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Blea Water Gill** III 3

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[Blea Water Crag  Gill  + Birketts visible, 2 kb]150m. Starts just left of the lowest point of the buttress marked by a steep chimney. Up the chimney exiting left. Climb some short walls to the continuation gully which leads to easier ground. © ROCKFAX
Starts not far from the tarn at the left side of the corrie where an unmissible steep, deep chimney can be spotted. Up the initial chimneys exiting left (or exiting direct at a probable IV or very stiff III) to an obvious thread belay above the chimneys at 43m. Easy ground for 30m leads to a small ampitheatre and the commencement of a series of short walls leading to the natural continuation of the gully high up - this is bordered on the right by a dihedral/buttress. The ice here can be thin and hard to protect and often forms the crux. This leads to easier ground, and eventually the top of the mountain. Note: many parties will find various grade III ice options beyond the initial chimneys and second ice wall, especially the often 'wow, I got a 25cm ice screw in that to the hilt' fat ice of the Blea Water Ice Fall, so deviations, variations and the exact line after the chimneys will vary from party to party and season to season, dependent on ice formation.

Photo: Blea Water Crag Gill + Birketts visible © lithos
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 138 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Starting to sound a bit hollow and water can be heard running behind it. Plenty of fat ice for screws Missed out first pitch. Rog led 2nd I led 3rd and he led mian final pitch.
Radioactiveman - 04/Apr/13 with Rog Wilko

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Katharine

Good ice conditions and taking in the ice fall direct.
Ann S - 2nd - 02/Apr/13 with Foggy

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Apr/13

John Roe - Lead - 31/Mar/13 with Thom Dobson (Leeming)

Fantastic route with some excellent ice. Bit thin on the crux though (right hand line)
Ben Hollands - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Wendy Anderson

Ice a bit thin on the main pitch, otherwise a fine day out.
John Holden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Ray cassidy

tk1991 - AltLd - 30/Mar/13

Danny Crump - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with Sarah Pentelow

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13

joe.91 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Thomas Reid

asmith37 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Bex Leigh

Hidden - Lead - 25/Feb/13

piersnewton - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/13 with Dan Liddy, Adam Smith, Olly Roberts

petegunn - Lead - 23/Jan/13 with Will

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/13

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jan/13

Had a scratch around the initial chimney but decided to avoid it and start above. Ice was in ok condition but deteriorated as the day went on. Some turf frozen. A great day out all in all!
Mr. K - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/13 with Lee Parsons, Matthew Jones, James Rowe

Matt Bill Platypus - 2nd O/S - 19/Jan/13 with James Rowe, Kyle

Missed out the chimney at the start. Main pitch was well frozen, but thin.
Oceanic - 17/Jan/13


Blue Straggler - 2nd - 17/Jan/13

6aPunter - 2013

P1 not in. Second 2nd. Soloed best ice to the top.
Rob Rocket - 2nd - Dec/12 with Geoff Graham & Matt Gordon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12

Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12 with Phillip Johnson

good ice conditions
lukehunt - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/12 with max

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/12

brill !
efrance24234 - Lead O/S - Feb/12

Ste_b1978 - 2nd - Feb/12 with Elliot

Hidden - AltLd - 2012

adie84 - 2012

Vertical swimming. 35 year since my last winter route...now I remember why!
tmawer - 2nd O/S - 18/Dec/11 with Jaime Robertson

Ice a bit slushy and rotten in places, and a bit broken up. Made it all the more intresting though!
bigglesbutcha - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Swifty

1st pitch
steven - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Tim Butcher

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jan/11

Not entirely sure what route did. Started from Tarn on light to right of chimney pitch as team was on it(I think)and made it to the summit. Did back off steep ice pitch half way up. Had total meltdown, numerous rests on axes taken before retreat. Totally underestimated pitch and need to work on placing screws on steep ice.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - 08/Jan/11 with Asbo

Not sure exactly what we climbed - apart from Birkett's Gully the whole of the rest of the crag seemed to covered in bits and bobs of ice (good from about 550m upwards). We solo'd the easier IIish stuff lower down in the centre of the crag then roped up for a steep and featured 20ft pillar which proved too much for us! Solo'd the rest and walk down the ridge in a gale.
iksander - 08/Jan/11 with freemanTom (Guildford MC)

