The Russian** HVS 5a
[Ken Priest preparing to climb The Russian, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Day at the Yat, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Ken Priest preparing to climb The Russian © sdrawkcabeoj
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 279 logbooks, and on 42 wishlists.

Legs - Lead rpt - 01/Oct/14 with Al

The history of deaths and injuries on this route has made me want to climb it since I first heard of it. Took a lot of care and respect on my way up it placing more gear than I normally would! I can see why people could get into difficulties. Sustained. But very good none the less.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/14 with Andy G

Climbster - 2nd β - 28/Aug/14 with Ian

Tough 1st lead! Looked much easier from the ground, if you get a rest lace it with gear!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/14 with Matt

Far Peak Climbing - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/14

First lead of the day, definitely should have warmed up first. Fantastic bridging and overhanging face climbing up the groove. The gear is fiddly and hard to place without getting too pumped. I ended up running it out big time at the crux, only thing stopping a potential ground fall was a green dragon cam in a slot just before the crux. 3 stars from me, and borderline E1. Loved it!....Read up on the history of this route and apparantly several people have died and multiple people injured on it. Eek.
jsmcfarland - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14 with Max

Fatclimber - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Jimbo

youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Steve

Mike W - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14

Legs - 2nd β - 03/Aug/14 with Mike

Hidden - 27/Jul/14

Neil - Lead - 16/Jul/14

monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/14 with Neil, Paul

Andrew171 - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14 with gemma smallman

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/14

AngelaC - 2nd - 24/Jun/14 with Jeremy

hotfeet - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Jonathan G

Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/14 with Steve Shenton

SJS - 2nd - 21/Jun/14 with Nick

pad-rat - Lead - 17/Jun/14 with tom

Pleased to have come back to get this clean - last time got pumped and rested on gear.
leigh - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/14 with Ali

Jamie Skelton - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Nicky Brierley

08nbrierley - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with jamie

felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Neil

pasbury - 2014

Good climbing and not as hard as I expected...though that's not to say it's easy. Care needed with loose rock, and you've got to work for good gear a bit.
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with James Slater

I have put this off for ages, its reputation precedes it! I can see why people have gotten into trouble in the past, but if your a confident HVS leader it isnt too bad, care needed with the rock and the gear!
james.slater - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Dan Lane

simonsclimbing - 2nd O/S - 29/Dec/13

deano - Lead - 29/Sep/13 with Ryan stokes

Budge - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Janet Vince, Mike Oates

Climbed placing gear as if on lead. Not so hard climbing but a few tricky gear placements at half height. Nice enough route with a little polish.
luke glaister - TR rpt - 03/Sep/13 with casey johns

Good to get this climb in enjoyed the moves but struggled stripping the gear! "Even on top rope"
casey johns - TR O/S - 03/Sep/13 with luke glaister

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Arul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/13

Stickle Tarn - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13

wilkinscl - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Edward shelly

morpcat - 2nd - 10/Aug/13 with wilkinscl

Not as hard as anticipated. I d take a star of as well.
Fred_Richard - Lead - 01/Aug/13 with terry

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/13

Mike Hood - Lead - 09/Jul/13

winter hill1 - Lead - Jul/13

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Cameron

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/13

Surprisingly tricky to move with the relatively poor hand holds
cameron_hall - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Will Benfold

Glad I wasn't put off this - great climbing and good gear, though no pushover.
mes32 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Aileen

Great climbing, and a good line. Top end HVS
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Emily

well sketchy
magicdougie - Lead - 02/Jun/13

Superb route
matthew_henson - Lead - 01/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

luke glaister - TR rpt - 07/May/13 with mr shunt

Top rope solo. Strenuous.
JamesColeman - TR O/S - May/13

Hidden - TR - 21/Apr/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/13 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 08/Apr/13 with Marti999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

cymjt - 2013

MJAS82 - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/12

Trad limestone, plenty of doubt. Video here: http://youtu.be/tqxWDL2Eti4
caradoc - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with nick yapp

Fell after 8 ish m. Had a chill then reattacked
jcasey2436 - Lead dog - 09/Aug/12 with Chris fletch

Ali.B - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with PeterRobers

petellis - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/12 with Sloth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

kate tarrant - 2nd O/S - Apr/12

Great fun bridging, shame it was short lived.
riddle - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12

adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/12

Definately a lot more accurate than "a right carry on" Fit the HVS grade perfectly with some taxing moves over the slight bulge, definately take care between 8-10 metres, had to leave early after Andy's gear popped and we escaped luckily with just a broken thumb. Fantastic climbing up the groove.
Jughead - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Andy Macrae

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12

theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Chris Allan

A great climb. good gear and nice exposed moves at hight. used a shunt and will lead this with my mate when he's out next.
luke glaister - TR O/S - 16/Feb/12 with mr shunt

alan moore - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

tomhill#1 - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Chris Ince

rd20 - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11 with Martin

smolders - 2nd - 08/Oct/11 with Robert D

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 27/Aug/11

rjshade - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Kai-ting Chuang, Gabriel Rosser

This was way too hard for me, and I only climbed it because we misread the guidebook and thought it was a different route (VD)! Very scary, with few opportunities for protection and lots of optimistic fumbling to place a nut. But then I was quite new to trad climbing, so this wasn't an ideal route to choose!
gaberosser - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Robbie Shade

JamesRich - 2nd - 11/Aug/11 with Tony Penning

possibly the scariest thing i've on sighted....love that feeling ***
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with gareth brading

gb05 - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Paul Southgate

Great route. Not that serious you just have to be clever with your gear. You can climb up to just before the crux , place a good cam and then drop down and bridge in the groove. Really enjoyed it.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Sam (Cousin)

Thought the gear was OK and the climbing fine for the grade.
The Ivanator - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Stewart

panda70 - 2nd - Aug/11

psronan - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

Have some history with this route so quite nervous beforehand but 'put it to bed'
Jon Didymus - Lead β - 26/Jun/11 with Ra

Bex_M - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Duncan Dunbar

This is only the second time i have led this scince i decked out on it from about 40ft up back when I started climbing, still nervous through the crux but this was nowhere near as bad as I remember! worth the effort but i think its still closer to E1 than HVS!
SamStokes - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/11 with Emily Stokes

SamStokes - TR rpt - 03/Jun/11 with Mr Mini-Traxion

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 29/May/11

daveaubrey - 2nd O/S - May/11

Awesome route!! Not sure why such a bad reputation as there is so much gear and most of it is bomber. A little loose in parts but really enjoyable climbing. Should be 3 stars.
dean79 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Marc Lloyd

marclloyd77 - 2nd - 29/Apr/11 with Dean Bucknall

sdrawkcabeoj - 10/Apr/11 with Sunil Manchanda, Ken Priest

petegruf - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with charles m

Had to rest on gear in middle as found it pretty tough! But made it to the top.
leigh - Lead dog - 09/Apr/11 with Sara

cem - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Peter Murphy, John Evans

phil lead, sparse gear, lovely midsection of crack thrusting
jpmole - 2nd - 20/Mar/11

Seconded Andy on this a year or so ago. Went OK, found a couple of tricky moves low down then didn't even notice the bit higher up that I was expecting to to be tricky.
monsteratt - Lead rpt - 30/Jan/11 with Nick Whimster

nickwhimster - 2nd - 30/Jan/11 with monty

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Oct/10

The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/10 with bpmclimb

Still doesn't seem that serious a route to me. Middle of the grade and well-protected (as long as you actually bother to put the gear in). Did Mockingbird HVS 4c (VS 4c on UKC) afterwards - much more committing and serious than The Russian IMO.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/10 with Ashley, Mark

ElvisLeg - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Brian Mullen

Lev - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Emma Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10

AJH - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Rob

Absolutely amazing climb. Worth waiting four years for. I found its not as hard as the reputation its given. Worth doing even if HVS 5a is your upper limit as long as you can place gear well. (i used link cams, Great panic gear)
coupy - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

Finally I have climbed the infamous Russian.Quite strenuous and sustained with a fair bit of polish. Fell off the crux and rested on the rope but got back on and managed to finish unaided. Very satisfying but wouldn't feel confident leading here at the moment especially remembering that someone has died on this route.Someone's nut was firmly wedged in the crack. Looks like they took a solid fall on it.Will definitely climb it again.
Dassie - TR RP - 10/Jul/10 with Self belay with shunt

tom169 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Pawel

raku - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Tom Mulier

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/10

first climb of the day, scared the crap out of me, puched myself too hard, tried to reach the piton about mid way, bottled it to save for another day...uuuuummm look easier than you think, be careful
snowy white - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Lucy

Colin got half way up - then retreated but left gear - climbed up and did the top half with some rests - a fierce route!
evhall - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with colin

Disco leg is all I can say. Ace route, was a bit pumpy and great if you enjoy bridging. Was a great day, warm, rock perfect, but if anything a bit humid, so chalk can in handy. Didn't use any cams, might be helpful though not a good ditch. Smaller hexes may be useful, also not a good ditch. So I found the middle section a bit exposed. I ended up finishing the route, then climbing another 30-30 feet, for the fun. Best advice is to just keep climbing, work hard, place gear and enjoy yourself.
SmithyXD - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

jon clayton - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with simon pinnell

Chubbard - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with J Robinson

ig248 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

breed - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10

Nicky Hill - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

TP - Lead - 2010

Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/09 with Rebecca Hayes

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - TR - 02/Aug/09

monsteratt - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Andy Abe

Hidden - TR dog - Aug/09

greasemonkey_04 - TR O/S - Aug/09

With Pete Williams
Mark Wyndham Brightwell - TR - 15/Jul/09

gdb4060 - Lead - 05/Jul/09 with Rick Sewards

Rained had to ab off nest of micro nuts at 3/4 as it was getting slippy. next time more cams for the top section.
Bobbyonrock - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/09 with Sparkles

A fun but difficult angled corner. Lots of bridging so my calf muscles (and all the rest) were screaming at the top. The top of my grade at the moment.
Mark_RMC - Lead - 13/Jun/09 with Michelle

Paul Robertson - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/09 with Gareth

Harder than it looks, as it kicks out a bit. Good though.
DorsetGareth - Lead - 11/Jun/09 with Paul Robertson

psronan - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/09

Great climb - This was one I had on my wish list for a long time and thoroughly enjoyed it when I got going. Described as a good bridge that petters out - but there are other holds to be had
pedropierre - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Rob the Doc

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09

tobyb - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

DannyK - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/09 with pep

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/09

clean at last!!
dja - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/09 with Andy Smith

Seemed a pretty straightforward corner crack line. VS with a bad reputation?
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/09 with Jon Thompson

jon thompson27 - Mar/09 with Alex Thompson

summo - 2009

Shweet route, felt sustained
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 2009

A solid effort from the barn owl...
Bobcat5060 - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/08 with Barney Ashton

guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/08

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/08 with Guy Percival

Hard!
Lewis Storey - 2nd - 21/Sep/08 with JH

kev_george - TR dnf - 13/Sep/08

chedder - 2nd - 12/Sep/08 with andy woolston

next time
dja - Lead dog - 21/Jul/08 with Matt Ling

matt ling - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/08 with dja

monkeyjumper - Lead - Jul/08

tom - Lead - 29/Jun/08

dja - Lead dog - 24/Jun/08 with Ken Priest

beccak - TR dog - May/08 with Tony Penning

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/08 with Thomas

Felt really different on second, pretty steady at the grade with lots of footholds. Great route.
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 02/Mar/08 with Bismarck

Rupey - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08 with Thomas

deklan - 2nd - Feb/08

committed climbing, hard to resist going higher before putting in gear. Glad I did, took a bit of a wipper onto a good cam. sprained ankle, lucky.
tbailey9 - Lead dog - 2008 with willam

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

strapless - 2008

Very pleased with this lead. I had seen someone deck out from it 24 years ago and had been wary ever since. A very good route. The protection is adequate but never brilliant in my opinion. You need to be competent at fiddling in small wires while under pressure. There is a temptation to go higher in search of better gear which is to be resisted. Many have decked when tempted to do this and there has been at least one fatality. I would have no argument with E1 5a.
poey50 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Rowan15

Hidden - Sep/07

Circus - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Lou

tweedcore - TR - Aug/07 with Jam/Nath/Toby

Hjort - Lead dnf - Jul/07 with Nath Wells, Owen Tweedie, Jam Mortimer

WOW!!!!
Dunx - Lead RP - 26/Jun/07 with John

Nice route. Lots of bomber nut placements - but make sure you put plenty in as as you go along as there have been a few nasty accidents on this route (the gear isn't tricky like the route's reputation would suggest though). And yank them hard to seat them properly! Quite sustained - made the calf muscles hurt! The rock reminded me of a corner climb I did in the Dolomites.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Weilin Wang

Scary as fuck
Crinkle - Lead dnf - Jun/07 with James Mortimer, Toby Vye, Owen Tweedie

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 28/May/07 with plaz

plaz - 2nd - 28/May/07

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/07 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/07

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - Mar/07 with Mirek

pumped! and fell will finnish oneday
Adam Humphreys - Lead dnf - 18/Feb/07 with Dunx

Andrew1 - Lead - 04/Feb/07 with Andy Lewington

djim69bob - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/06

leigh - 2nd - Aug/06 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/06

1 rest
BruceW - Lead dog - 29/Jul/06 with Becca, Nick, Jo

RandomHero - 2nd - 04/Jun/06

Tricky mid section - not much to put your feet on, and a little polished in places. Nice comfortable finish at end.
NCorbett - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Dave Pendleton

cas54321 - 2nd - 02/Jun/06 with Mike

mikelaing - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Carolyn

Nice crack no problem as a morning climb 7am start after bivving during the height of the summer - sure we could hear wild boar though
jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with simon mayell

Danhan - Lead - 28/May/06 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/06

