Adventurous climbing with brambles, a large nest (unoccupied) and some loose rock. Superb 5b finish and an excellent clean ab straight back down. Not for the faint hearted though. KeithW - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Manky Steve, Helen C
I would advise steering clear of this route. No idea why it gets 2 stars. Horrendously overgrown and covered in brambles and some weird muddy slime at the bottom. The approach alone took a lot of effort and there was not really any clear path. The first pitch was actually good fun and had nice moves, but the quality of the rock was poor which meant I had little trust in my gear.
Belayed at the big ledge and brought Sam up who was immediately gripped my his fear of heights. I brought Stevie up and our plan was for me to climb up another 10m or so to where the guide book implied there was a decent sized, tree filled ledge where Sam would not feel quite so exposed.
The next section featured an ok chimney and then 10m of pretty poor climbing and poor rock whilst enduring the stench of a nearby owls nest (unpopulated). Then there was a brief but enjoyable tricky slab leading to a large block belay. It was obvious that this belay was even smaller and more exposed then the last one and i realised Sam would not be able to cope with it. I decided by best bet would be to climb all the way to the top and belay him from there so he would not have to wait around on small ledges.
Unfortunately as i thought i was only going up 10m or so and then stevie was going to lead the final pitch, I didn't take my gear back from the first pitch. I got up to the final section and had pretty much used all the gear I had. I had also forgotten that the guidebook said to traverse out left and though that the finish was direct. This looked HARD (funny that with it being HVS) and i didn't fancy climbing it without any gear.
I went back down to the block belay and brought Stevie up with my gear (after he got the ropes terribly tangled at the first ledge and had to un-tie to sort them out). We then got in another tangle which took a while to sort out before I continued the lead (after Stevie informed me to traverse out right).
The final traverse was actually very good, exposed moves as there are little in the way of handholds.
I finally got to the top, by this point Sam had been Sitting on the ledge being scared shitless of the height/exposure for over 2 hours.
I decided to bring sam up first, leaving Stevie on the block belay so he could offer sam advice as he came up. Sam got to the final traverse section and then was to terrified to committ to the moves out right. I then had to bring Stevie up with the plan being to do an assisted hoist to get sam up.
But then stevie couldn't remember how to do the hoist. we ended up both putting sam on belay on different ropes and hauling inch by inch as he took his weight off the ropes.
But even with sam at the top our ordeal wasn't over. We were dubious that our ropes would reach the bottom for an ab down and sam's nerves wouldn't have coped anyway. We decided to walk down but there was no decernable path of any kind and we spend a good hour trudging through pretty thick brambles which ripped our legs to shreads before we finally found the decent. Overall this route took us 6 hours from leaving the campsite to start it to finally arriving back at camp.
SuperLee1985 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Sam Tucker, stevie lee
StevieLee - 2nd - 21/Jun/14 with Lee Cammann
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14
No descent described in the guide and I didn't fancy the abseil, it had snagged ropes written all over it so we scrambled up the crag to the fence. Horrendous, brambles, holly, no path, one of the worst descents I have done. Pleasant climb, pity about getting on and off it.
caradoc - AltLd - 15/Mar/14 with Matt H.
mikej - 2014
climb the peak - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/13 with tommy moore
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/13
J.Atkins - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13
P1, interesting if unlikely at the grade, few loose bits but very different to your usual Tremadoig fare
lithos - AltLd - 06/May/13 with graham b, donal
I led pitch 1, C led 2+3 in one. Interesting route, very different from typical Tremadog fare. Brilliant first pitch up unlikely terrain, steep with massive holds and interesting route finding. Second half was let down somewhat by the big tree.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with Carmen
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13
Graham Booth - AltLd O/S - May/13 with Rob
Led pitch 1, 2, and 3 to the tree just before the traverse in one big pitch. Ropes got stuck on abseil, and it was hard to find the top to retrieve them, lots of bramble cuts. Worth it though as a really good route.
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Julian Sorrell, Maia
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/13
simeclimb68 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Ed Mtchell
edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Simon Palmer
First trad lead on last pitch
henry.jeffreys - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Mauricio Santos
AmandaJG - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/12
Led P1, a few hollow blocks, but not too unnerving.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Dave
myoung - Lead O/S - Apr/12 with Helen
Callum Anderson - 2012
cballard - 2012
jordan taylor - Lead O/S - 2012
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Nov/11
jamestaylor92 - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with shaymarriott
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11
Liam FLeming - AltLd - 18/Aug/11 with paul james
dpmUK - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Jen
OMG worst abseil EVER (I truly suck at abseiling & then the ropes got stuck...)
arctic_jen - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Dan
Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11
Led the first two pitches together as one, Ben led the final pitch. Amazing climb.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Ben Ram
thecurlyone - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with mariannekhoo
Seb led first two pitches by mistake, only meaning to lead first pitch! This meant I thought I was leading the second pitch, when in fact I was climbing the HVS 5b direct finish! I thought it was hard because of my hangover! There is a loose large slab above the belay on this pitch, which rocks, and doesn't appear that safe. On this pitch, I rested on a piece of gear, after getting in three pieces of gear, but would have down-climbed to rest if I had known I was on the HVS finish! A pull on the loose slab, and some finger jamming and lay-backing got me to the top of this pitch, sweating, and pleased to be there. OK looking abseil ring on some OK looking rope at the top allowed us to get down quickly!
kim.mulji - AltLd dog - 10/Apr/11 with Sebastien Gastaud
PAJames - 2011
PAJames - 2011
shaymarriott - 2011
Pretty well summed up by the previous comments. Little confidence in the slaty rock for climbing on or pro. Did the first two pitches in one. 20ft below the belay and it's 'proper' rock and the serious feel of the climb disappears. Wouldn't be much fun if your confidence is low.
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Dickie
Nice moves required on the first pitch. The second pitch is quiet delicate and exposed when moving over to the arete.
Chris Perry - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10
Good climb - difficult start on what feel like quite delicate flakey holds
JasonV - AltLd - 09/May/10 with Phil
craig h - AltLd dnf - 02/May/10 with Janet Hannah
justin burgoyne - Lead O/S - Mar/10
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09
will6459 - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/09
Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/09
First pitch feels intimidating due to quality of the rock and angle of all of the ledges. Look out for the peg round corner on the right at first belay.
WARNING: Flake in the corner of the third pitch (of the variant) is loose and could come off and take out the belayer.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/08 with Ben
Only the 1st and 2nd pitches. Ab'ed off the tree on the third pitch as we were time constrained by our course and practicing skills.
rich_greeny - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Toby Pitts-Tucker
fizzychewitt - AltLd - 07/Jun/08 with Colin
daveagriff - Lead - 2008
Hidden - 2008
Heddwyn lead the firs two pitches and i lead the third
gareth scott borthwick - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Heddwyn Fletcher
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/07
Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - 23/Jun/07 with Tyrone saunders
Ing - 2nd - 16/Jun/07 with Hal and James
Keith Jones - 2nd - 16/Jun/07 with David
halhorner - AltLd - 16/Jun/07 with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson
Matt Tranter - 2007
fran04 - 2nd - 2007
mikelaing - 2006
Simon Palmer - May/05 with Colin Riggs
abercolin - AltLd - May/05 with Simon Palmer
Hidden - 2005
Hidden - 28/Sep/02
Hidden - 2002
auld al - AltLd O/S - May/01
Lead pitches 2 & 3
MartinN - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/00
chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/00 with Dan Bailey
timmy-ts - 2000
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/99
kitkat78 - 2nd - Feb/98 with Ben S
nice little traverse at the top
Ian Archer - AltLd - 23/Jun/97 with Danny Hale
Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/96 with Iain Boardman
five - AltLd O/S - Apr/96 with TW
David had not climbed with placed protection before.
iskra2000 - Lead - 11/May/95 with David ? (French)
Budge - AltLd O/S - Nov/93 with Mike Oates
Pete_Frost - Lead O/S - Jul/93 with Judy Ling Wong
babymoac - 2nd - 25/Apr/93 with Big Steve
Iain Thow - Lead - 08/Nov/92 with Pram Singh
timreynolds - Lead - 22/Jun/91 with Paul Moon, Jason King
andrew300169 - Lead - 1991 with Pom
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Dec/90
Hidden - 1988
route abandoned as very large block shifted when we climbed up it
Babika - AltLd dnf - Sep/86 with Fred Cochrane
Melok - 1984
Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981
Took client up it
David Smith - Lead - 1980
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
ewar woowar - Lead - 1980
Hidden - Apr/78
Bolt Phobia - Solo - 25/Feb/76 with John Broadwell
granitbahn - AltLd - 1975
Tom V - 1973
auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1971 with Bangor Outdoor post grad folk