99m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the finest mountain routes in the UK, The Gambit Climb has it all. Acres of exposure, superb moves, great rock and a crux at the end. What more could you ask for? The start of the route lies 5m left of a unique pocketed wall, around 60m right of Western Gully.
1) 23m. Climb a crack past a hanging flake for 3m and then move left. Move down and left to gain a slab at its left edge. Follow this slab to a corner-crack. Climb this to gain a ledge, then follow a continuation crack above to reach large ledges.
2) 17m. The line of least resistance leads up via a chimney to reach a large grassy ledge known as The Green Collar.
3) 15m. Traverse right to gain a short chimney. Climb this to the next ledge.
4) 15m. Move left along the ledge to the base of a chimney. Follow this to gain the top of the pinnacle on the left. Step right and follow the crack above to more ledges.
5) 15m. Above is a rightward-sloping ledge that is followed to a square-cut corner. Climb this with difficulty via a thin crack to gain easy ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very varied route on soud rock: an absolute classic!
Llanberis's answer to Grooved Arete! Start at the foot of a 10ft/3m flake crack, 55yd/53mR or Western Gully and 15ft/5m L of a pocketed wall.
1. 75ft/23m. Climb the short flake until a step L, then down, lead to a traverse across a slab into a deep corner crack. Go up this to a good ledge. Continue up a short awkward crack to a large stance.
2. 55ft/17m. Traverse R to a shallow chimney and climb it to a grassy ledge.
3. 45ft/14m. A difficult traverse R leads to a short chimney which is taken to a good ledge.
4. 70ft/21m. Ascend the chimney at the back of the ledge to the top of the pinnacle. Hand traverse into an easy corner crack which leads to a scree-covered ledge - an excellent pitch.
5. 80ft/24m. Move R up a sloing grassy ledge to a R-angled corner with a thin crack. Climb this strnuously to the top.

J.M.A. Thomson, H.O. Jones, K.J.P. Orton 1910

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS.

henry james 10/Oct Lead O/S

First lead multi-pitch. Awesome exposure, nice technical crack towards the end.

with Jess Rogers
Matt Harmon 03/Oct AltLd O/S

led P2+3 as one

Anna duckett 03/Oct AltLd O/S

Difficulty in first pitch route finding

with Matt H
Andrew Lester 16/Sep AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug AltLd O/S
David Staples 17/Aug AltLd O/S
chris cockbain 10/Aug Lead O/S

with bags on, continued to Snowdon and descended via Crib Goch

Tom Draude 10/Aug 2nd O/S
with Chris Cockbain
Jenny Hall 10/Aug 2nd O/S
with louis
guy757 06/Aug -
with Vic
darrenpp ?/Aug AltLd
with Naomi
Stanners 25/Jul Lead O/S

After bumping into another group about to set off on Main Wall we pressed on to this. Bit of a trek! Brilliant positions and moves for a VD! Once the hands had fully numbed it wasn't too unpleasant in the shade. A very good journey, but initially got a bit lost going down the wrong gully on the descent. Walk down to the car in the sun bathing in the mountain streams was equally as nice.

with Robbie Leishman
the.proud.man 11/Jul AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 & 4. With Andy and Angus. Got a bit lost in the fog at the top and had to bail from the decent via llanberis path.

Hidden 11/Jul AltLd
Gerallt Owain 23/Jun Lead O/S
with Gwydion Tomos
UncleMephisto 23/Jun AltLd O/S

Quality route on a stunning cliff. Worth every step of the walk in.

with Will Ceuppens
James Lowe 23/Jun AltLd O/S

Ran some of the pitches together and ended up skipping the traverse but the chimney pitch was brilliant. Got quite lost at the top and ended up on some very loose stuff. Don't stray too far right!

with Ali
Hinchrn 13/Jun AltLd O/S
with Tom Berks
PeteArcher 11/Jun AltLd
shaunhumphreys 07/Jun AltLd O/S

Set off at 5pm got really lost on the top pitch and had some outrageous rope drag! LOOONG day!

with Dawn
Dawn_K_B 07/Jun AltLd O/S

1,2,4. Part 2 of big day!

AndrewP 21/May AltLd

Excellent varied route, but the top (avoidable) corner pitch is tough - solid 4c for a couple of moves.

with Daniel Bryan
DanielBryan 21/May AltLd

As an extension of Main Wall. Only led the 3rd pitch.

Avinash Aujayeb ?/May -
Hidden 23/Apr AltLd
fulton333 17/Apr AltLd
with Joe Fennel
iwanap 12/Apr AltLd O/S
carl_123 08/Apr Lead O/S
Keenb 04/Apr Lead O/S
with Simon Oliver, Alec Carr
Hidden ??/2015 -
pankoman ??/2015 -
jonathandavey 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, Megan's first multipitch. Amazingly nice day for mid November. Some wet and muddy holds but generally clean.

Megan Crowe 15/Nov/14 2nd
67hours 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led latter part of P4 and then P5. The thin crack was a little un-necessary!

with Al Docherz, Clay
Clay C 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Al, George
luke glaister 21/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

A brilliant route. We lead it in 4 pitches. Did the first pitch and 3rd this time. High in the grade but so good. 3***s.

casey johns 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

we done in 4 pitches, I lead 2&4, all 4 pitches were great to second and lead what a great climb to finish the wkend.this is my fav severe to date

rushy11111918 20/Aug/14 AltLd
with Charlie Lindsey
Hidden 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Paul Baxter 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Led all but P2

Andrew will wilson 29/Jun/14 -
luke glaister 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

A great route. I lead all but the 4th pitch. I was off route at the start and did the layback crack vs to the right which was really good. The thin moves right on pitch 3 are excellent . but all the pitches have good climbing on them. The top pitch is fun to.... enjoyed as much as main wall before this. Walked to snowdon to finish off a great day.

greglad 29/Jun/14 Solo
D.botts87 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe
tomsimpson89 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
joeallen28 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed some sort of variation of this, started and finished in the right place but not sure about everything in between. Still, a great mountain day out - even if the descent down western gully almost turned into an epic!

Luxulyan 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Joel Hendry, Tom Murrell
lizard-16-07 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Did this following the description as 3 stars and most importantly a VDiff. I knew it felt harder than VDiff! Route finding difficult, only really felt like I was certain of where I was on the awesome chimney pitch (best part of the climb!) topped out onto Crib Goch and down to Pen-y-Pass.

with Katie McKay
K Mckay 24/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Excellent exposed but achievable climbing.

with Liz Smith
Bilbo 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Beautiful sunny day, whole crag to ourselves. MB lead P1 & P3, NB P2, P4 & P5. Rockfax Top 50 "One of the finest mountain routes in the UK, The Gambit Climb has it all. Acres of exposure, superb moves, great rock & a crux at the end." P1 traverse was the only pitch with a real sense of exposure & felt more like the crux than P5. Really enjoyable climbing throughout.

with Martin Bischoff
ChrisBrooke 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Cool route. Felt harder moves than Main Wall which we'd done on the way up.

Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
charlielow 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4. First pitch was really hard to locate, crap description in the rockfax. Really loose, probably 4a. 4th pitch was awesome, more like 4b and 5th pitch more like 4c! Definitely harder than severe, I would say HS or maybe VS. Descent also really hard to find, ended up having to ab down some of it! Wouldn't say it's a top 50, maybe 2*, not sure if worth the 2 hour walk in!

Ewan Russell 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Patrick Mcbride
Ella7 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,3 and 5. Good climb, harder than Severe, I give it HS. The start was shit and wet and very unclear from the Rockfax guide. Great mountain crag experience but not a top 50 route. LONG walk in.

ChrisB.19 14/Jun/14 2nd
with Ken L, Allan FW
JenRoberts 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Rhys
Sol Armer 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Easy HS, first pitch is 4a! Great climb, limited only by is length, if the pitches were longer/ there was more of them it would be 3*. Descent is very sketch, don't try and go down the gully behind!!

tomwright1509 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
JdotP 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

It's V.Diff. according to the CC, and who are we to argue! Tehehe

with Crazy Dave
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd
Prof. Outdoors 19/Apr/14 AltLd

Very cold, wind was biting. Only VD in my 2003 guide but knew it was harder.

with Wendy
BenLarby 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Burnett
oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 AltLd dog
with jen peanut
ActionSte ??/2014 -
piersnewton 11/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2 and 4 big boot climbing

with Adam Smith, Olly Roberts
ollyroberts 11/Dec/13 Lead O/S

All pitches, big boots.

with Piers Newton, Adam 'Buddy' Smith
leeoftroy ?/Nov/13 Lead O/S

very very very cold, fingers almost made me cry. Topped out on Snowdon, snow from approx 700m. Climbed all but final pitch in boots. Good day out in a very twisted way!

Roch 05/Oct/13 AltLd

Tried climbing in the rain in big boots thinking it was VDiff, retreated from first pitch and climbed parsons nose instead.

with Gordon Henderson
Hidden 28/Sep/13 -
shed_hed 27/Sep/13 Solo O/S
dswansonlow 27/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/13 AltLd
John Roe 21/Sep/13 AltLd

Led 1st & 3rd pitches

with Tom Hansford, Nathan Maxwell
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 25/Aug/13 Lead
with MagsB
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd dog
magsb 25/Aug/13 2nd
tatz45 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
chris sm 25/Aug/13 Lead
with laurel
Gareth T 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Haley
poeter210 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Skirted round a certain section that seemed a touch hard for 4a, partner got it first time though, argh!

druss 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

finished through the corner and very difficult for 4a. Partner and other climbers suggested it may be 5a!?

Kirill 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P4+P5.

with Stevo
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/13 AltLd

lead Pitch 1,2,3 (as one massive 55 metre pitch and the final pitches also strung together by Kirill), Part of a bigger enchainment taking Western Slabs, Slow Ledge Climb, Main Wall,Gambit Climb and Crib Coch. Started at 7:30 back down to the car 19:15. A very good day :)

tomboyle ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Alice P1+P2 together, logical to string these together. I lead P3+P4 - had to pitch as otherwise lots of rope drag. Alice had final corner pitch. Great route, fantastic position on the hill with alpine-esque rock, all big slings and extenders. Brilliant route and fun scramble back down the arete and gully.

Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Josiemc 04/Jul/13 2nd
Josiemc 04/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead
Louvet 26/May/13 2nd
with Tarquin
sheelba 19/May/13 AltLd

Nice climb although the corner at the top, while easily avoidable was very hard for a serve

JasonV 19/May/13 AltLd

lead P2 and 4

with Sam
jshields 20/Apr/13 AltLd

After the Direct Route and Slow Ledge, great day with good company.

with Andy Neath, Ed James
Danny Crump 17/Nov/12 Lead
thecurlyone 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out in glorious weather! Started up the wrong line but then realized the real start was further left. Should have known to follow the polish. I strung the first two pitches together, then Ruth did P3 and P4(best pitch!) with Jennifer leading the final tricky corner crack pitch. Finished by going up the ridge to Snowdon summit (along with the rest of the world) and had scones with cream and jam before descending to Llanberis. Awesome!

with Jennifer Roberts, Ruth Bevan
asmith37 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
andrzej kierzek 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1, P2, P3, P4. It started raining after P1. "Traverse on delicate holds" on wet rock in pouring rain was not a fun. Same for exit of P4. Did not do P5. Scrambled to the left to Parson's arete. Continued along Parson's arete, Crib y Ddysgl, summit of Snowdon, Pen-y-pass and down the road back to the car. Good 12.5 h day.

with Tara
gw3285 07/Jul/12 AltLd
alexander the meerkat 25/May/12 Lead dnf

Struggled to find the start - description a bit vague in the guide book so had to do Parsons Nose instead, disappointed in the latest guide.

Hidden 20/May/12 AltLd
Truan 05/May/12 2nd
Curly Rich 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great climb followed by Crib Goch and desent of the north ridge.

with gmc truan, GMC Stuart
Stewart Armstrong 05/May/12 AltLd O/S


with Truan Willis, Richard Spencer
pasbury ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 01/Oct/11 AltLd
colinthomson5 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st, 3rd and 5th pitch

with eddie purcy-hughes, John Hillman
miles01 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Glyn 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Brocken spectre at the top

with Amy
Coel Hellier 30/Jul/11 AltLd
with Duncan
jonleighton 25/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd
magik_bob ?/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Solo
Hidden ?/May/11 Solo
skittles 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

A couple of tricky moves on the 1st pitch, Excellent route, especially the 3rd pitch, finished by scrambling to the top and walked down to llanberis for some dinner at pete's eats

with Heather Williams
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
mikehenesy 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Climbed with young Bomber, who made a grand job of it in the wind and the clag and the slime. Occasional breaks in the cloud showed the rest of Wales to be in sunshine! Probably a great climb in the dry, must go back some time. Abbed off the top. Done as two pairs following behind Dean and Martin - very little crooning. Had been assured by the chaps that it's a V Diff, can't comment on the grade or the stars as it was a bit of a dank slimefest but the chimney with hand traverse was bonzer.

with Bomber
HJSmith ?/Sep/10 AltLd

Challenging in the cold wind but very good climb.

with Joe North
willoates 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S

much harder than hvd i thought

with lawrence
MontyH 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches.

with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Andy Clarke 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Good value, particularly the finish. Led Ps 1,3,4,5.

with Ralph
George Ormerod 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Clare D, Clare W
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
josh88 18/Jun/10 2nd
with ian witt, Colin Macalindin
Noodles 25/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1,P3 and P5. A great route in a fantastic setting, interesting rock and great weather. A real gem.

Jillybean 25/May/10 AltLd
with Martyn
Briwi 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with phil gibb
LRB 22/May/10 2nd
Hidden 16/May/10 AltLd
cameron_hall 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Iona Naismith
Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Ian Ackerley
alancash100 ??/2010 AltLd
alancash100 ??/2010 AltLd
CathS 13/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P2 and 4. Don't know whether it was just me being a bit crap, but there were a couple points on this route that felt harder than some of the VS's I've climbed this year. A darned good route though. Particularly enjoyed leading P4, with the exciting move from the top of the pinnacle!

lucasp 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3 and 5

with Cath Lmc
Hidden 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
cooper leek 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

lead all pitches. lovelly climb

with dawn
donkster 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with DaveNW
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd
timofy 25/Jul/09 AltLd

brilliant route. lead pitches 1,3 and 5. exciting final corner pitch

Hidden 24/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jun/09 AltLd
Adderbury Climber 23/May/09 2nd O/S
adam06 11/May/09 AltLd

good route. got lost on the last pitch somehow... climbed to the right of the corner and went straight up the steep headwall through a small overhang. probably VS4b/c nice gear, but a little pumpy, recommended. named it "The big steaming idiots variation" after abuse i got from my partners, but it is probably part of another route.

with Hilary Theaker and Sarah Lewington
hils theaker 11/May/09 AltLd

really good route, apart from adam somehow missing the corner on the final pitch! Led P1 +3

with Sarah + Adam
tash 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve
Hidden 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dmowens44 ??/2009 -
Hidden 29/Dec/08 AltLd dnf
rd20 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

RD P2, then off route - The Ring VS

with Patrick
sara n 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.

with CS
mark20 15/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

I led P2 (easy broken chimney) and P4 (the good chimney pitch). Good mountaineering route

tiga271 15/Aug/08 AltLd

i started

with mark20
robo84 27/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
climbingxcat ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Did the 4th crux pitch

with Brian and Mike
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Sienna78 ?/Jun/08 Lead

Pitches 2,4

Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
Ben Watts 03/May/08 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,3 and 5

with Roger Lord
Pilch 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Lead every pitch, a good route with some fun moves. Walked to top of Snowden afterwards then back over Grib Goch

with Graham and Ed
EdShep 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Pilch and Graham
Hidden ??/2008 -
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden 09/Dec/07 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Gman ?/Aug/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
jimsrankin 01/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

I lead pitches 1, 3 and 4

with Mel
Hidden 29/Oct/06 2nd
mark4344 14/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

top day out linked in with crib goch

with michel schonewille
tomB 07/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/06 AltLd
Kaiser999 ?/Sep/06 AltLd

Extended it into a full mountain day with a continuation along the main ridge of Crib Goch and down its north ridge back towards Nant Peris

with Jeff
Duncan Hardy 14/Aug/06 Lead
with Andrew Harrison
Chris Ellis 01/Jul/06 AltLd
with Hillary Lawrenson
thegoatstroker ?/Jul/06 -
with Trefor Hughes
Dave Wearing 01/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Julia Wilson, Mike Knight.
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd
caradoc 27/Apr/06 Solo

Some self belaying.

Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
maria85 18/Sep/05 AltLd
with Steve
gripped01 ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Mark Catt, Dave Tait
Nicos 31/Aug/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
ferdia 19/Jun/04 2nd
with Andrew Wielochowski
five ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with AJ
Simon Caldwell ??/2002 Lead O/S

Carmen led pitch 4, I led the rest. Finished up the arete then traversed towards Crib Goch and did Reade's Route

with Carmen
Hidden 25/Jul/01 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/May/98 AltLd
with Stuart Magill
Pete Nugent 05/May/96 AltLd

led p1&2

with Ian Makin
Ian Robertson 23/Jul/94 Lead
MoWalker3 05/Sep/91 AltLd
with Joe
Iain Thow 12/Aug/91 AltLd

Led 2,3&5. Thought 1 & 3 deserved 4a & top pitch has to be 4b. Led it in superb sunset after Lorraine, Western Slabs & Main Wall. One of my best climbing days ever.

with Rob Ivens
babymoac 01/Dec/90 2nd

Epic lead by Agus on a bleak snowy day

with Angus
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/88 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
michael burrows 30/Dec/87 AltLd O/S

started to rain halfway up

with ian nettleton
Hidden 31/Aug/86 AltLd
mikej 27/Jun/79 Lead
with Tony Waite
Nigel Bond 26/Jul/75 Lead
with Donald Workman
jcw 07/Aug/69 Solo
tapley 05/Apr/69 2nd
with Dave Hearnshaw
granitbahn ??/1969 AltLd
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High HS
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High S
Mid S
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High HVD
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
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