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Hogmanay Hangover** HS 4b

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Hogmanay Hangover Direct Finish >>
[Hogmanay Hangover, pitch 3, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Photo: Hogmanay Hangover, pitch 3 © caradoc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 96 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Adventurous climbing with brambles, a large nest (unoccupied) and some loose rock. Superb 5b finish and an excellent clean ab straight back down. Not for the faint hearted though.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Manky Steve, Helen C

I would advise steering clear of this route. No idea why it gets 2 stars. Horrendously overgrown and covered in brambles and some weird muddy slime at the bottom. The approach alone took a lot of effort and there was not really any clear path. The first pitch was actually good fun and had nice moves, but the quality of the rock was poor which meant I had little trust in my gear. Belayed at the big ledge and brought Sam up who was immediately gripped my his fear of heights. I brought Stevie up and our plan was for me to climb up another 10m or so to where the guide book implied there was a decent sized, tree filled ledge where Sam would not feel quite so exposed. The next section featured an ok chimney and then 10m of pretty poor climbing and poor rock whilst enduring the stench of a nearby owls nest (unpopulated). Then there was a brief but enjoyable tricky slab leading to a large block belay. It was obvious that this belay was even smaller and more exposed then the last one and i realised Sam would not be able to cope with it. I decided by best bet would be to climb all the way to the top and belay him from there so he would not have to wait around on small ledges. Unfortunately as i thought i was only going up 10m or so and then stevie was going to lead the final pitch, I didn't take my gear back from the first pitch. I got up to the final section and had pretty much used all the gear I had. I had also forgotten that the guidebook said to traverse out left and though that the finish was direct. This looked HARD (funny that with it being HVS) and i didn't fancy climbing it without any gear. I went back down to the block belay and brought Stevie up with my gear (after he got the ropes terribly tangled at the first ledge and had to un-tie to sort them out). We then got in another tangle which took a while to sort out before I continued the lead (after Stevie informed me to traverse out right). The final traverse was actually very good, exposed moves as there are little in the way of handholds. I finally got to the top, by this point Sam had been Sitting on the ledge being scared shitless of the height/exposure for over 2 hours. I decided to bring sam up first, leaving Stevie on the block belay so he could offer sam advice as he came up. Sam got to the final traverse section and then was to terrified to committ to the moves out right. I then had to bring Stevie up with the plan being to do an assisted hoist to get sam up. But then stevie couldn't remember how to do the hoist. we ended up both putting sam on belay on different ropes and hauling inch by inch as he took his weight off the ropes. But even with sam at the top our ordeal wasn't over. We were dubious that our ropes would reach the bottom for an ab down and sam's nerves wouldn't have coped anyway. We decided to walk down but there was no decernable path of any kind and we spend a good hour trudging through pretty thick brambles which ripped our legs to shreads before we finally found the decent. Overall this route took us 6 hours from leaving the campsite to start it to finally arriving back at camp.
SuperLee1985 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Sam Tucker, stevie lee

StevieLee - 2nd - 21/Jun/14 with Lee Cammann

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14

No descent described in the guide and I didn't fancy the abseil, it had snagged ropes written all over it so we scrambled up the crag to the fence. Horrendous, brambles, holly, no path, one of the worst descents I have done. Pleasant climb, pity about getting on and off it.
caradoc - AltLd - 15/Mar/14 with Matt H.

mikej - 2014

climb the peak - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/13 with tommy moore

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/13

lead P1+3
J.Atkins - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13

P1, interesting if unlikely at the grade, few loose bits but very different to your usual Tremadoig fare
lithos - AltLd - 06/May/13 with graham b, donal

I led pitch 1, C led 2+3 in one. Interesting route, very different from typical Tremadog fare. Brilliant first pitch up unlikely terrain, steep with massive holds and interesting route finding. Second half was let down somewhat by the big tree.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13

Graham Booth - AltLd O/S - May/13 with Rob

Led pitch 1, 2, and 3 to the tree just before the traverse in one big pitch. Ropes got stuck on abseil, and it was hard to find the top to retrieve them, lots of bramble cuts. Worth it though as a really good route.
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Julian Sorrell, Maia

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/13

simeclimb68 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Ed Mtchell

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Simon Palmer

First trad lead on last pitch
henry.jeffreys - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Mauricio Santos

AmandaJG - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/12

Led P1, a few hollow blocks, but not too unnerving.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Dave

myoung - Lead O/S - Apr/12 with Helen

Callum Anderson - 2012

cballard - 2012

jordan taylor - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Nov/11

jamestaylor92 - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with shaymarriott

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Liam FLeming - AltLd - 18/Aug/11 with paul james

dpmUK - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Jen

OMG worst abseil EVER (I truly suck at abseiling & then the ropes got stuck...)
arctic_jen - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Dan

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11

Led the first two pitches together as one, Ben led the final pitch. Amazing climb.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Ben Ram

thecurlyone - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with mariannekhoo

Seb led first two pitches by mistake, only meaning to lead first pitch! This meant I thought I was leading the second pitch, when in fact I was climbing the HVS 5b direct finish! I thought it was hard because of my hangover! There is a loose large slab above the belay on this pitch, which rocks, and doesn't appear that safe. On this pitch, I rested on a piece of gear, after getting in three pieces of gear, but would have down-climbed to rest if I had known I was on the HVS finish! A pull on the loose slab, and some finger jamming and lay-backing got me to the top of this pitch, sweating, and pleased to be there. OK looking abseil ring on some OK looking rope at the top allowed us to get down quickly!
kim.mulji - AltLd dog - 10/Apr/11 with Sebastien Gastaud

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

shaymarriott - 2011

Pretty well summed up by the previous comments. Little confidence in the slaty rock for climbing on or pro. Did the first two pitches in one. 20ft below the belay and it's 'proper' rock and the serious feel of the climb disappears. Wouldn't be much fun if your confidence is low.
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Dickie

Nice moves required on the first pitch. The second pitch is quiet delicate and exposed when moving over to the arete.
Chris Perry - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10

Good climb - difficult start on what feel like quite delicate flakey holds
JasonV - AltLd - 09/May/10 with Phil

craig h - AltLd dnf - 02/May/10 with Janet Hannah

justin burgoyne - Lead O/S - Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

will6459 - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/09

First pitch feels intimidating due to quality of the rock and angle of all of the ledges. Look out for the peg round corner on the right at first belay. WARNING: Flake in the corner of the third pitch (of the variant) is loose and could come off and take out the belayer.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/08 with Ben

Only the 1st and 2nd pitches. Ab'ed off the tree on the third pitch as we were time constrained by our course and practicing skills.
rich_greeny - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Toby Pitts-Tucker

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 07/Jun/08 with Colin

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Heddwyn lead the firs two pitches and i lead the third
gareth scott borthwick - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Heddwyn Fletcher

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/07

Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - 23/Jun/07 with Tyrone saunders

Ing - 2nd - 16/Jun/07 with Hal and James

Keith Jones - 2nd - 16/Jun/07 with David

halhorner - AltLd - 16/Jun/07 with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson

Matt Tranter - 2007

fran04 - 2nd - 2007

mikelaing - 2006

Simon Palmer - May/05 with Colin Riggs

abercolin - AltLd - May/05 with Simon Palmer

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - 28/Sep/02

Hidden - 2002

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/01

Lead pitches 2 & 3
MartinN - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/00

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/00 with Dan Bailey

timmy-ts - 2000

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/99

kitkat78 - 2nd - Feb/98 with Ben S

nice little traverse at the top
Ian Archer - AltLd - 23/Jun/97 with Danny Hale

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/96 with Iain Boardman

five - AltLd O/S - Apr/96 with TW

David had not climbed with placed protection before.
iskra2000 - Lead - 11/May/95 with David ? (French)

Budge - AltLd O/S - Nov/93 with Mike Oates

Pete_Frost - Lead O/S - Jul/93 with Judy Ling Wong

babymoac - 2nd - 25/Apr/93 with Big Steve

Iain Thow - Lead - 08/Nov/92 with Pram Singh

timreynolds - Lead - 22/Jun/91 with Paul Moon, Jason King

andrew300169 - Lead - 1991 with Pom

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Dec/90

Hidden - 1988

route abandoned as very large block shifted when we climbed up it
Babika - AltLd dnf - Sep/86 with Fred Cochrane

Melok - 1984

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

Took client up it
David Smith - Lead - 1980

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

ewar woowar - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Apr/78

Bolt Phobia - Solo - 25/Feb/76 with John Broadwell

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Tom V - 1973

auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1971 with Bangor Outdoor post grad folk

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Moonwolf, Hidden, cmarsden5, MikeStuart26, Hidden, dansmonkeytroubles, Chewie, Ander, Hidden, LittleJoe, rabid, Hidden, gilldando, Mike Parker

Voting
Total votes cast 43
hard VS0 of 15
VS0 of 15
easy VS3 of 15
hard HS6 of 15
HS6 of 15
easy HS0 of 15
hard S0 of 15
S0 of 15
easy S0 of 15
hard 4c0 of 15
4c0 of 15
easy 4c0 of 15
hard 4b0 of 15
4b15 of 15
easy 4b0 of 15
hard 4a0 of 15
4a0 of 15
easy 4a0 of 15
3 Stars0 of 13
2 Stars8 of 13
1 Star2 of 13
0 Stars2 of 13
Bag of .....1 of 13
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 96 (1.0%)
Lead21 of 96 (21.9%)
Followed11 of 96 (11.5%)
Alt Leads44 of 96 (45.8%)
Unknown19 of 96 (19.8%)

'Climbed'49 of 96 (51.0%)
clean O/S42 of 96 (43.8%)
dogged1 of 96 (1.0%)
dnf4 of 96 (4.2%)