Hidden - May/06

gripped01 - 2nd O/S - May/06 with Jim Jarvis

dan gibson - 2006

Bern - 2006

chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 2006

didn't get very far... got too scared! top roped to retrieve gear.... will crack it this summer!
djim69bob - Lead dnf - 2006

Phil PBC - 2006

rhysjones932 - 12/Aug/05

psronan - Lead - 01/Aug/05

Marvino - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Blackie

mattf77 - Lead - Jul/05

upontop - TR - Jun/05 with Chris

petellis - 2nd O/S - Apr/05 with Cleric James Koran

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Clare Wolstenholme

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/05

Possibly my first HVS - surprised I lived!
kenneM - Lead - Mar/05 with Moony

Dave Toseland - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/04

Hidden - 2004

Digger - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/03 with James Latham

lithos - Lead O/S - Aug/03

Mark Collins - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/03 with Andrew Primrose

first HVS, VERY POLISHED
MikeC59 - Lead - 11/May/03

Boxy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/03

mikej - TR - 22/Mar/03 with Nick Salmon

markysums - Lead - 2003

tomkhoward - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Ian Baker

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 28/Sep/02 with Paul Tucker

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Sep/02

Little B - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/02

Mark Salter - Lead - 28/Jun/02

MikeC59 - 2nd - 03/Jun/02

cem - 2nd - 14/Apr/02 with Graham Dolman

Dry day. Scared myself!
verticalsport - 2nd - 05/Aug/01 with Nick

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/00

Jason Gotel - TR - Jul/00 with Tim Weekes

Scotsken - 2000

Cailean Harker - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/99

MartinN - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/99

liabilityliz - Lead - Jul/98 with Mark Trepte

Brian Rodgers - 1998

ewjudge - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/97 with OUOTC

Justin Tracey - 1997 with Dave Thorne

Roped solo using upside-down shunt and lots of adrenaline.
Nigel Coe - Lead - 1997

mikej - Lead - 18/Jul/96 with R

Tim Bateman - Lead - 05/May/96

mikej - Lead - 04/Jul/95 with Simon Chapman

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/94

Felt like a real sandbag at VS.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Jul/94 with Debbie Wilkinson

Seductive sandbag. May before (1993) I belayed a leader who fell off from 3/4 height and decked on rope stretch. Fracture to spine but he walked away. I went to A/E with severe rope burn!
Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 01/May/94 with Marcus

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/94

Climbed when it was still a VS.
agagsgrot - 2nd O/S - Oct/93 with Pete

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/93

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/93 with JT

Hidden - Lead - Apr/93

Guy - 1992

1st climb in England and tough going
Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/91 with Lewis

mark-abz - 2nd - 27/May/90 with Ian D

strapless - Lead - 1990 with Ju

Hidden - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/89

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/89

nigehughes - Lead - May/89 with Steve Magee

mikej - 2nd - 19/Sep/88 with Robert Smith

Iain Thow - TR - 14/Apr/88 with Steve Ball, Phil Moorey

finally....after several attempts
ill_bill - 2nd - Apr/88 with Niall McHugh

mikej - Lead - 23/Sep/87 with Pete Rowbottom

Got rained off so departed for a recce of Huntsham.
mikej - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/87 with Robert Smith

1st vs lead, and now its a hvs/E1
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - Sep/87

DDDD - AltLd - 1986

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 1986

RichardMc - Lead - 26/May/85 with Jon Clifford-Smith

tapley - Lead - 04/May/85

leland stamper - 2nd O/S - Feb/85 with Pete Johnson?

babymoac - 1985

jcw - 1985 with Simon Donowho

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/84

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Fatclimber, kim.mulji, Blake, Joel Perkin, Dave 88, Sebastien Gastaud, mattmurphy, dawesbub, ron244, dean79, benny b, maherp, iforwms, Ffej, Chris Perry, 2spike, jak.kelly, hapymike, ChrisDine, tobydunford, jamie-annetts, Tomprusk, groovy_nut, Dax, crimponite123, j.anstee, Hjort, Suz123, givemetea, gareth r, sen, Col_MAN, jeffsheard

Voting
Total votes cast 170
hard E10 of 58
E10 of 58
easy E15 of 58
hard HVS19 of 58
HVS28 of 58
easy HVS5 of 58
hard VS1 of 58
VS0 of 58
easy VS0 of 58
hard 5b0 of 57
5b1 of 57
easy 5b2 of 57
hard 5a25 of 57
5a24 of 57
easy 5a5 of 57
hard 4c0 of 57
4c0 of 57
easy 4c0 of 57
3 Stars13 of 55
2 Stars32 of 55
1 Star9 of 55
0 Stars1 of 55
Bag of .....0 of 55
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf