The Waster*** E1 5b
[Mally breathing deeply on The Waster, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
16m. Another fine climb, this one following a strong natural line. The groove and continuation crack are awkward and sustained. A finish up the short slab adds a little spice. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics.

Photo: Mally breathing deeply on The Waster © mark catcher
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This climb is in 136 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Utterly superb, struggling to think of a better grit route I have done at this grade
freemanTom - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/15 with Stefan, Tenko

Lead clean with 1st two pieces pre crux placed by James. Brilliant route.
Keith Swainson - Lead G/U - 11/Jul/15 with Matt Levick, James Turner

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/15

scottcoates - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/15

spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/15 with Tom

Mike Todd - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/15 with Helen Lawson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/15

andy mcc - Lead RP - 27/Sep/14 with Robin Nicholson

Fantastic climb! Thought it was very sustained with 5b climbing virtually all the way! Could be E2 (and would be in the peak)
Wizzy - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14

As greasy as a very greasy thing from a very greasy place!
Graham Booth - Lead - 15/Jul/14 with Dave Shields

Simply awesome!
Mike Todd - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Harrogate MC

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14

Jonathan Richardson - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Luca, Sam Watson

Hidden - TR - 05/May/14

nick ferro - TR O/S - 05/May/14 with Sonam Norbu

Fell because was much too far left at start, clean once was actually on the route.
crispycodd - TR dog - 05/May/14 with David Tidman

PaulTanton - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/14 with Sara

Nez - 2014

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/13

Jono_LS16 - Lead - 29/Aug/13

theloringharvey - Lead RP - 21/Jul/13 with Katherine Durtnell

rob.grafton - 2nd - 09/Jul/13 with Jim

good value!
WB - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Guy

Hidden - 10/Sep/12

Brilliant. That rare thing of technical gritstone with gear that isn't a complete slab.
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Aug/12

climbingpixie - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Andy

Dino Dave - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/12 with Sam

took a winger
Bill Lawrence - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/12 with dave warburton, andy lawrence

Excellent climb, good for the aspiring E2 leader who wants something safe, but nowhere near Earl Buttress (E2); will feel hard for the E1 leader though, i think.
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Bill's Dad, Bill Lawrence

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12

Crazy left-armed pumpfest!
Will242 - 2nd - 20/May/12 with pastep

SPD224 - 2nd - 24/Apr/12 with Martin Smith

What a character building top out! Made a little spicier by the green holds that I cleaned on my way up!
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/12 with Si

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Apr/12

Had to rest on my gear before trying to go direct onto the slab, couldn't do it so went left then rocked up onto slab.
pastep - Lead - 2012 with Will242

gmatthew - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11

chrishedgehog - Lead β - 24/Jul/11 with Kieran Myles

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 05/Jul/11

zebster - TR O/S - 18/Jun/11

adamwesthead - TR rpt - 18/Jun/11 with Zeb

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Jun/11

adamwesthead - TR dog - 11/Jun/11

Tricky moving through the groove, steadier above but keeps coming... will return, great route!
markfairbank - Lead dog - 03/Jun/11 with Ray Sharples

Fell trying to stand on the ledge below the slab
andysroom - Lead dog - 28/May/11

rcwaterworth - Lead - 09/May/11

Tried out self belaying for the first time with a shunt. Was pretty awkward and was climbing poorly. Route felt nails but not sure if I was just climbing badly and the route was really hard...dogged it
adamwesthead - TR dog - 19/Apr/11

climbed clean today with harry, hard work
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 02/Apr/11 with Harry Thorpe, Cocky, Mike Gadd

Jack00 - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Olly

ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Jack Colbeck

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Richard Williams

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Dave Foster

Couldn't get off the ground on a top rope *ahem* many years ago. Clean today via a little detour to left arete for a gasping point. High in the grade and better than Left Unconquerable.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Robin

andy mcc - 2nd - 29/Jul/10 with Jason King

adi bryant - Lead RP - 09/Jul/10 with Lee

leegodson1989 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Adi

Hidden - 2nd β - 23/Jun/10

very pumpy, but plenty of gear- considered it for my first E1 lead, but then changed my mind lol
ekaterina sigida - 2nd - 11/May/10 with Dave Green

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/10 with Ralph

Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/10 with Laurence Everitt

adam coxsell - 2nd - 28/Mar/10 with laurence

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/09

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/09 with Kevin

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Jun/09

daveclarke5 - TR β - 31/May/09 with Jim

First E1 Top - roped
nick ferro - TR O/S - 30/May/09 with Peter Wilkie

Also very good - top end.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Steve Ramsden

Ram MkiV - Lead β - 23/Apr/09 with Al

What a great climb! absolutely wasted. Gave 110% but just failed to make it onto the rockover slab. The bottom is intricate and I took to long sorting it out, asssumed I would get some sort of rest afterwards, must be blind! The top slab didn't go without thought either.
andrew300169 - Lead dog - 15/Mar/09 with Judy

madagascar - 2nd dnf - 15/Mar/09 with andrew300169

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Jan/09

Hidden - TR - 30/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/08

Hidden - TR rpt - 19/Jun/08

petellis - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Alpha Blue

GrantB - 2nd - 10/Jun/08 with Alpha Red

Bloody hard work
Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 21/May/08 with Joe

One slip coming out of a rest.
riven - 2nd dog - 21/May/08 with Chriswallis2

what style of ascent a beta pink point i think. i lobbed twice off the move onto the slab, second one quite a meaty fall.. lowered off rested and then led again clipping my gear which made it a lot easier to be fair as i arrived a little less pumped. was fairly pleased in end as i had lost the onsight years ago anyway..
Mattyk - Lead - 08/May/08 with Paul Giddings

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Lead dog - 2007

Sean_J - Lead dog - 2007

sdht - Lead dog - 06/Jun/06 with Sam Stell

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 04/May/06 with Ralph

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/05

Seconded James up this.
adam carless - 2nd dog - 2005 with James Rowe

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2005 with wayne

chrishedgehog - 2nd - 2005 with Alpine Tim (the twin)

Hidden - TR - 04/Sep/04

Excellent hard work E1. Doesn`t let up much
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Brown - Lead O/S - 26/May/04

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/04 with Chris Reid

stephmonks - 2nd - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/03

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Aug/03

lithos - Lead β - 2003 with cookie

Roget - Lead O/S - 2003 with jon

Hidden - Lead RP - 2003

shoulders - Lead - 19/Apr/02 with tom

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - Jun/01 with Chris Bird

rob.grafton - 08/May/01 with Bruce

Karl Bromelow - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/98

nickdonohue - Lead - 25/Apr/98 with Dave Chapman

rob.grafton - 2nd - 02/Sep/97 with Bruce

innes - Lead O/S - Oct/96 with CJ

crater - TR - 19/Jul/94

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Sep/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/93

rob.grafton - Lead - 16/Mar/93 with Bruce

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/92

ewjudge - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/91 with Mark Richards

Neil R - Lead - 03/Aug/91 with Richard W

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 21/Jul/91

Pete Pozman - TR - 10/May/91

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 23/May/90 with Andy Mackay

Tom V - 1990 with Glenn Watson

Dave Musgrove - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/89 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 21/Jun/89 with Dad

Hidden - TR - 1989

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 17/Sep/88 with Mike Boyle

Pete Pozman - Lead dog - 30/Apr/87 with John Byrne

Pete Pozman - Lead dog - 30/Apr/87 with John Byrne

craig h - 1987

bullybones - Lead - 1985

hazeysunshine - 2nd O/S - 1984

GeoffG - Lead - 05/Mar/79 with mick hardwick

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/78

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 14/Nov/76

Hidden - Lead - 1975

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ebf, iksander, stewart100, Bill Lawrence, alexanderjwatts, clairepoppett, Ropeboy, coombsy, Peter Smith, jak.kelly

Total votes cast 72
hard E20 of 25
E20 of 25
easy E23 of 25
hard E110 of 25
E18 of 25
easy E13 of 25
hard HVS0 of 25
HVS1 of 25
easy HVS0 of 25
hard 5c0 of 23
5c0 of 23
easy 5c0 of 23
hard 5b4 of 23
5b19 of 23
easy 5b0 of 23
hard 5a0 of 23
5a0 of 23
easy 5a0 of 23
3 Stars21 of 24
2 Stars2 of 24
1 Star1 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP