Window Gully** II/III
[Window Gully, 2 kb]140m.

Rockfax Description
140m. Initially poorly defined although usually spotted by a little icy corner approx 100m up the hill from Central Gully. Climb icy steps with good stances until the well defined upper gully is entered. Either climb this direct or exit via the steep little pitch on the right wall. A very reliable early season route. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Window Gully © ox
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This climb is in 294 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

Snow on approach slopes softish graupel but dry. Started up first pitch on mix of good ice and pretty poor ice in places, but some good turf in general, sparse gear. Good belay for partner to lead up to the window to another okay belay. I led final pitch, up some nice ice on left, although in back of main crack, very soft and kicking through to running water/slush. OK if kept to sides and using turf on either sides. Bomber belay at top to bring up 2nd. Great route, just a bit sparse and cruddy in places.
TAG_UTLEY - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/15 with Georgia

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/15

Hidden - Mar/15

jacksonak47 - 2nd - Mar/15

nrhardy - Solo O/S - 27/Feb/15

Andrew Holden - Solo - 22/Feb/15

Alt leads. I did 2&4 on ok(isn) ice but thawing/marginal in places. Thaw setting in. Finished up the RH icefall which was bomber and fat !!
Jim Haydock - AltLd - 17/Feb/15 with David bell

crowberry gully - 17/Feb/15 with Jim Haydock

Nice route - reasonable condition.
Tim Sparrow - 17/Feb/15 with Geoff Thomas

A lovely climb, soft (ish) snow in between the ice pitches but pretty frozen all the way. the ice fall in good nick
paulh.0776 - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/15 with peter

mfisher - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Dave Ayris

DSM - Solo - 07/Feb/15

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Feb/15

Soloed the p1 and then led p2 with a couple of steep awkward ice steps. Clay led p3 before Harry led Window Gully Fall to finish. Good condition.
Ragingpossum - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Clay Conlon, harry kingston

Wonderful climb in stunning conditions, I led P2 and Pierce led the icefall. This was still good to climb but on the way out.
TomGB - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Pierce Ferris

Clay C - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Will B, Harry K

Lovely day but ice melting
John Green - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/15 with Ian Harwood, Pete Darbyshire

lots of nice ice in the gully, the icefalls on the exits were a bit delicate
crowberry gully - Lead - 05/Feb/15 with Martin

First go at 'proper' winter climbing. Some exciting ice pitches, excellent neve on top pitch, plenty of snow elsewhere.
buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 05/Feb/15

jjclarke70 - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/15

petrch - AltLd - 01/Feb/15 with james clarke

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/15

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/15

Good Snow ice/ neve/ water ice in the main gully. Excellent climbing. However, the two alternative finishes were dripping/ streaming/ pouring with water at 1pm!
Daniel Duerden - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/15

Colin Scotchford - 24/Jan/15

Good route. Some soft ice lower down, good ice higher up. Getting thin in places on lower to middle of the route,
Davp - AltLd - 24/Jan/15

Better than Central today with several ice steps and better ice.
petegunn - Solo - 22/Jan/15

djbeaumont - 2nd - 19/Jan/15 with Al shorrock

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jan/15

I led pitch 1&4, dark by time we finished
Tony Ryland - AltLd - 18/Jan/15

Tony Ryland - AltLd - 18/Jan/15 with Andrew Lodge, Steve Barby

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jan/15

A bit thin and protection was sparse but very enjoyable, led third pitch. All pitches and the climb were longer then the guidebook description.
Andrew Lodge - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/15 with Tony, Steve

ArranLaird - Lead - Jan/15 with Rhys whitehouse

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

annastudholme - Solo - 2014 with Mike N, John Worrall

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/13

Night Accent
Ste Ridd - Solo - 10/Apr/13 with M.Sadler

Rob Rocket - Lead - 08/Apr/13 with Allister Clark

tom144807 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Karl Wood

Right hand icefall finish
WillCass - AltLd - 06/Apr/13 with Si

landy813 - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13

I led pitch 1, bit of an icey corner, Tom led p2&3 - icey 5m wall under quickly melting icefall of window gully right hand, then belay and up again to the top - Alpine weather- where was that sun-cream!
Woodiee - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Tom Pitchforth

Pohil - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/13

Still in very good nick with fat ice though right hand exit looks like an easy ramp.
Ann S - 2nd - 04/Apr/13 with Mark F

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Apr/13

David Cowley - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Chris Main

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/13

Think we did this alt lead?
Andy27 - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Simon Gee

BenTiffin - AltLd - 02/Apr/13 with Dan Robinson

robgixer - Lead - Apr/13

Hidden - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - 29/Mar/13

Metalbear - 2nd - 29/Mar/13 with John James McEvoy

AndyT1151 - 28/Mar/13

tk1991 - AltLd - 27/Mar/13 with Tom Woolley

Hidden - Lead - 25/Mar/13

Climbed with Jamie, he did all the hard work. Conditions great, left hand exit and right hand ice fall both possible. We took the left hand exit.
Puma - AltLd - 13/Mar/13 with Jamie Brown

