at the overhang!!!

Remus Knowles
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 22/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Jeff McDonald
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2006 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 23/Apr/05 Lead O/S

Deg felt it might be approaching 6a to surmount the roof these days as the crystals deteriorate...

Deg Bolger
KRB 03/Apr/05 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. A good test of nerve and some excellent climbing

Chris Bridges
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Aug/04 Lead
sadams 08/Apr/04 2nd
Eric Hildrew
Brian Rodgers ??/2004 Lead O/S

Needed a bit of faith for the roof. The rest was most enjoyable. One of the best routes ever.

Mark Riley ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Bolder, but easier than Pincushion ???

nige 30/Mar/03 Lead
mark hounslea
Hidden ??/2002 -
Billg ??/2002 Lead O/S
Megan Beaumont
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dnf
philhilo ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Phil T
Hidden ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
MjrTom ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
mux ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S

year and date a guess

James Hubbard
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden 22/Sep/96 Lead rpt
ste_d 20/Jul/96 Lead O/S
mikedelderfield 20/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
sdht ?/Jun/96 -
WB ??/1996 AltLd O/S
GuyM ??/1996 -
rob.grafton ?/Aug/95 Lead
michael burrows 26/Feb/95 Lead rpt
brian jones
richparry ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Big Rik ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
mattnuttall 08/Oct/94 Lead O/S
Pete (SCUM)
michael burrows 26/Mar/94 Lead O/S
lola gunn
Hidden 03/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/93 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Apr/93 Lead
Chris Ranner
Roget 04/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Grezza ?/May/92 2nd O/S

leaders problem!

Mick RIP
petemeads ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb. Did Pincushion first and thought it was worth going for this - it was! This was the last official hard climb I completed before retirement (as I fell of Fingerlicker immediately afterwards).

Tristan Olivier
Andy Say 22/Jun/91 Lead
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead O/S

Once again - well chuffed

Jim Waddington
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead
jfletcher 14/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Glen Jones
mark-abz 08/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Andy W
Rich Kirby 13/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Andy Mackay
Hidden 02/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S

Side runners in Pincushion

whispering nic ?/May/90 -
DDDD ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1990 Lead O/S

cruised it, so happy, great line.

Hugh Woodland
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Chris Wright 30/May/89 Lead
Dave Musgrove 30/Apr/89 Lead O/S
Kim Greenald
howifeel ?/Mar/89 Lead O/S

Complemented by my second for this, very airy, so airy. I've never really run anything else out like it nor really intend to as despite being easy the slab is very steep so doesn't lend to wishing such things upon myself. The crux is fun.

Thin Steve
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
RichardMc 23/Oct/88 2nd
Paul Williams, Patrick Radford, Dave Langmead
andy tetsill ?/Oct/88 TR

top pitch only

Hillary Sharp
Mike Owen 11/Sep/88 Lead rpt

Elaine tried to lead it.

Elaine Owen
Hidden 10/Sep/88 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden 21/Feb/88 Lead β
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
sadams 15/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Guy Townsend
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
uphillnow 15/Nov/86 Lead rpt
Brian barker
Mike Owen 10/Sep/86 Lead rpt
Gavin Peat
Alan James - UKC and UKH 19/Jul/86 Lead
Brian Harley
shark 05/Sep/85 2nd
Seb Grieve
mark mcgowan01 ?/May/85 Lead O/S
Graham Harrison
Steve Bell ??/1985 -
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Solo
steveboote ??/1985 Lead
Lone Rider 05/Aug/84 AltLd
Alan Shand
keefe 15/Apr/84 -
Bob 01/Apr/84 Lead O/S

Brilliant! The no hands pose whilst leaning across the roof is fun.

Bill Birkett
Mark Kemball 12/Feb/84 Lead
Alan Little
stp 18/Nov/83 Lead
Hidden ?/May/83 Lead
Mike Owen 01/Apr/83 Lead rpt
Steve Foxley
Hidden 13/Jul/82 2nd
redjerry ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S
Bob Duncan
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1982 TR
Hidden 23/May/81 -
Mike Owen 21/Oct/80 Lead rpt
Al Stewart
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Mike Owen 01/May/78 Lead rpt
Steve ?
Mike Owen 27/Mar/78 Lead
John Roberts, Keith Robertson, Brian Jones
Mike Owen 15/Oct/77 Lead O/S
John Roberts
Hidden 14/May/77 2nd
steve L 25/Sep/76 2nd
Hidden ??/1973 -
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set