Derbyshire > Birchen Edge >
 
Hangover HVS 5b

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12m. Bridge the cleft then traverse the break leftwards, passing the arete with difficulty. Finish as for Oarsman, or more directly. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

shaky2 - 2nd - 16/Feb/14 with Matt c

nick ferro - 01/Sep/13 with Sonam Norbu

Hidden - 2nd RP - 08/Apr/13

After a lunch break examining the route we plucked up the courage to try it. Both me and Dan had a go at the crux move without having placed any protection because of a combination of rope drag and not wanting to get pumped. On my second attempt I managed to get over the crux, and placed the one piece of protection in the whole second half of the climb. Exhilarating and fun, I was amazed it didn't get any stars in Peak SE.
Eagertom - Lead RP - 08/Apr/13 with Dan Murray

sazmaz - 2nd β - 30/Nov/12 with Frank Ramsden

Tried earlier in the day and greased off, went back at the end of the day when it had cooled down and felt steady, didn't realise that bridging was 'in' either. I had done the finish previously when soloing around on the wall. I think a tricky hvs is more suitable although my guidebook has it down as an E1.
deacondeacon - Lead - 09/Oct/12

Charley17 - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/12

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/12

shaky2 - Lead - 29/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/May/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 08/May/12

Tom Seccombe - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/12 with tim exley

kingholmesy - Solo O/S - 2012

Rowan Mitchell - Lead dog - 06/Nov/11

Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Alex and Jenny

andrew hammond - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with jack adams

jack adams - Lead rpt - 01/Oct/11 with andy

E1?.. maybe VS
Gazleah - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/11 with serge

Marti999 - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/11

disturbed_one51 - Solo - 24/Apr/11

John Bish - 2nd - 16/Apr/11

joese7en - Sent O/S - 2011

Joe Costello - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Ellie, Matt

Gazleah - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with dprctr

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/10

Jack Loftus - Lead RP - 07/Jun/10 with Ady

Hidden - Lead β - Jun/10

paul__in_sheffield - Solo - 11/Apr/10 with Noodle

BicepAndrews - Lead RP - 13/Mar/10 with James Maddison

Hidden - Lead dog - 2010

BicepAndrews - Lead dog - 12/Apr/09 with Steve Swan

HVS 5b... Hard! Decked out at the end of the traverse 1st time round, finished it though the next time.
JCB42 - Lead RP - 21/Mar/09 with Jack Brougham

Boy - Jan/09

Sandy Holford - TR - 12/Oct/08

Its HVS in my guide by my god it was hard, Finished up 'oarsman'? I would never have made it without knowing where the all important jug was!! E1 is more suitabe...?
vvanhinsbergh - TR β - 02/Jun/08 with Mike Swinn

Good route!
russonly - 2nd O/S - 07/May/08 with AndyN

btc - 2nd - 05/Apr/08 with floris b

Tricky traverse.
Andrew Barker - Solo β - 2006 with Curly Ben Harding

Brilliant route, deserves more praise. I disagree somewhat with the comments in the Chatsworth guidebook and its ommision from PGE. Contrived? The traverse out of the V cleft and onto the slab are lovely technical moves.
samwelli - Lead dog - 24/Dec/05 with Steve Ebbens

Sankey - 2nd dog - 24/Dec/05 with Sam

Scottish78 - Lead O/S - 03/May/05

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - May/01

marcoleptic - 2nd - 2000 with Tommo

Hidden - TR - 16/Oct/99

craig d - 1999

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/98 with Rachel Nicolson

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/97

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/97

Hidden - 1996

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/95

Ground up
goi.ashmore - Solo RP - 08/Oct/88

Andy Say - Solo - 08/Oct/88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/88

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/85

mark-abz - TR - 02/Jun/82

Mark Kemball - Solo - 07/Oct/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Fraser hill-casey, npanderson, Aaron Hauptmann

Voting
Total votes cast 19
hard E10 of 7
E14 of 7
easy E10 of 7
hard HVS3 of 7
HVS0 of 7
easy HVS0 of 7
hard VS0 of 7
VS0 of 7
easy VS0 of 7
hard 5c0 of 8
5c0 of 8
easy 5c0 of 8
hard 5b1 of 8
5b6 of 8
easy 5b1 of 8
hard 5a0 of 8
5a0 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
3 Stars0 of 4
2 Stars3 of 4
1 Star1 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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Style of ascent

Soloed12 of 57 (21.1%)
Lead22 of 57 (38.6%)
Followed14 of 57 (24.6%)
Toproped4 of 57 (7.0%)
Bouldered1 of 57 (1.8%)
Unknown4 of 57 (7.0%)

'Climbed'23 of 57 (40.4%)
clean O/S16 of 57 (28.1%)
clean β4 of 57 (7.0%)
clean rpt1 of 57 (1.8%)
clean RP6 of 57 (10.5%)
dogged7 of 57 (12.3%)