The Wasp*** E2 5c

Rockfax Description
Quality and varied crack-and-groove work. Start up the steep groove on the left-hand side of the central bay of the cliff.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the groove then move left to a flake. The continuation crack is good value and needs a determined approach, as does the exit. Move left to a belay on Creagh Dhu Wall's beefy tree.
2) 5c, 24m. The long groove is technical, sustained and well protected to a leftwards exit - more full-on climbing. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

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This climb is in 138 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

P1. Hate jamming cracks so was pretty psyched with this. Amazing kneebar halfway up. The real crux is the final mantel!
spidermonkey09 - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/15 with Ellie Fuller

Led p.2, pulled the rope and did it ground up after falling at the peg. Amazing route with contrasting pitches, classic Jo Brown quality hard route!
Ella7 - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/15 with Jim Hulbert

robpartridge - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/15 with Tom Nichols

Lead P2
KeenClimber - AltLd - 05/Sep/15 with Jim Nutall

Rested before the last moves at the top of the first pitch as knackered . Chris did a great job on the second pitch and had a small fall at the start where it was a bit tricky .rest of the pitch felt tough as well .
jimxxx - AltLd dog - 29/Aug/15

guy757 - 24/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/15

I led p1 (albeit it with the assistance of some heather when topping out) but neither of us could do p2 so, after a bit of dangling and a lot of swearing on my part, we gave up and did p2 of Creagh Dhu Wall instead.
cem - AltLd dnf - 14/Jun/15 with Kirill Spiridonov

After having a close look at P2, I was quick to bail. Charles had a few goes at it but gave up too. Escaped via the top pitch of Creagh Ddu Wall.
Kirill - 2nd dnf - 14/Jun/15 with Charles Moreton

paul79 - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/15

soph - AltLd rpt - 23/May/15 with Helena Robinson

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Ian craigie - AltLd - 2015

Lead both pitches. Great route and athletic moves, but tricky and hard work, as can be expected of a JB route!!
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Mike Mason

Quality! The ''overhanging crack" on P1 isn't really overhanging, it's just an awkwardly leaning jamming groove. That was fine until the top out, which was desperate! The finishing hold was a sloper which was covered in dirt and not very positive. Climbed down a bit to place a cam for confidence as had run it out a bit (take a cam 3), back up but still looked hard and not an easy position to hang around in, so pulled on a heather bush with one hand to get a foot up, desperate deeds! The second pitch looks easy but it's anything but, really good technical bridging and weirdness. Led both.
Misha - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Ed

The first pitch felt easier than I expected (still tricky though) but the last move mantling out of the crack nearly had me off. Led second pitch as well which was superb!
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Harry Wickham

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14

Dan Vaj - 2nd dog - 26/Mar/14 with James Machaffie

Bob - 2014

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 11/Oct/13

1st pitch only, required some beans
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - May/13 with Jim Duthie

khawk - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with DT

led p2. Both pitches felt of similar difficulty, the first was thrutchy and strenuous, the second technical goodness! Sustained all the way. ***
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Fingers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13

Lead p1
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with chris todd

simeclimb68 - AltLd rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Adam Booth

Awesome route, what a battle up the first crack!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Simon Palmer

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 20/Oct/12 with Gareth E

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Halla

wi11 - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/12 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Only 2nd pitch as 1st was wet so combined with Creahg Dhu 1st pitch
Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Ant, Ben

PAJames - 2012

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 2012 with Gareth E

AdrianP - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Olli

dan ely - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with tony (army)

kdalzell - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with Liam Fleming

short pumpy first pitch techy second pitch very good route
Liam FLeming - 19/Jun/11 with karen dalzell

A brilliant route. Another Tremadog classic that feels hard for the grade!
david morse - AltLd O/S - 09/May/11 with Glyn+Alex (Romania)

