No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Day at the Yat, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

steve-grigg 31/Oct Lead O/S
John Higgs 25/Sep Solo rpt
Stickle Tarn 31/Jul Lead rpt
John Higgs 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Jonathan Moorhouse
oldcheese 11/Jul Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 27/May Lead rpt

Warmed up on this. Miles easier when you have done it before and know what to expect. Plenty of gear to place as long as you are good at getting into a resting position before you place it. Definitely not recommended for people climbing HVS at their limit!

with Steve
Stepanek 17/May Lead O/S
mclancy50 16/May Lead dog

Got a bit scared and took a few rests... Such a good route though! Soloed the last section past the belay spot for a cracking view point!

with Brian Taylor, Chris Stepanek
tom.organ 04/May Lead dog


Hidden 31/Mar 2nd rpt
Jack Porteous 21/Mar Lead
cwildblood 21/Mar Lead O/S
with owen gibson
ElBarto 21/Mar 2nd dog

Very tough move on route, I think I remember it being polished too. Wouldn't want to lead it.

with Paul Archer
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
alastairbegley 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S

pretty wet which added some entertainment, enjoyable route with good climbing

Hidden 30/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Legs 01/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Al
Stanners 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S

The history of deaths and injuries on this route has made me want to climb it since I first heard of it. Took a lot of care and respect on my way up it placing more gear than I normally would! I can see why people could get into difficulties. Sustained. But very good none the less.

with Andy G
Climbster 28/Aug/14 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tough 1st lead! Looked much easier from the ground, if you get a rest lace it with gear!

with Matt
Far Peak Climbing 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
matt peacey 20/Aug/14 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First lead of the day, definitely should have warmed up first. Fantastic bridging and overhanging face climbing up the groove. The gear is fiddly and hard to place without getting too pumped. I ended up running it out big time at the crux, only thing stopping a potential ground fall was a green dragon cam in a slot just before the crux. 3 stars from me, and borderline E1. Loved it!....Read up on the history of this route and apparantly several people have died and multiple people injured on it. Eek.

with Max
Fatclimber 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Jimbo
youwillfindjimbo 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Steve
Mike W 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Legs 03/Aug/14 2nd β
with Mike
Hidden 27/Jul/14 -
Neil 16/Jul/14 Lead
monsteratt 16/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Neil, Paul
Andrew171 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead
AngelaC 24/Jun/14 2nd
with Jeremy
hotfeet 22/Jun/14 Lead
with Jonathan G
Nick Russell 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
SJS 21/Jun/14 2nd
with Nick
pad-rat 17/Jun/14 Lead
with tom
leigh 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Pleased to have come back to get this clean - last time got pumped and rested on gear.

with Ali
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with jamie
tom0129 ?/May/14 2nd
felixizzy 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Neil
pasbury ??/2014 -
Dan Lane 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Good climbing and not as hard as I expected...though that's not to say it's easy. Care needed with loose rock, and you've got to work for good gear a bit.

Hidden 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S
simonsclimbing 29/Dec/13 2nd O/S
deano 29/Sep/13 Lead
with Ryan stokes
Budge 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Janet Vince, Mike Oates
luke glaister 03/Sep/13 TR rpt

Climbed placing gear as if on lead. Not so hard climbing but a few tricky gear placements at half height. Nice enough route with a little polish.

casey johns 03/Sep/13 TR O/S

Good to get this climb in enjoyed the moves but struggled stripping the gear! "Even on top rope"

Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Arul
Matt1234 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Stickle Tarn 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
wilkinscl 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
morpcat 10/Aug/13 2nd
Fred_Richard 01/Aug/13 Lead

Not as hard as anticipated. I d take a star of as well.

with terry
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd
Mike Hood 09/Jul/13 Lead
winter hill1 ?/Jul/13 Lead
will_benfold 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Cameron
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
cameron_hall 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Surprisingly tricky to move with the relatively poor hand holds

mes32 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Glad I wasn't put off this - great climbing and good gear, though no pushover.

with Aileen
Nick Russell 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing, and a good line. Top end HVS

with Emily
magicdougie 02/Jun/13 Lead

well sketchy

matthew_henson 01/Jun/13 Lead

Superb route

Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
luke glaister 07/May/13 TR rpt
with mr shunt
JamesColeman ?/May/13 TR O/S

Top rope solo. Strenuous.

