Rockfax Description
The left-hand line. Move up and left to below the central groove. Ascend this until forced right onto the rib near the top of the groove and climb this to a ledge. Now climb the small wall to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Best gained by abseil. Good thread underneath the huge boulder at top

A J J Moulam,W R Craster, J F Mawe 20/Dec/1953

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Starred VS's at Craig y Gesail.

cfisher4 17/Oct Lead O/S
with Chris
Hoyes 12/Jul 2nd O/S
with Alex S
No? Yes! 09/Jul Lead
Hidden 07/Jun 2nd
The Ivanator 24/May Lead O/S

A really good pitch, sustained and physical, but fair at the grade.

with Rob
breed 15/Apr 2nd O/S
guy757 06/Apr -
jcw ??/2015 -
K Farrell 16/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Very nice, entertaining moves all the way up on clean rock. Worth 3*s.

Dave Warburton 16/Nov/14 2nd

Enjoyed everything about this. Did Bramble Buttress to get to the top.

Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
Andy Chubb 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Good route

with Nick Gregory
Gareth T 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Eulee
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
hazeysunshine 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S

cold fingers - felt hard...

with Ann B
Abi Chard 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Cathy W
edmitchell 30/Mar/14 TR rpt

Getting a bit vegetated. TR because none else wanted to do it :(

Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
tompilgrem 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with golly, Dad
bobpilgrem 18/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Easy ab in from in-situ gear to a good starting ledge.Good route.

with Tom
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
r.greaves 03/Aug/13 Lead
with jim daly, tony minette
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Simon Caldwell 05/May/13 2nd O/S

3 stars surely, brilliant climbing from start to finish. Was very glad we chose to ab in rather than brave the jungle at the bottom!

with Carmen
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
david morse 01/May/13 2nd O/S
with josh
MD 27/Apr/13 2nd
with Jo
Happy Wanderer 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Mike D
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
chrisallan 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
caradoc 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

The old guide talks about scrambling up to the start, I dread to think what that would have been like. A good pitch.

with john b
Jones_88 15/Jul/12 2nd
adam06 15/Jul/12 Lead
Cardi 05/May/12 Lead O/S

Good rock, gear, moves and exposure

with Dave H
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/12 TR O/S
Alessandro Tentori ?/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Paolo Fubini
BenRyle 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
myoung 04/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Sioned
rob.grafton ??/2012 AltLd
with andy bunnage
Different Steve 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 22/May/11 2nd O/S
r.greaves 12/May/11 2nd
with stu lade
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
emmarowe 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Phil Layton 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with simon
simeclimb68 26/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Mar/11 2nd O/S
edmitchell ??/2011 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
emmarowe ??/2011 2nd
Pete Nugent 24/Oct/10 Lead

Abbed in from top....best approach for many of the routes hereabouts. Nice climb

with Mandy T
kitkat78 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 09/Oct/10 2nd
with Kat
Hidden 02/Oct/10 AltLd
coffeepot 31/May/10 2nd

Ab'ed in and the rope got stuck! eeek.

with jelaby
jelaby 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Valuable lesson not to be forgotten: it's hard to pull a knot across grass. Had to lead on the remaining length of rope, with the ab rope stuck in the corner. Didn't seem to affect much, except I kept trying to clip the ab rope into my gear.

Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/10 Lead
krusty23 28/Mar/10 Lead

took a while at the crux mioving up and down lots in the corner!! Final moves after corner really nice and airy

with Chris H
Noodles 01/Mar/10 2nd


Jillybean 01/Mar/10 Lead

exciting and scary traditional climb!

with Martyn
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Noodles30 ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Glyn 23/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Some nice moves

davefount 23/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Glyn
Hidden 27/May/08 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
barni ??/2008 Lead
with Si
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
kev davies ??/1997 -
steve prior ?/Aug/95 Lead
with Roz C
Rob Davies ??/1995 2nd
Ched ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
RichardMc 15/Nov/91 Lead
with Pam Holt
Hidden 11/May/91 2nd
nigehughes ?/Sep/90 Lead
with Chris Hall
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd
DDDD ??/1985 -
RichardMc 29/Nov/80 AltLd rpt
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 12/Aug/78 2nd
Nigel Bond 08/Jul/78 AltLd
with Tony Cuddy
Brian Wilderspin ?/Jun/78 AltLd
with Chris Hindley
Hidden 19/Feb/78 Lead
Hidden 19/Feb/78 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/77 -
tapley 14/Apr/74 Lead
with Alison Tapley
granitbahn ??/1973 AltLd
Gordon Stainforth 07/Sep/72 2nd
with John Stainforth
mikej 25/May/70 AltLd
with Jerry Young
Hidden 09/Apr/67 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1966 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Gareth_Thomas
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 5a
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High 4c
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High 4b
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Style of ascent
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