First propper ice lead, oli's first time on ice. Oli lead main pitch on the right getting runners in the rock. Ice very good in places but not everywhere.
Olli-C - AltLd - 04/Jan/11 with dad, oli robson

climbingpixie - 2nd - 03/Jan/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/10

daWalt - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/10 with Lisa

Hidden - Lead - 23/Dec/10

Tom Phillips - Solo - 23/Dec/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/10

awesome conditions!!
McDan - 2nd - 21/Dec/10 with Timo Austino

had to bail just before top as due in leeds later..made meeting by 10 mins after teleporting!
Timo Austino - 21/Dec/10 with Big Dan McCann

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/10

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/10 with nick mattia, Bart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10

ewen - Lead - 18/Dec/10 with clare-dev

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Dec/10

only did first chimney in 2 pitches,started late, only had one ice screw so was a bit put off tackling the upper ice falls that had 2 parties already half way. good call as it was thawing rapidly and started to rain as we desended
ritid - AltLd O/S - 09/Dec/10 with ilona torstensson

Alison2 - 2nd - 09/Dec/10 with matthew154

ilona torstensson - AltLd - 09/Dec/10 with richard coulson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/10

Amazing route and in the dark. Epic
Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/10 with Pete Hill

Ally led the first pitch in the Chimney but we moved together after that. Good fun though, looking forward to returning when its in full winter and chunky with ice!!
AMarchant - Solo - 07/Dec/10 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/10

ollyroberts - Solo rpt - 06/Dec/10 with Ben

Hidden - Lead - 06/Dec/10

A busy day, had to queue/wait for quite a bit. Could take differing lines once above the first chimney, the actual grade depends on which line you take: some easy tech 4 if you take the steeper lines.
Bob - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Pete

Brilliant climb, lots of ice. Headed right at top, up long steep icy ramp next to wall.
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 05/Dec/10 with LizIan Lawton, Neil Pacey

Great conditions, loads of ice bottom to top.
ablackett - AltLd - 05/Dec/10 with James Osborn, Andy Wallace

Neil Pacey - 2nd - 05/Dec/10 with Liz Lawton, Ian Lawton, Tanya Savage

Fantastic, especially openning chimney pitches done straight direct. Deviated left for the Blea Water Ice Fall pitches brilliant, as long as many Scottish routes.
jimorothy - AltLd - 05/Dec/10 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10

Jimmy O - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Andy Wallace, Andy Blackett

Quality blue sky day. Temperature on car thermometer read -11c in Mardale.
MartF - AltLd - 05/Dec/10 with Matt

Rich did the main pitches
Calder - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Rich

RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Graham

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Dec/10

Night time accent at nine 10 pm. lots of soft snow on the wade in! Did the first pitch then abbed off.
Justin Tracey - 2nd - 01/Dec/10 with Steve Hall

Hidden - Dec/10

first route of the winter season
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd O/S - Dec/10 with doc butler

peebles boy - 2nd - Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Nov/10

chrisclimber_1986 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/10 with alkis

Alkis - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/10 with Chris Aslin

Started on Left End Fall and traversed into Main fall as chimney pitch not in
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 10/Mar/10 with Foggy

As the guideboook suggests....an excellent route....and in good nick (apart from the 1st pitch which we think did not exist on the day! and so skirted above) The main pitch (taking the lefthand line) was still perfectly formed and amazing to climb!
jezmiles - AltLd - 05/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/10

Avoided the second (chockstone) pitch as not enough ice. Otherwise very good conditions.
Rog Wilko - AltLd - 04/Mar/10 with Steve Wray

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 23/Feb/10

Done as a night climb. The road out from the car park was the real adventure which got me grounded for 2 months!!
moose ridd - AltLd - 23/Feb/10 with Jason, M.Sadler

jason - AltLd rpt - 23/Feb/10 with moose ridd, manmike

Great day great climb.
Tenko - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10 with Simon Kelly

As the man said, top day out
Simon K - AltLd - 21/Feb/10 with Tenko, NE

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Feb/10

Hardest III I've ever done. upper section of chimney very interesting.
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Jeremy

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Feb/10

4:30am Alarm! 5:30am set off for the Lakes! Way, way, way too early! Slept in the car. Beautiful day right from sunrise, ethereal light on the hills from Shap into Haweswater car park. First car there, quelle suprise! Walk in knackering, (too much gear- I hate winter climbing!). First on the crag, Blea water flat calm, stunning reflections. Started off ok, followed easily. Higher icefalls more demanding, but got ip without mishap, just a bit scary. Great lead by Iain of a vertical icefall of cauliflower ice, tricky exposed exit. Appearently ice was crap and screws wouldn't have held! Gordon led last pitch, well knackered he was running on reserves of nervous energy. Left sacks at bottom which was a mistake as we were thirsty and hungry and missed out on a beautiful descent down the ridge. Cracking day!
redsulike - 2nd β - 17/Feb/10 with Iain Brough, Gordon Gibbons

Excellent ice conditions. Superb 3rd pitch
MartinLister - AltLd - 17/Feb/10 with Peter Brown

Hidden - 12/Feb/10

lower section was thin and running, solo'ed the most part. good day out.
twoplates - AltLd - 01/Feb/10 with Robbie

ollyroberts - Lead - 14/Jan/10 with Kyle

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jan/10

very good route
shaun walby - 2nd - 03/Jan/10

J1PEF - AltLd - Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Roch - 2nd - 31/Dec/09 with MRT

getting a bit warm but all there, Jules 1st climb so pitched it, did the ice-fall to left as party on the gill line on the right. Great fun
lithos - 14/Feb/09 with julie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Feb/09

Hidden - Solo dnf - 10/Jan/09

ewen - Solo - 05/Jan/09

atyson1 - 2nd - Jan/09

Ross McGibbon - 2009

mikemartin - Solo - 06/Dec/08

moderate conditions, lovely ice mushrooms, fantastic weather
Mike Hall - Solo - 21/Dec/07

cherad - 2nd β - 08/Jan/07

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/06

left hand start, right hand variation on middle pitch and a variation out left at the very end.
jimdanson - AltLd - 05/Mar/06 with danm

Did it properly this time with rope and stuff. Felt easier than last year, not sure whether due to conditions or lack of death potential!
Simon Caldwell - AltLd - 04/Mar/06 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Mar/06

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

Hidden - 2nd - Feb/06

John Kettle - Lead - 2006

joe larner - 2nd - Mar/05

Soloing everything due to having forgotten to bring a rope! Got 3/4 of the way up the icefall pitch, got scared, and duly downclimbed, far harder than continuing.
Simon Caldwell - Solo - 28/Feb/05 with Rob and Carmen

another great day at blea water
lithos - Solo - 28/Feb/05 with Toreador

& Tom Pugh
net - 2nd - Feb/05 with Jim Heath

John Kettle - Lead - 2005

darcy1 - 2005 with Team touchingthecloth.com

tubby two - AltLd - 2005 with Softie P

ashpreston - 2005

top day out
lithos - Solo - Mar/04 with Graeme Shaw

andy wa - 2nd O/S - Feb/04 with Simon (dad)

Hidden - Solo - Jun/01

Hidden - Solo - Mar/01

clive-greenwood - Solo O/S - 08/Nov/99

Hidden - 13/Jan/96

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jandyd05, andrzej kierzek, nigel pearson, Hidden, peteetheridge, Will Smith

Voting
Total votes cast 96
hard IV0 of 31
IV0 of 31
easy IV1 of 31
hard III2 of 31
III21 of 31
easy III7 of 31
hard II/III0 of 31
II/III0 of 31
easy II/III0 of 31
hard 40 of 32
40 of 32
easy 42 of 32
hard 37 of 32
321 of 32
easy 32 of 32
hard 20 of 32
20 of 32
easy 20 of 32
3 Stars5 of 33
2 Stars20 of 33
1 Star7 of 33
0 Stars1 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Soloed14 of 138 (10.1%)
Lead27 of 138 (19.6%)
Followed26 of 138 (18.8%)
Alt Leads56 of 138 (40.6%)
Unknown15 of 138 (10.9%)

'Climbed'84 of 138 (60.9%)
clean O/S47 of 138 (34.1%)
clean β2 of 138 (1.4%)
clean rpt4 of 138 (2.9%)
dnf1 of 138 (0.7%)