Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The aiguille-like central tower is like a mini Cerro Torre, but sees few ascents. Approach by abseiling down Near Dark (After Dark) and then scrambling across to the central ridge that splits the quarry. From the shoulder on the right, climb stacked blocks to gain the reddish groove on the right side of the tower and a pedestal. The first and last reliable runner is here. Move round to the left side of the tower. A ledge (exfoliating!) allows movement back right to mantel the earthy summit. To belay, pull up a rope, drop it down the far side and get your belayer to run round and tie it off to the ground. Belay off this, then abseil off in a similar way. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
the largest spire in filmset quarry
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Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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The Troach
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))