Rockfax Description
A different kind of Tremadog route with a slightly adventurous feel. Start below a recess at the far right-hand end of the buttress reached by the vegetated path below the crag.
1) 4b, 35m. Climb up to a right-facing corner. Follow this over a steep bulge on good holds to some ledges. Continue to a tree-filled gully above (possible belay). Climb the gully to a big tree a little below a traverse-line out right.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb up then make a delicate traverse out right to the arete, which is climbed to the top.
Descent - Abseil off down the left side of the buttress (looking out) but take great care not to get your ropes stuck in the trees. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
As at May 21: Sling & carabiner left at top as no ab station there.
Ticklists
George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bex82 | 8 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Start of the climb is very vegetated with brambles. Rope management is key belaying to stop the ropes getting stuck on the trees and brambles. Adventurous climb and absail off. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Start of the climb is very vegetated with brambles. Rope management is key belaying to stop the ropes getting stuck on the trees and brambles. Adventurous climb and absail off. |
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| MattyDredge | 7 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Secateurs would be useful for both the walk in and the climb (especially the start). Treat all rock with suspicion until tested and proven secure. Otherwise, fantastic adventure picking a route upwards with plenty of exposure. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Secateurs would be useful for both the walk in and the climb (especially the start). Treat all rock with suspicion until tested and proven secure. Otherwise, fantastic adventure picking a route upwards with plenty of exposure. |
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| Blake | 31 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The small blunt spike is the only real option for abseil. Don’t bother looking for better alternatives or a walk off, we looked for ages and got prickled to death and ended up back where we started. We did a 2 pitch ab using the other small oak in the corner - looks a bit iffy but it’s solid enough. I think you’d be lucky to get the ropes back if you pulled the rope from the full height and there’s no way back up except to reclimb. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The small blunt spike is the only real option for abseil. Don’t bother looking for better alternatives or a walk off, we looked for ages and got prickled to death and ended up back where we started. We did a 2 pitch ab using the other small oak in the corner - looks a bit iffy but it’s solid enough. I think you’d be lucky to get the ropes back if you pulled the rope from the full height and there’s no way back up except to reclimb. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog)
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The Gem
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))