Rockfax Description
130m. Starts just left of the lowest point of the buttress marked by a steep chimney. Up the chimney exiting left. Climb some short walls to the continuation gully which leads to easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starts not far from the tarn at the left side of the corrie where an unmissible steep, deep chimney can be spotted. Up the initial chimneys exiting left (or exiting direct at a probable IV or very stiff III) to an obvious thread belay above the chimneys at 43m. Easy ground for 30m leads to a small ampitheatre and the commencement of a series of short walls leading to the natural continuation of the gully high up - this is bordered on the right by a dihedral/buttress. The ice here can be thin and hard to protect and often forms the crux. This leads to easier ground, and eventually the top of the mountain. Note: many parties will find various grade III ice options beyond the initial chimneys and second ice wall, especially the often 'wow, I got a 25cm ice screw in that to the hilt' fat ice of the Blea Water Ice Fall, so deviations, variations and the exact line after the chimneys will vary from party to party and season to season, dependent on ice formation.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 08/Feb Lead O/S
Peter Metcalfe 07/Feb AltLd

An early start was definitely repaid but still a bit wet

Conan Harrod
Daniel Duerden 07/Feb AltLd

First pitch - lots of running water (A water fall in three sections), mostly unconsolidated snow ice with some, neve and water ice - harder than grade three moves due to collapsing of snow/ice in the chimney.

BnB 05/Feb -

Good nick with 100m of easy angled ice and the odd awkward step. Water running under though so be quick!!

Hidden 04/Feb Solo O/S
Ste Ridd 04/Feb Solo

Night ascent.

Danny, M.Sadler
Pete Rigby 03/Feb AltLd O/S
Joe Rigby, Kelli Roberts
Seymore Butt 03/Feb -
kelliroberts3 03/Feb AltLd

Led pitch 1

Richard Goodey ??/2015 Lead
Radioactiveman 04/Apr/13 -

Starting to sound a bit hollow and water can be heard running behind it. Plenty of fat ice for screws Missed out first pitch. Rog led 2nd I led 3rd and he led mian final pitch.

Somerset swede basher 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Ann S 02/Apr/13 2nd

Good ice conditions and taking in the ice fall direct.

Hidden 01/Apr/13 AltLd
John Roe 31/Mar/13 Lead
Thom Dobson (Leeming)
Ben Hollands 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic route with some excellent ice. Bit thin on the crux though (right hand line)

Wendy Anderson
John Holden 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Ice a bit thin on the main pitch, otherwise a fine day out.

Ray cassidy
tk1991 30/Mar/13 AltLd
Danny Crump 30/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
joe.91 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
asmith37 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
MartinLister 28/Mar/13 AltLd
Peter Brown
Hidden 25/Feb/13 Lead
piersnewton 23/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Dan Liddy, Adam Smith, Olly Roberts
petegunn 23/Jan/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jan/13 AltLd
Mr. K 19/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Had a scratch around the initial chimney but decided to avoid it and start above. Ice was in ok condition but deteriorated as the day went on. Some turf frozen. A great day out all in all!

Matt Bill Platypus 19/Jan/13 2nd O/S
Oceanic 17/Jan/13 -

Missed out the chimney at the start. Main pitch was well frozen, but thin.

Blue Straggler 17/Jan/13 2nd

6aPunter ??/2013 -
Rob Rocket ?/Dec/12 2nd

P1 not in. Second 2nd. Soloed best ice to the top.

Geoff Graham & Matt Gordon
phillipjohnson 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Missed bottom corner out most ice had gone. Lead first and second ice pitch.

Matt Schwarz 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
lukehunt 10/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

good ice conditions

Hidden 04/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
efrance24234 ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S

brill !

Ste_b1978 ?/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
adie84 ??/2012 -
tmawer 18/Dec/11 2nd O/S

Vertical swimming. 35 year since my last winter route...now I remember why!

Jaime Robertson
bigglesbutcha 09/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Ice a bit slushy and rotten in places, and a bit broken up. Made it all the more intresting though!

steven 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S

1st pitch

Tim Butcher
Hidden 09/Jan/11 AltLd
freemanTom 08/Jan/11 -

Not entirely sure what route did. Started from Tarn on light to right of chimney pitch as team was on it(I think)and made it to the summit. Did back off steep ice pitch half way up. Had total meltdown, numerous rests on axes taken before retreat. Totally underestimated pitch and need to work on placing screws on steep ice.

iksander 08/Jan/11 -

Not sure exactly what we climbed - apart from Birkett's Gully the whole of the rest of the crag seemed to covered in bits and bobs of ice (good from about 550m upwards). We solo'd the easier IIish stuff lower down in the centre of the crag then roped up for a steep and featured 20ft pillar which proved too much for us! Solo'd the rest and walk down the ridge in a gale.

Olli-C 04/Jan/11 AltLd

First propper ice lead, oli's first time on ice. Oli lead main pitch on the right getting runners in the rock. Ice very good in places but not everywhere.

climbingpixie 03/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
daWalt 26/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Dec/10 Lead
Tom Phillips 23/Dec/10 Solo
Hidden 22/Dec/10 Lead O/S
McDan 21/Dec/10 2nd

awesome conditions!!

Timo Austino
Timo Austino 21/Dec/10 -

had to bail just before top as due in leeds later..made meeting by 10 mins after teleporting!

Big Dan McCann
Hidden 20/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
bullwinkle 20/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
nick mattia, Bart
Hidden 19/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
ewen 18/Dec/10 Lead
Hidden 18/Dec/10 Solo O/S
ritid 09/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

only did first chimney in 2 pitches,started late, only had one ice screw so was a bit put off tackling the upper ice falls that had 2 parties already half way. good call as it was thawing rapidly and started to rain as we desended

Alison2 09/Dec/10 2nd
ilona torstensson 09/Dec/10 AltLd
Petarghh 07/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

In the dark !! its all about the night time ice climbing.

Jack Loftus 07/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Amazing route and in the dark. Epic

AMarchant 07/Dec/10 Solo

Ally led the first pitch in the Chimney but we moved together after that. Good fun though, looking forward to returning when its in full winter and chunky with ice!!

Hidden 07/Dec/10 Lead O/S
ollyroberts 06/Dec/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 06/Dec/10 Lead
Bob 05/Dec/10 Lead O/S

A busy day, had to queue/wait for quite a bit. Could take differing lines once above the first chimney, the actual grade depends on which line you take: some easy tech 4 if you take the steeper lines.

Tanya Savage 05/Dec/10 2nd

Brilliant climb, lots of ice. Headed right at top, up long steep icy ramp next to wall.

LizIan Lawton, Neil Pacey
ablackett 05/Dec/10 AltLd

Great conditions, loads of ice bottom to top.

James Osborn, Andy Wallace
Neil Pacey 05/Dec/10 2nd
Liz Lawton, Ian Lawton, Tanya Savage
jimorothy 05/Dec/10 AltLd

Fantastic, especially openning chimney pitches done straight direct. Deviated left for the Blea Water Ice Fall pitches brilliant, as long as many Scottish routes.

Rachel Crolla
Hidden 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Jimmy O 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Andy Wallace, Andy Blackett
MartF 05/Dec/10 AltLd

Quality blue sky day. Temperature on car thermometer read -11c in Mardale.

Calder 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Rich did the main pitches

RCrockford 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/10 2nd
Justin Tracey 01/Dec/10 2nd

Night time accent at nine 10 pm. lots of soft snow on the wade in! Did the first pitch then abbed off.

Steve Hall
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
r_o_b_h2 ?/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

first route of the winter season

doc butler
peebles boy ?/Dec/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 28/Nov/10 AltLd
chrisclimber_1986 20/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Alkis 20/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 10/Mar/10 AltLd

Started on Left End Fall and traversed into Main fall as chimney pitch not in

jezmiles 05/Mar/10 AltLd

As the guideboook suggests....an excellent route....and in good nick (apart from the 1st pitch which we think did not exist on the day! and so skirted above) The main pitch (taking the lefthand line) was still perfectly formed and amazing to climb!

Hidden 04/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Rog Wilko 04/Mar/10 AltLd

Avoided the second (chockstone) pitch as not enough ice. Otherwise very good conditions.

Steve Wray
Hidden 23/Feb/10 AltLd rpt
Ste Ridd 23/Feb/10 AltLd

Done as a night climb. The road out from the car park was the real adventure which got me grounded for 2 months!!

jason 23/Feb/10 AltLd rpt
moose ridd, manmike
Tenko 21/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Great day great climb.

Simon Kelly
Simon K 21/Feb/10 AltLd

As the man said, top day out

Tenko, NE
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd
Different Steve 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Hardest III I've ever done. upper section of chimney very interesting.

Hidden 20/Feb/10 2nd
redsulike 17/Feb/10 2nd β

4:30am Alarm! 5:30am set off for the Lakes! Way, way, way too early! Slept in the car. Beautiful day right from sunrise, ethereal light on the hills from Shap into Haweswater car park. First car there, quelle suprise! Walk in knackering, (too much gear- I hate winter climbing!). First on the crag, Blea water flat calm, stunning reflections. Started off ok, followed easily. Higher icefalls more demanding, but got ip without mishap, just a bit scary. Great lead by Iain of a vertical icefall of cauliflower ice, tricky exposed exit. Appearently ice was crap and screws wouldn't have held! Gordon led last pitch, well knackered he was running on reserves of nervous energy. Left sacks at bottom which was a mistake as we were thirsty and hungry and missed out on a beautiful descent down the ridge. Cracking day!

Iain Brough, Gordon Gibbons
MartinLister 17/Feb/10 AltLd

Excellent ice conditions. Superb 3rd pitch

Peter Brown
Hidden 12/Feb/10 -
twoplates 01/Feb/10 AltLd

lower section was thin and running, solo'ed the most part. good day out.

ollyroberts 14/Jan/10 Lead
Hidden 09/Jan/10 Lead
Hidden 09/Jan/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jan/10 AltLd
shaun walby 03/Jan/10 2nd

very good route

J1PEF ?/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Roch 31/Dec/09 2nd
lithos 14/Feb/09 -

getting a bit warm but all there, Jules 1st climb so pitched it, did the ice-fall to left as party on the gill line on the right. Great fun

Hidden 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jan/09 Solo dnf
ewen 05/Jan/09 Solo
atyson1 ?/Jan/09 2nd
Ross McGibbon ??/2009 -
mikemartin 06/Dec/08 Solo
Mike Hall 21/Dec/07 Solo

moderate conditions, lovely ice mushrooms, fantastic weather

cherad 08/Jan/07 2nd β
Hidden 06/Mar/06 AltLd
jimdanson 05/Mar/06 AltLd

left hand start, right hand variation on middle pitch and a variation out left at the very end.

Simon Caldwell 04/Mar/06 AltLd

Did it properly this time with rope and stuff. Felt easier than last year, not sure whether due to conditions or lack of death potential!

Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd rpt
John Pickles ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/06 2nd
John Kettle ??/2006 Lead
joe larner ?/Mar/05 2nd
Simon Caldwell 28/Feb/05 Solo

Soloing everything due to having forgotten to bring a rope! Got 3/4 of the way up the icefall pitch, got scared, and duly downclimbed, far harder than continuing.

Rob and Carmen
lithos 28/Feb/05 Solo

another great day at blea water

net ?/Feb/05 2nd

& Tom Pugh

John Kettle ??/2005 Lead
darcy1 ??/2005 -
Team touchingthecloth.com
tubby two ??/2005 AltLd
Softie P
ashpreston ??/2005 -
lithos ?/Mar/04 Solo

top day out

Graeme Shaw
andy wa ?/Feb/04 2nd O/S
Simon (dad)
Hidden ?/Jun/01 Solo
Hidden ?/Mar/01 Solo
clive-greenwood 08/Nov/99 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/96 -
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 32
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set