Came on to rain just as I got to the top of the 1st pitch. Foot slipped on a wet hold. Amazing route, both pitches are defiantly some of the best in the area
Glyn - Lead dog - 09/May/11 with Dave Morse

nige - AltLd - 03/Apr/11 with mark hounslea

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/11

Nails first pitch! Good fun seconding!
Tommy Cole - 2nd - 08/Mar/11 with Alex Mason

My favourite E2 in Wales. Two superb, contrasting pitches. The upper corner does everything you could ask of it.
Alex Mason - Lead dog - 08/Mar/11 with Tommy Cole

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Sandy Simpson - 11/Aug/10 with Ross Hewitt

barni - AltLd O/S - 16/May/10 with luke

Luke Brooks - AltLd - 16/May/10 with Barni

2nd pitch
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 13/May/10

Well protected 1st pitch but very awkward. A slight sting in the tail aswell. 2nd pitch much easier but techy.
mynyddresident - AltLd - 13/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/10

simonp - Lead O/S - May/10 with Annelies Sarrazyn

phil64 - Lead rpt - May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/10

soph - 01/Jan/10

mr mills - 2010 with paul simkiss

Hidden - 2010

simeclimb68 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd dog - 21/Aug/09

First pitch DR, Second pitch TW
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Paul Black, Dave Ripley

Hidden - AltLd dog - 20/Jun/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with chris

Hidden - Lead - 01/Mar/09

My first E2. I now know that i can't climb E2. Yet
cavemancolumbus - 2nd dog - Mar/09 with dan

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Sep/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

Matt Vigg - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Only climbed P1.
jake-jones - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with Juha

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/06

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

spidey - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/04

Superb. Pitch 1 is easy!
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2004 with Karen Ghiselli

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/03 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - Lead - 22/Feb/03

simon kimber - 2nd - 2002 with Tony Penning

Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 2002 with Dave A

shoulders - Lead - 23/Jul/01 with dai

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/00 with Hugh

WB - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/99 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/97

ian caton - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/95

lead 2nd pitch
michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 14/May/95 with brian jones

frost - AltLd - May/95 with J Turner

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

bullybones - 1995

NickJH - Aug/94

Hidden - AltLd - 03/May/93

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Great route
Hamish Leslie - AltLd O/S - 1993 with Ste Lawler

Derek Ryden - Lead - Jun/91 with Niel

Nick Biven - Lead - 03/May/91 with Ian Sherrington

nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/90 with Nick Sharpe

ChrisJD - Lead - 07/May/90

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

surfbish - Lead O/S - Mar/88

Neil R - AltLd - 25/Jul/87 with Richard W

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 23/Oct/85 with Bill Wilson

Hammy - AltLd - 13/Jun/85 with Colin Struthers

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1985 with Bill Williamson

rob.grafton - 2nd dnf - 1985 with Matthew Bransby

TonyF - Lead O/S - Aug/84 with Tony Cox

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 17/Jun/84 with Nick MacFarlane

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/84

Hidden - 1984

Hidden - 1984

steve L - Lead - 26/Jun/83 with Clive Curle, Alun Richardson

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/83

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Did pitch 1 and 2
uphillnow - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/82 with Dave Booth

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/82

Hidden - 1980

steve L - 1977

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/76 with John Roberts

petemeads - AltLd - 1976

Falko - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/75 with Al W.

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Sean Kelly - Sep/73 with Bob Millward

rockofades - AltLd - 1973 with MC

mikej - AltLd - 17/Apr/67 with Geoff Williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jimxxx, hutchay, Dave Deary, Owen W-G, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 92
hard E30 of 31
E30 of 31
easy E30 of 31
hard E219 of 31
E210 of 31
easy E21 of 31
hard E11 of 31
E10 of 31
easy E10 of 31
hard 6a0 of 31
6a0 of 31
easy 6a0 of 31
hard 5c9 of 31
5c18 of 31
easy 5c3 of 31
hard 5b1 of 31
5b0 of 31
easy 5b0 of 31
3 Stars27 of 30
2 Stars3 of 30
1 Star0 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat