Rockfax Description
12m. Facing the southern entrance to the cleft is a fine climb up the thin crack and through the bulges above. Easier than it looks, apart from the start. It is often green. © Rockfax

A. Austin, B. Evans. 24/Apr/1958

Ticklists: Allan Austin Classics.

dakidunn 13/Sep 2nd dnf
Topsy Turvy 13/Sep Lead O/S
Sciguy 13/Sep 2nd dog

challenging, way above my zone if I was leading.

with tris, Mark
nick ferro 05/Sep 2nd rpt
with Oli Birkill
CharRowley 17/Aug Lead
markfairbank 12/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun Lead dog
Alpenglow 24/Jun Lead O/S

Useful undercling makes this pumpy route a lot easier!

with Oliver G, Ruairidh
SteveJCox 10/Jun Lead O/S
SteveM 10/May 2nd
with Dave Clarke
Joshcastril 02/May Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Feb 2nd dnf
Tom_Shill 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
SPD224 02/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Martin Smith
jeddb 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
nick ferro 09/Aug/14 Lead

1 rest - good fun though.

Olli-C 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

What a brilliant route.

with Chris Waddle
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Jono_LS16 03/May/14 Lead O/S
ebf 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Whoop de whoop, what a route! Epic "out there" moves so uncommon on a small gritstone route. I loved it to bits, but it's more like HVS/5a as even with the perfect finger locks in the crack to pull over the bulge and the lovely bridging, the gear isn't easy to place and it's quite run out above the bulge. Approach with caution and you'll enjoy it. Probably.

jimorothy 10/Nov/13 2nd

Think there is something in Chimney specialists suiting it.The sun entered the cleft then left during leader's ordeal. Felt HVS to me, even getting the sequence perfect with big chimneying/bridging moves. should be 3* though. Simultaneous opposed abseil descent was novel!

with Scott Barnett
FragOcon 30/Oct/13 Lead
RUDIN.J.D.H 13/Oct/13 Lead dog

Hadn't climbed outside for a while conditions were wet and mingy on top out but crack and roof dry. Fell quite a few times sorting out top sequence after boxing myself out. Good route.

Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd dog
Calum Wadsworth 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S


with Harrogate club
petellis 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
jkarran 07/Jul/13 -

Brain in neutral, feet not following body I nearly fell out of this.

with Pete
mark sadler ??/2013 Lead
with rob
RyMole 03/Nov/12 Lead dog
GAshby ?/Nov/12 -
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Solo
stewart100 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Just as hard as 2 or 3 years ago! Quite glad I didn't have to lead it again. Cracking route though

with Keith Lauder
petegunn 07/Oct/12 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 07/Oct/12 2nd O/S
luke321 14/Sep/12 Lead
Matt Cooke 14/Sep/12 2nd β
with Luke Dyer
samthom 16/Jul/12 2nd


with Fergus
Paul Figg 20/Jun/12 Lead
Paul Figg 20/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead dog
Charlie Zephyr Booth 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with michael kirby
CurlyStevo ?/Jun/12 Lead

Good route, old birds nest could do with removing (it's disentegrating). Definately not harder than 5a (if you find the perfect finger locks to pull over the bulge) but a fair bit of it on the route and placing gear in a very strenuous position make this low in the grade HVS IMO.

with Kevin
Hidden 02/Oct/11 -
Nickster 29/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Connorsgrandad 13/Jul/11 2nd dog

Looks easier than it is, got stuck again and pumped. Couldn't get over bulge had to use gear to get up. So annoyed.

with Tim, William Jackson
Ewan Russell 06/Jun/11 Solo O/S

really good

with Myself!
Tom_Jermy 19/May/11 Lead dog

Great climb, surely one of the best VS's yorkshire has to offer. After getting to the crux, then downclimbing due to being pumped, nailed the start second time round had a fall through the crux, didn't wait around through, straight back on and made the move second time.

Michael Whitley 13/May/11 Lead dog

First Lead fall!! Made the Heart go a little. Wet!!

with Lee Simpson
Peter Smith 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Mick Leather
jonny taylor 02/Apr/11 2nd

A very spectacular and athletic route!

with James B
barney800 02/Apr/11 Lead dog

Rested on gear after some fun and games with the crux, then found the way. Definitely only VS once you know how.

Tom Keaveny 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with mfisher
Tom Tindale ??/2011 -
petellis 06/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Great route. Distinctly "Yorkshire" VS.

jkarran 06/Oct/10 2nd

Bit of a beast! At least the fingerlocks are perfect.

with Pete
MikeLeeds 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Tough! Missed the hold under the top crack.

clive-greenwood 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
knicos 04/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/10 2nd
gazbonutter 30/Jul/10 Lead dog

fell twice and rested then carried on - very enjoyable all the same!

ollyroberts 06/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Jack00 06/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Olly
ojp 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf

fell twice at the Overhang. Found the key to route on the 2nd

with Dave
ojp 12/Jun/10 2nd
with Dave
Dave Foster 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Had to take over from Si on the lead. Very tough, even for a Yorkshire VS.

with Si
pebbles 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with kirk
Jack00 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Cool route. Then a simultaneous abseil off to top!

with Hannah
pebbles 14/Apr/10 Lead dog

buggered up the crux and rested on the gear. then saw the big jug....

PaulTanton 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Must have been cold

with John Hardiman
NorthernRock 01/Mar/10 2nd

Failed on the leads, tried to step out left, as the roof did not look like 5a! Completed on second, still thought the pull over was more than VS5a!

Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Andy Graham ??/2010 -
John Pickles 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andrew Morton
Daniel Sutherland 19/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Mal
lithos 09/Jun/09 Lead

fun and steep ! Moved left into the large crack after the thin crack as straight up is very licheny and harder (poor holds/gear) and seems out of character, not sure if that's where it goes ! Geting down is 'interesting'

with Clare Usher
jonka ?/Jun/09 Lead
with sean
Adam1973 02/May/09 2nd rpt
with Graeme
Graeme Hammond 02/May/09 Lead β

first couple of bits of gear in place below the crux crack

with adam
alexyoung 19/Apr/09 Lead dnf
victim of mathematics 22/Feb/09 2nd O/S

Really rather hard.

with Adam
Hidden 11/Sep/08 TR O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/08 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Simon Caldwell 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Carmen
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
stewart100 20/Jun/08 Lead
SteveM 12/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Bruce
Hidden 17/Nov/07 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/07 2nd
jonka ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with degs
steve prior ?/May/07 Lead
with LCMC
gonzo_ls9 ??/2007 Lead O/S
with d
Hidden ?/Nov/06 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Oct/06 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/06 Solo O/S
joe_alexander 08/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Stu
tomhull ??/2006 -
chrishedgehog 09/Jun/05 Lead
with Karl
cem 26/Oct/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/03 TR
Rob Davies 28/Mar/03 Lead dog


with Angus McLean
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Shaw Brown 30/Sep/02 Lead
with David Jones
Dave Douglas ??/2002 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 04/Nov/01 Lead O/S
Whealiebob ??/2000 -
with Robin
craig h ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Roget 28/Oct/99 Solo O/S
Tenko 08/Sep/99 2nd O/S
with Andy Ilston
Hidden 28/Jan/98 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 02/Aug/95 Lead dog
nickdonohue 27/Jun/95 2nd
with Dave Chapman
Tom V 30/Apr/95 -
Mick King 29/Jul/93 2nd
with Simon Walsh
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
malc 25/Aug/91 Lead
kato'sdad 11/Aug/91 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
Pete Pozman ??/1990 -
Hammy 20/Apr/89 Lead
with Colin Struthers
RichardMc 03/Jun/78 Lead O/S
with Keith Peel
Hidden 31/Dec/76 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/74 2nd O/S
mikej 18/Mar/73 Lead
with Mike Mason
Dave Musgrove 20/Feb/72 Lead
Hidden ??/1971 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lenny, Joshcastril, Hidden, alexyoung
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 31
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set