12m.

Rockfax Description
14m. The slanting widening fissure is a classic of its genre. The lower section is steady enough until things turn pear-shaped, then abandon all technique and swim for your life. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THE LINE on Castle Rock.Follow the slightly offset crackline left of Jabberwok to an elephantine finish. Not a t-shirt and shorts climb. A rh variant start is about 5c taking the vague groove running out of the bottom of the upper crack by climbing up and slightly left.

Poss E.Y.M.C. Pre 1957.

Ticklists: Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Wide Cracks, The Dirty Dozen, Yorkshire Off Widths, Thrutch and Clutch.


ClimberDateStyle
tim newton 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Must have got better at this stuff because it felt pretty steady!

robertmichaeladams 26/Sep/15 Lead
with Sarah, Mark C
KeenClimber 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/15 TR dog
kyaizawa 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Duncan Livesey, Luke Cullum
lcullum7 23/Jun/15 2nd β
Hidden 23/Jun/15 2nd dnf
Joshcastril 18/Jun/15 Lead dnf

I need to learn how to swim.

SteveJCox 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Krzysztof Czechowicz, Gavin Singleton
freemanTom 18/Apr/15 Lead dog

Birthday offwidth. 1 slow slither onto gear after running out of momentum. Thrashed up next go. Great fun.

with Paul Davies, Richard Henton
daviesp2 18/Apr/15 2nd dnf

spat out numerous times

with Rich, Tom
petegunn 08/Feb/15 2nd
with Nick, Nicole, Matt Reeve, Davina
Hidden 08/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Olli-C 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
robertmctague 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Awesome, one of the best routes I've ever done.

Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
1poundSOCKS 30/Aug/14 2nd β

A good fight by Bob, but he ended up having to aid the top crack on my Camelot #6. Very happy to get up clean, but I felt a bit sick afterwards. Definitely one to lead next time.

bobpilgrem 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

Had to aid top using Matthews Camalot #6 !!

with Matthew
ian d f 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S

I'm not sure this was entirely enjoyable to climb but it was amusing watching the seconds struggle!

onlyfoddington 22/Aug/14 2nd dnf

I got as far as the final struggle - and after much struggle I was back to where I started. Mental.

with Michael, Ian
pearson9596 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
BAZIL 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Desperation😁 she welcomed me in, then spat me back out, minus half the skin on legs & arms when topped out😁😁 should've listened to you paul Long sleeves & trousers

with paul haunch
watson23 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
oread 30/May/14 2nd
petegunn 26/May/14 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd O/S
MarkRoe 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with Arran Laird, Rhys Whitehouse
whitehouse_rhys 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with aron, Mark Roe
2010_graham 13/Apr/14 TR dog
Fionnbharr 11/Mar/14 -
Hidden 22/Nov/13 Lead rpt
petegunn 22/Nov/13 2nd
with Bruce, Owain, Davina
owain-1978 22/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Bruce, Pete, davina
petegunn 06/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd rpt
Climbster 28/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Wanted to try this for a while, went ok really defo getting better at off-width.

with Matt
masa-alpin 08/Sep/13 Lead β

David's first grit lead (attempt) - he backed off at the crux after a long struggle. I pulled the rope and lead it. Great line and climb!

with David F
FragOcon 13/Aug/13 2nd
Dervey 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
jamesgodwin64 16/Jun/13 Lead dnf

nails at the top, didn't risk it climbed off it and abbed for the gear.

David_Gledson 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Alan
cherad 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Louise Bell
petegunn 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Bill, Davina
wildbill 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
cobweb 25/May/13 2nd

Never again ! Possibly the worst climb I have ever tried , horrid, even with roger pulling ; no joke about swimming ! Well , maybe not never :-)

with Roger Waterworth
MeMeMe 19/May/13 Lead O/S

A really big cam would have made the top bit of crack a bit less terrifying although it's lack did spur me on to the top once I was committed!

with Tom
petekeron 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 30/Apr/13 Lead
lanky and weak 26/Apr/13 Lead

Terrifying

with Katie
PeteH 16/Apr/13 2nd O/S
NaomiHart 16/Apr/13 Lead O/S
andi turner ??/2013 -
Two Cams Tom 02/Dec/12 2nd
petegunn 02/Dec/12 Lead
with Tom, Davina
Hidden 02/Dec/12 2nd rpt
petegunn 23/Nov/12 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 23/Nov/12 2nd dog
petegunn 05/Oct/12 Lead

Classic 3*

with Davina
Hidden 05/Oct/12 2nd dog
BeckyPayne 09/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
markfairbank 18/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Great route until you near the top.... at which point upward progress seemed impossible. Almost got to a point where i couldn't even fall off! Not having much gear on your rack is useful.

Paul Figg 20/Jun/12 2nd
Paul Figg 20/Jun/12 2nd
Matt Harle 20/May/12 2nd
egg-man 01/Apr/12 2nd dnf

No impression on this. sfter Chris succeeeded.

with Chris Vernon
Peter Reynolds ?/Apr/12 Lead
with matt harle
timmsy 30/Mar/12 Lead

lost a lot of skin. worth wearing socks and long sleeves rolled up to elbows

David_Gledson 30/Mar/12 2nd

2nded after my attempt at the lead ended one move short of the top, utterly exhausted and having stripped all the skin off my right arm. Rich led up and showed me how it was done, I was facing the wrong way! Face right and all will be well. Very well protected.

feilx 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S

1st lead in a while... dam good

with Floris
Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Dhonny_Jaws 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 06/Nov/11 Lead β
with Rosh
Petarghh 19/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Meg
mikecollins 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Did RH variation, hot, humid, sweat, physical.

Jack00 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Si Bulmer
alan1234 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
coombsy 08/May/11 Lead O/S
with John B
llamaglama 01/May/11 Lead dnf

Got stuck by the rope, boobs, hips and well... everything. No fun at the time but kind of want to go back and do it now. Definite HVS, Hard VERY silly.

with Jam
a13x 27/Apr/11 2nd

Much thrutching and may have been on the rope at times but hard to tell when your wedged in a offwidth at night!

with Ben Hirst
nia 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Painful

with Fred Mainwaring
Mr. K 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Diggler 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Required much effort... Top section done using the KFC technique

Calder 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf
rosh3000 ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 20/Nov/10 2nd

Thrutchtastic.

disturbed_one51 20/Nov/10 Lead

Swim! The top widening bit of crack is a great struggle not small enough to jam and not big enough to fit the whole body into. I felt i would just fall out the whole time. It rare when a route eats a whole set of cams inc. a size 5 camalot

with Wee man
akhughes 18/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Steptoe
Martin Haworth 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

The clue's in the name!

with Tony
Hidden 09/Jul/10 2nd rpt
pebbles 09/Jul/10 Lead rpt

phew! Did the direct variation, as I now know it to be. Next time I'm on this I'll do the original start! (which it appears the right hand of the two possible cracks is NOT. No wonder it felt harder than expected). Gear on the direct start is adequate with RP's - just.

with crofty
Kirk 04/Jul/10 2nd

Abominable. Tenacious lead by Peri.

with Peri
pebbles 04/Jul/10 Lead dog

found the main crack a straightforward udge, but the initial "easy" start a nightmare as couldnt reach big jugs at top, and yo-yoed it. Eventually found enough micro gear to prevent deck out and lowered to ground but did not pull ropes - after this led route without rests or falls. Ironically found the main off-width chimney absolutely straightforward.

Hardonicus 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Jesus wept. Desperation is the word. Hot, sweaty day. Just kept getting spat out of the crack. I'll come back on a cold day armed with jeans and a woolley jumper...

with sarah
Peter Holder 21/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd
simon kimber 17/May/10 Lead O/S
with Fabrizio Della Rossa
lithos 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

what a fight, left a lot of skin on this one !

with Roy Crouch
mikecollins 15/Apr/10 2nd dog
with cliff lowther
Mr Wild ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Shorts and T-shirt

dancey1981 ?/Mar/10 2nd
andrew sandercock 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

got fully stuck in for the first and only climb of the day. took a while figuring out/psyching myself up before the final showdown, much grunting and shouting at myself later i topped out. crack was wet with seepage and snowy topout on a proper bluebird day. AWESOME ROUTE!

with robert sandercock
mattyork2 30/Jan/10 2nd
with Johnny Richard
Mattyk ??/2010 2nd O/S

Interesting and AWKWARD

with Ali K
philw ??/2010 -
buddha1369 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Top crack bit was hard :-)

Christian Beck ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/09 2nd
Rowansb ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

most effort ive ever put in on a HVS

al99 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
martinazando 09/Aug/09 2nd dog
jimdanson 11/May/09 2nd
with Bob Curry
Hidden 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/09 2nd O/S
andy mcc 15/Feb/09 TR
with Robin Nicholson
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Rob Davies ?/Sep/08 Lead

"Large Friends help - one above pulling and one below pushing are best." 1998 guidebook. Alternatively thrash up a few mm at a time

with Phil Ashton
FrankKeogh 11/Jun/08 TR

Nasty Pasty body Jam to finish!

with Douggy
andrewineichen 11/Jun/08 TR dnf
with daz barker 3csm
Hidden 11/Jun/08 TR dnf
dougiestein 11/Jun/08 TR

Well named, like trying to climb up an elephant's arse! Prepare to lose some skin!

with Frank Keogh
clive-greenwood 04/Jun/08 Lead dnf
liamoloughlin ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Take big stuff (Friend 6) for the top.

Hidden 07/Mar/08 Lead O/S
IanJackson 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Robeverybody
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd
Matt crawford 20/Oct/07 Lead
AlanDavis 10/Oct/07 TR β

Thought i could shuffle up the top crack!! took 5min's trying (i am thin enough!!), then stepped back out, to finish properly!! Just like Frank did afterwards!! Thanks Daz!!

dazbarker 10/Oct/07 TR rpt

Tried to lead it but head up my arse again. Had to top rope it in the end.

joe larner 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
dazbarker 01/Aug/07 Solo O/S

Used shunt didnt load it though. Very awkward at the top.

tom_1985 ?/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Mark D
00hirsb ??/2007 -

Scuming fest like trying assist in the birth of a cow placing pro

rob askew ??/2007 -
fifth ??/2007 -
tomB 30/Sep/06 TR O/S
with Tim Griffin
Hidden 17/Sep/06 2nd
Matt Bill Platypus 10/Jun/06 2nd dog

The final crack was awful. Eventually managed it after much blood and sweat!

alicia 10/May/06 2nd
with Ali K
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
Rob Davies 05/Feb/06 Lead dnf

Failed at bulge. Green, but that's just an excuse.

with Andy Gee, Phil Ashton
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Hosey
Karl Bromelow ??/2006 -
markalmack ??/2006 Lead RP
Ram MkiV ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S

full body pump. Eroded holes in T-shirt,

with Tony Holdsworth
Hidden 29/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/05 Lead β
Andy Graham ??/2005 TR dog
with Chris Robinson
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/04 -
Hidden 16/Aug/04 TR RP
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
adamwesthead 28/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with Hoult
Nigel Coe 24/Aug/02 TR
with Tim Dunsby
Scottish78 14/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Fiona G
dougiestein ?/Jul/02 TR

Aptly named, took me a long time to do the finish, and a lot of sweat!

with James Potter
innes ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S

a memorable route

with Ruth
stuart100 19/Mar/00 2nd O/S
with Ian Brown
cragspud ??/2000 Lead O/S
craig h ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 06/Aug/98 2nd

I tried to lead it but couldn't (well named - elephants arse!) Kim finished it

with Kim Clark
Tenko 11/Jun/98 2nd O/S
with Glyn Jones
rocktigger ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S

said "VD" in old guide book we where using - sandbag or wot! Just shows its all in the head - wouldn't of considered it if graded at HVS.

with lee + shelby
Hidden 28/May/97 Lead O/S
Tom V 30/Apr/95 -
craig h 05/May/92 Lead O/S
with Matt Ford
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
allmag 12/Aug/91 Lead

Well-named. I wrecked a brand new pair of Troll climbing trousers getting up this horror.

uphillnow 29/Sep/90 Lead
Pete Pozman 13/Jun/90 2nd
with John Byrne
rob.grafton ??/1990 -
with barry maybank
Hidden 26/Nov/89 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Sep/88 Lead
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 04/Sep/88 2nd
with David
Andy Say 13/May/86 -
mikej 20/Apr/74 Lead
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 28/Aug/73 2nd
with John Bickerdyke
Hidden ??/1972 Lead
Dave Musgrove 26/Nov/67 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Bishop, leoch01, Hidden, Hidden, Keith Swainson, radams2000, jotunscope, Matthew Glenn, jammy4536, Hidden, Hidden, Simonj, jonnybull, tgeh, Niko, Sam Marks, benghull, phleppy, Davie Thomson, PanzerHanzler, betamonkey, Jack00
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set