Hidden 21/Apr/13 TR
Marti999 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
debbie roberts 08/Apr/13 2nd
Curly Rich 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

CC Guide book nearly put me off climbing this glad it didn't. :)

with GMC Steve W
cymjt ??/2013 -
MJAS82 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
caradoc 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Trad limestone, plenty of doubt. Video here:

with nick yapp
jcasey2436 09/Aug/12 Lead dog

Fell after 8 ish m. Had a chill then reattacked

with Chris fletch
Ali.B 25/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with PeterRobers
petellis 02/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Sloth
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
kate tarrant ?/Apr/12 2nd O/S
riddle 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Great fun bridging, shame it was short lived.

adam 24 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Jughead 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Definately a lot more accurate than "a right carry on" Fit the HVS grade perfectly with some taxing moves over the slight bulge, definately take care between 8-10 metres, had to leave early after Andy's gear popped and we escaped luckily with just a broken thumb. Fantastic climbing up the groove.

with Andy Macrae
chrisallan 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
theotherpetehill 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
luke glaister 16/Feb/12 TR O/S

A great climb. good gear and nice exposed moves at hight. used a shunt and will lead this with my mate when he's out next.

with mr shunt
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
tomhill#1 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Goose4 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Ince
rd20 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Martin
smolders 08/Oct/11 2nd
Anthony Dixon 27/Aug/11 Lead
rjshade 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Kai-ting Chuang, Gabriel Rosser
gaberosser 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

This was way too hard for me, and I only climbed it because we misread the guidebook and thought it was a different route (VD)! Very scary, with few opportunities for protection and lots of optimistic fumbling to place a nut. But then I was quite new to trad climbing, so this wasn't an ideal route to choose!

JamesRich 11/Aug/11 2nd
with Tony Penning
brew_guru 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

possibly the scariest thing i've on that feeling ***

gb05 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
James Oswald 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Great route. Not that serious you just have to be clever with your gear. You can climb up to just before the crux , place a good cam and then drop down and bridge in the groove. Really enjoyed it.

The Ivanator 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Thought the gear was OK and the climbing fine for the grade.

with Stewart
panda70 ?/Aug/11 2nd
psronan 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Didymus 26/Jun/11 Lead β

Have some history with this route so quite nervous beforehand but 'put it to bed'

with Ra
Bex_M 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
SamStokes 04/Jun/11 Lead rpt

This is only the second time i have led this scince i decked out on it from about 40ft up back when I started climbing, still nervous through the crux but this was nowhere near as bad as I remember! worth the effort but i think its still closer to E1 than HVS!

SamStokes 03/Jun/11 TR rpt
with Mr Mini-Traxion
Ian JL 29/May/11 Lead O/S
daveaubrey ?/May/11 2nd O/S
dean79 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route!! Not sure why such a bad reputation as there is so much gear and most of it is bomber. A little loose in parts but really enjoyable climbing. Should be 3 stars.

marclloyd77 29/Apr/11 2nd
sdrawkcabeoj 10/Apr/11 -
with Sunil Manchanda, Ken Priest
petegruf 09/Apr/11 2nd
with charles m
leigh 09/Apr/11 Lead dog

Had to rest on gear in middle as found it pretty tough! But made it to the top.

with Sara
cem 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Peter Murphy, John Evans
jpmole 20/Mar/11 2nd

phil lead, sparse gear, lovely midsection of crack thrusting

monsteratt 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt

Seconded Andy on this a year or so ago. Went OK, found a couple of tricky moves low down then didn't even notice the bit higher up that I was expecting to to be tricky.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 30/Jan/11 2nd
with monty
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd
Urgles 08/Sep/10 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 08/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Still doesn't seem that serious a route to me. Middle of the grade and well-protected (as long as you actually bother to put the gear in). Did Mockingbird HVS 4c (VS 4c on UKC) afterwards - much more committing and serious than The Russian IMO.

with Ashley, Mark
ElvisLeg 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Lev 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
AJH 09/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Rob
coupy 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing climb. Worth waiting four years for. I found its not as hard as the reputation its given. Worth doing even if HVS 5a is your upper limit as long as you can place gear well. (i used link cams, Great panic gear)

Dassie 10/Jul/10 TR RP

Finally I have climbed the infamous Russian.Quite strenuous and sustained with a fair bit of polish. Fell off the crux and rested on the rope but got back on and managed to finish unaided. Very satisfying but wouldn't feel confident leading here at the moment especially remembering that someone has died on this route.Someone's nut was firmly wedged in the crack. Looks like they took a solid fall on it.Will definitely climb it again.

with Self belay with shunt
tom169 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Pawel
raku 02/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Tom Mulier
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
snowy white 20/Jun/10 Lead

first climb of the day, scared the crap out of me, puched myself too hard, tried to reach the piton about mid way, bottled it to save for another day...uuuuummm look easier than you think, be careful

with Lucy
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead dog
SmithyXD 20/May/10 Lead O/S

Disco leg is all I can say. Ace route, was a bit pumpy and great if you enjoy bridging. Was a great day, warm, rock perfect, but if anything a bit humid, so chalk can in handy. Didn't use any cams, might be helpful though not a good ditch. Smaller hexes may be useful, also not a good ditch. So I found the middle section a bit exposed. I ended up finishing the route, then climbing another 30-30 feet, for the fun. Best advice is to just keep climbing, work hard, place gear and enjoy yourself.

