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Enigma** E1 5b

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Enigma Variation >>
[Ian climbing Enigma at Lover's Leap (E1,5b), 2 kb]12m. Climb to the roof and pass it on the right before moving carefully back left to a ledge. Balance up the final groove to safety. The ledge can be reached direct by a layback and a bit of a stretch. © ROCKFAX
Left of Birch Tree Wall is a prominent overhanging roof half way up the face. Climb to this and pass it by going right. Then step back left and up into a groove which feels bold and insecure.
K Wood, M. Biden, M Mortimer. 16/Oct/1971

Photo: Ian climbing Enigma at Lover's Leap (E1,5b) © Sam Judson
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 78 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Mar/14

Great route, move through rook using sidepull wasn't as hard as expected once I'd got high enough on the hold, and given the slightly green conditions, the top groove was spicy!!
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Bex Waring

MFB - 2nd - 10/Sep/13 with MB

Excellent route of two halves. Brilliant pull through the overhang (make sure you get your right hand in the side pull!) and delicate smearing in the top groove. Lovely.
ebf - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Woody

backed off the lead - just couldnt seem to reach the sidepull. managed to get it once but not high enough, then couldnt get it again. watched how dave did it, but he could just about reach from the ledge. eventualy thrutched the move on second after a protracted struggle but it was nowhere near in control. gear above is there but very small.
pebbles - 2nd - 27/Jul/13 with dave shield

theomoore - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/13

A nice route. Easy for 5b but fairly run out at top.
climberchristy - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Ben Cole

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/13 with Naomi Hart

cobweb - Lead - 25/May/13 with Roger Waterworth

Tad run out but thats what makes it brilliant!
Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 15/May/13 with S.O.C, Harry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Desperate moves to get established on the slab (I think reach may be an issue getting the pocket) and then hard moves on dirty scrittly holds to get up the top groove.
climbingpixie - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Andy

Thinker01 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/12 with Ralph Wilkinson

RFWilkie - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/12 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12

First lead of the year
Diggler - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with jeffb

jeffb - 2nd - 31/Mar/12 with diggler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

a13x - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Jessie Harris, James Stokes

good lead by dave, gear is a bit sparse and mostly below you on hardest moves
pebbles - 2nd - 29/Aug/11 with dave shield

andysroom - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Ali

initially thought there was no gear on the face, but its protectable (just) with micro cams and nuts. final groove is unprotected, but you would probably just plop onto the ledge
pebbles - TR - 27/Jul/11 with dave shield

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with Alec

APRS - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/11 with Ewan Russell

Bottled the top groove, probably would have been ok but 'probably' is a big word with poor gear!
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 11/May/11 with Ray Sharples

mfisher - 2nd O/S - 05/May/11 with Olly Roberts

ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 05/May/11 with Matty

Rest at crux.
Palindrome - 2nd - May/11

petellis - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/10 with Cleric James Koran

A rare E1 gift from Brimham
jkarran - Lead - 06/Oct/10 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 11/Jul/10

cobweb - Lead O/S - 14/May/10 with martyn hopson

Tamati - 2nd O/S - Apr/10

RossG - 2010

BorisVBlade - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/09 with Leon, Neil Dowse

Jack00 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/09 with Will Ward

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 07/Dec/08 with jonka

cem - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Rob Truckle

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 15/Jun/08 with Dominic Skerratt

IanJackson - 2nd - 29/May/08 with Robeverybody

Adam1973 - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/08 with Rob Nelson

betamonkey - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/08 with Jonny Baker, Adam Burt

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 17/Aug/07 with IanJackson

IanJackson - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/07 with Adam

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/07 with stewart murray

furry - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/07 with LMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/07

reapey - 2nd - 12/Oct/06 with phil

Russell Lovett - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with tony lickes

Wobbly finish.
Zoomer - 2nd - 21/Sep/06 with Paul Chiddle

Karl Bromelow - Lead O/S - 2006

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2006 with reapey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/05

stuart100 - Lead rpt - Apr/05 with Claire Graham

The top scoop was definitely an enigma for James and me. Anni was 3rd man up and had no problems at all.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 2005 with James Rowe

Stone Muppet - 2005

Standard climbing club evening fare. Pathetically undeserving E1 tick was my opinion
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Brown - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/96

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/95

nickdonohue - 2nd - 10/May/95 with Dave Chapman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/92

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 29/Apr/90 with Jim Worthington

Pete Pozman - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/90 with John Byrne

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/89 with John Byrne

Hammy - 2nd - 20/Apr/89 with Colin Struthers

Dave Musgrove - 20/May/84

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/84

Nic Robinson - Solo O/S - 01/Aug/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Graham Booth, Hidden, Sam Marks, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard E13 of 16
E16 of 16
easy E14 of 16
hard HVS3 of 16
HVS0 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c1 of 16
hard 5b0 of 16
5b11 of 16
easy 5b1 of 16
hard 5a3 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars2 of 15
2 Stars8 of 15
1 Star3 of 15
0 Stars2 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 78 (1.3%)
Lead41 of 78 (52.6%)
Followed31 of 78 (39.7%)
Toproped1 of 78 (1.3%)
Unknown4 of 78 (5.1%)

'Climbed'21 of 78 (26.9%)
clean O/S50 of 78 (64.1%)
clean rpt6 of 78 (7.7%)
dnf1 of 78 (1.3%)