18m. Climb the left-trending cracks to reach ledges (possible stance for those practising multi-pitch). Continue left, passing the bulges precariously, to reach a recessed ledge and a leftward exit. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|andy mcc||09/Aug||Lead O/S||
Bit polished and messed up a bit at the start of the traverse. OK
|Neil Pacey||18/Jul||Lead O/S||
Great climb, did it as a hand traverse and a easy mantleshelf up at the end. Worked well plus you are not far from your last runner.
|Mr Fuller||12/Jun||2nd rpt|
|Morgan P||07/Jun||Lead rpt|
|Luke Jones||14/Apr||Lead O/S||
|Henry Brett||18/Oct/14||2nd dog||
Great climb, cmae off on the cracks at begining, very exciting!
John B, S.O.C.
Josephine has a big nose! hard tricky start until you get the the horizontal crack
Great step around the bulge
Made a meal of this climb. Needed to use feet more. First attempt at using a crack.
|Gordon W||??/2014||Lead O/S|
Top route, exciting foot traverse
Blustery! Amazing foot traverse, certainly had an 'eh?' to get into sentry box.
|Mr Fuller||11/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Great fun. Took a long while on the traverse (feet on the ledge, hands on not-very-much method). Eventually got it (backwards) and wondered what all the fuss was about...
|K Mckay||11/Aug/13||2nd O/S||
Great lead by Ange. If you foot traverse the ledge it's a pretty exposed, balancey move.
Pleased to do this one as decided on the steep crack of Napoleon last year rather than do the traverse! The step around at the end of the ledge is scary scary!! Kev took the lower route as a hand traverse on the ledge. The Rockfax guidebook isn't specific so it would be interesting to know how it was done on the first ascent and what the grading difference would be. A really enjoyable route though just for the adrenalin rush :D
|Tithe Technique||09/Jun/13||2nd O/S|
|Sarah Harri||20/Feb/13||2nd dog||
Very cold, had to rest on rope to warm hands!
|alias dave||07/Oct/12||Lead O/S|
Good gear, good moves, good fun. Hand traversed and then belly flopped as the guidebook wasn't specific about the route. Beware the slightly loose blocky flake at the end of the hand traverse - OK to pull on but not so good for gear.
Lucy P, Vix
Getting round corner very scary
|luke harper||19/Jun/12||Lead β|
The step round the corner was just as scary as the first time!
James Parkinson, Chris Moxon
|alias dave||05/May/12||Lead O/S|
|Sam Simpson||05/May/12||2nd O/S|
Took me a while to build up to the limbo move (which at 6 foot 2 was pretty daunting) but felt great once I did it! Great climb!
|Dafydd Llywelyn||07/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
Slightly worrying mantel. 1st time i soloed it.
F*** about! that move round the bulgeing arete after the traverse was bloody scary!
failed to lead this years ago
I hand traversed the ledge left and then mantled onto it. Was this cheating?
Lead up to ledge set up stance to practice for multi pitch
Did hand traverse around the corner after bottling the walk around.
|Pete Scott||22/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
lead up to ledge before, went around bulge properly this time!
|Laurence Everitt||02/Apr/11||2nd O/S|
|Tom Keaveny||24/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
|luke harper||24/Mar/11||2nd O/S|
Lead up to ledge as multi-pitch practice, Andy stomach traversed around the bulge! Awesome day! :)
|mike bridges||16/Oct/10||2nd O/S||
Cracking route!Stepped down,round and mantled instead of the balancy step round!
|Jimmy O||17/Sep/10||Lead O/S|
|mountain man ed||17/Sep/10||Lead O/S|
Nick Salmon, Matt Metcalfe
hand traverse instead of step around the corner
Matthew Jeffock, Michael Mason
|Dino Dave||26/Jun/10||Lead β||
Bottled the step round from the ledge, scuttled back, down and then along with hands on the ledge instead. I' m blaming my height...
|John Brayshaw||07/May/10||Lead rpt||
Didn't like the dirty great crack (full of gunk) and the ledge is scary but overall a nice climb.
Nervy start up the crack. Good protection to ledge. Spent a long time scaring myself silly on the ledge as was a very exposed move to traverse around the corner - finally did it by crouching down and using ledges just below the ledge for my feet and cracks in the ledge for my hands. Then another slightly less exposed move but on brilliant holds over a bit of an overhang - enjoyed this move (just glad to be off the ledge)! Possibly placed to dodgy nut or it had been pulled out of position but second bailed out and just as I started lowering him the gear ripped and he took an awesome pendulum swing to end up (not far above the ground) by the start of Josephine Superdirect.
Graham Arkley, Dan Hedges
|Rob Laird||02/Apr/10||Lead O/S|
|Murray Lee Brown||14/Mar/10||Lead O/S||
Started using the crack on the left instead of right which was tough. No hands traverse was interesting, although using hands on the ledge and feet on the holds would have been easier. Difficulties with rope drag while setting up anchor.
I traversed gingerly towards the sentry box, and was about to turn the corner when three or four pigeons flew out of it. Felt like Hollywood.
In the dark
|Harry Thorpe||31/Oct/09||2nd O/S||
|Graeme Hammond||18/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
the traverse stepping round the corner was excellent and gripping for a HS (i was standing on the big ledge, should my hands have been on it for an easier time??)
Pete aka Dad
|david morse||17/Oct/09||2nd O/S||
|Will Hunt||20/Sep/09||Lead O/S||
|Martin Davies||07/Sep/09||Solo O/S|
Fergus Cullen, Richard Andrews
|Mark Salter||09/Aug/09||Lead O/S||
Andy Quinn, Mike Quinn
|Vikki Bassek||21/Apr/09||2nd O/S||
|Martin McPhillie||?/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
|Daniel Sutherland||22/Mar/09||Lead O/S||
Very upright! Bit unnearving, put too many anchors in, ran out of quick draws near the top, lowered down and Rob finished....still learning!
I walked across the ledge and it was windy - scary. Al dropped down and traversed it with some hidden jugs..
Very overrated. Found it polished and thrutchy. Big rucksack didn't help
|Ewan Russell||21/Sep/08||Lead dnf||
|Tom Bristow||16/Jul/08||2nd rpt|
|Becky E||05/Jul/08||Lead O/S||
A hand traverse then mantle avoided the limbo move into the sentry box.
What an amazing limbo move for the tall!
Backed off after trying to traverse around the exposed corner.
Annie and Becca
brilliant route, worth all three stars
|adi bryant||?/May/07||Lead O/S||
|John Brayshaw||27/Apr/07||Lead rpt|
|Dax H||15/Jul/06||Lead dnf||
Botteld at the traverse
Tricky in the rain
|Chris Sansum||13/Apr/06||2nd O/S||
Excellent lead in horizontal rain from Wei.
Nice climb at end of day after belaying cadets.
2004 with Chris?
|joe king||?/Jun/03||Lead O/S||
|Simon Caldwell||14/May/03||Lead O/S|
|John Brayshaw||04/Sep/98||2nd rpt||
John Kennedy, Martin Cooper
Lyn's first Grit Severe!
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||21/Mar/94||Solo|
Alastair Boston, Mark Eccles
|Carl Hamer||23/Jul/93||2nd O/S|
|John Southworth||16/Nov/91||Solo O/S|
David's first lead.
|Pete Pozman||03/Jun/85||Lead rpt||
|John Brayshaw||01/Jun/81||2nd O/S||
great route the traverse round the corner is testing if you are like me a lanky git.
A N Other
Bob Elsom, Robin Hudson
|Pete Pozman||?/May/67||2nd O/S||
James Oldroyd, Mark Hastings, Terry Fletcher, Geoff Phillips