Rockfax Description
A stunning route which follows the long, thin crack-line right of the corner of Vulcan.
1) 15m. As for Vulcan.
2) 5b, 35m. Climb steeply past some fangs then up the technical groove above until just below a roof where it is possible to swing right around the corner in a great position to below the crack. Climb this all the way to an 'elephant's bottom' finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Stared Tremadog E1's, Caff's Cool E1s List.

JenShelley 22/May Lead O/S
nepsoi999 15/May 2nd rpt
with Agi
robpartridge 25/Apr Lead O/S

Amazing route.

with Helen
joedean 24/Apr Lead
with Emily Groves
emgroves 24/Apr 2nd
Tubs 23/Apr Lead O/S

Great route; it keeps on coming. I thought the crux above the peg was 5c though.

with AJM
AJM 23/Apr 2nd β
Ed Babs 23/Apr Lead O/S

Very enjoyable sequence meandering up the wall.

Mark Grist 17/Apr Lead O/S

Fun and enjoyable route. Felt like an easy e2 rather than hard e1 to me.

Hidden 17/Apr Lead dnf
PaulTanton 17/Apr 2nd rpt
Tophe 25/Mar AltLd O/S
with Nina
ninastirrup 25/Mar AltLd
Ollie B 19/Mar Lead β

Done a few years ago but remember it being much harder. Really good route.

with W.Calvert
Paul Collins 19/Mar AltLd O/S

Great pitch! Loads of cool moves and sequences!

with Naomi Raab, Kieran Ellis
Hidden 18/Mar Lead
Martin Dunne 18/Mar 2nd

Excellent route, like 3/4 boulder problems stacked on top of one another. Pre-victory victory beer and minimal water supplies led to severe dehydration

climbernvr ?/Mar Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
PAJames ??/2016 -
Hidden 19/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Pete_Frost 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Possibly E2 since I pulled off a crucial flake just below the niche. Sustained interest, good protection after the start. Do not underestimate the final wide crack! Excellent route.

with Scott G
JamieSparkes 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Pretty steady,certainly not pushing the top of the grade. Many harder E1s in wales, not really a crack climb, more like a heap of jugs glued onto the wall next to a crack.

with amccann
amccann 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Jamie
dswansonlow 10/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Ben A
Dizz 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Led the excellent main pitch. Thought it deserves e2. Sustained. Brilliant!

with Mark Stevenson
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd rpt
JEP 06/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
foostu4 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
alanblyth 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Incredible climb, Tremadog at its finest! The starting section getting up past the fangs, the groove above and then turning the corner is absolutely nails hard and very thin! I was starting to feel sandbagged big time by the Rockfax guide by the time I got to a decent rest. Climbing gets slightly easier after but is completely sustained, very nearly fell off on the final 5ft of easy laybacking to top out! Satisfied to see that it's regarded as E2 on here, pretty much confirms what I thought at the time. Brilliant route, highly recommended to anyone operating at hard E1/soft E2

with Alan
James Oakes 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
dicky79 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Nicholson
joedoherty 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Katie S 08/Jun/15 AltLd
with joe d
Andy Peak 1 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

good climbing with a nice crux at the top

Misha 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S


with Andy
cameronr11 30/May/15 2nd
anguskille 26/May/15 Lead O/S

brilliant climbing

Adam Booth 26/May/15 2nd rpt
theomoore 25/May/15 Lead O/S

excellent route. jugs lull you into a false sense of security. was already knackered when I got on it from dogging up vulcan (which is nails).

with Roisin
adam 24 24/May/15 2nd β
with Caroline
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead O/S
markalmack 17/May/15 Lead O/S


with sam farnsworth
Hidden 12/May/15 2nd O/S
Fragmod 06/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
pete johnson 04/Apr/15 -
with BendyBennett, MikePycroft
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Mike_Hayes 21/Mar/15 2nd
with Nige Pick, Chris Coleman
nige pacer 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Mike Hayes, Chris Coleman
alexjz 21/Feb/15 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
michael burrows 31/May/14 Lead rpt


with tony shelmadine
bwestwood 07/May/14 Lead
pie_eater_pete 06/May/14 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Ian
VPJB 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 28/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
dswansonlow 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Nice route with some really cool positions. Tricky finish!

Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 24/Aug/13 -
Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Kevster 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

As one pitch, good climb.

with Will T
tim newton 23/May/13 Lead rpt
with rich gentry
Duncan Campbell 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing with nothing too hard even if it looks so from below. One of the best E1s in the country?

with Fingers
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Samuel Wainwright 07/May/13 2nd O/S

Seemed less technical than Seems the Same E1 (Slate Quarries)

with Rafe Osborne, Sol Armer
Sol Armer 07/May/13 2nd O/S
DavidR 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Was on this 9 years ago, so this ascent felt like it was on-sight! Brilliant and varied route...and tough!

BigTone 04/May/13 2nd O/S

Scrambled first pitch. Start of P2 is technical. Quality route.

UncleMephisto ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Sol Armer, Sam Wainwright
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rachel S 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Cal
Hidden 03/Mar/13 AltLd
edmitchell 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Simon Palmer
simeclimb68 02/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
with Ed Mtchell
Hidden 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
adie84 ??/2013 -
Stuart_Burbidge 20/Oct/12 Lead RP

Worked first move past peg, rest of route sustained and hard with a few mini crux. In hindsight, awesome route!

rurp 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

no falls, used peg for left hand. first pitch shite, brambles slime and choss. second pitch makes up for it. hard

Sam Simpson 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing climbing

Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
mike lawrence? 22/Aug/12 2nd
with FatRob
Cardi 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Good gear and rests, although the section above the peg feels a little spaced. Lovely crack to finish, only gets strenuous towards the top, with an offwidth/slopery sting in the tail!

with Sam S
Michael Allday 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Gareth E
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Frank Ramsey
Bruce Houston ?/Jul/12 2nd
with Mike
Graham Atkins 30/Jun/12 Lead
JulesV 30/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Julesthe1st 06/May/12 Lead O/S

One of my best ever leads. Loved it!

with Mike
JM 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andrew Stripp
Hidden 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Clay C 28/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led part of the first easy pitch.

with Will T
al99 14/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Luke Thomas
Hidden 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Adam Moroz 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Really good route solid to high E1 imo. Could get E2 if it were on a softer crag, but i think E1 5c is fair. Technical interest is sustained right till the very end but the gear and rests are good,amazing position on the headwall, i had to fight pulling over the last bulge. Would definately recommend to anyone solid at the grade.

mikeshewring 05/Aug/11 2nd β
Hidden 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
@ndyM@rsh@ll 12/Jul/11 2nd
with Ben Alsford
Mark Young 19/Jun/11 AltLd
with Evan
john lynch 30/May/11 AltLd dnf

heavens opened as si topped out, looked hard enough in the dry so an epic proceeded retrieving gear and ropes!

Hidden 28/May/11 Lead O/S
tatz45 12/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd Pitch.

Hidden ?/May/11 2nd
Matt77 29/Apr/11 2nd
with Owen
Misha 23/Apr/11 Lead

Brilliant route, deserves three stars. Fairly low down the E1 graded list in North Wales Rock but I thought it was fairly hard and sustained for E1, though with some good rests. In fact it's E2 5c in the '89 guide. A physical start, technical bridging, exposed but easy pull round onto the face, then three mini-cruxes, with a sting in the tail in the form of an offwidth finish. The peg seemed ok but didn't clip it as adequate other gear is available. One of the best single pitch E1s I've ever done.

with Paul
Pay Attention 23/Apr/11 2nd
with Misha
ian d f 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 22/Apr/11 2nd
with Ian
Alistair Corbett 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Best all round route I think ive ever lead!! E2 for sure.

with Al
al123 19/Apr/11 2nd O/S

such a awesome route, sustained all the way. E2 for sure. will lead it next time.

Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd
dan ely 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with tony (army)
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
tim newton 08/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with rich gentry
Hidden 02/Apr/11 AltLd
Ed Booth 27/Mar/11 2nd


Adam Booth 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Speeddemonsi 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
barni 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S

started up pipakin finished up falcon, a cool E2/3 route

with luke
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
jcurley 10/Nov/10 2nd dog

stood on the peg, excellent route

monsteratt 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

A (more exciting than it should be) scramble for p1. Start of the main pitch was the crux was hard, but OK once I worked out where I needed to go and fairly close to peg. Some good holds on the middle part then a couple more interesting moves at nearer the top. Good value for sure

with Tim, Andrew Abraham
Andrew Abraham 07/Nov/10 2nd β

Ace route, I thought it was quite hard for the grade!

Tim Sparrow ?/Nov/10 2nd

4th time!

mynyddresident 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

So many great moves,wonderful.

with ben
Hidden 17/Sep/10 2nd
Jim Slater 25/Aug/10 2nd O/S
david morse 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

i would say one the best E1s at tremadog. Brilliant climbing all the way, just enough holds and zero polish

with si lambert
dan ely 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with rich
Alan100 31/May/10 Lead

Ignoring the first pitch (as that's just a way of accessing the real climb), it's got great balanced moves with plenty of variety and enough gear not to be too worrying. Consistently interesting with a nice technical feel. Worth every one of it's stars (and then some).

Dave Reeve 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Hordley
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
Hidden 10/May/10 Lead
3 Names 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Hardest thing since accident

with Helen Pitt
John Pickles 19/Apr/10 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S


with matt b
hepitt ?/Apr/10 2nd dog

I found this very hard for E1...wonder what it will feel like at the end of the season! Very sustained. Stood on the first peg. And struggled later on.

with Rob Pitt
ig248 03/Mar/10 Lead dog
drewish 10/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Fantatic pitch with some cool moves and loads of gear. Three star route!!

with SteveE9
Hidden 10/Feb/10 2nd O/S
mr mills ??/2010 -
with edwin
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 AltLd
centurion05 ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
feilx 12/Dec/09 AltLd rpt
with Andy L
Alex Mason 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S

A superb pitch, continually interesting and quality moves 4* pitch.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Marti999 12/Oct/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 12/Oct/09 2nd dog
with Marti
Sgt. Vest 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd O/S
barni 21/Sep/09 2nd
Liam FLeming 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S


with barni
Hidden ?/Sep/09 2nd
Oliver Sherman 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Almond 25/Jul/09 AltLd

excellent route 3 star

NeilGriffiths 12/Jul/09 -

Tremendous, varied,sustained and with good gear throughout. Should be an absolute classic. As good an E1 as I've climbed anywhere.

with Dave Almond
Dave Rumney 13/Jun/09 2nd
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 23/May/09 2nd
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
sgl 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Mallard
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead
metal arms 02/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Dale ?/Dec/08 Lead O/S

An amazing climb in t shirts, one of the best of this year merry christmas. Very tough for E1 considering your doing 5c moves above the peg which is below your feet.

with johny
Andrew Sloan 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Stupendous route, tough for E1.

just one more 26/Oct/08 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 11/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 26/Apr/08 2nd
with UKC Tim
Luke Brooks 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
ChalkBall 05/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Absolutely brilliant route. Hard in the grade but worth every minute.

Al Franks 22/Mar/08 2nd dog
with Harry Allan
Alasdair88 22/Mar/08 2nd dog
with Harry Allen
feilx 02/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Heather & Mike Soldner
popov86 ?/Feb/08 AltLd
Julian Wedd ??/2008 2nd
with A. Howarth
barni ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hawkscry ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd
ksjs 07/Oct/07 Lead rpt

another outstanding Tremadog E1 and one of the best E1s anywhere - open, technical and varied climbing make this a total classic!

