20m. A mega-classic, and pumpier than life itself, though at least this one has plenty of runners once you reach the start of the crack proper. Climb to the thin crack using pockets and follow it with great difficulty to the pigeon poo and collection of tat under the roof. All that remains between you and glory is the E5 roof-crack. Mega. © ROCKFAX
Ticklists: Extreme Rock, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, WideBoyz Crack School.
Photo: Nic Sellers on Milky Way (E5 6b), Ilkley © Tom, UKC News Editor
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