UKC

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The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.

The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.

43m, 2 pitches. 5a, 4c

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Guidebooks for St. Aldhelm's Head

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Route of Interest
The Peccary

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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