Rockfax Description
14m. The slanting widening fissure is a classic of its genre. The lower section is steady enough until things turn pear-shaped, then abandon all technique and swim for your life. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THE LINE on Castle Rock.Follow the slightly offset crackline left of Jabberwok to an elephantine finish. Not a t-shirt and shorts climb. A rh variant start is about 5c taking the vague groove running out of the bottom of the upper crack by climbing up and slightly left.

Poss E.Y.M.C. Pre 1957.

Ticklists: Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Wide Cracks, The Dirty Dozen, Yorkshire Off Widths, Thrutch and Clutch.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
tim newton 10/Oct 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 10/Oct Lead O/S

Must have got better at this stuff because it felt pretty steady!

robertmichaeladams 26/Sep Lead
Sarah, Mark C
KeenClimber 11/Jul Lead O/S
kyaizawa 23/Jun Lead O/S
Duncan Livesey, Luke Cullum
lcullum7 23/Jun 2nd β
Hidden 23/Jun 2nd dnf
Hidden 18/Jun Lead dnf
SteveJCox 10/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 19/Apr Lead O/S
Krzysztof Czechowicz, Gavin Singleton
freemanTom 18/Apr Lead dog

Birthday offwidth. 1 slow slither onto gear after running out of momentum. Thrashed up next go. Great fun.

Paul Davies, Richard Henton
daviesp2 18/Apr 2nd dnf

spat out numerous times

Rich, Tom
petegunn 08/Feb 2nd
Hidden 08/Feb Lead rpt
Olli-C 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
robertmctague 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Awesome, one of the best routes I've ever done.

Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
1poundSOCKS 30/Aug/14 2nd β

A good fight by Bob, but he ended up having to aid the top crack on my Camelot #6. Very happy to get up clean, but I felt a bit sick afterwards. Definitely one to lead next time.

bobpilgrem 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

Had to aid top using Matthews Camalot #6 !!

ian d f 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S

I'm not sure this was entirely enjoyable to climb but it was amusing watching the seconds struggle!

Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd dnf
pearson9596 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
BAZIL 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Desperation😁 she welcomed me in, then spat me back out, minus half the skin on legs & arms when topped out😁😁 should've listened to you paul Long sleeves & trousers

paul haunch
watson23 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
oread 30/May/14 2nd
petegunn 26/May/14 Lead
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd O/S
MarkRoe 15/May/14 Lead O/S
Arran Laird, Rhys Whitehouse
whitehouse_rhys 15/May/14 Lead O/S
aron, Mark Roe
2010_graham 13/Apr/14 TR dog
Fionnbharr 11/Mar/14 -
Hidden 22/Nov/13 Lead rpt
petegunn 22/Nov/13 2nd
Bruce, Owain, Davina
owain-1978 22/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Bruce, Pete, davina
petegunn 06/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd rpt
Climbster 28/Sep/13 2nd β
Bloke on a Rope 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Wanted to try this for a while, went ok really defo getting better at off-width.

masa-alpin 08/Sep/13 Lead β

David's first grit lead (attempt) - he backed off at the crux after a long struggle. I pulled the rope and lead it. Great line and climb!

David F
FragOcon 13/Aug/13 2nd
Dervey 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
jamesgodwin64 16/Jun/13 Lead dnf

nails at the top, didn't risk it climbed off it and abbed for the gear.

David_Gledson 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt
cherad 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Louise Bell
petegunn 01/Jun/13 2nd
wildbill 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
cobweb 25/May/13 2nd

Never again ! Possibly the worst climb I have ever tried , horrid, even with roger pulling ; no joke about swimming ! Well , maybe not never :-)

Roger Waterworth
MeMeMe 19/May/13 Lead O/S

A really big cam would have made the top bit of crack a bit less terrifying although it's lack did spur me on to the top once I was committed!

petekeron 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 30/Apr/13 Lead
lanky and weak 26/Apr/13 Lead


PeteH 16/Apr/13 2nd O/S
NaomiHart 16/Apr/13 Lead O/S
andi turner ??/2013 -
Two Cams Tom 02/Dec/12 2nd
petegunn 02/Dec/12 Lead
Hidden 02/Dec/12 2nd rpt
petegunn 23/Nov/12 Lead
Hidden 23/Nov/12 2nd dog
petegunn 05/Oct/12 Lead

Classic 3*

Hidden 05/Oct/12 2nd dog
BeckyPayne 09/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
markfairbank 18/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Great route until you near the top.... at which point upward progress seemed impossible. Almost got to a point where i couldn't even fall off! Not having much gear on your rack is useful.

