Rockfax Description
Bridge the cleft then traverse the break leftwards, passing the arete with difficulty to an easier finish over the bulge on the left. © Rockfax

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
DavidPC 15/Jul Solo O/S
Jamie Lilley
daniel heaton 20/Jun TR dog
dobby 200 20/Jun TR O/S
dominic lee 06/Jun Solo
Eddie1234 02/Dec/14 Lead
James Martin
shaky2 16/Feb/14 2nd
Matt c
nick ferro 01/Sep/13 -
adam carless ?/May/13 Lead RP

Fell off trying some silly thrown heel hook the first time. Started again with a more sensible approach, but still needed some work to get round the arete.

Andy Sheridan
Hidden 08/Apr/13 2nd RP
Eagertom 08/Apr/13 Lead RP

After a lunch break examining the route we plucked up the courage to try it. Both me and Dan had a go at the crux move without having placed any protection because of a combination of rope drag and not wanting to get pumped. On my second attempt I managed to get over the crux, and placed the one piece of protection in the whole second half of the climb. Exhilarating and fun, I was amazed it didn't get any stars in Peak SE.

Hidden 30/Nov/12 2nd β
deacondeacon 09/Oct/12 Lead

Tried earlier in the day and greased off, went back at the end of the day when it had cooled down and felt steady, didn't realise that bridging was 'in' either. I had done the finish previously when soloing around on the wall. I think a tricky hvs is more suitable although my guidebook has it down as an E1.

Charley17 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
shaky2 29/May/12 Lead
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd dog
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead
Tom Seccombe 13/Mar/12 2nd O/S
kingholmesy ??/2012 Solo O/S
Rowan Mitchell 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
Stefan_Morris 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Alex and Jenny
andrew hammond 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jack adams 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S

E1?.. maybe VS

Marti999 05/Aug/11 Solo O/S
disturbed_one51 24/Apr/11 Solo
John Bish 16/Apr/11 2nd
joese7en ??/2011 Sent O/S
Joe Costello 02/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Ellie, Matt
Gazleah ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/10 2nd
Jack Loftus 07/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead β
paul__in_sheffield 11/Apr/10 Solo
BicepAndrews 13/Mar/10 Lead RP
James Maddison
Hidden ??/2010 Lead dog
BicepAndrews 12/Apr/09 Lead dog
Steve Swan
JCB42 21/Mar/09 Lead RP

HVS 5b... Hard! Decked out at the end of the traverse 1st time round, finished it though the next time.

Jack Brougham
Boy ?/Jan/09 -
Sandy Holford 12/Oct/08 TR
vvanhinsbergh 02/Jun/08 TR β

Its HVS in my guide by my god it was hard, Finished up 'oarsman'? I would never have made it without knowing where the all important jug was!! E1 is more suitabe...?

Mike Swinn
russonly 07/May/08 2nd O/S

Good route!

btc 05/Apr/08 2nd
floris b
Andrew Barker ??/2006 Solo β

Tricky traverse.

Curly Ben Harding
samwelli 24/Dec/05 Lead dog

Brilliant route, deserves more praise. I disagree somewhat with the comments in the Chatsworth guidebook and its ommision from PGE. Contrived? The traverse out of the V cleft and onto the slab are lovely technical moves.

Sankey 24/Dec/05 2nd dog
Scottish78 03/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 2nd
marcoleptic ??/2000 2nd
Hidden 16/Oct/99 TR
craig d ??/1999 -
Chris Ellis 21/Aug/98 Lead
Rachel Nicolson
Hidden ?/Oct/97 2nd
Roget 01/Mar/97 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
Hidden 25/Jun/95 2nd
goi.ashmore 08/Oct/88 Solo RP

Ground up

Andy Say 08/Oct/88 Solo
Gary Coggon 24/Apr/88 Lead O/S

Belayed but not seconded by Ian Lefevre.

Hidden 10/May/85 Lead
mark-abz 02/Jun/82 TR
Mark Kemball 07/Oct/78 Solo
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 8
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set