Alcatraz** VS 4c

Rockfax Description
A fine route up a prominent crack.
1) 4a, 20m. Start up the rib as for Holloway/Crocodillo.
2) 4a, 12m. Traverse up and left over ledges and spikes to reach a spike belay below the left arete.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the blunt rib to below a groove/crack in the arete. Follow this to a bulge and move right over this to a ledge. Escape up and left to belay off a tree. © ROCKFAX

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This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/15 with max railing

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/15

ATTENTION To get to the foot of this climb, go up P1 of Holloway until you reach the (2014) abseil station. Traverse left and belay at a clump of oak trees (big spikes here) before the ground drops away again. Climb directly up from the trees to reach the foot of a corner of rusty coloured rock with lots of obvious holds and ledges: this is Alcatraz. There is a crack at the back of this corner, but it isn't "obvious" from a distance. This climb is technical and submits to patience, observation and good footwork. You can place excellent runners from safe positions all the way up. Rushing and using brute strength will probably result in a fall. There is an abseil station at the top, but the ropes were showing their age in September 2014, so bring some cord to back it up.
Pete_Frost - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Ray Sparks

Ray Sparks - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Pete_Frost

what a good route. Miked went offline for the last pitch, was really awesome!
rbharries - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/14 with karolinka, Mikey G

andybirtwistle - Lead - 20/Jul/12 with Keith Lonsdale

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/11

Liam FLeming - AltLd - 18/Aug/11 with paul james

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

David Smith - 2011

PAJames - 2011

the pull over into the niche quite tricky
JasonV - 2nd - 07/May/10 with Phil

simeclimb68 - 2010

We approached this by taking the first pitch of Holloway. I led Alcatraz and found it pretty tough. I hung around for ages below the niche trying to fiddle in some wires. The pull over was far from positive but it went OK. Good route.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Colin Maddison

Poor Wyn fell off leading this so I took over,got lost on the route trying to find niche so escaped off left via Bucket Rider,a tree and old tat before it got dark :(
ritchierich - Lead rpt - 07/Dec/08 with Wyn Price

RachubAndy - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Henry and Gav

ritchierich - Lead - 08/Oct/06 with Bob Dickson

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2005

Clucky - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/03 with Paul Dickson

Hidden - 2002

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/00 with Joe Thompson

Hidden - 2nd - 2000

kev davies - 2000

craig h - AltLd O/S - 07/Nov/98 with Rick W and Janet Hannah

Hidden - Lead - 03/Feb/98

five - Lead O/S - Feb/98

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/96 with Iain Boardman

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/94

Hidden - AltLd - 1994

Budge - Lead O/S - Nov/93 with Mike Oates

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/93

andrew300169 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/92 with Pom

mattnuttall - 2nd - 31/Mar/91 with Alan Holden

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Dec/90

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/88 with pete roberts

Hidden - 1984

Ian Jones - 1983

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 13/Mar/82 with Charlie Leverton

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/80

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Mike Owen - 14/Nov/76 with John Roberts

steve L - AltLd - 03/Apr/76 with sharpie

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 29/Jan/76

mikej - Lead - 16/Jul/74 with Mike Byles

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
bigmrp, jandyd05, climbinmunkey, Mike Parker

Total votes cast 27
hard HVS0 of 10
HVS0 of 10
easy HVS4 of 10
hard VS5 of 10
VS1 of 10
easy VS0 of 10
hard HS0 of 10
HS0 of 10
easy HS0 of 10
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a4 of 9
hard 4c5 of 9
4c0 of 9
easy 4c0 of 9
hard 4b0 of 9
4b0 of 9
easy 4b0 of 9
3 Stars1 of 8
2 Stars7 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat