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The Grooves*** E1 5b

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[The Great Buttress, top pitch where it joins The Grooves, 2 kb]Simply the best E1 in Wales? 1) 5b, 45m. Climb easily up to the roof then gain the groove. Follow this to a ledge then climb the wall above and left to a large ledge. 2) 5b, 40m. Follow the continuation groove above to a ledge. A wall leads to another ledge. 3) 5b, 35m. Gain a left slanting ledge above and traverse left to the second groove. Follow this to gain easier ground leading to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!.

Photo: The Great Buttress, top pitch where it joins The Grooves © John Blower
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 229 logbooks, and on 72 wishlists.

Fantastic!
samjames91 - AltLd O/S - 02/May/13 with Rafe Osborne

The best! Tried the overhanging arete but was pretty goosed by that point and the exposure blew my mind! Props to Sam for being a true gentleman on this one and giving us the final pitch as well.
UncleMephisto - AltLd O/S - 02/May/13 with Sam Wainwright

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

Very good ... have to do again with friction turned on! Rather green. One silly slip extending gear ... the lichen got me! E2 alternate finish.
Dizz - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with megan, David B

Longsufferingropeholder - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/12

jamesturnbull - AltLd - Aug/12 with aiden

Top quality climb! It started raining on the P3, which made the "easy" ground at the top not so easy.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Pete Atkinson

Led P2 and finished up overhanging arete. Amazing.
McGuinness - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with Dafydd

Dafydd Llywelyn - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with Sion McGuinnes

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 27/May/12

Pitch 2
Lenny - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd - May/12

efrance24234 - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Captain Gear - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

Led p1 & finished up The Overhanging Arête.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2012 with OffshoreAndy

Hidden - 2012

JonG - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Cant remember the date. I did 1st and 2nd pitch. It was very wet. I remember on the 1st pitch, water from the holds running down my arms in my sleeves as far as my elbows.
Adam Potter - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Sari

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - 2012

EagerAndy - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Led p1 and p3, awesome mountain route. Full on from start to finish. Pitch 2 felt soild for 5b tho...
Teddys15 - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Ben Reinsch

Amazing route, led P2 :D
Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Noodles

Led pitch 2. Brilliant route. Pitch 2 sustained and hard. Pitch 3 awesome.
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Courty

Led P1 and P3
M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with ian sutcliffe

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/11

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with GF

Finished up hanging arete! Amazing
al99 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Andrew Bitmead

2nd pitch was running with water which made climbing difficult, but the exposure on the 3rd pitch was well worth all the effort - superb!
deejmonkey - Lead - 26/Jun/11 with Tom

tomparrott - 2nd - 26/Jun/11 with DJ

olly_davey - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/11

probably my best multi pitch. i did 2nd pitch which was for sure the hardest of the 3. every pitch was very sustained fun :)
vertically_challenged - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11

ben360 - Jun/11

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Craig w, Buddle

rockjedi - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Mike, Mark Dempsey

Led pitches 2 & 3. Good but certainly not the best E1 in Wales
cem - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Dave Amos

Well worth its uber-classic status
david morse - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with lole

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 20/Apr/11 with Dad

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/11 with dan ely

Led 2nd pitch, sustained and difficult jamming. Great though. finished up overhanging arete.
conorcussell - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/11

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/11 with tim

I tried to lead p2, which is nails! Then backed off, Mike lead it but fell and the I fell trying to get the nut which heald the fall. Couldn't get it out at all. Other 2 pitches clean. I reckon p2 is more like 5c than 5b.
Ceridwen - 2nd - 18/Apr/11 with Uber Mike

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

JEP - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

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Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Lead pitch 2. Wet, slimy and scary, but a GREAT day out!
Sari Nevala - AltLd - 26/Sep/10 with Adam

Led P2. Superb climb.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Graeme Hammond

really something special, great rock/gear/belays and probably almost perfect conditions. 3 equally amazing pitches!! led pitches 1 & 3
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Jim

mikeyjbs - AltLd β - 26/Jun/10

Alex T (RAFMA) - AltLd - 17/Jun/10

Alex T (RAFMA) - AltLd - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 16/Jun/10

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Marti

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10

luke1986 - AltLd O/S - Jun/10

Ed Feldman - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10

Ace!! Pitch 2 is brilliant.
Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with C Godfrey

Cracking route, sustained, great position.
DuncanR - AltLd - 11/Apr/10 with Scott Mckenzie

Hidden - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Dave Rumney - 2010 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 2010

soph - 2010

led first and last pitches tom took a bit if a fall on the second pitch at the crux P2 proper hard if u dont like jamming! i also had to rest on the rope on crux pitch to remove a stuck cam
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd dog - 17/Oct/09 with tom parker

Greasy, sustained, exposed, amazing! fell off the crux on pitch 2 due to grease but got up it next go.
Tomprusk - AltLd dog - 17/Oct/09 with Duncan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09

Wet wet wet!
Adam Booth - 12/Sep/09 with Roel

P1,P2,P3 ! knackered at top, well protected but sustained esp P2.
lithos - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with paul cookson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Epic. Super classic (climbed with E2 arete finish). Pitch 2 is amazingespecially in trainers. Whillans and Brown are demi-gods.
Cassidy - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Robin, Jules, Graham, Will

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Got to be one of the best route of it`s grade i`ve done ! Very satisfying indeed !
mr mills - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Katy F

Lead all pitches, fantastic route with 3 varied pitches, amazing exposure on final pitch.
loundsy - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with bex

missed penultimate pitch and opted for overhanging arete
Andrew.Davies - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/08 with Mr Fingers

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd dog - Jun/08

climbed as a three
barni - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/08 with Liam fleming

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Nicos - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with rich mansfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 10/Aug/07 with Mark Stevenson

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Haggis Harris

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/07

Led pitch 2
OffshoreAndy - AltLd - 05/Jun/07 with UKC Dan

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/07

Done via hanging arête
sebrider - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Roby Rudolf

brilliant
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 04/May/07 with rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/06

chris j - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jul/06

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/06 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - AltLd - May/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Mike Grant

with Alys and sion cold may bh should of been on the S side!
alasdair19 - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/03

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 2003

andyblain - Lead O/S - Jul/01

Hidden - Aug/00

Mark Riley - AltLd - Jul/00 with Stuart Greenall

WB - AltLd - 09/May/00 with Paul

bullybones - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

worthwhile
dickypips - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/99 with john richards

Neil Ireson - AltLd - 1999 with Pete M

ian caton - AltLd - 1998 with Andy

phardman - 20/Jul/97

tlr - AltLd - 18/May/97 with Richard

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/96

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/96 with Roy Thomas

The best route on this side of the Pass. Very sustained at the grade!
Sean Kelly - Jun/96 with Keith Bolton

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/95 with Louise Pellett

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

richparry - 1995

Hidden - 1995

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Cowflinger - AltLd - 24/Jul/94 with John Williams

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/94 with chrisevans

surfbish - Lead O/S - May/90

philhilo - 1990

philhilo - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/89

fabulous!
Grezza - AltLd O/S - Aug/89

led 1st and 3rd pitches
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/89 with pete roberts

BigHairyIan - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/89 with Alan Lilley (Thug)

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/89

mark-abz - Lead - 18/Jun/88 with Phil R

Hidden - AltLd - 20/May/88

andy gittins - 1988

ChrisJD - AltLd - 05/Jul/87

Started up to crag at 5.30am after bivvying at road side.
eroica64 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/86 with John Graeme

led 1st and 3rd pitches
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/86 with steve ward

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Nigel Bond - Lead - 16/Jul/83 with Dave

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/82

I had seconded the route with the overhanging arete finish behind Pete Allison about 1965. Did with several partners since where I led all
David Smith - Lead - Aug/80 with John Robinson

babymoac - AltLd - 06/Jul/80 with MTW

Hammy - AltLd - 28/Apr/80 with Rob Lawson

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/79

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/79

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/79

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1979

Great.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1979 with Mike Wright

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1978

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/77

GeoffG - AltLd - 08/Jul/77 with tony bowker

GeoffG - AltLd - Jul/77 with tony bowker

Mike Owen - 27/Jun/76 with John Roberts

Hidden - 1976

Swung leads with Bill. I led 1, 3, and 4a, the Overhanging Arete
Falko - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/75 with Roger Edwards, Bill Briggs

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Tom V - AltLd - May/73 with Kev Graham

Tony Holdsworth - 01/Jan/70

Found the first bit getting into the groove the hardest, after that fairly straightforward. John worried about giving me protection on both pitch 2 and 3 so we escaped up Green Caterpillar. I led the slab pitch because John reckoned I was good on crap rock and grass.
oldmanofmow - 2nd - 28/Aug/64

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Voting
Total votes cast 115
hard E20 of 39
E20 of 39
easy E20 of 39
hard E121 of 39
E116 of 39
easy E12 of 39
hard HVS0 of 39
HVS0 of 39
easy HVS0 of 39
hard 5c0 of 40
5c0 of 40
easy 5c1 of 40
hard 5b10 of 40
5b28 of 40
easy 5b1 of 40
hard 5a0 of 40
5a0 of 40
easy 5a0 of 40
3 Stars36 of 36
2 Stars0 of 36
1 Star0 of 36
0 Stars0 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent

Lead36 of 229 (15.7%)
Followed9 of 229 (3.9%)
Alt Leads97 of 229 (42.4%)
Unknown87 of 229 (38.0%)

'Climbed'131 of 229 (57.2%)
clean O/S90 of 229 (39.3%)
clean β1 of 229 (0.4%)
clean rpt2 of 229 (0.9%)
dogged4 of 229 (1.7%)
dnf1 of 229 (0.4%)