Birkett's Gully*** III 4
[Blea Water Crag approach, 4 kb]130m.

Rockfax Description
130m. Undoubtedly climbed before Bill claimed it for the Birkett dynasty. The route takes the obvious gully near the centre of the crag. A steep start leads to easier climbing before the gully narrows to a technical section before the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
The most distinctive and obvious righwards trending gully sweeping up to the summit of the mountain.

Photo: Blea Water Crag approach © Mark Danson
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 73 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Pretty marginal due to rapidly increasing temperatures - I guess we should have been warier. Conan nearly got taken out by a slab of falling snow / ice. Rest of route was OK but a bit soggy
Peter Metcalfe - Solo - 07/Feb/15 with Conan Harrod

Ste lead first 2 pitches. very marginal. traversed out left rather than trying the last pitch as it was far too warm
domhowell - 2nd - 07/Feb/15 with Ste

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15

solo most, penultimate pitch a mare - should have gone right and used rope, didnt! the last pitch we roped up for but didnt need to !
lithos - 05/Feb/15 with Puma

With Rob, mostly solo, rope for top.
Puma - Solo - 05/Feb/15 with Rob Stone

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/15

Night ascent & combined with Blea Water Gully
Ste Ridd - Solo - 04/Feb/15 with Danny, M.Sadler

First ~20m of ice are great, then it was a bit less solid today, a few bare/unsound sections, generally quite banked out.
pudding - 04/Feb/15 with Rebecca Lodge

BLodge - Solo - 04/Feb/15

Not in best nick and lacking thick build up where you would expect it. Easy for the grade - very enjoyable top section. Met Tim of a post on UKC.
speedymccreedy - Solo O/S - 28/Jan/15 with Tim Seel

Traversed in after doing blea water gill. First pitch had the start of a small stream running from it. Snow pitch in middle was starting to soften. Final pitches had plenty of thick ice.
Radioactiveman - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/13 with Rog Wilko

Thawing steadily at tarn level. Lower pitches very unappealing - lots of water and rotten ice. Traversed in from top of icefall to find top pitch in superb condition - good plastic ice and no water. Incidentally, neither occasion when I've done this route has it been anything like II. If it isn't III then it's more like III/IV.
Rog Wilko - Lead - 04/Apr/13 with Karl Mason

Second route of the day! First pitch quite thin and then just gets thicker as you go higher. Bit of a squeeze on the final pitch between the umbrella's and rock wall.
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Thomas Reid

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/13

redshapedfriday - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/13 with tom anderson

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Mar/13

Poor soft conditions made bottom section difficult. Crux consisted of a few tricky moves over an undercut ice mushroom (on good ice) Belays and runners were sparse making the route quite a serious adventure. Under better conditions this would be a really good climb.
Tony Kartawick - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/13 with Mark Danson

Hidden - Solo O/S - Mar/13

Did the whole climb, good conditions. On pitch 2, below the break, there was excellent 3D ice climbing over wind shaped ice bulges
crowberry gully - AltLd - 25/Feb/13 with Ross McGibbon

BikeClimbWalk - AltLd - 25/Feb/13 with John J

Hidden - Lead - 25/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/13

Superb ice formations, shame that they had to be broken to aid progress. Ace day, cycled in, started up Blea Water Gill, did Blea Water Icefall then finished up the Birkett's Gully : )
petegunn - Lead - 23/Jan/13 with Will

Fantastic climb. I little thin at the moment. Had to leave the top bit because I didn't fancy soloing it. Finished up a nice steep patch of ice above Blea Water Gill.
jimhall - Solo O/S - 20/Jan/13

top pitch only. did blea water gill icefall then top pitch of this. ice abit wet but turf was good. hard for III
efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/13 with ste bradley

Ste_b1978 - 2nd - 20/Jan/13 with Elliot

joermann - AltLd - 16/Jan/13

peter.ravenscroft27 - AltLd - 16/Jan/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 07/Dec/12

Tim Rodgers - AltLd - 11/Feb/12 with Rod Molyneux

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/12

Good route in good condition; character building spindrift avalanches and deep snow at the top! Nice.
net - AltLd - 04/Feb/12 with Judith, Shaw

In excellent condition, weather was a bit wild for the top pitch and decent.. added to the experience!
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 04/Feb/12 with Judith Neaves, annette

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Feb/12

Soloed the lower falls, ice was generally ok, turf was not well frozen in many places. Main gully was deep in powerder snow- swimming. Top ice pitch was banked out slightly.
bigbadbob12345 - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Steve Wilson

stev1e.wilso - 2nd - 09/Jan/11 with Dylan

gordon henderson - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/11 with MRT

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/10

ClimberJimmyB - AltLd - 27/Dec/10 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/10

MDowson - AltLd - 22/Dec/10 with Jonathon Powell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Dec/10

Busy. Didn't look as good as the first half ascent.
tech - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10 with Nick

Decent nick,great weather,worthwhile route.
DPaul - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/10

First winter lead.
Jimmy1976 - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Dec/10

Beautiful day, beautiful route in top condition. Good ice all the way.
Rog Wilko - Lead - 20/Dec/10 with Graeme Cook

Decent enough route with some good ice today, although abit boggy in places so be careful with the turf
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10 with Paul Sheehan, Ian Moore, Dave Brown

1st winter route of the season to get back into the swing of things. Found the route to be good value with great ice - small section of x-country to get to final 3 pitches.
Mountain Llama - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10 with Paul S

The 3 main Ice Pitches were in be the ground in between was quite patchy and boggy in places
Conan - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/10 with Ken Taylor, Chris Michalak

3 section of good water ice, divided by scrappy/vegetated ground
Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/10 with Chris Michalak, Conan Harod

ollyroberts - Solo O/S - 06/Dec/10 with Ben

Glenn Sutcliffe - 05/Dec/10 with Charl

Only did the lower half or the route due to running out of time. This was fun, involving several short ice steps. The gully proper looked really good. Have to come back and complete. Had a fun down climb in powder snow to the north.
tech - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Nick

The waterfall is not properly frozen yet. It was a thin crust of ice with the stream still flowing underneath. It made it a little feel fairly sketchy.
IAmAStone - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Charlie Jefferson

peebles boy - 2nd - Dec/10

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jan/10

Vertical powder!
petegunn - AltLd - 22/Dec/09 with Steve

Deep powder!!
stimpey - AltLd - 22/Dec/09 with Pete

Excellent start and finish, with poor easy middle. Constant spindrift avalanches.
andrewbooth1000 - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/09 with Mark Moore

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Feb/09

Ross McGibbon - 2009

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

crowberry gully - AltLd - 07/Mar/05 with Ross McGibbon

joe larner - 2nd - Mar/05

ashpreston - 2005

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/97 with Bob Bennett, KM

craig h - AltLd O/S - Feb/95 with Janet Hannah

Hidden - 1983

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Radioactiveman, ffdalton, Simon Caldwell

Total votes cast 58
hard IV0 of 22
IV0 of 22
easy IV0 of 22
hard III1 of 22
III1 of 22
easy III15 of 22
hard II/III1 of 22
II/III2 of 22
easy II/III2 of 22
hard 50 of 0
50 of 0
easy 50 of 0
hard 40 of 0
40 of 0
easy 40 of 0
hard 30 of 0
30 of 0
easy 30 of 0
3 Stars16 of 36
2 Stars16 of 36
1 Star4 of 36
0 Stars0 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S