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Gambit Climb** S

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[Doug Spence on Gambit Climb, 1 kb]99m, 5 pitches. One of the finest mountain VDiffs in the UK, The Gambit Climb has it all. Acres of exposure, superb moves, great rock and a crux at the end. What more could you ask for? The start of the route lies 5m left of a unique pocketed wall, around 60m right of Western Gully. 1) 23m. Climb a crack past a hanging flake for 3m and then move left. Move down and left to gain a slab at its left edge. Follow this slab to a corner-crack. Climb this to gain a ledge, then follow a continuation crack above to reach large ledges. 2) 17m. The line of least resistance leads up via a chimney to reach a large grassy ledge known as The Green Collar. 3) 15m. Traverse right to gain a short chimney. Climb this to the next ledge. 4) 15m. Move left along the ledge to the base of a chimney. Follow this to gain the top of the pinnacle on the left. Step right and follow the crack above to more ledges. 5) 15m. Above is a rightward sloping ledge that is followed to a square-cut corner. Climb this with difficulty via a thin crack to gain easy ground. © ROCKFAX
A very varied route on soud rock: an absolute classic! Llanberis's answer to Grooved Arete! Start at the foot of a 10ft/3m flake crack, 55yd/53mR or Western Gully and 15ft/5m L of a pocketed wall. 1. 75ft/23m. Climb the short flake until a step L, then down, lead to a traverse across a slab into a deep corner crack. Go up this to a good ledge. Continue up a short awkward crack to a large stance. 2. 55ft/17m. Traverse R to a shallow chimney and climb it to a grassy ledge. 3. 45ft/14m. A difficult traverse R leads to a short chimney which is taken to a good ledge. 4. 70ft/21m. Ascend the chimney at the back of the ledge to the top of the pinnacle. Hand traverse into an easy corner crack which leads to a scree-covered ledge - an excellent pitch. 5. 80ft/24m. Move R up a sloing grassy ledge to a R-angled corner with a thin crack. Climb this strnuously to the top.
J.M.A. Thomson, H.O. Jones, K.J.P. Orton 1910

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs.

Photo: Doug Spence on Gambit Climb © jhw
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This climb is in 155 logbooks, and on 48 wishlists.

BenLarby - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14 with Mike Burnett

oldmanofmow - 2014

lead pitch 2 and 4 big boot climbing
piersnewton - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/13 with Adam Smith, Olly Roberts

All pitches, big boots.
ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/13 with Piers Newton, Adam 'Buddy' Smith

very very very cold, fingers almost made me cry. Topped out on Snowdon, snow from approx 700m. Climbed all but final pitch in boots. Good day out in a very twisted way!
leeoftroy - Lead O/S - Nov/13

Tried climbing in the rain in big boots thinking it was VDiff, retreated from first pitch and climbed parsons nose instead.
Roch - AltLd - 05/Oct/13 with Gordon Henderson

Hidden - 28/Sep/13

shed_hed - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

dswansonlow - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/13 with Darren McMaster

Disappointing and tough... Thrutchy climbing up short steep walls linked by a mix of ledges. No real exposure or good positions. More like a much more difficult version of Bowfell Buttress than Grooved Arete. Parson's Nose is a much sweeter climb - Not sure why it gets 3 stars?
Tom Hutton - AltLd - 24/Sep/13 with Vincenam

Led 1st & 3rd pitches
John Roe - AltLd - 21/Sep/13 with Tom Hansford, Nathan Maxwell

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/13

fizzychewitt - Lead - 25/Aug/13 with MagsB

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/13

magsb - 2nd - 25/Aug/13 with Fizzychewitt

tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Mark Boden, Tom Boyle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13

Gareth T - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Haley

Skirted round a certain section that seemed a touch hard for 4a, partner got it first time though, argh!
poeter210 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with adrian voss

finished through the corner and very difficult for 4a. Partner and other climbers suggested it may be 5a!?
druss - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Peter Ocampo

Led P4+P5.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Stevo

lead Pitch 1,2,3 (as one massive 55 metre pitch and the final pitches also strung together by Kirill), Part of a bigger enchainment taking Western Slabs, Slow Ledge Climb, Main Wall,Gambit Climb and Crib Coch. Started at 7:30 back down to the car 19:15. A very good day :)
CurlyStevo - AltLd - Aug/13 with Kirill S

