North Yorkshire > Brimham Rocks >
 
The Black Chipper*** E2 5b

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[John Hunt on The Black Chipper E2 5b, Brimham Rocks., 2 kb]12m. After a tough start (5c?) follow pockets and slopers up to the break where a small thread (possibly also chipped?) and small cams protect the awkward (chipped) finish. Avoiding using the chipped hold, lest you be struck down, is nearer 5c. © ROCKFAX
Start just right of holly tree. Use pockets and a useful pebble to a welcome ledge. First protection can be found, then move up easily to a small break (micro cam useful), then make steeper pleasant moves up to a small thread. All that remains is the awkward top out this can be done without the chip at 5c, 5b with.
Tony Barley, Chas Hird. Aug/1966

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven.

Photo: John Hunt on The Black Chipper E2 5b, Brimham Rocks. © Paul Clarke
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 160 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

PeteH - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/13 with Naomi Hart

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/13 with Peter Hart

Good climbing, gear not very confidence inspiring!
James Oakes - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Brad Cowley

braders94 - 2nd RP - 06/Apr/13 with James Oakes

Jack00 - Solo rpt - 03/Apr/13 with Edd Carrigan

Wizzy - Lead β - 2013

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/12 with Tom Adams, Euan McKendrick

Sam Marks - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Matthew Ferrier

Was expecting it to be much more sustained than it is and found the chipped hold pretty easily. Still the moves are great and once past the start feel pretty slabby.
Matthew Ferrier - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Sam Marks

Excellent, a long reach to the top from the thread. Chipped hold must be a red herring as i couldn't find it either. Quality mantel to finish. : )
petegunn - Lead - 05/Oct/12 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Oct/12

Tricky and spooky. The gear is not that inspiring. Great moves. Did n't find the chip, the top out mantel felt hard.
Ian Broome - Lead β - 29/Sep/12 with petellis

Belay was way left. Couldn't be arsed with the stress of the top-out like this on a multiple repeat.
petellis - 2nd dnf - 29/Sep/12 with Broomy

Good climbing. Unfortunately the cam slots are getting very worn. Couldn't find (didn't look for!) the chipped hold.
GPN - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Annette

petekeron - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Steve Brock

a13x - Lead rpt - 20/May/12 with Luke Cullum, Ben Bowry, Ky Aizawa, Michael Mason

stonemonkey159 - Lead O/S - 20/May/12

Hard boulder problem start but not too difficult after that. Although the gear is sparse!
lcullum7 - 2nd RP - 20/May/12 with Alex Peace

Awesome route. Had to work the bouldery start once.. One to come back and lead!!
kyaizawa - 2nd RP - 20/May/12 with Alex Peace

dancey1981 - Lead RP - 13/Feb/12

Ed carrigan - Lead - 06/Jan/12

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Rosh

Spent forever on the central moves before stripping out and traversing off. Still there for the onsight.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dnf - 30/Oct/11 with Psycoates

Petarghh - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

a13x - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Jessie Harris, James Stokes

andysroom - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Ali

robman - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Jul/11

I did direct finish on top rope
theotherpetehill - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Andy Harper

dave cruised the lead
pebbles - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with dave shield

JulesV - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Shauna Cunningham

John Brayshaw - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Laura Justice, Daniel Justice

lovely climb in 3 parts. Boulder problem start, thoughtful middle and a lovely move to get the top. Really enjoyed this!
coombsy - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with John B

exciting stuff, excellent boulder problem start and an interesting top out - covered in birdshit and lichen - turned out I was a bit too far left. oops
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Claire

llamaglama - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11 with Jam

Mighty Max - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11

Diggler - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with andyob, Calder

Steff007 - 2nd dog - 2011 with Rob

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

rosh3000 - 2nd - 2011

topping out was an awesome feeling! first E2 onsight
robertmctague - Lead O/S - 2011

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/10

Great pitch with good moves all the way but felt a bit spooky. Didn't find/use no chip.
Belier - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/10 with dad

Top roped it clean twice first, some very nice moves on it, found the chipped hold, it makes the top out an easy mantleshelf, at least that's what I thought!
MikeLeeds - Lead RP - 19/Sep/10 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - TR O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Mike Nuttall

The chip is very easy to find naturally at the top if you go in the correct direction. Although unlike mike, i found using it to top out very awkward first time, still indispensible though, would not fancy palming over on a mantleshelf!
clive-greenwood - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/10 with Mike Nuttall

ACE
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Jim

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Graeme Hammond

Climbs really nicely when repeated. Still can't find the chip.
petellis - 2nd rpt - 11/Sep/10 with Cleric James Koran

Loads of really good climbing, spoiled only slightly by the ledge. No idea where the chipped hold is if it's supposed to be on top, there's a few candidates on-route though.
jkarran - Lead - 11/Sep/10 with Pete

Lead on Pete's gear after he lead it, just a convenience thing as we both wanted to lead it. Brilliant little route, didn't see any sign of a chip at the top though so I guess I did the 5c way?!
AlistairB - Lead β - 25/Aug/10 with Pete Ellis

Couldn't see the chip...
petellis - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/10 with Alistair

superb route... awfull top out.
pastep - TR - 08/Aug/10

PaulHermes - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Paul VCCC

Hidden - 11/Jul/10

Hard start, and harrowing heel-hook topout. Tough middle section, too. And bold.
Kirk - TR dog - 02/Jul/10 with Ian A

Best route I've done at Brimham. Top out was interesting. Didn't realise that was where the chipped hold was so involved a desperate pebble pulling beached whale horror show. Great climbing start to finish.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Sandra

fantastic route,the gear is ok,just have a go its safe!
Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with mick

simon kimber - 2nd - 17/May/10 with Fabrizio Della Rossa

cobweb - Lead O/S - 14/May/10 with martyn hopson

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Apr/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with AJ

hailtryfan - 2nd O/S - Apr/10 with Mikey P

james.peter - 2nd - 08/Mar/10 with Nick Valente

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/10

dancey1981 - 2nd - Mar/10

Great day out with Johnny and Pete who turned up later. Good effort by jonny on desperation crack.
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Johnny Richard

Knackered and not warmed up after work. Couldn't work out the moves at the top and had to dry-hump the top-out.
petellis - 2nd dog - 30/Jan/10 with Jonothan Richard, mattyork2

RossG - 2010

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/09 with C. Prescott

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09

peteJ23 - TR RP - 16/Aug/09 with Shunt

Christian Beck - Lead O/S - Jul/09

daves lead
pebbles - 2nd rpt - 12/Jun/09 with dave alastair james

jadm2 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Dave

miastacey - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Bob Smith

james.peter - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/09 with Adam Rawlings

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/09

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Calum

CalumC - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Andy Moles

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - TR O/S - 29/Nov/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Nov/08

betamonkey - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/08 with Marcin Ostasz

clean but i had already done the start before as a boulder problem.
Russell Lovett - TR O/S - 24/Aug/08 with andrew haigh

IanJackson - Lead - 27/Jun/08 with Peter

Hidden - TR - 13/Jun/08

betamonkey - Lead β - 20/May/08 with Jonny Baker

pebbles - 2nd - 10/May/08 with dave shield

had led ages ago
rob askew - Solo - May/08

Such an amazing route!
Jack00 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/08 with Shaun L

Nice climb. Didn't quite have the right size cam for the slot in the middle but made do with collection of reasonable gear.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/08 with Jack

Hidden - TR - 14/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07

Classic little route, bit run out at the bottom and a cool exit move but enough gear to keep most happy.
Chad123 - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Rik

mje1398 - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/07 with Matt K

Having seconded ali on this a while back it went much easier than i remembered. Gear not bad at all (for my info only: a 'pink' went in well)
Mattyk - Lead β - 28/Aug/07 with Matt Evans & John Marsham

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06

Date an approx guess
Boy - Solo - 15/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Regretably seconded early in career. Led clean a year later. Excellent climb which is ruined by beta, so I won`t give any
Cragrat Rich - Lead - May/04

Hidden - Lead - May/04

Daniel Armitage - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/04

Brown - Lead - 04/Apr/04

Joe Noake - 2nd RP - 2004 with David Noake

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Oct/03

cem - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/03 with Liam Mark

ian caton - Lead O/S - 2003 with Abi

chrishedgehog - Lead β - 28/Nov/01 with John Lilly

malc - 2nd - 07/Oct/01 with CL

Paul Figg - Lead - 07/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

mugglewump - Lead - 2000 with Bob A

innes - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/98 with CJ

sadams - Lead - 20/Sep/97 with Team Midlands

nai - Lead - 17/Aug/97 with Cal

andrew300169 - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/97 with Pom

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/96

tlr - Lead - 19/Nov/95 with Chris Harvey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/95

Tom V - 2nd - 30/Apr/95 with John Ganley

Rich Kirby - Lead - Apr/95

rob.grafton - 2nd - 10/Aug/93 with Bruce

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/93

rob.grafton - Lead - 11/May/93 with Bruce

shark - Solo O/S - Mar/93 with Andy Perkins

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/93

Hidden - TR - Nov/92

alkira - 13/Jul/92 with Mike Lates

Dave Musgrove - 20/Apr/92 with Rupert Wyard, Pete Finklaire, Andy Wild

WB - 1992

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/91 with JT

Forget about gear - you might as well solo this - good value. Having a 'feeling bold' day helps but it's not E2 - E1 5b is on the button.
allan white - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/91 with rod anderson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/91

craig h - 2nd - 07/Jul/91

whispering nic - 06/May/91 with noj

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1991 with luke steer, elliot blaylock

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 01/Dec/90 with Simon Baker, Alec Burns, Steve Webster

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 29/Apr/90 with David, Jim Worthington

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 29/Apr/90 with Dad

Pete Pozman - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/90 with John Byrne

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

Nick Rundall - 2nd - 1990 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1988

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 1988

Onsight at the end of a day. Did not have a sling for the top thread so used a wire which rendered it useless lol! Made topping out very spicy :) superb little route
pebblespanker - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/86 with Mark Powell

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Apr/82

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/80 with Dave Oddy

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 19/Sep/76 with Mike Butler

Hidden - Lead - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
climberchristy, Nathaniel Gjöderum-Larsson, hobblingfool, Dervey, jonnybull, Owen W-G, mfisher, Sam Marks, Leif Andrews, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mikekeswick, Mike H

Voting
Total votes cast 87
hard E30 of 29
E30 of 29
easy E31 of 29
hard E20 of 29
E224 of 29
easy E21 of 29
hard E13 of 29
E10 of 29
easy E10 of 29
hard 5c0 of 29
5c0 of 29
easy 5c14 of 29
hard 5b3 of 29
5b12 of 29
easy 5b0 of 29
hard 5a0 of 29
5a0 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
3 Stars25 of 29
2 Stars3 of 29
1 Star1 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 160 (3.1%)
Lead90 of 160 (56.2%)
Followed45 of 160 (28.1%)
Toproped9 of 160 (5.6%)
Alt Leads1 of 160 (0.6%)
Unknown10 of 160 (6.2%)

'Climbed'53 of 160 (33.1%)
clean O/S74 of 160 (46.2%)
clean β7 of 160 (4.4%)
clean rpt9 of 160 (5.6%)
clean RP8 of 160 (5.0%)
dogged7 of 160 (4.4%)
dnf2 of 160 (1.2%)