Ropeboy 29/Sep/07 Lead
Glyn 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Trystan
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd
Owain Llewelyn ?/Jul/07 Lead
with Dad
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 20/Aug/06 Lead
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 01/May/05 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
DavidR 20/Jul/04 AltLd dog
with John Marston
sadams 08/Apr/04 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Mar/04 Lead
greedo ??/2004 2nd
with Tim bray
spidey 19/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 2nd
with Dave A
Hidden ??/2002 -
bullybones ??/2002 -
Mark Riley ?/Nov/01 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Just Another Dave ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Jo Bertalot
Nigel Coe 07/May/00 Lead
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
kev davies ??/2000 -
WB 12/Oct/99 Lead O/S
with Paul
Roget 31/May/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/96 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 25/May/96 2nd O/S

The Human Fly does it again. Fantastic pitch. Last crack is strenuous coming after 110 ft of hard climbing!

with Martin Hore
D Tempest 07/Apr/96 Lead
with Rick
IanGilbertJones 07/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Hidden ??/1993 2nd
Hidden 15/Nov/92 2nd
Nick Biven 16/Aug/92 Lead
with Wil Rickards
Hidden 21/Mar/92 2nd dog
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead
with Ket
whispering nic ?/Oct/90 -
with Graham Iles
Hidden 07/May/90 2nd
DDDD ??/1990 -
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 30/Apr/89 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
steveb2006 30/Apr/89 Lead
with Pam Prior
phardman 29/Oct/88 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 15/Aug/88 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
TonyF ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
with Tony Cox
Rob Davies ?/Aug/88 Lead dnf

Date? Backed off P1.

with Mick Moss
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 03/Jul/88 Lead
with Bill Williamson
sadams 23/Apr/88 Lead
with Andy Mitchell
Hidden ??/1988 -
michael burrows 25/Oct/87 Lead rpt
with pete roberts
Hidden 27/Aug/87 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/87 Lead
tapley 25/May/87 2nd
with John Sumner
Steve Crowe 24/May/87 Lead
Hidden 21/Feb/87 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/1987 -

Climbed this twice, once with John Warburton and again with D Lee. Always thought this tough for an E1!

Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 Lead
with Jean Williamson, Bill Williamson
steveboote ??/1987 Lead

With Phil Sampson

with Phil Sampson
Martin Bennett 23/Aug/86 -

Just me Brian at the crag. Nice bloke. Good climber

with Brian Roberts, IW
Hidden 01/Apr/86 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Apr/86 2nd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 15/Sep/85 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 -
Steve Bell ??/1985 -
neilh 11/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with simon webster
Hidden 01/Aug/84 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1984 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/83 2nd
Bruce Kerr 04/Apr/83 Lead
with Grahame Nicoll
Mark Kemball 29/Jan/83 Lead
with Dave McCann
Ian Jones ??/1983 -
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/82 2nd
stp ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Ben Moon
mark-abz 26/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Hammy 27/Jun/81 2nd
with Nick Arding
Hammy 26/Jun/81 Lead
with Richard Sage
The Reaper 29/Mar/81 2nd O/S
mikej 05/Sep/80 2nd
with Mike Byles
mikej 02/Sep/80 2nd dnf
with Mike Byles
Hidden 20/Jul/80 Lead
Mike Owen 20/Apr/80 Lead rpt
with Dave Cowans
Mike Owen 07/Apr/80 Lead O/S
with Huw Watkins
Hidden 05/Apr/80 2nd
uphillnow ??/1980 Lead

Various ascents since

William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1980 -
kjacks ??/1980 Lead O/S

One of the best!

with Steve Peak
Hidden ?/Oct/79 Lead O/S
steve L 14/Mar/79 Lead O/S
with PK
Andy Edgar ??/1979 2nd
with Geoff Douglas
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 95
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 90
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set