Falcon*** E1 5b
[Andy enjoying the sunshine, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A stunning route which follows the long, thin crack-line right of the corner of Vulcan.
1) 15m. As for Vulcan.
2) 5b, 35m. Climb steeply past some fangs then up the technical groove above until just below a roof where it is possible to swing right around the corner in a great position to below the crack. Climb this all the way to an 'elephant's bottom' finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Stared Tremadog E1's.

Photo: Andy enjoying the sunshine © monsteratt
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 276 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

Led the excellent main pitch. Thought it deserves e2. Sustained. Brilliant!
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/15 with Mark Stevenson

JEP - 2nd rpt - 06/Sep/15

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/15

Caution on the scramble up. IMO it's a largely unprotected, polished 4a with one move at 4b over crumbling steep loose mud & grass! The belay is spooky with at least 4 x hanging fangs haunting you from above. Belay worth E3 for scare factor! Jo lead the hard bit. Definitely E2 5c, unless your over 6ft, weighing under 70kg or tough as nails? ;-)
Pixie-Andy - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Jo Boyd

foostu4 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/15

alanblyth - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Sachi

Incredible climb, Tremadog at its finest! The starting section getting up past the fangs, the groove above and then turning the corner is absolutely nails hard and very thin! I was starting to feel sandbagged big time by the Rockfax guide by the time I got to a decent rest. Climbing gets slightly easier after but is completely sustained, very nearly fell off on the final 5ft of easy laybacking to top out! Satisfied to see that it's regarded as E2 on here, pretty much confirms what I thought at the time. Brilliant route, highly recommended to anyone operating at hard E1/soft E2
jsmcfarland - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/15 with Alan

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/15 with Gareth Hooson

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/15 with Mark Nicholson

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/15

good climbing with a nice crux at the top
Andy Peak 1 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

Misha - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Andy

cameronr11 - 2nd - 30/May/15

brilliant climbing
anguskille - Lead O/S - 26/May/15 with Adam Booth

Adam Booth - 2nd rpt - 26/May/15 with Angus Kille

excellent route. jugs lull you into a false sense of security. was already knackered when I got on it from dogging up vulcan (which is nails).
theomoore - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Roisin

adam 24 - 2nd β - 24/May/15 with Caroline

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/15

markalmack - Lead O/S - 17/May/15 with sam farnsworth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/15

Fragmod - Lead - 06/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15

pete johnson - 04/Apr/15 with BendyBennett, mike pycroft

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/15

nige pacer - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Mike Hayes, Chris Coleman

alexjz - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Tom Nichols

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/14

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 31/May/14 with tony shelmadine

bwestwood - Lead - 07/May/14

pie_eater_pete - AltLd O/S - 06/May/14

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Ian

VPJB - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/14 with James Machaffie

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Darren McMaster

Nice route with some really cool positions. Tricky finish!
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Hidden - 2014

mike mo - 2014

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

As one pitch, good climb.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Will T

tim newton - Lead rpt - 23/May/13 with rich gentry

Great climbing with nothing too hard even if it looks so from below. One of the best E1s in the country?
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Fingers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Seemed less technical than Seems the Same E1 (Slate Quarries)
Samuel Wainwright - 2nd O/S - 07/May/13 with Rafe Osborne, Sol Armer

Sol Armer - 2nd O/S - 07/May/13 with Sam Wainwright

Was on this 9 years ago, so this ascent felt like it was on-sight! Brilliant and varied route...and tough!
DavidR - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Holly Adamthwaite

Scrambled first pitch. Start of P2 is technical. Quality route.
BigTone - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

UncleMephisto - Lead O/S - May/13 with Sol Armer, Sam Wainwright

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

Rachel Somerville - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Cal

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Mar/13

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Simon Palmer

simeclimb68 - AltLd rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Ed Mtchell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13

adie84 - 2013

Worked first move past peg, rest of route sustained and hard with a few mini crux. In hindsight, awesome route!
Stuart_Burbidge - Lead RP - 20/Oct/12 with Jez Hawksworth

no falls, used peg for left hand. first pitch shite, brambles slime and choss. second pitch makes up for it. hard
rurp - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

Absolutely amazing climbing
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/12 with Tom Doldon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

mike lawrence? - 2nd - 22/Aug/12 with FatRob

Fantastic route. Good gear and rests, although the section above the peg feels a little spaced. Lovely crack to finish, only gets strenuous towards the top, with an offwidth/slopery sting in the tail!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Sam S

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Bruce Houston

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with Gareth E

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Frank Ramsey

Bruce Houston - 2nd - Jul/12 with Mike

Graham Atkins - Lead - 30/Jun/12

JulesV - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Graham Atkins

One of my best ever leads. Loved it!
Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Mike

JM - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Andrew Stripp

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12

Led part of the first easy pitch.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Will T

al99 - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Luke Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/12

Hidden - 2012

DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - 2012 with Andrew Bevan

Really good route solid to high E1 imo. Could get E2 if it were on a softer crag, but i think E1 5c is fair. Technical interest is sustained right till the very end but the gear and rests are good,amazing position on the headwall, i had to fight pulling over the last bulge. Would definately recommend to anyone solid at the grade.
Adam Moroz - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

mikeshewring - 2nd β - 05/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11

@ndyM@rsh@ll - 2nd - 12/Jul/11 with Ben Alsford

myoung - AltLd - 19/Jun/11 with Evan

heavens opened as si topped out, looked hard enough in the dry so an epic proceeded retrieving gear and ropes!
john lynch - AltLd dnf - 30/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/11

Led 2nd Pitch.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 12/May/11 with Katy Vose

Hidden - 2nd - May/11

Matt77 - 2nd - 29/Apr/11 with Owen

Brilliant route, deserves three stars. Fairly low down the E1 graded list in North Wales Rock but I thought it was fairly hard and sustained for E1, though with some good rests. In fact it's E2 5c in the '89 guide. A physical start, technical bridging, exposed but easy pull round onto the face, then three mini-cruxes, with a sting in the tail in the form of an offwidth finish. The peg seemed ok but didn't clip it as adequate other gear is available. One of the best single pitch E1s I've ever done.
Misha - Lead - 23/Apr/11 with Paul

ian d f - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 22/Apr/11 with Ian

Best all round route I think ive ever lead!! E2 for sure.
Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Al

such a awesome route, sustained all the way. E2 for sure. will lead it next time.
al123 - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with alistair

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Apr/11

dan ely - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/11 with tony (army)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/11 with rich gentry

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Apr/11

Ed Booth - 2nd - 27/Mar/11

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Ed Booth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

started up pipakin finished up falcon, a cool E2/3 route
barni - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/11 with luke

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2011

stood on the peg, excellent route
jcurley - 2nd dog - 10/Nov/10 with Mike Buddle

A (more exciting than it should be) scramble for p1. Start of the main pitch was the crux was hard, but OK once I worked out where I needed to go and fairly close to peg. Some good holds on the middle part then a couple more interesting moves at nearer the top. Good value for sure
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Tim, Andrew Abraham

Ace route, I thought it was quite hard for the grade!
Andrew Abraham - 2nd β - 07/Nov/10 with Clement Attwood

4th time!
Tim Sparrow - 2nd - Nov/10 with Monty, Andrew Abraham

So many great moves,wonderful.
mynyddresident - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10 with ben

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Sep/10

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/10 with Pete Wimbush

i would say one the best E1s at tremadog. Brilliant climbing all the way, just enough holds and zero polish
david morse - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with si lambert

dan ely - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/10 with rich

Ignoring the first pitch (as that's just a way of accessing the real climb), it's got great balanced moves with plenty of variety and enough gear not to be too worrying. Consistently interesting with a nice technical feel. Worth every one of it's stars (and then some).
Alan100 - Lead - 31/May/10

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Steve Hordley

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/10

3 Names - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Sumee Holloway

Hardest thing since accident
Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/10 with Helen Pitt

John Pickles - 2nd - 19/Apr/10 with Kieran Hodgson

hervenuttall - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with matt b

I found this very hard for E1...wonder what it will feel like at the end of the season! Very sustained. Stood on the first peg. And struggled later on.
hepitt - 2nd dog - Apr/10 with Rob Pitt

ig248 - Lead dog - 03/Mar/10

Fantatic pitch with some cool moves and loads of gear. Three star route!!
drewish - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/10 with SteveE9

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/10

mr mills - 2010 with edwin

simeclimb68 - 2010

DuckingFesperate - AltLd - 2010

centurion05 - 2010

soph - 2010

feilx - AltLd rpt - 12/Dec/09 with Andy L

A superb pitch, continually interesting and quality moves 4* pitch.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/09 with Mikey G

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/09 with alex mason

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/09

briar4012 - 2nd dog - 12/Oct/09 with Marti

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Rich bennet, Andy Davies

barni - 2nd - 21/Sep/09 with Liam fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/09 with barni

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/09

Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09 with John Evans

excellent route 3 star
Dave Almond - AltLd - 25/Jul/09 with Neil Griffiths

Tremendous, varied,sustained and with good gear throughout. Should be an absolute classic. As good an E1 as I've climbed anywhere.
NeilGriffiths - 12/Jul/09 with Dave Almond

Dave Rumney - 2nd - 13/Jun/09 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/09

Hidden - Lead - May/09

sgl - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Mallard

Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/09

metal arms - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

An amazing climb in t shirts, one of the best of this year merry christmas. Very tough for E1 considering your doing 5c moves above the peg which is below your feet.
Dale - Lead O/S - Dec/08 with johny

