Rockfax Description
130m. Undoubtedly climbed before Bill claimed it for the Birkett dynasty. The route takes the obvious gully near the centre of the crag. A steep start leads to easier climbing before the gully narrows to a technical section before the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The most distinctive and obvious righwards trending gully sweeping up to the summit of the mountain.

Peter Metcalfe 07/Feb Solo

Pretty marginal due to rapidly increasing temperatures - I guess we should have been warier. Conan nearly got taken out by a slab of falling snow / ice. Rest of route was OK but a bit soggy

with Conan Harrod
domhowell 07/Feb 2nd

Ste lead first 2 pitches. very marginal. traversed out left rather than trying the last pitch as it was far too warm

with Ste
Hidden 07/Feb AltLd O/S
lithos 05/Feb -

solo most, penultimate pitch a mare - should have gone right and used rope, didnt! the last pitch we roped up for but didnt need to !

with Puma
Puma 05/Feb Solo

With Rob, mostly solo, rope for top.

Hidden 04/Feb Solo O/S
Ste Ridd 04/Feb Solo

Night ascent & combined with Blea Water Gully

with Danny, M.Sadler
pudding 04/Feb -

First ~20m of ice are great, then it was a bit less solid today, a few bare/unsound sections, generally quite banked out.

with Rebecca Lodge
BLodge 04/Feb Solo
speedymccreedy 28/Jan Solo O/S

Not in best nick and lacking thick build up where you would expect it. Easy for the grade - very enjoyable top section. Met Tim of a post on UKC.

Radioactiveman 04/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Traversed in after doing blea water gill. First pitch had the start of a small stream running from it. Snow pitch in middle was starting to soften. Final pitches had plenty of thick ice.

Rog Wilko 04/Apr/13 Lead

Thawing steadily at tarn level. Lower pitches very unappealing - lots of water and rotten ice. Traversed in from top of icefall to find top pitch in superb condition - good plastic ice and no water. Incidentally, neither occasion when I've done this route has it been anything like II. If it isn't III then it's more like III/IV.

with Karl Mason
joe.91 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Second route of the day! First pitch quite thin and then just gets thicker as you go higher. Bit of a squeeze on the final pitch between the umbrella's and rock wall.

Hidden 29/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/13 2nd
redshapedfriday 28/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with tom anderson
Hidden 24/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 23/Mar/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/13 Solo
Tony Kartawick 16/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Poor soft conditions made bottom section difficult. Crux consisted of a few tricky moves over an undercut ice mushroom (on good ice) Belays and runners were sparse making the route quite a serious adventure. Under better conditions this would be a really good climb.

with Mark Danson
Hidden ?/Mar/13 Solo O/S
crowberry gully 25/Feb/13 AltLd

Did the whole climb, good conditions. On pitch 2, below the break, there was excellent 3D ice climbing over wind shaped ice bulges

with Ross McGibbon
BikeClimbWalk 25/Feb/13 AltLd
with John J
thegoatstroker 25/Feb/13 Lead

top half only traversed in from BWG, fantastically snowy on High Street

with matt fraser
Hidden 23/Feb/13 AltLd
petegunn 23/Jan/13 Lead

Superb ice formations, shame that they had to be broken to aid progress. Ace day, cycled in, started up Blea Water Gill, did Blea Water Icefall then finished up the Birkett's Gully : )

with Will
jimhall 20/Jan/13 Solo O/S

Fantastic climb. I little thin at the moment. Had to leave the top bit because I didn't fancy soloing it. Finished up a nice steep patch of ice above Blea Water Gill.

efrance24234 20/Jan/13 Lead O/S

top pitch only. did blea water gill icefall then top pitch of this. ice abit wet but turf was good. hard for III

Ste_b1978 20/Jan/13 2nd


with Elliot
joermann 16/Jan/13 AltLd
peter.ravenscroft27 16/Jan/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/Dec/12 Solo O/S
Tim Rodgers 11/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden 11/Feb/12 2nd O/S
net 04/Feb/12 AltLd

Good route in good condition; character building spindrift avalanches and deep snow at the top! Nice.

with Judith, Shaw
Shaw Brown 04/Feb/12 AltLd

In excellent condition, weather was a bit wild for the top pitch and decent.. added to the experience!

Hidden 04/Feb/12 2nd
bigbadbob12345 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Soloed the lower falls, ice was generally ok, turf was not well frozen in many places. Main gully was deep in powerder snow- swimming. Top ice pitch was banked out slightly.

stev1e.wilso 09/Jan/11 2nd
with Dylan
gordon henderson 08/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with MRT
Hidden 27/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
ClimberJimmyB 27/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 26/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
MDowson 22/Dec/10 AltLd
with Jonathon Powell
Hidden 22/Dec/10 2nd O/S
tech 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Busy. Didn't look as good as the first half ascent.

with Nick
DPaul 21/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Decent nick,great weather,worthwhile route.

Jimmy1976 21/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

First winter lead.

Hidden 20/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Rog Wilko 20/Dec/10 Lead

Beautiful day, beautiful route in top condition. Good ice all the way.

markfairbank 19/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Decent enough route with some good ice today, although abit boggy in places so be careful with the turf

with Paul Sheehan, Ian Moore, Dave Brown
Mountain Llama 19/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

1st winter route of the season to get back into the swing of things. Found the route to be good value with great ice - small section of x-country to get to final 3 pitches.

with Paul S
Conan 12/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

The 3 main Ice Pitches were in be the ground in between was quite patchy and boggy in places

with Ken Taylor, Chris Michalak
Ken Taylor 12/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

3 section of good water ice, divided by scrappy/vegetated ground

with Chris Michalak, Conan Harod
ollyroberts 06/Dec/10 Solo O/S
with Ben
Glenn Sutcliffe 05/Dec/10 -
with Charl
tech 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Only did the lower half or the route due to running out of time. This was fun, involving several short ice steps. The gully proper looked really good. Have to come back and complete. Had a fun down climb in powder snow to the north.

with Nick
IAmAStone 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

The waterfall is not properly frozen yet. It was a thin crust of ice with the stream still flowing underneath. It made it a little feel fairly sketchy.

with Charlie Jefferson
peebles boy ?/Dec/10 2nd
Hidden 31/Jan/10 2nd
petegunn 22/Dec/09 AltLd

Vertical powder!

with Steve
stimpey 22/Dec/09 AltLd

Deep powder!!

with Pete
andrewbooth1000 12/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent start and finish, with poor easy middle. Constant spindrift avalanches.

with Mark Moore
Hidden 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/09 AltLd
Ross McGibbon ??/2009 -
John Pickles ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd
crowberry gully 07/Mar/05 AltLd
with Ross McGibbon
joe larner ?/Mar/05 2nd
ashpreston ??/2005 -
Steve Crowe 05/Jan/97 Lead O/S
with Bob Bennett, KM
FATBOYFAT ??/1996 -
craig h ?/Feb/95 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Hidden ??/1983 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Radioactiveman, ffdalton, Simon Caldwell
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 22
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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