Paul Figg 20/Jun/12 2nd
Paul Figg 20/Jun/12 2nd
Matt Harle 20/May/12 2nd
egg-man 01/Apr/12 2nd dnf

No impression on this. sfter Chris succeeeded.

Chris Vernon
Peter Reynolds ?/Apr/12 Lead
matt harle
timmsy 30/Mar/12 Lead

lost a lot of skin. worth wearing socks and long sleeves rolled up to elbows

David_Gledson 30/Mar/12 2nd

2nded after my attempt at the lead ended one move short of the top, utterly exhausted and having stripped all the skin off my right arm. Rich led up and showed me how it was done, I was facing the wrong way! Face right and all will be well. Very well protected.

feilx 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S

1st lead in a while... dam good

Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Dhonny_Jaws 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 06/Nov/11 Lead β
Petarghh 19/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mikecollins 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Did RH variation, hot, humid, sweat, physical.

Jack00 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Si Bulmer
alan1234 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
coombsy 08/May/11 Lead O/S
John B
llamaglama 01/May/11 Lead dnf

Got stuck by the rope, boobs, hips and well... everything. No fun at the time but kind of want to go back and do it now. Definite HVS, Hard VERY silly.

a13x 27/Apr/11 2nd

Much thrutching and may have been on the rope at times but hard to tell when your wedged in a offwidth at night!

Ben Hirst
nia 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S


Fred Mainwaring
Mr. K 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Diggler 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Required much effort... Top section done using the KFC technique

Calder 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf
rosh3000 ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 20/Nov/10 2nd


disturbed_one51 20/Nov/10 Lead

Swim! The top widening bit of crack is a great struggle not small enough to jam and not big enough to fit the whole body into. I felt i would just fall out the whole time. It rare when a route eats a whole set of cams inc. a size 5 camalot

akhughes 18/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

The clue's in the name!

Hidden 09/Jul/10 2nd rpt
pebbles 09/Jul/10 Lead rpt

phew! Did the direct variation, as I now know it to be. Next time I'm on this I'll do the original start! (which it appears the right hand of the two possible cracks is NOT. No wonder it felt harder than expected). Gear on the direct start is adequate with RP's - just.

Kirk 04/Jul/10 2nd

Abominable. Tenacious lead by Peri.

pebbles 04/Jul/10 Lead dog

found the main crack a straightforward udge, but the initial "easy" start a nightmare as couldnt reach big jugs at top, and yo-yoed it. Eventually found enough micro gear to prevent deck out and lowered to ground but did not pull ropes - after this led route without rests or falls. Ironically found the main off-width chimney absolutely straightforward.

Hardonicus 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Jesus wept. Desperation is the word. Hot, sweaty day. Just kept getting spat out of the crack. I'll come back on a cold day armed with jeans and a woolley jumper...

Peter Holder 21/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd
simon kimber 17/May/10 Lead O/S
Fabrizio Della Rossa
lithos 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

what a fight, left a lot of skin on this one !

Roy Crouch
mikecollins 15/Apr/10 2nd dog
cliff lowther
Mr Wild ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Shorts and T-shirt

dancey1981 ?/Mar/10 2nd
andrew sandercock 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

got fully stuck in for the first and only climb of the day. took a while figuring out/psyching myself up before the final showdown, much grunting and shouting at myself later i topped out. crack was wet with seepage and snowy topout on a proper bluebird day. AWESOME ROUTE!

robert sandercock
mattyork2 30/Jan/10 2nd
Johnny Richard
Mattyk ??/2010 2nd O/S

Interesting and AWKWARD

philw ??/2010 -
buddha1369 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Top crack bit was hard :-)

Christian Beck ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/09 2nd
Rowansb ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

most effort ive ever put in on a HVS

al99 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
martinazando 09/Aug/09 2nd dog
jimdanson 11/May/09 2nd
Bob Curry
Hidden 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/09 2nd O/S
andy mcc 15/Feb/09 TR
Robin Nicholson
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
FrankKeogh 11/Jun/08 TR

Nasty Pasty body Jam to finish!

andrewineichen 11/Jun/08 TR dnf
daz barker 3csm
Hidden 11/Jun/08 TR dnf
dougiestein 11/Jun/08 TR

Well named, like trying to climb up an elephant's arse! Prepare to lose some skin!

Frank Keogh
clive-greenwood 04/Jun/08 Lead dnf
liamoloughlin ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Take big stuff (Friend 6) for the top.

Hidden 07/Mar/08 Lead O/S
IanJackson 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd
Matt crawford 20/Oct/07 Lead
AlanDavis 10/Oct/07 TR β

Thought i could shuffle up the top crack!! took 5min's trying (i am thin enough!!), then stepped back out, to finish properly!! Just like Frank did afterwards!! Thanks Daz!!

dazbarker 10/Oct/07 TR rpt

Tried to lead it but head up my arse again. Had to top rope it in the end.

joe larner 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
dazbarker 01/Aug/07 Solo O/S

Used shunt didnt load it though. Very awkward at the top.

tom_1985 ?/Mar/07 Lead dog
00hirsb ??/2007 -

Scuming fest like trying assist in the birth of a cow placing pro

rob askew ??/2007 -
fifth ??/2007 -
tomB 30/Sep/06 TR O/S
Tim Griffin
Hidden 17/Sep/06 2nd
Matt Bill Platypus 10/Jun/06 2nd dog

The final crack was awful. Eventually managed it after much blood and sweat!

alicia 10/May/06 2nd
Ali K
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd O/S
Karl Bromelow ??/2006 -
markalmack ??/2006 Lead RP
Ram MkiV ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S

full body pump. Eroded holes in T-shirt,

Tony Holdsworth
Hidden 29/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/05 Lead β
Andy Graham ??/2005 TR dog
Chris Robinson
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/04 -
Hidden 16/Aug/04 TR RP
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
adamwesthead 28/Sep/03 2nd O/S
Nigel Coe 24/Aug/02 TR
Tim Dunsby
Scottish78 14/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Fiona G
dougiestein ?/Jul/02 TR

Aptly named, took me a long time to do the finish, and a lot of sweat!

James Potter
innes ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S

a memorable route

stuart100 19/Mar/00 2nd O/S
Ian Brown
cragspud ??/2000 Lead O/S
craig h ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 06/Aug/98 2nd

I tried to lead it but couldn't (well named - elephants arse!) Kim finished it

Kim Clark
Tenko 11/Jun/98 2nd O/S
Glyn Jones
rocktigger ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S

said "VD" in old guide book we where using - sandbag or wot! Just shows its all in the head - wouldn't of considered it if graded at HVS.

lee + shelby
Hidden 28/May/97 Lead O/S
Tom V 30/Apr/95 -
craig h 05/May/92 Lead O/S
Matt Ford
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
allmag 12/Aug/91 Lead

Well-named. I wrecked a brand new pair of Troll climbing trousers getting up this horror.

Pete Pozman 13/Jun/90 2nd
John Byrne
rob.grafton ??/1990 -
barry maybank
Hidden 26/Nov/89 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Sep/88 Lead
Dave Musgrove 04/Sep/88 2nd
Andy Say 13/May/86 -
mikej 20/Apr/74 Lead
Nigel Sumner
mikej 28/Aug/73 2nd
John Bickerdyke
Hidden ??/1972 Lead
Dave Musgrove 26/Nov/67 -
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set