Rockfax Description
Steep and fierce finger-jamming on pitch one, but perhaps not as hard as its reputation suggests. Start below the big corner of Barbarian and scramble up to the tree at the base of the crack.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up left through a narrow chimney to gain the finger-crack. Power impressively up this, not forgetting to place runners, to a small roof. Make a testing move left round this and traverse right to the belay on Barbarian.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb Barbarian for 4m through an overlap, then move left across the wall on surprisingly good holds past a peg (?) to gain Silly Arete. Finish up this. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, 50 cracks to Squamish, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics.

dswansonlow 10/Oct Lead dnf

Absolute and total slap down. I lowered off the tat (replaced) because I felt ill and would have only have had to aid it.

with Ben A
Hidden 22/Jul 2nd
Andy Peak 1 06/Jun AltLd

Second pich. One slump at the hard move( bottled it) lowers back to the belay and went from ther! Very very windy on the top of silly arÍte

Misha 06/Jun AltLd

Not a warm up! Was pumped by the time I got to the stuck on juggy block as the initial pod is awkward and gets strenuous. Half decent rest standing up on the stuck on block but not really able to get it back. Slipped off the crack going past the tat, then again. Did it third go, only to get stuck above! Plugged a cam in and took a couple of falls onto it, literally a move off a rest. Seconded second pitch, that was fine, one 6a sequence but nowhere as sustained.

with Andy
Hidden 16/May 2nd
Andy Peak 1 26/Apr Lead G/U

Second try! Perfect climbing, perfect gear

with Si
Andy Peak 1 11/Feb Lead dnf

The best protected e4 iv bean on to date, also the hardest, got to the thread but cud no longer feel my extremities so lowered of the thread, clean and not to desperate to this point who nows what the next section will bring, very very cool.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 16/Aug/14 -

aid climbing practice with some bits free,i.e the scary start and top traverse.did p1 and chris aided top pitch of barbarian and i seconded it in trainers as it was getting dark and he had my rock shoes!abbed off in the dark!

with chris Lyness
mike mo ??/2014 -
Pieterjan De Roo 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 19/May/13 Lead dnf

Strenuous, with not much for your feet! Jimmy got to the thread and fell. I managed to get above, place another bit of kit then fell off once it stopped being fingerlocks and went back into thin hands! Brilliant!

with Fingers
willoates 17/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Another one that I had been pretty much sure i was going to fall of, really happy to have got it clean, found it quite pumpy. Luke lead the 2nd pitch, another great pitch.

with Luke
Luke Brooks 17/Mar/13 AltLd

Led P2 again, got pumped again!

with Will
Hidden 31/Jan/13 2nd O/S
Daniel Heath 31/Jan/13 Lead β

P1 Nice to get back on trad and put the PE training to use. Definitely made a difference I think. I've yet to climb an E4 that isn't a finger crack... talk about a narrow skill set.

with Remus
markalmack 04/May/12 Lead O/S
david morse 04/May/12 2nd dog

Tried to lead, FAIL. Couldn't manage it clean on second, nails!

Stone Muppet 14/Apr/12 2nd dog

Nails! Though the chimney was the most nails bit...

with dan ely
gforce 09/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Ug. Not even close!

with Emma
AdrianP 29/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Olli
jacobjlloyd 19/Jun/11 2nd dog

Another inspiring lead from Felix! I have got to stop falling off of everything he leads though. Training time. Fell off the crack on the first pitch. Ended up laybacking instead of fingerlocking pretty much the whole crack, embarrassingly, which explains the power failure. Managed the second pitch alright, felt yards easier than the first! Has crimps and everything ; ) Unbelievable line. Crafted by God for our pleasure.

with Felix
feilx 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
JRae 29/May/11 Lead dnf

Hardest thing i've ever been on. Fierce!

thomasadixon 29/May/11 Lead dog

Got beaten up, will have to come back. Great climbing though, learned how to ring lock!

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead dnf
barni 09/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 09/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch. 6a ***

with Liam, Barni
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd
dan gibson 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with michael porter
switch 08/May/10 2nd rpt
with Leanne
Dave Turnbull, BMC 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Geoff Bennett
Hidden 19/Apr/10 Lead G/U
Alex Mason 11/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome pitch, not mega pumpy, some well solid locks. Mikey led 2nd pitch well.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 11/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. both pitches are absolutely top notch!

switch 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

p1 only. Abbed from belay, in the rain.

Rich Kirby 04/May/09 2nd

Pitch 1 only. Finished up Barbarian.

with Kev
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with JulesV
Oli 20/Jul/08 2nd dog

Failed on first pitch (pumpy), but got the second pitch clean and it felt fine.

with Geraldine Taylor
Hidden 18/May/08 2nd
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Rob
chris j 08/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Ben Bradford
Bern ?/Jul/06 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 01/May/05 Lead O/S
with Nic Sellers
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2002 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Oct/98 AltLd O/S

fantastic struggle

with Muir Morton
Guy ??/1998 -
Hidden 22/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/96 Lead O/S
ste_d 20/Jul/96 2nd O/S
with mik
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead RP
Nick Biven 11/Apr/92 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
Alan James - UKC and UKH 26/Jul/91 Lead
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead
DDDD ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Chris Wright 30/May/89 Lead
Mike Owen 16/Aug/88 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
uphillnow ??/1988 Lead dog

Took a rest after initial pod. Also seconded Andrew Horn on it some years later

with Neil McNab
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Bruce Kerr 21/Jul/87 Lead
with Johnny May
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
keefe 25/Aug/86 -
with Alan Wilson
Dave Musgrove 26/Aug/85 2nd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 05/Jul/85 AltLd O/S
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden 01/Sep/84 2nd
Bob 01/Apr/84 2nd β

Failed to lead the second pitch.

Mark Kemball 18/Feb/84 Lead dnf
with John Jefferies
stp 29/Oct/83 Lead

Lead both pitches in one.

Hidden ?/May/83 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 01/Apr/83 Lead rpt
with Steve Foxley
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S

Mega strenuous but bombproof****

with Julian Whatsisname (not Clary!)
steve L 01/Apr/82 Lead
with Lyndsey
Mike Owen 04/May/81 -
with Mel Griffiths
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 20
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set