Rockfax Description
12m. The kinked crack is an ancient and awkward classic. Traditionally graded VS, it's nearer HS with a suitably large cam. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Possibly Brimham's oldest VS and an often green one at that. The north facing crack that doglegs right at two thirds height. If you take a BIG cam, probably only hard severe.

Sidney Thompson (pre 1937)

Hidden 09/May 2nd
ebf 08/May Lead O/S

A #4 friend fits (just) right at the back of the bottom of the top crack (if you haven't used it in the first crack, lol). However, definitely VS as the fall would be unpleasant. Worth the stars!

Bishop 02/May Lead O/S
with Mike
Calum Wadsworth 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Another lovely brimham route. Laaaarge cam useful.

freemanTom 12/Aug/15 2nd
with Callum
spragglerocks 08/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Tom
SamT1 24/May/15 2nd β
SuperLee1985 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Good Route. Ended up doung an ungraceful belly flop onto the penultimate ledge and then the final off-width took a bit of thinking/psyching myself up for. I managed to retrive my size 6 Dragon from the top of the lower crack and place it low in the offwidth which gave me a bit more confidence.

Hidden 02/May/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Al_Matheson 14/Sep/14 2nd RP
with Ginge
Paulo H 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Good test for a variety of jamming techniques

Alex Thompson 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Matt's lead. Grim final chimney, stripped off gear and chalk bag to ascend...

with Mr SCarey, Matt Marsh
BenedictIEP 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S


Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd β
Matt Marsh 21/Apr/14 Lead
with Sam Carey, Alex Thompson
thetradlad 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
IanHope 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

bottled the top body jam move. Ended up traversing right.

katyhope 10/Aug/13 2nd β
with IanHope
katyhope 10/Aug/13 Lead dnf
with IanHope
petellis 07/Jul/13 2nd rpt
jkarran 07/Jul/13 Lead

Worrying at the top, awkward rather than insecure but with horrible tumble potential

with Pete
pizza 23/Apr/13 2nd
with tom
robertmctague ??/2013 Lead

had seconded before.

petegunn 15/Nov/12 Lead

First placement using my new monster cam, Giggling crack next!

with Davina
Hidden 15/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/12 2nd
Matt Cooke 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Luke Dyer
rockman 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Probably VS and makes you work for it.

timcedwards 22/Jul/12 2nd
Paul Figg 20/Jun/12 Solo
Paul Figg 20/Jun/12 Solo
DanT 18/May/12 2nd O/S
with James Moore
jon59 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jimmy1976 22/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Oldschool hardcore body jamming at the top

with Simon
Simonj 22/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with jim
David_Gledson 16/Jun/11 2nd
timmsy 16/Jun/11 Lead
Ewan Russell 06/Jun/11 Solo O/S
with Myself!
Ed carrigan 10/May/11 -
Palindrome ?/May/11 2nd
Whitty2012 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
whity4420 17/Oct/10 2nd
MikeLeeds 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
clive-greenwood 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
pr1984 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Mar/10 2nd
al99 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
martinazando 09/Aug/09 Lead β
martinazando 09/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
alexyoung 19/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Col Kingshott ??/2009 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
wheres_my_harness 26/Dec/08 2nd
popebenedictus 26/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Batt 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
pippa_g 02/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Tom Foote
Hidden 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S
JonathanJones 21/Jul/08 2nd
with Jimmy56
johniebriggs ?/Jul/08 Lead
petellis 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S

this is proper old skool hard, hard as nails, and thats bloody hard. Took half an hour of swearing and bellowing whilst I fought my way up the crak at the top... was I doing it wrong?

Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Adam1973 09/Aug/07 2nd rpt
stewart murray 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Adam1973 16/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with philnorv
Simon Caldwell 01/May/07 Lead O/S

Easier than expected. Probably only HS 4b with big gear.

with Carmen
victim of mathematics 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jaime
Brown 13/Nov/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/06 Solo O/S
jimstanton ?/Jun/06 Lead
ramsay8202.freeserve.co.uk 01/May/06 TR

1st successful hand jam technique

Hidden ?/Oct/04 -
Hidden ?/May/04 Solo O/S
craig h ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Tenko 08/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Andy Ilston
uphillnow ??/1998 Solo
gareth_hull ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Richard Forrester
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
kato'sdad 11/Aug/91 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
Hidden 07/Jul/91 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 29/Apr/90 Solo
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Apr/90 2nd
with Jim Worthington
Jon Read ??/1990 Solo
lithos ??/1988 Lead O/S
with all sorts
Moses 28/Oct/87 Solo
Pete Pozman 18/Jun/86 2nd O/S


with John Byrne
Hidden ??/1980 2nd
RichardMc 03/Jun/78 Lead O/S
with Keith Peel
Hidden 19/Jun/76 Lead
Rob Davies 17/Nov/74 Lead

Big boots, no gear - I think I asked Father Christmas for EBs after this

with Paul Welford (ICMC)
mikej 18/Mar/73 Solo
with Mike Mason
mikej 16/Aug/72 Lead
with E
Steve Clegg 17/Jul/72 Lead
with Chris H
mikej 05/May/71 Solo
greenbuoy 27/May/70 Solo
Dave Musgrove 06/Oct/68 -
Dave Musgrove ?/Jun/67 Lead
with Bob Knapton
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, TomatoPro, stev1e.wilso, Hidden, Will Smith, topsafari
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 17
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set