Rockfax Description
This stupendous route is just plain hard. It tackles the slender groove running the full height of the crag via some intense and sustained moves and it regularly stops very competent climbers in their tracks.
1) 15m. Scramble up slabby rock below and right of the corner, then climb up, step right and then up to a ledge. Move up left to belay below the overhangs.
2) 6a, 35m. Climb up past the fangs then up the groove above to just below a roof. Step left into the main corner and make desperate layback moves up this to an overlap. Pull over this then continue up the still-difficult corner above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, The Tremadog 'V's', North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

WB 17/Oct Lead


with Andy M
Andy Peak 1 06/Jun 2nd

Hard fell of the crux

Misha 06/Jun Lead O/S

Quality! Pleased to get this clean, especially after the fight on Fingerlicker. Super technical with some unlikely looking moves coming up to the overhang but not that physical. Steadier above but still tricky. Deserves E4 but not that hard at the grade.

with Andy
anguskille 26/May Lead O/S

tricky committing with such thin feet, great climbing

Adam Booth 26/May 2nd O/S
markalmack 17/May Lead rpt
with sam farnsworth
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Alex Mason 22/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Ace route. Techy and strenny.

with Mikey G
Dan Vaj 28/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
mike mo ??/2014 -
owain86 24/Aug/13 2nd β

Flashed on second, ace route!

Tom Livingstone 24/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Awesome route, really technical and doesn't let up much! Fell at crux, came back down and did it clean. ropes were still clipped to gear cos im lazy.

Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 23/May/13 2nd O/S
with rich gentry
willoates 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Glad to have got this one, it had been in my head as being nails and was fully expecting to fall off. found it hard but ok.

with Luke
Luke Brooks 13/Mar/13 2nd
with Will
neilh ??/2013 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt

First led this in 1998 with Alard Hufner

with Chris Rees
Ed Babs 07/Sep/12 Lead RP

Spat off a couple of times by due to poor technique. A lesson learned. Quality route.

Owain Llewelyn 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Gareth E
datoon 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with K
Luke Brooks 12/Jul/12 2nd
with John Orr
Hidden 18/May/12 -
markalmack 06/May/12 Lead O/S

well good!

david morse 06/May/12 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 23/Jan/12 Lead dog

3 rests. Didn't help that some holds were gopping. A fantastic route. Pretty strenuous! will go clean next time. the votes reflect how I found the climb (perhaps)

samrad 23/Jan/12 2nd
with tom livingstone
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
gregoritos 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
gforce 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Felt really hard - pleased to get up it. Felt E5 to me! Must have been doing something wrong...

with Emma
Ed Booth 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with mike hawksbye
Marcus ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
soph ??/2011 Lead O/S


with Dan McManus
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Lead

Inconceivably hard, I remember feeling like I could fall off every move! Benchmark Tremadog E3...

with Helena Robinson
Mike Goldthorp 21/Nov/10 Lead dog

Argh bummer, nemesis route, so physical! Fell off at the same place as last time, was using a stoopid foothold, did it ok once I spotted a better situated one. Next tiiime! 4* benchmark E4 (never E3 like north wales rock suggested)

with Dunken
barni 10/Jun/10 Lead O/S
hepitt 17/May/10 2nd dog

Loads of falls and rests - VVV hard! very technical!

with Rob Pitt
Rob Pitt 17/May/10 Lead dog
with Helen Pitt
3 Names 01/May/10 Lead dnf
with Dan H
Luke Brooks 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Barni
Hidden 10/Feb/10 Lead
feilx 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Mike Goldthorp 07/Sep/09 Lead dog

Strenuous. Will go clean next time. Wicked fall!

with Heather
HeatherF 07/Sep/09 2nd
with Mike
AdrianP ?/Jul/09 Lead dog

A fantastic climb, rested once at the end of the crux... Got to come back to do this clean.

with Olli
dan gibson 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
Pete Graham ?/Apr/09 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with JulesV
Hidden 16/May/08 Lead dnf
Marcus ??/2008 -
Rich Kirby 05/May/07 Lead O/S

One of the best single pitch routes in NW.

with Ash
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
IOAN D 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Mills
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Aug/04 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Collis
nige 30/Mar/03 2nd
with mark hounslea
Just Another Dave ??/2001 2nd dog


with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 27/May/00 Lead
Hidden 11/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/Mar/97 Lead
with Muir Morton
richparry ??/1997 -
frank ramsay ??/1996 Lead
with clark alston
michael burrows 26/Feb/95 Lead dog

1 pt of rest

with brian jones
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
jfletcher 20/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
Nick Biven ??/1994 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
MikeYouCanClimb ??/1993 -
with Sally
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Tony Little 21/Jun/92 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with bernie bradbury
Steve Crowe 10/Jul/90 2nd O/S
with Niff
Alan James - UKC and UKH 10/Jul/90 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/90 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
keefe ?/Jul/89 -
with Johnny Adams
Chris Wright 31/May/89 Lead
Bob 22/Apr/89 Lead O/S

Ran out of quickdraws half way up so had to leap-frog the last couple to the top. Easy for the grade.

with R. Graham
uphillnow 01/Oct/88 Lead rpt

Had seconded John Stanger on the route in 1986.

with Frank Horseman
Hidden 02/Jun/88 Lead dog
shark 10/Jun/87 Lead
with Seb Grieve
Dave Musgrove 03/May/87 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
sadams 15/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 2nd
with Bill Williamson
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Steve Bell ??/1985 -
keefe 20/Apr/84 -
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
stp 29/Oct/83 Lead O/S
with Ben Moon
Ian Jones ??/1983 -


with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Mike Owen 02/May/81 -
with Phil Ralph
Mark Kemball 29/Jun/80 Lead
with Wawa
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden 05/Jun/77 AltLd
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
harry_lewis, AdrianP, EyebrowTom, jimxxx, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tomhull, mloskot, Hidden, Siderunner, jamestaylor92, Hidden, derekb, Bennykr, Mike Goldthorp, ian caton, Anthony Allsopp, a_radiohead_fan
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 27
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set