Alice P1+P2 together, logical to string these together. I lead P3+P4 - had to pitch as otherwise lots of rope drag. Alice had final corner pitch. Great route, fantastic position on the hill with alpine-esque rock, all big slings and extenders. Brilliant route and fun scramble back down the arete and gully.
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Alice du Preez

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13

Carried on to Crib Goch, then decended North Ridge of Crib Goch and past Dinas Mot.
dave657 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Alys

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13

Josiemc - 2nd - 04/Jul/13

Josiemc - AltLd - 04/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/13

Tarquin - Lead - 26/May/13 with Louise

Louvet - 2nd - 26/May/13 with Tarquin

Nice climb although the corner at the top, while easily avoidable was very hard for a serve
sheelba - AltLd - 19/May/13

lead P2 and 4
JasonV - AltLd - 19/May/13 with Sam

After the Direct Route and Slow Ledge, great day with good company.
jshields - AltLd - 20/Apr/13 with Andy Neath, Ed James

Danny Crump - Lead - 17/Nov/12 with Sarah Pentelow

Fantastic day out in glorious weather! Started up the wrong line but then realized the real start was further left. Should have known to follow the polish. I strung the first two pitches together, then Ruth did P3 and P4(best pitch!) with Jennifer leading the final tricky corner crack pitch. Finished by going up the ridge to Snowdon summit (along with the rest of the world) and had scones with cream and jam before descending to Llanberis. Awesome!
thecurlyone - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Jennifer Roberts, Ruth Bevan

asmith37 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Bex Leigh

Lead P1, P2, P3, P4. It started raining after P1. "Traverse on delicate holds" on wet rock in pouring rain was not a fun. Same for exit of P4. Did not do P5. Scrambled to the left to Parson's arete. Continued along Parson's arete, Crib y Ddysgl, summit of Snowdon, Pen-y-pass and down the road back to the car. Good 12.5 h day.
andrzej kierzek - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Tara

gw3285 - AltLd - 07/Jul/12

Struggled to find the start - description a bit vague in the guide book so had to do Parsons Nose instead, disappointed in the latest guide.
alexander the meerkat - Lead dnf - 25/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 20/May/12

Truan - 2nd - 05/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

Stewart Armstrong - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Truan Willis, Richard Spencer

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Oct/11

Lead 1st, 3rd and 5th pitch
colinthomson5 - 01/Oct/11 with eddie purcy-hughes, John Hillman

miles01 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

Brocken spectre at the top
Glyn - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Amy

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with Duncan

jonleighton - AltLd - 25/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jul/11

magik_bob - Lead - Jul/11

Hidden - Solo - Jul/11

Hidden - Solo - May/11

A couple of tricky moves on the 1st pitch, Excellent route, especially the 3rd pitch, finished by scrambling to the top and walked down to llanberis for some dinner at pete's eats
skittles - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Heather Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

Climbed with young Bomber, who made a grand job of it in the wind and the clag and the slime. Occasional breaks in the cloud showed the rest of Wales to be in sunshine! Probably a great climb in the dry, must go back some time. Abbed off the top. Done as two pairs following behind Dean and Martin - very little crooning. Had been assured by the chaps that it's a V Diff, can't comment on the grade or the stars as it was a bit of a dank slimefest but the chimney with hand traverse was bonzer.
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Bomber

much harder than hvd i thought
willoates - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/10 with lawrence

Lead all pitches.
MontyH - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

Good value, particularly the finish. Led Ps 1,3,4,5.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Ralph

George Ormerod - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Clare D, Clare W

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10

josh88 - 2nd - 18/Jun/10 with ian witt, Colin Macalindin

Led P1,P3 and P5. A great route in a fantastic setting, interesting rock and great weather. A real gem.
Noodles - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10 with Jill Reinsch

Jillybean - AltLd - 25/May/10 with Martyn

Briwi - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with phil gibb

LRB - 2nd - 22/May/10 with Mike Gray

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/10

cameron_hall - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Iona Naismith

will6459 - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10

Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 01/May/10 with Ian Ackerley

alancash100 - AltLd - 2010

alancash100 - AltLd - 2010

Led P2 and 4. Don't know whether it was just me being a bit crap, but there were a couple points on this route that felt harder than some of the VS's I've climbed this year. A darned good route though. Particularly enjoyed leading P4, with the exciting move from the top of the pinnacle!
CathS - AltLd - 13/Sep/09 with Paul Lucas

Led pitches 1, 3 and 5
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Cath Lmc

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/09

lead all pitches. lovelly climb
cooper leek - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with dawn

donkster - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with DaveNW

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/09

brilliant route. lead pitches 1,3 and 5. exciting final corner pitch
timofy - AltLd - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/09

Adderbury Climber - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with Al Randal

good route. got lost on the last pitch somehow... climbed to the right of the corner and went straight up the steep headwall through a small overhang. probably VS4b/c nice gear, but a little pumpy, recommended. named it "The big steaming idiots variation" after abuse i got from my partners, but it is probably part of another route.
adam06 - AltLd - 11/May/09 with Hilary Theaker and Sarah Lewington

really good route, apart from adam somehow missing the corner on the final pitch! Led P1 +3
hils theaker - AltLd - 11/May/09 with Sarah + Adam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/09

dmowens44 - 2009

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 29/Dec/08

RD P2, then off route - The Ring VS
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Patrick

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.
sara n - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with CS

I led P2 (easy broken chimney) and P4 (the good chimney pitch). Good mountaineering route
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/08

i started
tiga271 - AltLd - 15/Aug/08 with mark20

robo84 - AltLd - 27/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08

Did the 4th crux pitch
climbingxcat - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Brian and Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/08

Pitches 2,4
Sienna78 - Lead - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - Jun/08

tumbling wizard - Jun/08

Lead pitches 1,3 and 5
Ben Watts - AltLd O/S - 03/May/08 with Roger Lord

Lead every pitch, a good route with some fun moves. Walked to top of Snowden afterwards then back over Grib Goch
Pilch - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Graham and Ed

EdShep - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Pilch and Graham

Hidden - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 09/Dec/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/07

Gman - Solo O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/07

I lead pitches 1, 3 and 4
jimsrankin - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/07 with Mel

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Oct/06

top day out linked in with crib goch
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with michel schonewille

tomB - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/06 with John walton

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/06

Extended it into a full mountain day with a continuation along the main ridge of Crib Goch and down its north ridge back towards Nant Peris
Kaiser999 - AltLd - Sep/06 with Jeff

Duncan Hardy - Lead - 14/Aug/06 with Andrew Harrison

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Hillary Lawrenson

Hidden - Jul/06

Dave Wearing - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/06 with Julia Wilson, Mike Knight.

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

maria85 - AltLd - 18/Sep/05 with Steve

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Mark Catt, Dave Tait

Nicos - Solo O/S - 31/Aug/05 with solo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

ferdia - 2nd - 19/Jun/04 with Andrew Wielochowski

five - AltLd O/S - Jun/03 with AJ

Carmen led pitch 4, I led the rest. Finished up the arete then traversed towards Crib Goch and did Reade's Route
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 2002 with Carmen

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/01

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 30/May/98 with Stuart Magill

led p1&2
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 05/May/96 with Ian Makin

Ian Robertson - Lead - 23/Jul/94

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 05/Sep/91 with Joe

Led 2,3&5. Thought 1 & 3 deserved 4a & top pitch has to be 4b. Led it in superb sunset after Lorraine, Western Slabs & Main Wall. One of my best climbing days ever.
Iain Thow - AltLd - 12/Aug/91 with Rob Ivens

Epic lead by Agus on a bleak snowy day
babymoac - 2nd - 01/Dec/90 with Angus

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/88 with Debbie Wilkinson

started to rain halfway up
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/87 with ian nettleton

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/86

mikej - Lead - 27/Jun/79 with Tony Waite

Nigel Bond - Lead - 26/Jul/75 with Donald Workman

tapley - 2nd - 05/Apr/69 with Dave Hearnshaw

granitbahn - AltLd - 1969

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 61
hard HS0 of 23
HS1 of 23
easy HS6 of 23
hard S12 of 23
S3 of 23
easy S0 of 23
hard HVD1 of 23
HVD0 of 23
easy HVD0 of 23
3 Stars30 of 38
2 Stars8 of 38
1 Star0 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Soloed7 of 155 (4.5%)
Lead36 of 155 (23.2%)
Followed16 of 155 (10.3%)
Alt Leads83 of 155 (53.5%)
Unknown13 of 155 (8.4%)

'Climbed'81 of 155 (52.3%)
clean O/S71 of 155 (45.8%)
dogged1 of 155 (0.6%)
dnf2 of 155 (1.3%)