Rockfax Description
Quality and varied crack-and-groove work. Start up the steep groove on the left-hand side of the central bay of the cliff.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the groove then move left to a flake. The continuation crack is good value and needs a determined approach, as does the exit. Move left to a belay on Creagh Dhu Wall's beefy tree.
2) 5c, 24m. The long groove is technical, sustained and well protected to a leftwards exit - more full-on climbing. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

spidermonkey09 14/Sep AltLd O/S

P1. Hate jamming cracks so was pretty psyched with this. Amazing kneebar halfway up. The real crux is the final mantel!

Ella7 14/Sep AltLd O/S

Led p.2, pulled the rope and did it ground up after falling at the peg. Amazing route with contrasting pitches, classic Jo Brown quality hard route!

robpartridge 06/Sep AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
KeenClimber 05/Sep AltLd

Lead P2

with Jim Nutall
jimxxx 29/Aug AltLd dog

Rested before the last moves at the top of the first pitch as knackered . Chris did a great job on the second pitch and had a small fall at the start where it was a bit tricky .rest of the pitch felt tough as well .

guy757 24/Aug -
Hidden 15/Aug AltLd
cem 14/Jun AltLd dnf

I led p1 (albeit it with the assistance of some heather when topping out) but neither of us could do p2 so, after a bit of dangling and a lot of swearing on my part, we gave up and did p2 of Creagh Dhu Wall instead.

Kirill 14/Jun 2nd dnf

After having a close look at P2, I was quick to bail. Charles had a few goes at it but gave up too. Escaped via the top pitch of Creagh Ddu Wall.

paul79 07/Jun 2nd dog
soph 23/May AltLd rpt
with Helena Robinson
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Ian craigie ??/2015 AltLd
kyaizawa 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Great route and athletic moves, but tricky and hard work, as can be expected of a JB route!!

Misha 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Quality! The ''overhanging crack" on P1 isn't really overhanging, it's just an awkwardly leaning jamming groove. That was fine until the top out, which was desperate! The finishing hold was a sloper which was covered in dirt and not very positive. Climbed down a bit to place a cam for confidence as had run it out a bit (take a cam 3), back up but still looked hard and not an easy position to hang around in, so pulled on a heather bush with one hand to get a foot up, desperate deeds! The second pitch looks easy but it's anything but, really good technical bridging and weirdness. Led both.

with Ed
dswansonlow 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The first pitch felt easier than I expected (still tricky though) but the last move mantling out of the crack nearly had me off. Led second pitch as well which was superb!

with Harry Wickham
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 26/Mar/14 2nd dog
with James Machaffie
Bob ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 11/Oct/13 AltLd rpt
Mark Warnett ?/May/13 Lead O/S

1st pitch only, required some beans

with Jim Duthie
khawk 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with DT
Duncan Campbell 07/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

led p2. Both pitches felt of similar difficulty, the first was thrutchy and strenuous, the second technical goodness! Sustained all the way. ***

with Fingers
Hidden 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
markalmack 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p1

simeclimb68 03/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
with Adam Booth
Adam Booth 03/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, what a battle up the first crack!

with Simon Palmer
Owain Llewelyn 20/Oct/12 AltLd
with Gareth E
Ewan Russell 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Halla
wi11 31/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Ben
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Only 2nd pitch as 1st was wet so combined with Creahg Dhu 1st pitch

with Ant, Ben
PAJames ??/2012 -
Owain Llewelyn ??/2012 AltLd
with Gareth E
AdrianP 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Olli
dan ely 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with tony (army)
kdalzell 19/Jun/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 19/Jun/11 -

short pumpy first pitch techy second pitch very good route

with karen dalzell
david morse 09/May/11 AltLd O/S

A brilliant route. Another Tremadog classic that feels hard for the grade!

with Glyn+Alex (Romania)
Glyn 09/May/11 Lead dog

Came on to rain just as I got to the top of the 1st pitch. Foot slipped on a wet hold. Amazing route, both pitches are defiantly some of the best in the area

nige 03/Apr/11 AltLd
with mark hounslea
Hidden ?/Apr/11 AltLd
Tommy Cole 08/Mar/11 2nd

Nails first pitch! Good fun seconding!

with Alex Mason
Alex Mason 08/Mar/11 Lead dog

My favourite E2 in Wales. Two superb, contrasting pitches. The upper corner does everything you could ask of it.

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Sandy Simpson 11/Aug/10 -


with Ross Hewitt
barni 16/May/10 AltLd O/S


with luke
Luke Brooks 16/May/10 AltLd
with Barni
wolf.leeb 13/May/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

mynyddresident 13/May/10 AltLd

Well protected 1st pitch but very awkward. A slight sting in the tail aswell. 2nd pitch much easier but techy.

Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
simonp ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
phil64 ?/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
soph 01/Jan/10 -
mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
Hidden ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd dog
Tim W 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

First pitch DR, Second pitch TW

Hidden 20/Jun/09 AltLd dog
dan gibson 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with chris
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead
cavemancolumbus ?/Mar/09 2nd dog

My first E2. I now know that i can't climb E2. Yet

with dan
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 28/Sep/08 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
jake-jones ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Only climbed P1.

with Juha
Hidden 29/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
spidey 21/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ??/2004 Lead O/S

Superb. Pitch 1 is easy!

with Karen Ghiselli
goi.ashmore 14/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 22/Feb/03 Lead
simon kimber ??/2002 2nd
with Tony Penning
Simonfarfaraway ??/2002 AltLd
with Dave A
shoulders 23/Jul/01 Lead
with dai
Rich Kirby 30/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
WB 19/Oct/99 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden ?/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
ian caton ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 21/May/95 Lead O/S
michael burrows 14/May/95 AltLd rpt

lead 2nd pitch

with brian jones
frost ?/May/95 AltLd
with J Turner
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
bullybones ??/1995 -
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Hidden 03/May/93 AltLd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hamish Leslie ??/1993 AltLd O/S

Great route

with Ste Lawler
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/91 Lead
with Niel
Nick Biven 03/May/91 Lead
with Ian Sherrington
nigehughes ?/Jun/90 AltLd
with Nick Sharpe
Hidden 07/May/90 Lead
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
surfbish ?/Mar/88 Lead O/S
Neil R 25/Jul/87 AltLd
with Richard W
Bruce Kerr 23/Oct/85 Lead
with Bill Wilson
Hammy 13/Jun/85 AltLd
with Colin Struthers
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1985 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
rob.grafton ??/1985 2nd dnf
with Matthew Bransby
TonyF ?/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Tony Cox
Mark Kemball 17/Jun/84 AltLd
Hidden 21/Apr/84 AltLd
Hidden ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
steve L 26/Jun/83 Lead
with Clive Curle, Alun Richardson
Hidden 23/Apr/83 AltLd
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
uphillnow 19/Sep/82 AltLd O/S

Did pitch 1 and 2

with Dave Booth
Hidden 13/Jul/82 AltLd
Rob Davies ??/1982 Lead dnf

Date? Arms faded part way up P1. Did part of Creag Dhu Wall to retrieve gear.

with Angus McLean
Hidden ??/1980 -
steve L ??/1977 -
Mike Owen 12/Dec/76 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
petemeads ??/1976 AltLd
Falko 22/Mar/75 Lead O/S
with Al W.
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Sean Kelly ?/Sep/73 -
with Bob Millward
rockofades ??/1973 AltLd
with MC
mikej 17/Apr/67 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, jimxxx, Kipper-Phil Smith, Hidden, hutchay, Hidden, Dave Deary, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan
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