UKC

17m. A challenging, exciting and very bold climb with a sting in the tail. Never been repeated so top rope practice is highly recommended.

Start in the right hand side of the cave 2 meters right of Hung Parliament. Climb directly up and reach for blind jug above and right of the most overhung section. Reach left to the jug to the left of the most overhung section and, avoiding Hung Parliament crack, make powerful dynamic moves directly over the overhang. Move rightwards slightly and climb the delicate and unprotected vertical weakness in the centre of the main face. Move awkwardly left onto more easy ground and follow up and left to the left edge of the grass break at half height and the first protection.

Move right onto grass verge and climb the bulging central face with difficulty using pockets for the right hand and slopers for the left until a good ledge for feet can be reached on the left (Can be protected with creative use of 2 nuts in pocket). Move up and left to exit past the stakes used for Parliament Wall and Hung Parliament.

A rope belay point at the top of the rock (as per Hung Parliament) is recommended to make safe the easy but messy exit.

James Coleman, Dean Jones 29/Jul/2013.

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