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Old Ladies' Route 5.2

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5 pitches. The route starts at the obvious notch between Cockscomb and Humphrey's Head. The route moves around the west face to the east face and ends on the summit of the south peak. Don't forget to sign the register at the summit! There are multiple descent routes, but your options are limited unless you have two ropes. Communication can be difficult on the second pitch. Pitch 1. Climb up through the notch towards the left side and at the top reach a belay point with a nice view to the east. This is graded as a 5.0, some of the local guides will climb this without a rope, but it isn't recommended. Pitch 2. Start with a step down to a traverse to the right. There is a short, left facing flake, make a bold step to the right onto it. Make your way through a few trees. Climb up right to a ledge with a dead tree where you will find a small rock bridge, handy for a good anchor point. Pitch 3. Climb up a large detached flake for about 30m which tops out at the summit ledge. A first aid box is also located here. Pitch 4. Scramble on class 3 terrain towards the South Peak summit. Pitch 5. Some climbers will scramble the final pitch to the summit unaided (class 4) however there is a small tree on the east side you can anchor from. To descend, reverse pitch 5. There are multiple routes down, but if you have one 60m rope you can make it down in three rappels. Rappel down the east face from a tree with a sling and rapp rings to a small ledge. The second rappel starts from bolts to the right down to a ledge with a tree about 5m to the left. The final rappel can be made from here down to the upper Broadway Ledge. This is a busy face so watch out for climbers heading up on Conn's East below.
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Totally exposed climb! But worth it once you are on top of the summit. A random swarm of wasps awaited us at the summit, but we signed the register! Although this is graded a 5.2, there is a lot of exposure so it felt a lot harder. Pitch one felt like a 5.0, we scrambled it without a rope. Pitch two had the hardest move and felt exposed so felt like a hard 5.2. Pitch 3 felt like a 5.2, pitches 4&5 were scrambles. Pitch 4 we didn't need a rope, but used a rope for pitch 5. Glad we did because there was a swarm of wasps at the top!
dbriggs1 - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Chris Fenning

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hard 5.30 of 1
5.30 of 1
easy 5.30 of 1
hard 5.21 of 1
5.20 of 1
easy 5.20 of 1
hard 5.10 of 1
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easy 5.10 of 1
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