Pitched from just below the first ice step (my lead). Did direct finish (my lead) but right-hand variation looked good. Great conditions and fantastic weather.
Jamie Brown - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/13 with Puma

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Mar/13

2nd and 3rd pitches
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Nik Goile

Good neve, frozen turf and a couple of short ice pitches. The steeper right hand finish is in. You can wander around and make it bottom end grade II or wander around and make it bottom end grade III
team fat belly - 02/Mar/13 with Chris

chrisallan - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13

pete40 - AltLd - 02/Mar/13 with phil

Simnel - AltLd - 01/Mar/13 with Mark, Alan

redshapedfriday - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/13 with tom anderson

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/13

solo to ice fall which paul led with some interest, Great fat shiny ice today (and blue skies)
lithos - 28/Feb/13 with Puma

Soloed to the ice fall, lead this ice pitch. Interesting at the top, may need to invest in new cramps soon. Great fun and Ice in Great condition.
Puma - Lead - 28/Feb/13 with Rob Stone

Lee Sheard - AltLd rpt - 25/Feb/13 with neil

Hidden - Solo - 24/Feb/13

Pete Rigby - Solo O/S - 24/Feb/13

DSM - Solo - 23/Feb/13

good nick.
jolly - 23/Feb/13 with ss

Via the right ice fall variation.Grade III in the conditios
Simnel - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 23/Feb/13

A quality day out! Left Alnwick at 6am, walking into Great End at 9am, a fantastic ascent of Window Gully (including the first and final ice-fall pitches) which was all is perfect condition (thick ice, good neve, cold & dry & not too busy!) a descent of Cust's Gully and back to Alnwick for beers in my local!
carlh - 22/Feb/13 with michaelb1

bullybones - Solo - 21/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13

ali newman ukc - AltLd - 12/Feb/13 with goose299

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/13

petegunn - 2nd - 10/Feb/13 with Will, Ash, Tom, Davina

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Feb/13

Two Cams Tom - AltLd - 10/Feb/13 with Ash

Pitch 1 and 3
Eddie1234 - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/13 with Fraser Hill-Casey

riven - Solo - 25/Jan/13 with Gareth Halenby

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jan/13

Tom Keaveny - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/13 with Cal

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Dec/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Dec/12

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Dec/12

petegunn - Solo - 12/Dec/12

Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 12/Dec/12 with Conan

alan barnes - 11/Dec/12 with chris hig

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Dec/12

Underwhelmed by the window, but route had some cracking steps in it. Great fun.
freemanTom - Solo - 10/Dec/12 with Jason Wood

good route, last pitch was still in pretty good condition, the first few were a bit sketchy though
Joby - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Rosse Dalton Vandendorpe

Evident thawing but still lovely ice pitches between 'sugary' snow slopes. Great day out especially with the Upper Icefall finish which was phat! (but over too quickly!)
jezmiles - 2nd - 14/Feb/12

10029759 - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/12

Wet/thawing snow but ice AOK (at 8:30AM).
DSM - Solo - 12/Feb/12

kirsten - 2nd - 12/Feb/12 with Paolo Fubini

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Feb/12

Pete23 - AltLd - 11/Feb/12 with Stephen Mors

+ upper icefall finish
morsy - AltLd - 11/Feb/12 with peter berwick

Up the RH icefall (wall & groove finish)
elliptic - Solo - 11/Feb/12

adamwesthead - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/12 with Hoult

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Feb/12

exit'd up right exiting!
Charlie Zephyr Booth - Solo O/S - 07/Feb/12

cox - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Daz

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2012

Dan0Me - AltLd - 17/Dec/11 with Josh C

Very nice route, good neve snow, the chimney was very thin so passed it to the right.
bigbadbob12345 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Steve Wilson

stev1e.wilso - AltLd - 30/Jan/11 with Dylan

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jan/11

upper icefall finish
Lee Sheard - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with John Hubbard

soloed to final icefall which peri led today. some good steps on the way
lithos - 07/Jan/11

soloed first two pitches then took upper icefall finish.
pebbles - Lead - 07/Jan/11 with rob

Jack Loftus - Solo - 03/Jan/11

Petarghh - Solo - 03/Jan/11

Hidden - Solo rpt - 03/Jan/11

Led pitches 1 (directly up iced slabs) and 3 (quite hacked to pieces with not much ice left and lots of frozen turf exposed). Climbed icefall on the right to finish as the direct way was very baked out with only a short ice pitch.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Mike

pitch 3 hacked
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with kev anderson

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 02/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Timo Austino - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Dec/10

First winter lead, so not much for comparison but seemed quite thin. Moonlight ascent, pretty special views from the top.
JRae - AltLd - 20/Dec/10 with Steve J

With Matt Forshaw. Wall to wall blue sky. Temp around -10 at valley level.
MartF - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/10 with Matt

Liam Martin - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10 with Steve Smith, Gary Brumwell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10

gazb - 2nd - 19/Dec/10 with steve smith, liam martin

gazb - 2nd - 19/Dec/10 with steve smith, liam martin

joeydurkin - Solo - 18/Dec/10 with Jockey

bit thin on P1 and P2. Very cold enjoyable route
ojp - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/10 with Andy

John Pickles - Solo O/S - 13/Dec/10 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Dec/10

Dave Mason - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/10 with Adam Gill

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Dec/10

MikeLeeds - Solo O/S - 12/Dec/10 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - Solo - 12/Dec/10 with Mike Nuttall

Adi Hooper - Solo - 11/Dec/10

fulton333 - 2nd - 07/Dec/10 with Heather Mack, Joe Fennel

joe_lancs - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/10

Timo Austino - 06/Dec/10 with Big Dan McCann

A little sparse with the ice making a couple of tricky moves. Great days climbing though!
nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/10 with Ian Philips

First climb of the season, very lean. Not much ice and mainly neve, the chimney had very little ice and was very committing. Brilliant though
joe.91 - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/10 with Ant Eccles

nmoysey - AltLd - Dec/10 with Trev

DaveAtkinson - AltLd - Dec/10 with M.Lawton

McDan - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/10

McDan - AltLd - 29/Nov/10

tk1991 - 2nd - 28/Nov/10

Petarghh - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/10 with tk1991, ccraigg22

ccraigg22 - 2nd rpt - 28/Nov/10 with Peter Hill

AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/10 with Stu Air

Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Mark Fyles

Climbing by numbers...
DSM - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Andy Gittins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - Solo - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Mar/10

Conan - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/10 with Marisa, Steve Wray

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 07/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/10

Excellent climb, plenty of ice and in good nick too!
Ben Hollands - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/10 with Wendy Anderson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - Mar/10

Peter Sowerby - 2nd - 27/Feb/10 with Harmony Smith, Martin Smith, John Holden

Hidden - Solo - 20/Feb/10

MikeLeeds - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - AltLd - 20/Feb/10 with Mike Nuttall

Hidden - Solo - 18/Feb/10

petegunn - Lead - 17/Feb/10 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/10

Gav Parker - 2nd - 13/Feb/10

Hidden - Solo - 12/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/10

The lower section leading to "upper ice fall finish". Good quality route HOWEVER a team climbing above on the "Wall & Groove Finish" were hacking it to pieces and were sending down LARGE BLOCKS OF ICE (without warning), a couple of which hit me resulting in a cut face and a bruised arm. Definitely worth getting on but keep an eye on the routes above.
liamlonsdale - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/10 with Tom Hull

tomhull - Lead rpt - 08/Feb/10 with Liam Lonsdale

good condition.
alan barnes - AltLd - 07/Feb/10 with luke, lucy w

tjmillen - Solo - 06/Feb/10

The Mountain Goat - Solo rpt - 06/Feb/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Feb/10

gw66 - 06/Feb/10

chrisclimber_1986 - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/10 with Chris Nawrat

Adam1973 - Lead rpt - 04/Feb/10 with Ann S

First visit to Great End and this is a super route done on good fat ice. Finished up the right hand ice fall.
Ann S - 2nd - 04/Feb/10 with Adam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/10

ccraigg22 - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/10 with Nick

Hidden - Feb/10

ernieb182 - Lead O/S - Feb/10

Shuttsie - Feb/10 with Andrea Sales

Early doors before the crowds.
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - Solo - 31/Jan/10

Excellent conditions and there was no-one in the gully. I descended Cust's which was again as good as it gets. Most of the climbs on Great End had parties on when I came down. The ground was frozen solid down to Seathwaite Farm.
BFP - Solo - 31/Jan/10

Two nice ice pitches on approach to narrowing of the gully. Then climbed beautiful steep ice on the right to exit - really really nice!
Karlos - Solo O/S - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jan/10

By moonlight and by myself, got to top at 1am. What a foolish idea, not to be repeated! Normal finish, which was an overhanging bulge.
andrewbooth1000 - Solo rpt - 30/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10

Led P2, finished on the icefall on the right which was in good nick.
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Paul Sheehan, Ian Moore

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Andy Chadwick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10

Conan - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Chris Michalak

Grabbed a glorious weekend in the lakes, high pressure system, beautiful, cold, bright sunshine, perfect conditions; views as far as you like. A long walk in to Great End, (absolutely knackering carrying so much gear), place was packed but managed to get on the route without queueing. Overall not too difficult, Keith led, I folowed easily but need more practise and confidence before I lead. At the 'window' took the right hand icefall, quite steep and exhausting on legs removing ice screws. Keith wantedto do SE Gully but I was too tired. Grand day out!
redsulike - AltLd β - 30/Jan/10 with Keith Walkley

Hidden - Solo - 26/Jan/10

John Kettle - Solo - 26/Jan/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Jan/10

ollyroberts - Solo - 24/Jan/10

Hidden - 24/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/10

dave josling - 2nd RP - 23/Jan/10

tomhull - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/10 with matt harris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jan/10

Good photo of andrea at belay - start of variation finish
Shuttsie - 2nd O/S - Jan/10 with Andrea Sales

djmarko75 - Solo - Jan/10

clint87 - 2nd - Jan/10

Hidden - Lead - Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

paul79 - 2010

biggianthead - 24/Dec/09 with T

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Mar/09

Rapidly disintegrating but still good sport
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 16/Feb/09 with Anita Goldsworthy

martinazando - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/09 with Ed Luke

never really found the route proper... But still found some interesting climbing.
MDowson - AltLd - 13/Feb/09 with sam trefgarne

Finished by upper icefall finish.
andrewbooth1000 - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/09 with Mark Moore

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Feb/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Feb/09

teflonpete - 2nd β - 07/Feb/09 with Diccon

I got the ice pitch opposite The Window. It was dripping, but solid.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/09 with Guido

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Feb/09

Pete Graham - Solo - Feb/09

sheffieldchris - 2009

Tim Sparrow - 2009

mikemartin - Solo - 10/Dec/08

Hidden - Solo - 10/Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/08

jon eccles - AltLd - 07/Dec/08 with cris fisher

Led pitches 1 and 3. Unbelievably good climb - obviously it's all in the conditions, loved surprise amphitheatre at the window. 3 'because I could' ice screws as runners on pitch 1 - we weren't sure we'd use an ice screw all day before setting off! Final party of the day meant final depleted ice on final ice wall, but still absolute magic. Beats Scotland any day (as long as it's one of the best Lakeland winter days for years - of course: bloody global warming!).
jimorothy - AltLd - 07/Dec/08 with Scott Barnett

kenneM - AltLd - Feb/08 with Steve Marner

Sean Kelly - 2008

Falling down as we climbed but great fun was had.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 27/Jan/07 with simon blythe

Nick lead all the climb apart from a little solo at the bottom. Despite the warm weather the condition was reasonable. Exit via Upper Icefall Finish
The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/07 with Nick Roberts, Dave Barter

nmwr - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/07 with Jonathan Miles, Dave Barter

soloed most, Rob led the big icefall on the wall opposite the window
Simon Caldwell - 22/Mar/06 with Rob and Carmen

Exited via the variation finish, which was in fantastic condition.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 22/Mar/06 with Foggy

solo some, led top bit opposite window which was nice.
lithos - 22/Mar/06 with carmen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/06

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Mar/06

biggianthead - 18/Mar/06 with HT

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Mar/06

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/06

ewen - AltLd - Mar/06 with the kettle

John Kettle - AltLd - 2006

Dave Latimer - Solo - 06/Mar/05

Hidden - Lead - 27/Feb/05

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Feb/04

ashpreston - 2004

beermonkey - AltLd - Dec/03 with alan

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - Feb/00 with Matt Newman, Lucy Prins

petegunn - AltLd - 2000 with Matt Wilkes

icescrew - Solo - Jan/98

icescrew - Solo - Feb/97

NeilGriffiths - 1997 with Duncan

Unroped ascent in good ice and neve - did the variation finish
EddieA - Solo - 05/Apr/96 with Simon W

biggianthead - 02/Jan/95 with C

craig h - Solo O/S - Feb/91

Mick King - Solo - 27/Jan/91

malc - 2nd - 12/Jan/91 with DW

Hidden - Dec/90

stuart58 - Solo - 12/Apr/89

Martin Haworth - Solo - Feb/87

biggianthead - Solo - 01/Mar/86

My first Lakes winter climb.
Steve Crowe - 2nd O/S - 12/Jan/86 with Bob Bennett

Hidden - 1985

Hidden - Solo - 14/Apr/84

biggianthead - 25/Mar/84 with x, Malcolm, G

biggianthead - 26/Feb/84 with G

biggianthead - 18/Feb/84 with G

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/84

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Apr/83

biggianthead - Jan/82 with M

Hidden - AltLd - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Retro Rowan, Jonny M, OllieF, gavinpeach, Jonathan Spooner, cballard, iksander, mightybobbins, tom_holdsworth, Tom Vivian, a13x, jandyd05, James Mackin, Jim Haydock, Will Smith

Total votes cast 96
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III1 of 48
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hard II/III5 of 48
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP