Restricted Access
A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May. It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
A great pitch which keeps coming at you. Take a lot of cams. Start right of Mensor and either climb the wide crack up the pinnacle, or the bold slab to its right, to the top of the pinnacle. Move up and right and make wild moves across a roof to gain a groove on the right. Climb to the belay of Mensor. Step right around the prow to gain and climb a prominent sustained crack. A gripping final move out left of the crack gains easier ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Belay at the top of the first pitch was overgrown with a massive gorse bush so we didn't do top pitch, shame it looked good. Probably best to belay at the top of the first pitch of the vs next door and swing round the arete.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)
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The Snake
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))