UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

22m.

Rockfax Description
Desperate climbing up the thin and technical slabby arete. It features a unique rockover that turns into a knee-bar low down, then a sustained fingery arete above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the slabby Arête on the South Wall of Twll Mawr behind the collapsed quarry building (on the same level as the main access tunnels). Climb the left hand slabby Arete (right of the trad crack 'Booooom, Blast & Ruin' VS 4c). Climb the thin and technical arête, 9 bolts protect. See if you can find the high stepping rock over that turns into a knee bar low down, before tackling the thin and sustained arête above. Lower off on the pedestal ledge above.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones 04/Jul/2013.

Ticklists

Slate Arêtes (sport) , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+ , Slate Sport , Rarely repeated Slate Sport 7's , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Sl@teheads Sl@te

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Route of Interest
Beasley Street

Grade: 7b ***
(Tyddyn Hywel Quarry)

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