|10m. This DWS route starts roughly in the middle of the Magical Mystery Tour at the low hanging black block and climbs the steep series of roofs above to the huge guano covered ledge. Start on the left of the block (looking in). Swing up onto the block and climb along it to its right hand corner. From here make some strenuous moves up and then left to a large jug beneath another roof. Move out left from here and up through the roof to a rest beneath another roof. Climb out to the right hand side of this roof and up through some more steep terrain to finally finish on the huge white guano covered ledge. To get back down, either jump off into the sea, or traverse off to the right and down-climb some steep terrain back to the sea-level ledge. Mid tide is recommended where it falls into the 'S0' category!
The right hand, more direct, start to this route was also climbed on 02/09/2013 by James Mitchelmore and goes at F6b. Enjoy! :)|
James Mitchelmore 02/Sep/2013
Photo: Guinness (6b/+ S0) first ascent © James