The history of deaths and injuries on this route has made me want to climb it since I first heard of it. Took a lot of care and respect on my way up it placing more gear than I normally would! I can see why people could get into difficulties. Sustained. But very good none the less. Stanners - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/14 with Andy G
Climbster - 2nd β - 28/Aug/14 with Ian
Tough 1st lead! Looked much easier from the ground, if you get a rest lace it with gear!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/14 with Matt
Far Peak Climbing - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/14
First lead of the day, definitely should have warmed up first. Fantastic bridging and overhanging face climbing up the groove. The gear is fiddly and hard to place without getting too pumped. I ended up running it out big time at the crux, only thing stopping a potential ground fall was a green dragon cam in a slot just before the crux. 3 stars from me, and borderline E1. Loved it!....Read up on the history of this route and apparantly several people have died and multiple people injured on it. Eek.
jsmcfarland - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14 with Max
Fatclimber - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Jimbo
youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Steve
Mike W - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14
Legs - 2nd β - 03/Aug/14 with Mike
Hidden - 27/Jul/14
Neil - Lead - 16/Jul/14
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/14 with Neil, Paul
Andrew171 - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14 with gemma smallman
Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/14
AngelaC - 2nd - 24/Jun/14 with Jeremy
hotfeet - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Jonathan G
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/14 with Steve Shenton
SJS - 2nd - 21/Jun/14 with Nick
pad-rat - Lead - 17/Jun/14 with tom
Pleased to have come back to get this clean - last time got pumped and rested on gear.
leigh - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/14 with Ali
Jamie Skelton - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Nicky Brierley
08nbrierley - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with jamie
felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Neil
pasbury - 2014
Good climbing and not as hard as I expected...though that's not to say it's easy. Care needed with loose rock, and you've got to work for good gear a bit.
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with James Slater
I have put this off for ages, its reputation precedes it! I can see why people have gotten into trouble in the past, but if your a confident HVS leader it isnt too bad, care needed with the rock and the gear!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Dan Lane
simonsclimbing - 2nd O/S - 29/Dec/13
deano - Lead - 29/Sep/13 with Ryan stokes
Budge - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Janet Vince, Mike Oates
Climbed placing gear as if on lead. Not so hard climbing but a few tricky gear placements at half height. Nice enough route with a little polish.
luke glaister - TR rpt - 03/Sep/13 with casey johns
Good to get this climb in enjoyed the moves but struggled stripping the gear! "Even on top rope"
casey johns - TR O/S - 03/Sep/13 with luke glaister
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13
jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Arul
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/13
Stickle Tarn - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13
wilkinscl - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Edward shelly
morpcat - 2nd - 10/Aug/13 with wilkinscl
Not as hard as anticipated. I d take a star of as well.
Fred_Richard - Lead - 01/Aug/13 with terry
Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/13
Mike Hood - Lead - 09/Jul/13
winter hill1 - Lead - Jul/13
will_benfold - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Cameron
Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/13
Surprisingly tricky to move with the relatively poor hand holds
cameron_hall - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Will Benfold
Glad I wasn't put off this - great climbing and good gear, though no pushover.
mes32 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Aileen
Great climbing, and a good line. Top end HVS
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Emily
magicdougie - Lead - 02/Jun/13
matthew_henson - Lead - 01/Jun/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13
luke glaister - TR rpt - 07/May/13 with mr shunt
Top rope solo. Strenuous.
JamesColeman - TR O/S - May/13
Hidden - TR - 21/Apr/13
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/13 with Debbie
debbie roberts - 2nd - 08/Apr/13 with Marti999
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13
cymjt - 2013
MJAS82 - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/12
Trad limestone, plenty of doubt. Video here: http://youtu.be/tqxWDL2Eti4
caradoc - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with nick yapp
Fell after 8 ish m. Had a chill then reattacked
jcasey2436 - Lead dog - 09/Aug/12 with Chris fletch
Ali.B - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with PeterRobers
petellis - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/12 with Sloth
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12
kate tarrant - 2nd O/S - Apr/12
Great fun bridging, shame it was short lived.
riddle - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12
adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/12
Definately a lot more accurate than "a right carry on" Fit the HVS grade perfectly with some taxing moves over the slight bulge, definately take care between 8-10 metres, had to leave early after Andy's gear popped and we escaped luckily with just a broken thumb.
Fantastic climbing up the groove.
Jughead - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Andy Macrae
chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12
theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Chris Allan
A great climb. good gear and nice exposed moves at hight. used a shunt and will lead this with my mate when he's out next.
luke glaister - TR O/S - 16/Feb/12 with mr shunt
alan moore - 2012
Tony Kartawick - 2012
tomhill#1 - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11
Goose4 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Chris Ince
rd20 - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11 with Martin
smolders - 2nd - 08/Oct/11 with Robert D
Anthony Dixon - Lead - 27/Aug/11
rjshade - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Kai-ting Chuang, Gabriel Rosser
This was way too hard for me, and I only climbed it because we misread the guidebook and thought it was a different route (VD)! Very scary, with few opportunities for protection and lots of optimistic fumbling to place a nut. But then I was quite new to trad climbing, so this wasn't an ideal route to choose!
gaberosser - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Robbie Shade
JamesRich - 2nd - 11/Aug/11 with Tony Penning
possibly the scariest thing i've on sighted....love that feeling ***
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with gareth brading
gb05 - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Paul Southgate
Great route. Not that serious you just have to be clever with your gear. You can climb up to just before the crux , place a good cam and then drop down and bridge in the groove. Really enjoyed it.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Sam (Cousin)
Thought the gear was OK and the climbing fine for the grade.
The Ivanator - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Stewart
panda70 - 2nd - Aug/11
psronan - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11
Have some history with this route so quite nervous beforehand but 'put it to bed'
Jon Didymus - Lead β - 26/Jun/11 with Ra
Bex_M - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Duncan Dunbar
This is only the second time i have led this scince i decked out on it from about 40ft up back when I started climbing, still nervous through the crux but this was nowhere near as bad as I remember! worth the effort but i think its still closer to E1 than HVS!
SamStokes - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/11 with Emily Stokes
SamStokes - TR rpt - 03/Jun/11 with Mr Mini-Traxion
Ian JL - Lead O/S - 29/May/11
daveaubrey - 2nd O/S - May/11
Awesome route!! Not sure why such a bad reputation as there is so much gear and most of it is bomber. A little loose in parts but really enjoyable climbing. Should be 3 stars.
dean79 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Marc Lloyd
marclloyd77 - 2nd - 29/Apr/11 with Dean Bucknall
sdrawkcabeoj - 10/Apr/11 with Sunil Manchanda, Ken Priest
petegruf - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with charles m
Had to rest on gear in middle as found it pretty tough! But made it to the top.
leigh - Lead dog - 09/Apr/11 with Sara
cem - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Peter Murphy, John Evans
phil lead, sparse gear, lovely midsection of crack thrusting
jpmole - 2nd - 20/Mar/11
Seconded Andy on this a year or so ago. Went OK, found a couple of tricky moves low down then didn't even notice the bit higher up that I was expecting to to be tricky.
monsteratt - Lead rpt - 30/Jan/11 with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster - 2nd - 30/Jan/11 with monty
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011
Hidden - AltLd - 2011
Hidden - 2nd - 30/Oct/10
The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/10 with bpmclimb
Still doesn't seem that serious a route to me. Middle of the grade and well-protected (as long as you actually bother to put the gear in). Did Mockingbird HVS 4c (VS 4c on UKC) afterwards - much more committing and serious than The Russian IMO.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/10 with Ashley, Mark
ElvisLeg - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Brian Mullen
Lev - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Emma Ross
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10
AJH - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Rob
Absolutely amazing climb. Worth waiting four years for. I found its not as hard as the reputation its given. Worth doing even if HVS 5a is your upper limit as long as you can place gear well. (i used link cams, Great panic gear)
coupy - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10
Finally I have climbed the infamous Russian.Quite strenuous and sustained with a fair bit of polish. Fell off the crux and rested on the rope but got back on and managed to finish unaided. Very satisfying but wouldn't feel confident leading here at the moment especially remembering that someone has died on this route.Someone's nut was firmly wedged in the crack. Looks like they took a solid fall on it.Will definitely climb it again.
Dassie - TR RP - 10/Jul/10 with Self belay with shunt
tom169 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Pawel
raku - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Tom Mulier
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/10
first climb of the day, scared the crap out of me, puched myself too hard, tried to reach the piton about mid way, bottled it to save for another day...uuuuummm look easier than you think, be careful
snowy white - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Lucy
Colin got half way up - then retreated but left gear - climbed up and did the top half with some rests - a fierce route!
evhall - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with colin
Disco leg is all I can say. Ace route, was a bit pumpy and great if you enjoy bridging. Was a great day, warm, rock perfect, but if anything a bit humid, so chalk can in handy. Didn't use any cams, might be helpful though not a good ditch. Smaller hexes may be useful, also not a good ditch. So I found the middle section a bit exposed. I ended up finishing the route, then climbing another 30-30 feet, for the fun. Best advice is to just keep climbing, work hard, place gear and enjoy yourself.
SmithyXD - Lead O/S - 20/May/10
jon clayton - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with simon pinnell
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with J Robinson
ig248 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10
breed - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10
Nicky Hill - Lead O/S - 2010
Hidden - 2010
TP - Lead - 2010
Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/09 with Rebecca Hayes
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/09
Hidden - TR - 02/Aug/09
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Andy Abe
Hidden - TR dog - Aug/09
greasemonkey_04 - TR O/S - Aug/09
With Pete Williams
Mark Wyndham Brightwell - TR - 15/Jul/09
gdb4060 - Lead - 05/Jul/09 with Rick Sewards
Rained had to ab off nest of micro nuts at 3/4 as it was getting slippy. next time more cams for the top section.
Bobbyonrock - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/09 with Sparkles
A fun but difficult angled corner. Lots of bridging so my calf muscles (and all the rest) were screaming at the top. The top of my grade at the moment.
Mark_RMC - Lead - 13/Jun/09 with Michelle
Paul Robertson - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/09 with Gareth
Harder than it looks, as it kicks out a bit. Good though.
DorsetGareth - Lead - 11/Jun/09 with Paul Robertson
psronan - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/09
Great climb - This was one I had on my wish list for a long time and thoroughly enjoyed it when I got going. Described as a good bridge that petters out - but there are other holds to be had
pedropierre - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Rob the Doc
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09
tobyb - Lead O/S - 02/May/09
DannyK - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/09 with pep
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/09
clean at last!!
dja - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/09 with Andy Smith
Seemed a pretty straightforward corner crack line. VS with a bad reputation?
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/09 with Jon Thompson
jon thompson27 - Mar/09 with Alex Thompson
summo - 2009
Shweet route, felt sustained
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 2009
A solid effort from the barn owl...
Bobcat5060 - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/08 with Barney Ashton
guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/08
Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/08 with Guy Percival
Lewis Storey - 2nd - 21/Sep/08 with JH
kev_george - TR dnf - 13/Sep/08
chedder - 2nd - 12/Sep/08 with andy woolston
dja - Lead dog - 21/Jul/08 with Matt Ling
matt ling - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/08 with dja
monkeyjumper - Lead - Jul/08
tom - Lead - 29/Jun/08
dja - Lead dog - 24/Jun/08 with Ken Priest
beccak - TR dog - May/08 with Tony Penning
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/08 with Thomas
Felt really different on second, pretty steady at the grade with lots of footholds. Great route.
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 02/Mar/08 with Bismarck
Rupey - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08 with Thomas
deklan - 2nd - Feb/08
committed climbing, hard to resist going higher before putting in gear. Glad I did, took a bit of a wipper onto a good cam. sprained ankle, lucky.
tbailey9 - Lead dog - 2008 with willam
Hidden - 2008
Hidden - 2008
strapless - 2008
Very pleased with this lead. I had seen someone deck out from it 24 years ago and had been wary ever since. A very good route. The protection is adequate but never brilliant in my opinion. You need to be competent at fiddling in small wires while under pressure. There is a temptation to go higher in search of better gear which is to be resisted. Many have decked when tempted to do this and there has been at least one fatality. I would have no argument with E1 5a.
poey50 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Rowan15
Hidden - Sep/07
Circus - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Lou
tweedcore - TR - Aug/07 with Jam/Nath/Toby
Hjort - Lead dnf - Jul/07 with Nath Wells, Owen Tweedie, Jam Mortimer
Dunx - Lead RP - 26/Jun/07 with John
Nice route. Lots of bomber nut placements - but make sure you put plenty in as as you go along as there have been a few nasty accidents on this route (the gear isn't tricky like the route's reputation would suggest though). And yank them hard to seat them properly!
Quite sustained - made the calf muscles hurt! The rock reminded me of a corner climb I did in the Dolomites.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Weilin Wang
Scary as fuck
Crinkle - Lead dnf - Jun/07 with James Mortimer, Toby Vye, Owen Tweedie
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 28/May/07 with plaz
plaz - 2nd - 28/May/07
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/07 with Clare
Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/07
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - Mar/07 with Mirek
pumped! and fell will finnish oneday
Adam Humphreys - Lead dnf - 18/Feb/07 with Dunx
Andrew1 - Lead - 04/Feb/07 with Andy Lewington
djim69bob - 2007
Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/06
Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/06
leigh - 2nd - Aug/06 with Ed
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/06
BruceW - Lead dog - 29/Jul/06 with Becca, Nick, Jo
RandomHero - 2nd - 04/Jun/06
Tricky mid section - not much to put your feet on, and a little polished in places. Nice comfortable finish at end.
NCorbett - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Dave Pendleton
cas54321 - 2nd - 02/Jun/06 with Mike
mikelaing - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Carolyn
Nice crack no problem as a morning climb 7am start after bivving during the height of the summer - sure we could hear wild boar though
jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with simon mayell
Danhan - Lead - 28/May/06 with Nick
Hidden - May/06
gripped01 - 2nd O/S - May/06 with Jim Jarvis
dan gibson - 2006
Bern - 2006
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 2006
didn't get very far... got too scared! top roped to retrieve gear.... will crack it this summer!
djim69bob - Lead dnf - 2006
Phil PBC - 2006
rhysjones932 - 12/Aug/05
psronan - Lead - 01/Aug/05
Marvino - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Blackie
mattf77 - Lead - Jul/05
upontop - TR - Jun/05 with Chris
petellis - 2nd O/S - Apr/05 with Cleric James Koran
Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Clare Wolstenholme
Hidden - 2nd - Apr/05
Possibly my first HVS - surprised I lived!
kenneM - Lead - Mar/05 with Moony
Dave Toseland - 2005
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/04
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/04
Hidden - 2004
Digger - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/03 with James Latham
lithos - Lead O/S - Aug/03
Mark Collins - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/03 with Andrew Primrose
first HVS, VERY POLISHED
MikeC59 - Lead - 11/May/03
Boxy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/03
mikej - TR - 22/Mar/03 with Nick Salmon
markysums - Lead - 2003
tomkhoward - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Ian Baker
Andy Fielding - 2nd - 28/Sep/02 with Paul Tucker
Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Sep/02
Little B - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/02
Mark Salter - Lead - 28/Jun/02
MikeC59 - 2nd - 03/Jun/02
cem - 2nd - 14/Apr/02 with Graham Dolman
Dry day. Scared myself!
verticalsport - 2nd - 05/Aug/01 with Nick
petekeron - Lead O/S - 2001
Hidden - 2nd - Sep/00
Jason Gotel - TR - Jul/00 with Tim Weekes
Scotsken - 2000
Cailean Harker - Lead - 2000
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/99
MartinN - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/99
liabilityliz - Lead - Jul/98 with Mark Trepte
Brian Rodgers - 1998
ewjudge - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/97 with OUOTC
Justin Tracey - 1997 with Dave Thorne
Roped solo using upside-down shunt and lots of adrenaline.
Nigel Coe - Lead - 1997
mikej - Lead - 18/Jul/96 with R
Tim Bateman - Lead - 05/May/96
mikej - Lead - 04/Jul/95 with Simon Chapman
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 1995
Hidden - Lead - 1995
Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/94
Felt like a real sandbag at VS.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Jul/94 with Debbie Wilkinson
Seductive sandbag. May before (1993) I belayed a leader who fell off from 3/4 height and decked on rope stretch. Fracture to spine but he walked away. I went to A/E with severe rope burn!
Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 01/May/94 with Marcus
Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/94
Climbed when it was still a VS.
agagsgrot - 2nd O/S - Oct/93 with Pete
Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/93
Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/93 with JT
Hidden - Lead - Apr/93
Guy - 1992
1st climb in England and tough going
Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/91 with Lewis
mark-abz - 2nd - 27/May/90 with Ian D
strapless - Lead - 1990 with Ju
Hidden - Lead - 1990
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/89
Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/89
nigehughes - Lead - May/89 with Steve Magee
mikej - 2nd - 19/Sep/88 with Robert Smith
Iain Thow - TR - 14/Apr/88 with Steve Ball, Phil Moorey
finally....after several attempts
ill_bill - 2nd - Apr/88 with Niall McHugh
mikej - Lead - 23/Sep/87 with Pete Rowbottom
Got rained off so departed for a recce of Huntsham.
mikej - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/87 with Robert Smith
1st vs lead, and now its a hvs/E1
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - Sep/87
DDDD - AltLd - 1986
Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 1986
RichardMc - Lead - 26/May/85 with Jon Clifford-Smith
tapley - Lead - 04/May/85
leland stamper - 2nd O/S - Feb/85 with Pete Johnson?
babymoac - 1985
jcw - 1985 with Simon Donowho
Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/84