Restricted Access
A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May. It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
An overlooked route that takes an impressive direct line up the crag. The top crux is particularly satisfying.
1) 5b, 26m. Climb the bold eliminate slab up a damp streak between Tensor and Tarantula to a shared belay.
2) 6a, 29m. Climb the corner to the roof. Power through this to reach a steep groove. Climb this and the arete more or less direct to the top with some wild moves. © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)
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Spare Rib
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))