130m. Starts just left of the lowest point of the buttress marked by a steep chimney. Up the chimney exiting left. Climb some short walls to the continuation gully which leads to easier ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts not far from the tarn at the left side of the corrie where an unmissible steep, deep chimney can be spotted. Up the initial chimneys exiting left (or exiting direct at a probable IV or very stiff III) to an obvious thread belay above the chimneys at 43m. Easy ground for 30m leads to a small ampitheatre and the commencement of a series of short walls leading to the natural continuation of the gully high up - this is bordered on the right by a dihedral/buttress. The ice here can be thin and hard to protect and often forms the crux. This leads to easier ground, and eventually the top of the mountain. Note: many parties will find various grade III ice options beyond the initial chimneys and second ice wall, especially the often 'wow, I got a 25cm ice screw in that to the hilt' fat ice of the Blea Water Ice Fall, so deviations, variations and the exact line after the chimneys will vary from party to party and season to season, dependent on ice formation.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
An early start was definitely repaid but still a bit wet
First pitch - lots of running water (A water fall in three sections), mostly unconsolidated snow ice with some, neve and water ice - harder than grade three moves due to collapsing of snow/ice in the chimney.
Good nick with 100m of easy angled ice and the odd awkward step. Water running under though so be quick!!
|Pete Rigby||03/Feb||AltLd O/S||
Joe Rigby, Kelli Roberts
Led pitch 1
Starting to sound a bit hollow and water can be heard running behind it. Plenty of fat ice for screws Missed out first pitch. Rog led 2nd I led 3rd and he led mian final pitch.
|Somerset swede basher||03/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
Good ice conditions and taking in the ice fall direct.
Thom Dobson (Leeming)
|Ben Hollands||31/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
Fantastic route with some excellent ice. Bit thin on the crux though (right hand line)
|John Holden||30/Mar/13||AltLd O/S||
Ice a bit thin on the main pitch, otherwise a fine day out.
Dan Liddy, Adam Smith, Olly Roberts
|Mr. K||19/Jan/13||Lead O/S||
Had a scratch around the initial chimney but decided to avoid it and start above. Ice was in ok condition but deteriorated as the day went on. Some turf frozen. A great day out all in all!
|Matt Bill Platypus||19/Jan/13||2nd O/S|
Missed out the chimney at the start. Main pitch was well frozen, but thin.
P1 not in. Second 2nd. Soloed best ice to the top.
Geoff Graham & Matt Gordon
Missed bottom corner out most ice had gone. Lead first and second ice pitch.
|Matt Schwarz||12/Feb/12||AltLd O/S|
good ice conditions
Vertical swimming. 35 year since my last winter route...now I remember why!
Ice a bit slushy and rotten in places, and a bit broken up. Made it all the more intresting though!
Not entirely sure what route did. Started from Tarn on light to right of chimney pitch as team was on it(I think)and made it to the summit. Did back off steep ice pitch half way up. Had total meltdown, numerous rests on axes taken before retreat. Totally underestimated pitch and need to work on placing screws on steep ice.
Not sure exactly what we climbed - apart from Birkett's Gully the whole of the rest of the crag seemed to covered in bits and bobs of ice (good from about 550m upwards). We solo'd the easier IIish stuff lower down in the centre of the crag then roped up for a steep and featured 20ft pillar which proved too much for us! Solo'd the rest and walk down the ridge in a gale.
First propper ice lead, oli's first time on ice. Oli lead main pitch on the right getting runners in the rock. Ice very good in places but not everywhere.
dad, oli robson
had to bail just before top as due in leeds later..made meeting by 10 mins after teleporting!
Big Dan McCann
nick mattia, Bart
only did first chimney in 2 pitches,started late, only had one ice screw so was a bit put off tackling the upper ice falls that had 2 parties already half way. good call as it was thawing rapidly and started to rain as we desended
In the dark !! its all about the night time ice climbing.
|Jack Loftus||07/Dec/10||AltLd O/S||
Amazing route and in the dark. Epic
Ally led the first pitch in the Chimney but we moved together after that. Good fun though, looking forward to returning when its in full winter and chunky with ice!!
A busy day, had to queue/wait for quite a bit. Could take differing lines once above the first chimney, the actual grade depends on which line you take: some easy tech 4 if you take the steeper lines.
Brilliant climb, lots of ice. Headed right at top, up long steep icy ramp next to wall.
LizIan Lawton, Neil Pacey
Great conditions, loads of ice bottom to top.
James Osborn, Andy Wallace
Liz Lawton, Ian Lawton, Tanya Savage
Fantastic, especially openning chimney pitches done straight direct. Deviated left for the Blea Water Ice Fall pitches brilliant, as long as many Scottish routes.
|Jimmy O||05/Dec/10||AltLd O/S||
Andy Wallace, Andy Blackett
Quality blue sky day. Temperature on car thermometer read -11c in Mardale.
Rich did the main pitches
Night time accent at nine 10 pm. lots of soft snow on the wade in! Did the first pitch then abbed off.
first route of the winter season
Started on Left End Fall and traversed into Main fall as chimney pitch not in
As the guideboook suggests....an excellent route....and in good nick (apart from the 1st pitch which we think did not exist on the day! and so skirted above) The main pitch (taking the lefthand line) was still perfectly formed and amazing to climb!
Avoided the second (chockstone) pitch as not enough ice. Otherwise very good conditions.
Done as a night climb. The road out from the car park was the real adventure which got me grounded for 2 months!!
moose ridd, manmike
Great day great climb.
As the man said, top day out
|Different Steve||20/Feb/10||Lead O/S||
Hardest III I've ever done. upper section of chimney very interesting.
4:30am Alarm! 5:30am set off for the Lakes! Way, way, way too early! Slept in the car. Beautiful day right from sunrise, ethereal light on the hills from Shap into Haweswater car park. First car there, quelle suprise! Walk in knackering, (too much gear- I hate winter climbing!). First on the crag, Blea water flat calm, stunning reflections. Started off ok, followed easily. Higher icefalls more demanding, but got ip without mishap, just a bit scary. Great lead by Iain of a vertical icefall of cauliflower ice, tricky exposed exit. Appearently ice was crap and screws wouldn't have held! Gordon led last pitch, well knackered he was running on reserves of nervous energy. Left sacks at bottom which was a mistake as we were thirsty and hungry and missed out on a beautiful descent down the ridge. Cracking day!
Iain Brough, Gordon Gibbons
Excellent ice conditions. Superb 3rd pitch
lower section was thin and running, solo'ed the most part. good day out.
very good route
getting a bit warm but all there, Jules 1st climb so pitched it, did the ice-fall to left as party on the gill line on the right. Great fun
moderate conditions, lovely ice mushrooms, fantastic weather
left hand start, right hand variation on middle pitch and a variation out left at the very end.
Did it properly this time with rope and stuff. Felt easier than last year, not sure whether due to conditions or lack of death potential!
|John Pickles||?/Mar/06||AltLd O/S|
Soloing everything due to having forgotten to bring a rope! Got 3/4 of the way up the icefall pitch, got scared, and duly downclimbed, far harder than continuing.
Rob and Carmen
another great day at blea water
& Tom Pugh
top day out
|andy wa||?/Feb/04||2nd O/S||