14m. The slanting widening fissure is a classic of its genre. The lower section is steady enough until things turn pear-shaped, then abandon all technique and swim for your life. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
THE LINE on Castle Rock.Follow the slightly offset crackline left of Jabberwok to an elephantine finish. Not a t-shirt and shorts climb. A rh variant start is about 5c taking the vague groove running out of the bottom of the upper crack by climbing up and slightly left.
Poss E.Y.M.C. Pre 1957.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|tim newton||10/Oct||2nd O/S|
|Rachel Slater||10/Oct||Lead O/S||
Must have got better at this stuff because it felt pretty steady!
Sarah, Mark C
Duncan Livesey, Luke Cullum
|Graeme Hammond||19/Apr||Lead O/S||
Krzysztof Czechowicz, Gavin Singleton
Birthday offwidth. 1 slow slither onto gear after running out of momentum. Thrashed up next go. Great fun.
Paul Davies, Richard Henton
spat out numerous times
Awesome, one of the best routes I've ever done.
A good fight by Bob, but he ended up having to aid the top crack on my Camelot #6. Very happy to get up clean, but I felt a bit sick afterwards. Definitely one to lead next time.
Had to aid top using Matthews Camalot #6 !!
|ian d f||22/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
I'm not sure this was entirely enjoyable to climb but it was amusing watching the seconds struggle!
Desperation😁 she welcomed me in, then spat me back out, minus half the skin on legs & arms when topped out😁😁 should've listened to you paul Long sleeves & trousers
Arran Laird, Rhys Whitehouse
aron, Mark Roe
|Bloke on a Rope||28/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
Wanted to try this for a while, went ok really defo getting better at off-width.
David's first grit lead (attempt) - he backed off at the crux after a long struggle. I pulled the rope and lead it. Great line and climb!
nails at the top, didn't risk it climbed off it and abbed for the gear.
Never again ! Possibly the worst climb I have ever tried , horrid, even with roger pulling ; no joke about swimming ! Well , maybe not never :-)
A really big cam would have made the top bit of crack a bit less terrifying although it's lack did spur me on to the top once I was committed!
|lanky and weak||26/Apr/13||Lead||
|Two Cams Tom||02/Dec/12||2nd|
Great route until you near the top.... at which point upward progress seemed impossible. Almost got to a point where i couldn't even fall off! Not having much gear on your rack is useful.
No impression on this. sfter Chris succeeeded.
lost a lot of skin. worth wearing socks and long sleeves rolled up to elbows
2nded after my attempt at the lead ended one move short of the top, utterly exhausted and having stripped all the skin off my right arm. Rich led up and showed me how it was done, I was facing the wrong way! Face right and all will be well. Very well protected.
1st lead in a while... dam good
|Matt Cooke||06/Nov/11||Lead β|
|Adam Lincoln||20/Aug/11||Lead O/S|
Did RH variation, hot, humid, sweat, physical.
Got stuck by the rope, boobs, hips and well... everything. No fun at the time but kind of want to go back and do it now. Definite HVS, Hard VERY silly.
Much thrutching and may have been on the rope at times but hard to tell when your wedged in a offwidth at night!
|Mr. K||16/Apr/11||2nd O/S|
Required much effort... Top section done using the KFC technique
Swim! The top widening bit of crack is a great struggle not small enough to jam and not big enough to fit the whole body into. I felt i would just fall out the whole time. It rare when a route eats a whole set of cams inc. a size 5 camalot
|Martin Haworth||21/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
The clue's in the name!
phew! Did the direct variation, as I now know it to be. Next time I'm on this I'll do the original start! (which it appears the right hand of the two possible cracks is NOT. No wonder it felt harder than expected). Gear on the direct start is adequate with RP's - just.
Abominable. Tenacious lead by Peri.
found the main crack a straightforward udge, but the initial "easy" start a nightmare as couldnt reach big jugs at top, and yo-yoed it. Eventually found enough micro gear to prevent deck out and lowered to ground but did not pull ropes - after this led route without rests or falls. Ironically found the main off-width chimney absolutely straightforward.
Jesus wept. Desperation is the word. Hot, sweaty day. Just kept getting spat out of the crack. I'll come back on a cold day armed with jeans and a woolley jumper...
|Peter Holder||21/May/10||Lead O/S|
|simon kimber||17/May/10||Lead O/S||
Fabrizio Della Rossa
what a fight, left a lot of skin on this one !
|Mr Wild||?/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Shorts and T-shirt
|andrew sandercock||20/Feb/10||Lead O/S||
got fully stuck in for the first and only climb of the day. took a while figuring out/psyching myself up before the final showdown, much grunting and shouting at myself later i topped out. crack was wet with seepage and snowy topout on a proper bluebird day. AWESOME ROUTE!
Interesting and AWKWARD
Top crack bit was hard :-)
|Christian Beck||?/Oct/09||Lead O/S|
most effort ive ever put in on a HVS
Nasty Pasty body Jam to finish!
daz barker 3csm
Well named, like trying to climb up an elephant's arse! Prepare to lose some skin!
Take big stuff (Friend 6) for the top.
Thought i could shuffle up the top crack!! took 5min's trying (i am thin enough!!), then stepped back out, to finish properly!! Just like Frank did afterwards!! Thanks Daz!!
Tried to lead it but head up my arse again. Had to top rope it in the end.
|joe larner||30/Sep/07||Lead O/S|
Used shunt didnt load it though. Very awkward at the top.
Scuming fest like trying assist in the birth of a cow placing pro
|Matt Bill Platypus||10/Jun/06||2nd dog||
The final crack was awful. Eventually managed it after much blood and sweat!
|Jon Greengrass||??/2006||2nd O/S|
|Ram MkiV||?/Oct/05||Lead O/S||
full body pump. Eroded holes in T-shirt,
|Andy Graham||??/2005||TR dog||
Aptly named, took me a long time to do the finish, and a lot of sweat!
a memorable route
I tried to lead it but couldn't (well named - elephants arse!) Kim finished it
said "VD" in old guide book we where using - sandbag or wot! Just shows its all in the head - wouldn't of considered it if graded at HVS.
lee + shelby
|craig h||05/May/92||Lead O/S||
Well-named. I wrecked a brand new pair of Troll climbing trousers getting up this horror.
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||04/Sep/88||Lead|