Via en Coulisse** V
2400m, 10 pitches. An enjoyable semi-bolted route on slabs and cracks. The route ascends behind the south arete, giving rise to its name 'en coulisse', meaning 'backstage'. There are bolted belays and a mix of bolts and pegs on the harder pitches.
Start on the right side of the pyramid, below a triangular-shaped slab bordered on its right by a prominent gully. Begin 5m below the first bolt. Don't be confused by the cemented ring 6m to the left - this is the start of Spigolo Alpini.
1) V, 25m. Climb the vertical pillar above direct to reach a bolted belay below a bulge.
2) V, 45m. Overcome the bulge and continue vertically until the angle eases. Belay in a small hollow.
3) II, 30m. Continue direct over easy ground, aiming for an outcrop of grey rocks. Move right and above these to a belay.
4) IV+, 55m. Traverse right then climb delicately diagonally right up the slab to a belay at the base of a steep black slab.
5) V-, 30m. Climb the slab above on its left, then continue with enjoyable climbing following a vague corner to reach a belay below a vertical face, just right of the arete.
6) V, 30m. Climb the steep wall above then continue first diagonally right then direct to a belay below a short slab.
7) V-, 30m. Climb the slab then continue up a steeper wall before reaching easier rocks which lead to the ridge. Bolt belay. From here the route follows the final three pitches of Spigolo Alpini. © ROCKFAX

Fun route, first pitch is sport (6a), all belays are bolted, exit on the via ferrata. After pitch 8, the route exits on a 150m ridge, partially exposed before ending on the via Alpini. 60m double rope, 6 long extenders, 2 slings, 2 kevlars, 2 small cams (#0.5/1 Dragon), small set of small/medium nuts, 1 belay. Topo "Arrampicare in Dolomiti" (M. Bernardi).


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This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Some nice bits of climbing, with all tricky sections well protected by bolts. Not F6a, more like F5b. Rockfax description not v good for pitch 3 and 4. Basically head up and stay right, crossing a gap below a tower. At the top there is an escape off to the left of the via ferrata so you can avoid climbing the steep bit behind queues of people.
bigbobbyking - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Chris Allan

UKC Testing - 2014

Alessandro Tentori - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Luca Gasparini

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