Alcatraz** VS 4c

Rockfax Description
A fine route up a prominent crack.
1) 4a, 20m. Start up the rib as for Holloway/Crocodillo.
2) 4a, 12m. Traverse up and left over ledges and spikes to reach a spike belay below the left arete.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the blunt rib to below a groove/crack in the arete. Follow this to a bulge and move right over this to a ledge. Escape up and left to belay off a tree. © ROCKFAX


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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Ron Rees Davies - 2nd - 03/Aug/15

rushy11111918 - Lead - 03/Aug/15 with Ron Rees Davies

foostu4 - AltLd - 11/Jul/15

2nd pitch
mrginna - AltLd - 11/Jul/15 with Stu P

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/15

Quality route. Nice rib on P1, might as well be linked with P2 since it's such a short traverse. First bit of P3 not as hard as it looks, on good holds, just saps your energy placing gear. Traverse is fine, but the climb up and off the disappearing ledge is a sting in the tail. Felt very steep, and just after I'd landed the hidden jug with my left hand, I barn door'ed off, and had to commit with both hands but no feet. With no going back (only off) I did a chin up and managed to make another jug off left, and pulled out into the corner. Elvis turned up, whilst I topped out onto the scrappy top. LOST - long extender, red/silver snap gates, 400mmx8mm black/white dyneema.
Karlos - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Ante, Adam B

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/15

Led 1st and 2nd pitch as one.
Lyndsay Superclimber - AltLd O/S - 28/May/15 with Ryan

Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/15 with max railing

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/15

ATTENTION To get to the foot of this climb, go up P1 of Holloway until you reach the (2014) abseil station. Traverse left and belay at a clump of oak trees (big spikes here) before the ground drops away again. Climb directly up from the trees to reach the foot of a corner of rusty coloured rock with lots of obvious holds and ledges: this is Alcatraz. There is a crack at the back of this corner, but it isn't "obvious" from a distance. This climb is technical and submits to patience, observation and good footwork. You can place excellent runners from safe positions all the way up. Rushing and using brute strength will probably result in a fall. There is an abseil station at the top, but the ropes were showing their age in September 2014, so bring some cord to back it up.
Pete_Frost - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Ray Sparks

Ray Sparks - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Pete_Frost

what a good route. Miked went offline for the last pitch, was really awesome!
rbharries - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/14 with karolinka, Mikey G

andybirtwistle - Lead - 20/Jul/12 with Keith Lonsdale

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/11

Liam FLeming - AltLd - 18/Aug/11 with paul james

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

uphillnow - 2011

PAJames - 2011

the pull over into the niche quite tricky
JasonV - 2nd - 07/May/10 with Phil

simeclimb68 - 2010

We approached this by taking the first pitch of Holloway. I led Alcatraz and found it pretty tough. I hung around for ages below the niche trying to fiddle in some wires. The pull over was far from positive but it went OK. Good route.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Colin Maddison

Poor Wyn fell off leading this so I took over,got lost on the route trying to find niche so escaped off left via Bucket Rider,a tree and old tat before it got dark :(
ritchierich - Lead rpt - 07/Dec/08 with Wyn Price

RachubAndy - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Henry and Gav

ritchierich - Lead - 08/Oct/06 with Bob Dickson

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2005

Clucky - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/03 with Paul Dickson

Hidden - 2002

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/00 with Joe Thompson

Hidden - 2nd - 2000

kev davies - 2000

craig h - AltLd O/S - 07/Nov/98 with Rick W and Janet Hannah

Hidden - Lead - 03/Feb/98

five - Lead O/S - Feb/98

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/96 with Iain Boardman

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/94

nai - AltLd - 1994

Budge - Lead O/S - Nov/93 with Mike Oates

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/93

andrew300169 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/92 with Pom

sharp
mattnuttall - 2nd - 31/Mar/91 with Alan Holden

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Dec/90

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/88 with pete roberts

Hidden - 1984

Ian Jones - 1983

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 13/Mar/82 with Charlie Leverton

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/80

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Mike Owen - 14/Nov/76 with John Roberts

steve L - AltLd - 03/Apr/76 with sharpie

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 29/Jan/76

mikej - Lead - 16/Jul/74 with Mike Byles

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Federico Sher, bigmrp, jandyd05, climbinmunkey, Mike Parker

Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS4 of 12
hard VS7 of 12
VS1 of 12
easy VS0 of 12
hard HS0 of 12
HS0 of 12
easy HS0 of 12
hard 5a0 of 11
5a0 of 11
easy 5a5 of 11
hard 4c6 of 11
4c0 of 11
easy 4c0 of 11
hard 4b0 of 11
4b0 of 11
easy 4b0 of 11
3 Stars1 of 10
2 Stars9 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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