140m. A very interesting route, quick to come into condition and fat to approach from Dunmail. The first pitch is often a bit bare but the upper section can still be in good condition. Start by climbing a chock stone on the left followed by a long easy section (beware loose scree). The gully steepens with a few awkward bits leading to the final iced slab leading out right. © Rockfax
Sid Cross & Alice 'Jammy' Nelson 1938
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Chockstone move quite interesting in thin conditions, the rest of the climb stepped out but in good nick until just after the final slab when the snow and ice finished leaving a long steep final turf top out (not nice).
Alternate lead with Mark climbing the chock and the final pitch.
Great fun. Much of the snow was loose and un-bonded, gear where it was needed, the final ice slab had just enough on it to feel easy. I lead all pitches.
|Ben Hollands||21/Mar/13||Lead O/S|
Excellent route through great scenery. Mostly easier than III - snow not consolidated lower down but upper-half turf frozen and good enough ice for stubby screws! Me P1 & P3. Gareth P2.
|Somerset swede basher||16/Mar/13||Solo O/S|
|Jimmy O||02/Mar/13||AltLd O/S||
Andy Wallace, Andy Blackett
Moonlit ascent. Good mixed section over the boulder, up solid neve to an icy last section, a superb night, no need for torches : )
|Mountain Llama||26/Feb/13||Solo rpt|
|Two Cams Tom||26/Feb/13||AltLd|
excellent ice conditions
Lead first and last pitches, a fun route. The ice was a bit thin on the final section but climbable.
Lead middle snow pitch and steepish icy step, plenty of ice but not bonded to anything. Bit thin elsewhere.
poor snow today but only people on it the whole day (which is lucky as thats how long we took :-)
Chockstone thin but protectable and good incuts for crampons. Not much rock gear so ice screws & drive-ins useful higher up. Icy top section is really good!
Chockstone thinnish, lovely ice in gully. Not much rock gear high up so screws useful.
Led all, first two pitches pretty lean, second two well frozen but pretty run out, didn't get any gear in the last, needed warthogs and didn't have any. Well worth the two stars.
Rosse Dalton Vandendorpe
Very banked out, the chockstone at the start covered! mostly a snow plod.
|Two Cams Tom||18/Dec/11||2nd||
|cas smerdon||17/Dec/11||Lead dnf||
Ran out of time.
|Sam Simpson||19/Dec/10||AltLd O/S|
First pitch completely bare. Other pitches well formed.
moved together at the top, Bara led the first step. what a stunning day out
|design crisis||05/Dec/10||AltLd O/S|
Chris led chockstone. Soloed the rest.
In the dark after work! Did the ice fall finish on the last pitch.
Bottom chockstone was bare (as usual?) after that the ice was good
Good nick, hardest part was the chockstone at the start. Led P1 and P3.
Terrible condition, first moves over chockstone hard as you have to place axes into bare loose scree, ice pitch virtually gone, final 20m clawing up unfrozen turf covered with scree! Fun day out though...
|Clay C||24/Jan/10||AltLd O/S||
Poor conditions, but a good day out! Led easy snow slope (first ever lead).
Good kickable snow but main probs were at chockstone where snow was getting undermined and collapsible. Main challenge was leaving enough for the party of 2 following us.
after one move at the start its a long boring snow slope. did the small ice wall at the top but you can miss it out and follow gully past it.
luke, sam d
ok but far from good condition
Led 1st & last pitches. Excellent fun
Joe & Martin Hore
awesome route - a bit thin i think as the thaw maybe set in. the two chaps who gorped out when we continued after they'd announced the whole hill had melted - aaahhhh!
nats and ali
S.Culverhouse + M.Hore
Excellent route. Snow, turf, rock and ice.
Rather busy! Sadly the ice pitches had steps hacked all the way up which made it easier and less fun.
|Martin Haworth||07/Feb/09||Solo O/S|
|Will Smith||07/Feb/09||AltLd O/S||
Felt easy for the grade. The chockstone was straightforward but had loads of loose choss on top. Rest of the first two pitches was on easy angled, excellent quality snow. Top two pitches were fantastic, great thick, plastic ice which felt easy and secure. Ridiculously busy though, perhaps 5 parties simultaneously on the route!
nice climb, if too busy. good ice and snow. interesting short ice lines up right near the top
|Mr. K||07/Feb/09||AltLd O/S||
Excellent route, finding gear was very difficult though.
Climbed at daybreak before the crowds. A fine outing but a bit hacked by heavy traffic - a bit of a walk really. II not III today.
|Tom Phillips||04/Feb/09||Solo O/S|
|Martin Haworth||?/Mar/05||Lead O/S||
Banked out with good neve - probably only II
|John Brayshaw||22/Feb/94||AltLd O/S|