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Hatter's Groove*** HVS 5a

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[Jim Croft on Hatter's Groove, Brimham Rocks HVS 5a, 2 kb]12m. A classic test-piece with a maddening move on it. Bridge the green groove awkwardly to the capstone where a good thread protects the taxing exit round the left edge of the boulder. © ROCKFAX
Climbs the often green V corner to the roof with good gear. Step left and arrange a good thread runner to protect the crux exit.
FA Allan Austin. FFA Joe Smith, Joe Brown and Dennis Gray. Apr/1958

Ticklists: Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics.

Photo: Jim Croft on Hatter's Groove, Brimham Rocks HVS 5a © Crofty
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 121 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Top climbing! Well protected an interesting all the way, especially at the top!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Jake, Henry, Matt

Climbster - 2nd β - 15/Mar/14 with Ian, Luke and Vick

FragOcon - Lead - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/13

Quite strenuous, good route.
petegunn - Lead - 30/Jun/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

kirky_p - 2nd - 06/May/13

mark sadler - Lead - 2013 with rob

David Bulley - 2nd O/S - 05/May/12 with Nathan Gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Shoulder collapsed due to awkward nature of route so fell off:(
a13x - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/11 with Paul S

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Max Harms, Hannah Hunt

Higher Primate - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Ian Sutcliffe

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Drew

Hidden - 02/Jul/11

Hanski - 2nd - Jul/11 with Simon Kimber

ewan i - 2nd - 02/Jun/11

while it was still pretty wet, good fun all the same
Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Ewan Irvine

landskip - 2nd - 22/May/11 with rob weston

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 04/May/11

Toproped years ago.
Jack00 - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/11 with Si Bulmer

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Bryn Wood

Surprisingly good compared to what it looked like! Probably the most inelegant exit ever performed. On any route. Anywhere!
James Moyle - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/11 with Ben

OK, found a more elegant if a bit insecure way of finishing it this time, with a rounded layback...
jonny taylor - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with James B

Quality climb. Laced full of gear, had a bit of a struggle threading the capstone then almost fell off on the top out. Good times!
barney800 - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Jonny Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/10

petebale2000 - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/10 with Daniel Virgin

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/10 with Jim

Excellent climb, move to exit isn't too bad.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Graeme

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/10

Climbed first half but miserably flailed up the rest squirming and panting with multiple falls much to Pete's delight
gazbonutter - 2nd dog - 30/Jul/10 with Pete MacDonald

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Pete

Surprisingly awkward to exit
jkarran - Lead - 05/Jul/10 with Pete

petellis - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/10 with Cleric James Koran

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/10

lithos - 2nd - 24/Jun/10

faffed considerably trying to get a sling round the thread, getting quite pumped, only to find the actual move straightforward. So for me the crux was the gear faff!
pebbles - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10 with rob

riven - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Matt Robinson

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - Jun/10

Andy Graham - Lead O/S - 2010 with Steve Anderson

With Lucy
David_Gledson - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09

Great puzzle of a route, but I took the wrong line at the top, got pumped out and had to rest on the sling. Gritstone topouts are not my forte, but is it actually possible to top out this route elegantly?
jonny taylor - Lead - 21/Jul/09

cat22 - 2nd - 20/Jul/09 with Jonny

jonka - Lead - Jul/09 with sean

duzinga - Lead - 21/Jun/09 with Jie

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 02/May/09 with Graeme

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with adam

Seymore Butt - 2009

padski - 2009

What a great route!!If it's dry do it!!Great gear all the way and the top out is much easier than it looks!!
mikekeswick - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08 with andy

IanJackson - Lead - 27/Jun/08 with Peter

Dan 85 - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/08 with Phil

porridgefan - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08 with Dan

davebold2008 - 2nd - May/08 with Pete Davies

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/08

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 06/Apr/08 with Jonny

Finished in a blizzard
betamonkey - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/08 with Jonny Baker, Adam Burt

Hidden - Lead - Sep/07

mje1398 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/07 with John M

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/07

Andy Chubb - 2nd - 16/Aug/07 with Robin Nicholson

Adam1973 - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/07 with Joe Noake

Joe Noake - 2nd dog - 23/Jun/07 with Adam Newton

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 20/May/07 with robeverybody

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/07 with Joe

stevo smith - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/07 with Paul Alexander, Chris Britton

Jack00 - TR O/S - 2007

fifth - 2007

Brown - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/06 with Beth

Mattyk - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/06 with Jamie Moss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/06

Very physical - pumped out
Colin Matheson - 2nd - 01/Jul/06 with Dave Gugan

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Jun/06

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 03/May/06 with S. Mead

King Rat - Lead - 2006 with A

jim robertson - 2006

tomhull - 2006

SteveM - 2nd - 2006 with Chris

great route, cleaner than it looks with a safe struggle at top!
lithos - Lead O/S - Jun/05

Monk - Lead O/S - May/04

John Kettle - Lead - 2004

Stone Muppet - 2003

Scottish78 - Lead - 16/Aug/02 with Fiona G

five - Lead O/S - Aug/02 with JT, PW

Hidden - 2002

smudge - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/00 with Pete Ramshaw

Shaw Brown - Lead - 26/Jul/00 with cliff brown

Whealiebob - 2000 with Robin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/99

jfmchivall - 1998

tlr - Lead - 03/Aug/96 with Kim and Pete D

leathers - Lead O/S - 1996 with Simon Vallance

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/95

Tom V - 30/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/94

gareth_hull - Lead O/S - Jul/94 with Richard Forrester

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/92

Okecroak - Lead - 25/Jul/92 with N Smith

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - Lead O/S - 1992 with Paul

malc - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/91

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 29/Sep/90 with David

Hidden - Lead - 26/Sep/90

craig h - Lead O/S - Sep/90 with Luke Steer

Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/89 with John Byrne

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/89

Hidden - 2nd - 1982

GeoffG - Lead - 05/Nov/77

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/76 with Don Hammond

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/75

mikej - 2nd - 28/Aug/73 with John Bickerdyke

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 10/Jun/73 with Bob Knapton

mikej - Lead - 07/Jun/73 with Stewart Grant

Hidden - Lead - 1971

Dave Musgrove - 10/Apr/68

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matt250, Hidden, Hidden, mattwilk, Steve Waters, Mynydd, pc1983, Sam Marks, mfisher, Hidden, ritid, KeithAlexander, robman, alexyoung, Batt, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Warren Earle, betamonkey

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard E10 of 22
E10 of 22
easy E11 of 22
hard HVS0 of 22
HVS6 of 22
easy HVS8 of 22
hard VS7 of 22
VS0 of 22
easy VS0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 23
5b0 of 23
easy 5b1 of 23
hard 5a2 of 23
5a20 of 23
easy 5a0 of 23
hard 4c0 of 23
4c0 of 23
easy 4c0 of 23
3 Stars15 of 20
2 Stars5 of 20
1 Star0 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead73 of 121 (60.3%)
Followed35 of 121 (28.9%)
Toproped1 of 121 (0.8%)
Unknown12 of 121 (9.9%)

'Climbed'56 of 121 (46.3%)
clean O/S53 of 121 (43.8%)
clean β1 of 121 (0.8%)
clean rpt7 of 121 (5.8%)
dogged3 of 121 (2.5%)
dnf1 of 121 (0.8%)