Bridge the cleft then traverse the break leftwards, passing the arete with difficulty to an easier finish over the bulge on the left. © Rockfax
Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|daniel heaton||20/Jun||TR dog||
|dobby 200||20/Jun||TR O/S|
|adam carless||?/May/13||Lead RP||
Fell off trying some silly thrown heel hook the first time. Started again with a more sensible approach, but still needed some work to get round the arete.
After a lunch break examining the route we plucked up the courage to try it. Both me and Dan had a go at the crux move without having placed any protection because of a combination of rope drag and not wanting to get pumped. On my second attempt I managed to get over the crux, and placed the one piece of protection in the whole second half of the climb. Exhilarating and fun, I was amazed it didn't get any stars in Peak SE.
Tried earlier in the day and greased off, went back at the end of the day when it had cooled down and felt steady, didn't realise that bridging was 'in' either. I had done the finish previously when soloing around on the wall. I think a tricky hvs is more suitable although my guidebook has it down as an E1.
|Tom Seccombe||13/Mar/12||2nd O/S|
|Rowan Mitchell||06/Nov/11||Lead dog|
Alex and Jenny
|andrew hammond||01/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
|jack adams||01/Oct/11||Lead rpt|
E1?.. maybe VS
|Joe Costello||02/Oct/10||Solo O/S||
|Jack Loftus||07/Jun/10||Lead RP|
HVS 5b... Hard! Decked out at the end of the traverse 1st time round, finished it though the next time.
Its HVS in my guide by my god it was hard, Finished up 'oarsman'? I would never have made it without knowing where the all important jug was!! E1 is more suitabe...?
|Andrew Barker||??/2006||Solo β||
Curly Ben Harding
Brilliant route, deserves more praise. I disagree somewhat with the comments in the Chatsworth guidebook and its ommision from PGE. Contrived? The traverse out of the V cleft and onto the slab are lovely technical moves.
|Gary Coggon||24/Apr/88||Lead O/S||
Belayed but not seconded by Ian Lefevre.