UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction applies to Central and Right-Hand Buttresses.

The Left-Hand Buttress is not restricted, but please only use the descent on the left side of the crag (looking in) and whilst approaching, move quickly and quietly until under the LH Buttress to avoid disturbing the birds.

Please report any observations of nesting ravens on the crag to access@thebmc.co.uk

Rockfax Description
The blank leaning wall is a merciless exercise combining fierce climbing with very poor gear. Follow Phoenix in Obsidian to the large ledge and move left to below the centre of the wall. Climb the ferocious wall left of a low overlap passing 3 poor pegs to the diagonal break. Move right and up to a sloping ledge, before taking the finishing corner of Phoenix in Obsidian to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A desperate pitch up the frightening black wall in the middle of the buttress. F8a+ climbing with a fixed RP and poor blade peg.

Dave Birkett 1992.

Ticklists

Hardest routes in Britain , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Comprehensive E9+

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High E10
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High E9
Mid E9
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High 7a
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High 6c
Mid 6c
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Route of Interest
Talbot Horizon

Grade: E9 6c ***
(Scafell East Buttress)

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