jon clayton 19/May/10 Lead O/S
with simon pinnell
Chubbard 03/May/10 Lead O/S
ig248 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
breed 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Nicky Hill ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
TP ??/2010 Lead
Paul Bowen 19/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/09 TR
monsteratt ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Andy Abe
Hidden ?/Aug/09 TR dog
greasemonkey_04 ?/Aug/09 TR O/S
Mark Brightwell 15/Jul/09 TR

With Pete Williams

gdb4060 05/Jul/09 Lead
with Rick Sewards
Bobbyonrock 28/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Rained had to ab off nest of micro nuts at 3/4 as it was getting slippy. next time more cams for the top section.

with Sparkles
Mark_RMC 13/Jun/09 Lead

A fun but difficult angled corner. Lots of bridging so my calf muscles (and all the rest) were screaming at the top. The top of my grade at the moment.

with Michelle
Paul Robertson 11/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 11/Jun/09 Lead

Harder than it looks, as it kicks out a bit. Good though.

psronan 02/Jun/09 2nd O/S
pedropierre 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Great climb - This was one I had on my wish list for a long time and thoroughly enjoyed it when I got going. Described as a good bridge that petters out - but there are other holds to be had

with Rob the Doc
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd O/S
tobyb 02/May/09 Lead O/S
DannyK 24/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with pep
Hidden 23/Apr/09 2nd O/S
dja 23/Apr/09 Lead rpt

clean at last!!

Alex Thompson 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Seemed a pretty straightforward corner crack line. VS with a bad reputation?

jon thompson27 ?/Mar/09 -
with Alex Thompson
summo ??/2009 -
Andrew Abraham ??/2009 Lead O/S

Shweet route, felt sustained

Bobcat5060 13/Oct/08 2nd O/S

A solid effort from the barn owl...

with Barney Ashton
guy xavier percival 09/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 30/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Lewis Storey 21/Sep/08 2nd


with JH
kev_george 13/Sep/08 TR dnf
chedder 12/Sep/08 2nd
with andy woolston
dja 21/Jul/08 Lead dog

next time

matt ling 21/Jul/08 2nd dog
with dja
monkeyjumper ?/Jul/08 Lead
tom 29/Jun/08 Lead
dja 24/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Ken Priest
beccak ?/May/08 TR dog
with Tony Penning
Bristoldave 03/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Thomas
thomasadixon 02/Mar/08 2nd rpt

Felt really different on second, pretty steady at the grade with lots of footholds. Great route.

with Bismarck
Rupey 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Thomas
deklan ?/Feb/08 2nd
tbailey9 ??/2008 Lead dog

committed climbing, hard to resist going higher before putting in gear. Glad I did, took a bit of a wipper onto a good cam. sprained ankle, lucky.

with willam
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
strapless ??/2008 -
poey50 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Very pleased with this lead. I had seen someone deck out from it 24 years ago and had been wary ever since. A very good route. The protection is adequate but never brilliant in my opinion. You need to be competent at fiddling in small wires while under pressure. There is a temptation to go higher in search of better gear which is to be resisted. Many have decked when tempted to do this and there has been at least one fatality. I would have no argument with E1 5a.

with Rowan15
Hidden ?/Sep/07 -
Circus 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
tweedcore ?/Aug/07 TR
with Jam/Nath/Toby
Hjort ?/Jul/07 Lead dnf
with Nath Wells, Owen Tweedie, Jam Mortimer
Dunx 26/Jun/07 Lead RP


with John
Chris Sansum 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Nice route. Lots of bomber nut placements - but make sure you put plenty in as as you go along as there have been a few nasty accidents on this route (the gear isn't tricky like the route's reputation would suggest though). And yank them hard to seat them properly! Quite sustained - made the calf muscles hurt! The rock reminded me of a corner climb I did in the Dolomites.

with Weilin Wang
Crinkle ?/Jun/07 Lead dnf

Scary as fuck

with James Mortimer, Toby Vye, Owen Tweedie
thomasadixon 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with plaz
plaz 28/May/07 2nd
bpmclimb 27/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Jim Slater ?/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Mirek
Adam Humphreys 18/Feb/07 Lead dnf

pumped! and fell will finnish oneday

with Dunx
Andrew1 04/Feb/07 Lead
with Andy Lewington
djim69bob ??/2007 -
Hidden 24/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead
leigh ?/Aug/06 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 29/Jul/06 2nd O/S
BruceW 29/Jul/06 Lead dog

1 rest

with Becca, Nick, Jo
RandomHero 04/Jun/06 2nd
NCorbett 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Tricky mid section - not much to put your feet on, and a little polished in places. Nice comfortable finish at end.

with Dave Pendleton
cas54321 02/Jun/06 2nd
with Mike
mikelaing ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Carolyn
jon thompson27 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Nice crack no problem as a morning climb 7am start after bivving during the height of the summer - sure we could hear wild boar though

with simon mayell
Danhan 28/May/06 Lead
with Nick
Hidden 28/May/06 2nd
Hidden ?/May/06 -
gripped01 ?/May/06 2nd O/S
with Jim Jarvis
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
chris wyatt ??/2006 Lead O/S
djim69bob ??/2006 Lead dnf

didn't get very far... got too scared! top roped to retrieve gear.... will crack it this summer!

Phil PBC ??/2006 -
rhysjones932 12/Aug/05 -
psronan 01/Aug/05 Lead
Marvino ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Blackie
mattf77 ?/Jul/05 Lead
upontop ?/Jun/05 TR
with Chris
petellis ?/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Will Gordon ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
kenneM ?/Mar/05 Lead

Possibly my first HVS - surprised I lived!

with Moony
Dave Toseland ??/2005 -
Hidden 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/04 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Digger 13/Oct/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
lithos ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 15/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Andrew Primrose
MikeC59 11/May/03 Lead


Boxy 18/Apr/03 2nd O/S
mikej 22/Mar/03 TR
with Nick Salmon
markysums ??/2003 Lead
tomkhoward ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Ian Baker
Andy Fielding 28/Sep/02 2nd
with Paul Tucker
just one more 28/Sep/02 Lead
with Max B, Svenn G
Hidden 21/Sep/02 Lead dog
Little B 18/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Mark Salter 28/Jun/02 Lead
MikeC59 03/Jun/02 2nd
cem 14/Apr/02 2nd
verticalsport 05/Aug/01 2nd

Dry day. Scared myself!

with Nick
petekeron ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/00 2nd
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/00 TR
with Tim Weekes
DubyaJamesDubya 03/Jun/00 Lead O/S

Cedric's first day outside climbing. Cloudy but good.

with Cedric Favre
Scotsken ??/2000 -
Cailean Harker ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/99 Lead O/S
MartinN 11/Jul/99 2nd O/S
liabilityliz ?/Jul/98 Lead
with Mark Trepte
Brian Rodgers ??/1998 -
ewjudge 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with OUOTC
Justin Tracey ??/1997 -
with Dave Thorne
Nigel Coe ??/1997 Lead

Roped solo using upside-down shunt and lots of adrenaline.

mikej 18/Jul/96 Lead
with R
Tim Bateman 05/May/96 Lead
mikej 04/Jul/95 Lead
with Simon Chapman
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/94 Lead
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/94 Lead

Felt like a real sandbag at VS.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden ?/May/94 2nd O/S
agagsgrot ?/Oct/93 2nd O/S

Climbed when it was still a VS.

with Pete
Hidden 04/Jun/93 Lead
Roget 13/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Hidden ?/Apr/93 Lead
Guy ??/1992 -
Cowflinger 09/Nov/91 Lead O/S

1st climb in England and tough going

with Lewis
mark-abz 27/May/90 2nd
with Ian D
strapless ??/1990 Lead
with Ju
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/89 Lead
nigehughes ?/May/89 Lead
with Steve Magee
alan moore ??/1989 -

First VS. Have never been able to repeat it and no longer wish to.

mikej 19/Sep/88 2nd
with Robert Smith
Iain Thow 14/Apr/88 TR
with Steve Ball, Phil Moorey
mikej 23/Sep/87 Lead
with Pete Rowbottom
mikej 22/Sep/87 Lead dnf

Got rained off so departed for a recce of Huntsham.

with Robert Smith
Jelly Mould Surfer ?/Sep/87 Lead O/S

1st vs lead, and now its a hvs/E1

DDDD ??/1986 AltLd
Mickdenali ??/1986 Lead O/S
RichardMc 26/May/85 Lead
with Jon Clifford-Smith
tapley 04/May/85 Lead
leland stamper ?/Feb/85 2nd O/S
with Pete Johnson?
babymoac ??/1985 -
jcw ??/1985 -
with Simon Donowho
Hidden 21/Jun/84 2nd
ill_bill 16/Jan/83 2nd
with Niall McHugh
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, tskelhon, Fatclimber, kim.mulji, Hidden, Blake, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dave 88, Sebastien Gastaud, mattmurphy, dawesbub, ron244, dean79, Hidden, Hidden, maherp, iforwms, Hidden, Ffej, Hidden, 2spike, jak.kelly, hapymike, ChrisDine, tobydunford, jamie-annetts, Tomprusk, Hidden, groovy_nut, Dax, crimponite123, Hidden, j.anstee, Hidden, Hjort, Suz123, givemetea, gareth r, sen, Col_MAN, AsleepOnBelay
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 60
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set