Stupendous route, tough for E1.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08

just one more - Lead - 26/Oct/08 with Svenn G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/May/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/May/08

ian caton - Lead O/S - May/08 with Abi

OffshoreAndy - 2nd - 26/Apr/08 with UKC Tim

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Ryan Brooks

Absolutely brilliant route. Hard in the grade but worth every minute.
ChalkBall - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Luke Brooks

Al Franks - 2nd dog - 22/Mar/08 with Harry Allan

Alasdair88 - 2nd dog - 22/Mar/08 with Harry Allen

feilx - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/08 with Heather & Mike Soldner

popov86 - AltLd - Feb/08

Julian Wedd - 2nd - 2008 with A. Howarth

barni - Lead O/S - 2008 with Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hawkscry - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Oct/07

another outstanding Tremadog E1 and one of the best E1s anywhere - open, technical and varied climbing make this a total classic!
ksjs - Lead rpt - 07/Oct/07 with goosebump

Ropeboy - Lead - 29/Sep/07

Glyn - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Trystan

One of the best routes I have ever done, very chuffed to lead this.
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Kirsten

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/07

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - Jul/07 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/06

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 01/May/05 with Nic Sellers

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

Hidden - 2005

DavidR - AltLd dog - 20/Jul/04 with John Marston

sadams - 2nd - 08/Apr/04 with Eric Hildrew

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Mar/04

spidey - 2nd - 19/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/03

Simonfarfaraway - 2nd - 2003 with Dave A

Hidden - 2002

bullybones - 2002

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Nov/01 with Stuart Greenall

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 2001 with Jo Bertalot

Nigel Coe - Lead - 07/May/00 with Don Sargeant

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

kev davies - 2000

WB - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/99 with Paul

Roget - Lead O/S - 31/May/98 with jon

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/96

The Human Fly does it again. Fantastic pitch. Last crack is strenuous coming after 110 ft of hard climbing!
Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - 25/May/96 with Martin Hore

D Tempest - Lead - 07/Apr/96 with Rick

Hidden - AltLd - 1993

Hidden - 2nd - 1993

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Nov/92

Nick Biven - Lead - 16/Aug/92 with Wil Rickards

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Mar/92

steve taylor - Lead - Mar/91 with Ket

whispering nic - Oct/90 with Graham Iles

Hidden - 2nd - 07/May/90

DDDD - 1990

Bob - 1990

Hidden - 1990

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/89 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/89

phardman - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/88

Mike Owen - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/88 with Elaine Owen

TonyF - Lead O/S - Aug/88 with Tony Cox

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 03/Jul/88 with Bill Williamson

sadams - Lead - 23/Apr/88 with Andy Mitchell

Hidden - 1988

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 25/Oct/87 with pete roberts

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/87

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/87

tapley - 2nd - 25/May/87 with John Sumner

Steve Crowe - Lead - 24/May/87 with SimonGee

ChrisJD - Lead - 21/Feb/87

Climbed this twice, once with John Warburton and again with D Lee. Always thought this tough for an E1!
Sean Kelly - 1987

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1987 with Jean Williamson, Bill Williamson

With Phil Sampson
steveboote - Lead - 1987 with Phil Sampson

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/86

wynaptomos - 2nd O/S - Apr/86

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 15/Sep/85

Hidden - 1985

Steve Bell - 1985

neilh - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/84 with simon webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/84

Too hard for me; a real struggle
Simon2005 - 2nd - 1984 with JimB

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/83

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 04/Apr/83 with Grahame Nicoll

Mark Kemball - Lead - 29/Jan/83 with Dave McCann

Ian Jones - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/82

stp - Lead O/S - 1982 with Ben Moon

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/81 with Andy W

Hammy - 2nd - 27/Jun/81 with Nick Arding

Hammy - Lead - 26/Jun/81 with Richard Sage

mikej - 2nd - 05/Sep/80 with Mike Byles

mikej - 2nd dnf - 02/Sep/80 with Mike Byles

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/80

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/80 with Dave Cowans

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/80 with Huw Watkins

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/80

Various ascents since
uphillnow - Lead - 1980

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/79

steve L - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/79 with PK

Andy Edgar - 2nd - 1979 with Geoff Douglas

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jamie Skelton, Neil, EyebrowTom, BareBears, hutchay, Mozzy, sadams601, Kevin Robert Jones, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Katex, Sebastien Gastaud, iceaxejuggler, Owen W-G, Dave Deary, SMc, Alan100

Total votes cast 234
hard E20 of 86
E22 of 86
easy E243 of 86
hard E135 of 86
E16 of 86
easy E10 of 86
hard HVS0 of 86
HVS0 of 86
easy HVS0 of 86
hard 5c0 of 67
5c2 of 67
easy 5c23 of 67
hard 5b34 of 67
5b8 of 67
easy 5b0 of 67
hard 5a0 of 67
5a0 of 67
easy 5a0 of 67
3 Stars70 of 81
2 Stars11 of 81
1 Star0 of 81
0 Stars0 of 81
Bag of .....0 of 81
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP